Vin Santo del Chianti with Fattoria Poggio Alloro

Vin Santo del Chianti is a traditional Italian dessert wine produced in the Chianti region of Tuscany, recognized with a Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) status in 1997.  It is made using the "passito" method, where white grapes—primarily Trebbiano and Malvasia—are hand-harvested and dried for several months to concentrate their sugars before being pressed and fermented.  The wine is aged for a minimum of three years in small wooden barrels, traditionally made of chestnut or oak, known as "caratelli", which range from 50 to 300 liters in size.

We first experienced a Vin Santo del Chianti during a visit to Fattoria Poggio Alloro, a farm winery overlooking San Gimignano. The farm specializes in Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Grappa, Chianti DOCG, and Vin Santo del Chianti.  The name Poggio Alloro means Bay Leaf Hill, and it refers to the bay laurel bushes that grow everywhere on their property. This is a destination providing spectacular views of San Gimignano and the surrounding rolling hills as well as organically growing a multitude of agricultural commodities from grapes; olives; fruits; vegetables; and grains: barley, oats, corn, sunflowers, durum, wheat, and farro to produce the delicious durum, semolina and farro pasta.

Their Vin Santo del Chianti is made in the traditional method described above using Trebbiano Toscano, Malvasia, and Colombana Nera grapes. DNA analysis confirms that Colombana Nera is a natural cross between Sciaccarello (Mammolo) and an unknown parent variety.  Despite its thick skin, it produces a light-colored wine - so used prevalently in blends. After fermentation, the wine is aged minimum five years in caratelli casks. The color is golden amber, with a toasted fruit aroma,  with a slightly sweet fig and apricot flavor. Serve with biscotti. 

Grape Spotlight: Serbian Tamjanika from Milosavljević Winery

It was fortuitous that our Christmas Eve dinner at Ambar included a bottle of the Milosavljevic Winery Tamjanika Vila Vina. Tamjanika is an autochthonous Serbian variety where the grape’s etymology translates to incense and in old Slavic, Frankincense.  The grape is thought to be a local clone of Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains -- the oldest member of the Muscat family and one of the oldest grape varieties in the world. The variety is named for its small berries and seeds (petits grains) which leads to a range of citrus, floral and spice aromas, with a full, dry palate. 

Tamjanika shares the intensely pronounced muscat aroma and flavor. On the nose, it is richly floral and fruity; in addition to jasmine, strawberries, peaches, and honey, it is sometimes accompanied by notes of citrus and tropical fruit. On the palate, it is refreshing with a long and pleasant finish.  And that is the case with this Tamjanika Vila Vina. It is straw yellow in color and exudes that favorably muscat aroma followed by a pleasant herbaceousness, stone fruit, and spicy palate. 

The grapes for this wine were grown in the village of Bucje, Serbia, on the right bank of the Zapadna Morava River, where vine cultivation dates back to Roman times. The Tamjanika vines were planted about 1200 feet above sea level and are farmed as sustainably as possible including the use of grass and beneficial flora between rows to support ecological balance.  

The Milosavljevic Winery is a family-owned winery that was founded in 1978 by Branisav Milosavljević as a brandy producer, then added wine to the portfolio in 1980.  This laid the foundation for the current winery which was re-incorporated in 2006 by Milomir Milosavljević as a family winery and introducing the Vila Vina brand.  Milomir had spent 35 years in Switzerland, "learning from the best and adopting modern methods of viticulture and viticulture that included the precision of German winemakers and the sophistication of French winemakers". Today the winery is run by a triumvirate of  Milomir, his son Dragan, and Milomir's grandson Branko.

Beer Centric: Bock and Doppelbock Beer & the Christmas Season

🎄 Bock Beer & the Christmas Season: A Brew Steeped in Catholic Tradition 🍺

Rich, malty, and warming, Bock beers have long been tied to the Catholic calendar. Originally brewed in the 14th‑century German town of Einbeck, Bocks or "ein Bock" became known as celebratory beers—stronger, darker lagers released for special occasions. Brewers relied on techniques levered from German monastic brewers

By the 19th century, breweries—especially those founded by German immigrants—were crafting seasonal Bocks for Christmas, Lent, Easter, and winter gatherings, making them some of the earliest “seasonal releases” in beer culture. As Christmas approached, a Bock became a small sign of the season’s shift: from the quiet penitence of early Advent to the joyful feasting of Christ’s Nativity. In many Catholic regions, sharing a strong winter beer was part of gathering with family, honoring tradition, and celebrating the Light entering the world.

