Showing posts with label Burnt Hill Farm. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Burnt Hill Farm. Show all posts

Thursday, May 7, 2026

The April Freeze That Rewrote the 2026 Vintage: Virginia and Maryland’s Grape Losses

The Mid‑Atlantic wine industry is no stranger to weather drama, but the April 21st 2026 freeze and radiational frost carved its own chapter into regional history.  After an unseasonably warm March pushed vines into early budbreak, a sudden plunge into the low 20s°F delivered a blow that many growers describe as the most severe in decades. This was a hard freeze - not simply frost - and even the most orchestrated mitigation efforts had no affect. Other wineries experienced radiational frost where the heavier cold air flowed to the lower lying vineyard plots, pushing up the warmer air. What followed was not just a crop loss -- it was a structural shock to both Maryland and Virginia, whose wine economies have matured into nationally recognized industries.

Frost mitigation in vineyards and orchards centers on one goal: keeping developing buds and blossoms above the critical temperature at which tissues are damaged. Growers typically combine site selection, canopy management, and active frost‑control tools to reduce risk. Cold air drainage is foundational -- orchards and vineyards are often planted on slopes or elevated benches so dense, freezing air can flow away rather than pool around vines or trees. Within the block, growers maintain open alleyways and avoid windbreaks that trap cold air. These passive strategies don’t eliminate frost risk, but they significantly reduce the frequency and severity of damaging events.

When temperatures drop toward freezing, growers turn to active interventions. Wind machines or helicopters -- for businesses with deeper pockets -- mix warmer air from the inversion layer with colder surface air, often raising temperatures by 2–4°F across several acres. Potassium-based sprays add a useful physiological buffer to the broader frost‑mitigation toolkit used in vineyards and orchards. When applied ahead of a cold event, potassium strengthens cell membranes, improves osmotic balance, and supports carbohydrate movement -- factors that help buds tolerate slightly lower temperatures before injury occurs. Overhead irrigation is another widely used method: as water freezes around buds, it releases latent heat, keeping tissues at 32°F even when ambient temperatures fall lower. Some regions rely on heaters or strategically placed burn barrels or wood piles to raise temperatures. 

Yet, on April 21st, when the freeze arrived, most vineyards were past the point where wind machines, fires, or helicopter downdrafts could meaningfully help. Growers across the region described the same morning scene: blackened shoots, collapsed leaves, and the unmistakable smell of frost‑burned vegetation. In Maryland, the damage spread from the western shore of the Chesapeake to the Blue Ridge Mountains, with the most severe cases found in the Catoctin Valley along the Route 15 corridor. Many wineries reported 90-100% loss of both primary and secondary buds.  For instance, Black Ankle Vineyards - a very respected producer - lost their entire 2026 crop.

In Virginia, the damage was widespread, most notably, from the Loudoun