Traditionally, Bock beer is a sweet, relatively strong lager with an alcohol by volume (ABV) ranging from 6.3% to 13% or more, depending on the variant, and a color ranging from light copper to brown.  It is characterized by a malty, toasty aroma and flavor, low to moderate bitterness (20–30 International Bitterness Units), and a smooth mouthfeel with low to moderate carbonation. 

🍺 What exactly is a Doppelbock?

In contrast, a Doppelbock is a stronger and richer lager that originated in Munich, Germany, and is considered a "double" version of the traditional Bock beer.   It is characterized by its deep, reddish-brown to dark brown color, intense malty sweetness, and a full-bodied profile with a noticeable but smooth alcoholic strength, typically ranging from 7% to 10% ABV, though some examples can exceed 12%.  The style is known for its toasted, bready malt character, with notes of caramel, toffee, and dark fruits like prune and raisin, while hop presence is minimal or absent.

Historically, it was brewed by monks of the Paulaner order, who referred to it as "Sankt-vater-bier" (Blessed Father beer), later shortened to "Salvator," a name now trademarked by Paulaner. The beer earned the nickname "liquid bread" due to its high caloric content and role as sustenance during fasting periods, particularly Lent. Modern Doppelbocks are well-attenuated, resulting in a less sweet profile than historical versions, with a clean fermentation character and low to medium carbonation.

Domestic examples of each style can be found with Louisiana's Parish Brewing Bock, Settle Down Easy Brewing Frühlhardy  and  Internationally, we enjoy the  Hofbräuhaus Delicator. 

The Essence of the Olive: The World of Olive Trees

 🌿 When we think of olive oil, we often picture sun-drenched groves, silvery leaves rustling in the wind, and ripe fruit ready for harvest. But behind every bottle lies a key factor that shapes flavor and identity — the olive variety, or cultivar. Much like grape varieties in wine, each olive tree expresses its own personality through aroma, texture, and taste, influenced by soil, climate, and the hands that tend it.

Across the Mediterranean and beyond, there are over 1,000 known olive cultivars, each adapted to its region’s terrain and traditions. Let’s explore some of the most influential varieties — the ones that define the world’s great olive oils and reveal the diversity of this ancient tree.

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Italy: Bold and Diverse

Italy boasts more olive cultivars than any other country, and each region offers a unique expression.

• Frantoio – The star of Tuscany. Frantoio oils are aromatic and complex, with notes of green herbs, artichoke, and a peppery finish. Often blended with Leccino for balance.
  
  

• Leccino – Milder and softer than Frantoio, producing round, buttery oils with hints of almond and apple. Common in central Italy.
  
  

• Coratina – The pride of Puglia, this variety yields intensely green, spicy, and bitter oils with exceptional shelf life — a favorite among chefs for its structure.
  
  

• Nocellara del Belice – From Sicily, known for dual-purpose use (table olives and oil). Fruity, balanced, and slightly nutty, it captures the island’s warmth in every drop.
  

Italian cultivars are often blended, much like wine cuvées, to achieve harmony between fruitiness, bitterness, and pungency.

Regenerative Farming at Burnt Hill Farm

We are continuing our focus on regenerative farming, this time through the lens of Drew Baker and Maryland's Burnt Hill Farm.  You can review the tenants of this framework at Regenerative Farming: Why the Fuss?.  The Baker family has always been interested in more sustainable farming and winemaking practices since they planted their first vines and opened Old Westminster Winery back in 2011.  Five years later, the Bakers partnered with geologist Ernest "Bubba" Beasley to search for the "perfect" hillside to plant a new vineyard. A year later they purchased an 117-acre site that Beasley determined ".. has the potential to grow extraordinary wines". 

This property contains steep slopes and rocky, well-drained soils (composed of phyllite and schist, layered with veins of quartzite). These soils are naturally low in potassium, a mineral that, in excess, can dull a wine’s acidity. Thus these shallow, skeletal soils had the potential for creating fresh, vibrant, and ageable wines. They then spent two years amending the soil by integrating cover crops and biodynamic practices to enhance the soil quality before planting old-world varieties alongside native and hybrid vines in 2019.  

Today, "Burnt Hill is a complex system of interacting forces — soil, plants, animals, fungi, and people — all working together in delicate balance".   In addition to the grapevines, they raise longwool sheep, woodland hogs, honey bees, log-grown mushrooms, heritage grains, and a small orchard — "always with reverence for the relationships between the land and all things who call it home".  The sheep and hogs are alternatives to mowing and assist in pest control and the bees help pollinate the cover crops - which in turn - are layers of armor protecting the soil from sunlight and maintains moisture.  And they repurpose as much as possible. When ash trees on the farm succumbed to the invasive emerald ash borer, they were immediately harvested and made into foeders used to ferment and age the wine. Minerals from the property were also collected and made into plates that are now used in the tasting room. 

Burnt Hill is comprised of an assortment of grapevines such as as Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Gamay, Syrah, Merlot, Tannat, Valvin Muscat, plus the unique hybrid Regent.  These wines made from these grapes are available through both the Estate wine series and collaboration wines with Old Westminster. And they are only available by participating in a Burnt Hill Farm Experience. And this is a fantastic experience. By reserving a tasting, participants are able to sample a plethora of wines paired with dishes prepared by Chef-partner Tae Strain. These dishes include ingredients from the Burnt Hill orchard, gardens, grains, mushrooms, and animals. A treat indeed. Here's a sampling of wines to expect.

Blanc de Blancs ($66)
This method champenoise sparkling wine is a collaboration between Old Westminster and Burnt Hill featuring chardonnay grapes grown at Cool Ridge Vineyard. Eventually the wine will be made from Burnt Hill north block estate Chardonnay. In the meanwhile, this is a fantastic expression of sparkling chardonnay - weighty, creamy, nutty, and with a cyclone of green apples. 

Earthsong 2021 ($88)
A 93%-7% Pinot Noir - Cabernet Franc blend where the Pinot was fermented in the ash wood foeders. Elegant and rustic old world charm. 

2021 Single Barrel Selection RE - 01 Barrel 5 ($105)
See Grape Spotlight: Maryland Regent from Burnt Hill Farm.

Terrafirma 2021 ($88)
Bordeaux-style blend of Merlot (54%) , Cabernet Sauvignon (27%), Cabernet Franc (14%) and Tannat (5%) also fermented in the ash wood foeders (except that the Cabernet Franc was fermented in concrete). This wine is no where near its full potential. Racy acidity and lively dark fruit with plenty of earthy and herbaceous notes. 

Gamay Barrel Selection 2021 ($132)
The grapes for this wine were harvested from the estate's north block and fermented in the same ash wood foeders. Loads of juicy minerality and general brightness. Unveiling the site's potential.  

Nectar Vin Blanc Doux ($47)
This wine combines the Old Westminster Winery estate Chardonnay with honey made from the Burnt Hill bee collective.  An extremely approachable wine - think honey and pears. 

Rum Across the Sunshine State

A Thanksgiving trip to the Tampa area and the return home allowed me to visit six distilleries which focus on rum and sourcing local molasses, crystals, or cane juice. 

Nestled in the heart of Dunedin’s vibrant "beer-muda triangle", Cotherman Distilling Co. has carved out a niche by producing hand-crafted spirits with a focus on quality and local ingredients. Their signature offerings include the 727 Vodka, a unique single-malt vodka distilled from 100% malted barley, and the Half-Mine Gin. They also produce a range of unique whiskies using different beer and rye mashes. But rum was our focus and their One Eyed Jack is supreme. This superior rum is aged in a chardonnay barrel that were used by neighboring Cueni Brewing Co. to rest a Belgium Tripel. Cotherman then obtained this barrel and aged their Dark Rum in the barrel for five years. Excellent. They also offer several other rums aged in various second use or different barrel sizes. For value, go for the Crockett's Reserve. 

Located in historic Ybor City, Gasparilla Distillery & Cocktail Bar is celebrated as Tampa’s first rum distillery, blending local heritage with a playful nod to the legendary pirate José Gaspar. Since opening in 2018, the distillery has produced a wide range of small-batch spirits, including Gasparilla Silver Rum, Spiced Rum, Coconut Rum, and seasonal flavors like Pumpkin or Apple Spiced Rum -- and the eye-opening Banana Bread Rum. This as well as their Key Lime Pie Rum were our favorites.  Not as sippers, but as ingredients to cocktails in which the creative bartenders described in detail during our visit. The rums are created by fermenting top-grade molasses from Okeelanta Sugar Mills in South Florida over seven days. The juice is then distilled using a 1,000 gallon copper pot still with rectifying columns. 

Founded by Drum Circle Distilling, Siesta Key Rum also sources the finest Florida molasses and only real ingredients like ground spices, honey, coffee, and coconut to produce their lineup of usually eight rums. This portfolio includes Toasted Coconut Rum, Coffee Rum, Spiced Rum, various aged rums, as well as beer barrel series -- all distilled using copper pot stills. Tastings are free with cocktails available at the tropical-inspired “Infinity Room” tiki bar.  The aged rums are worth exploring. The Siesta Key Distiller's Reserve Aged Spiced Rum is crafted using a solara system and is fantastic. Their Siesta Key Maple Syrup Barrel Aged Spiced Rum was aged in barrels that started as bourbon barrels, then were used to age maple syrup. After that, the maple soaked barrels make their way to the distillery and filled with the Siesta Key Spiced Rum. The batches are blends of barrels that have aged up to 7 years. 

Opened in 2019, Loaded Cannon Distillery is Bradenton’s first and only liquor distillery, proudly producing spirits “grain and cane to glass”.  The corn, molasses, rye, sugar, rice, and lemons are sourced directly in the Sunshine state. Their lineup includes bourbon, rum, vodka, gin, and specialty flavored spirits such as the popular Jalapeño Vodka, Limoncello, and the Pyracy Rum, crafted with dark sugar and molasses. We loved the Port Barrel Finished Rum and Maple Pecan Rum, but were more attracted to other offerings. Starting with the four grain Straight Bourbon Whiskey -- complex and easy sipping. Grab a Neat glass for this one. Their fabulous Limoncello is made with the lemons hanging in little cheesecloth hammocks, suspended above the high proof spirit, rather than peeling the lemons and immersing said peels in the spirit. This old Sicilian technique provides more zesty flavors. And we now know why the Jalapeño Vodka is very popular. Bloody Mary material. 

Driving through tall green sugar cane stalks swaying in a gentle breeze, you find a hidden distillery, a one of kind operation.  Sugar Sand Distillery is the country's only estate-grown sugar cane farm distillery where the sugar cane is grown, processed, distilled, and sold at the same location. In this case, Lake Placid in south central Florida.  Founder Don Davies grows four acres of cane on a former 10 acre citrus grove. The cane stalks are fed by a hydroponic system that delivers water and nutrients directly to the base of each plant; a by-product of Don’s decades of experience in the fertilizer industry.  The distillery opened in April 2018 and offers numerous spirits based on proprietary cane juice and corn mash recipes. These include small-batch rum, whiskey, vodka, limoncello and moonshine.  See A Visit to Sugar Sand Distillery - America's Only Estate-grown Sugar Cane Farm Distillery for a fuller picture of their operation and spirits. 

St. Augustine Distillery is located in the America's first city and in the historic FP&L Ice Plant (the first commercial enterprise to produce block ice in Florida over 100 years ago). The distillery is a business collaborative of 28 local entrepreneurs who utilize local sugar cane, wheat, corn, and citrus to produce whiskey, rum, vodka, and gin. They provide one of the most insightful free walking tours of a distillery. Each station includes a free cocktail sample and the museum provides a history of block ice production as well as a legality neutral history of distilling in The Sunshine State.  Their Pot Distilled Rum is produced from Grade A US Fancy sugarcane syrup and molasses and aged in used St. Augustine bourbon barrels. One of very few rums that are aged in barrels that previously held bourbon from the same distillery. The spirit is straw-colored with a surprising coconut and very light baking spices profile. 

A Visit to Sugar Sand Distillery - America's Only Estate-grown Sugar Cane Farm Distillery

Driving through tall green sugar cane stalks swaying in a gentle breeze, you find a hidden distillery, a one of kind operation.  Sugar Sand Distillery is the country's only estate-grown sugar cane farm distillery where the sugar cane is grown, processed, distilled, and sold at the same location. In this case, Lake Placid in south central Florida.  Founder Don Davies grows four acres of cane on a former 10 acre citrus grove. The cane stalks are fed by a hydroponic system that delivers water and nutrients directly to the base of each plant; a by-product of Don’s decades of experience in the fertilizer industry.  The distillery opened in April 2018 and offers numerous spirits based on proprietary cane juice and corn mash recipes. These include small-batch rum, whiskey, vodka, limoncello and moonshine.  

Their rum is extremely rare for a U.S. made rum as it is made from sugar cane juice in the French Rhum Agricole method - and not molasses, cane syrup, or sugar crystals.  And if you are interested in regenerative farming you have to respect a micro distillery that grows and processes its produce onsite. 

The Rhum Agricole process begins with harvesting the sugarcane and crushing it quickly to prevent oxidation and spoilage. Traditionally the cane is crushed using a roller mill but Sugar Sand uses a special device that peels the cane before crushing that leads to a cleaner juice. This juice or "vesou," is filtered and quickly prepared for fermentation.  A common anecdote explains that sugar cane and its juice has a "shelf life of soft serve ice cream". At Sugar Sand, this fermentation takes place in open, stainless steel tanks and typically lasts 24 to 72 hours.  The fermented juice, or "vin," is then distilled using a wood-encased copper pot still.

During my visit I sampled a healthy range of their offerings. These are available to purchase at their tasting room or at The 301 brewstillery and eatery located in nearby Sebring. 

Lake Placid Rum (White Rum): Taste the true spirit of rum. Expect sweet grassy and herbaceous aromas with textured core and a slightly smoky finish.  

Lake Placid Rum (Aged Rum): This is the White Rum aged four to five years in new American oak barrels freshly sourced from Kentucky. This oak treatment mellows the and rounds out the spirit providing a little more smoke and some caramel. But no baking spices - still spirit driven and not oak driven,  

Lake Placid Spiced Rum: This spirit is made starting with their White Rum augmented with spices and caramel colorings. It's slightly sweeter than the White Rum with a kaleidoscope of spices.

12 Hour Shine (White Shine): This is a combination corn and cane moonshine that is slightly sweeter than the White Rum. Unbelievably easy to drink with a sweet texture and easy finish.  

12 Hour Shine (Aged, Midnight Shine): Like the Aged Rum, this spirit takes the White Shine and is aged in new American oak barrels. Here you will get slight baking spices, more body and a rounded finish. Excellent. 

Crane Vodka (Lemon): This is a limoncello-like vodka with distinct lemon flavors and an oily texture. will love our lemon-flavored Crane Vodka.  Made from infusing the skins of locally grown lemons.

Hammock Gin: This is a juniper thin gin using six botanicals and sipping rather easily. 

Grape Spotlight: Romania DOC Lechinţa, Valea Ascunsă Fetească Neagră

Courtesy of Premium
Wines of Romania 

Lechinţa DOC is a small appellation in Transylvania comprised of several villages located between the Someșul Mare and Mureș rivers at the foothills of the Carpathian Mountains. Viticulture has been a feature of the area for years but like everywhere else in Romania the wine scene has seen decades of stagnation. Only recently has viticulture returned to Transylvania beginning to rebuild its reputation and Lechinţa is an emerging appellation. 

The geography of Transylvania is favorable to grape-growing as it spans the 47th parallel, very similar to southern Alsace and northern Burgundy. It has a temperate-continental climate providing hot, dry summers; warm autumns; and cold, harsh winters -- with regular snowfalls.   The Lechinţa DOC is dominated by brown and clay-iluvial soils, rich in calcium and iron. Vineyards are typically planted at 300-500 meters (1,000-1,600 feet) high. White wine grapes such as the indigenous Fetească Albă and Fetească Regală dominate but there are significant plantings of Fetească Neagra.

Fetească Neagra is a dark-skinned red wine grape variety native to the Republic of Moldova and Romania, whose name means "black maiden". It is an attractive grape to winegrowers because it is resistant to both cold temperatures and drought conditions. The grape ripens late and has thick skins, leading to wines with an excellent concentration of anthocyanins which provide more pigment to the wines. Fetească Neagra wines are typically spicy, with smoky fruit characters and good tannin structure.

Valea Ascunsă (Hidden Valley Winery) is a new winery located in Teaca that farms at least 20 hectares in the Lechinţa DOC.  From these vines they produce the Roșu de Teaca (Red from Teaca), a wine my family brought home this summer after visiting Romania.  The wine is medium bodied with jammy red fruit, slightly spicy, and subtle chocolate. No smokiness, but plenty of acidity.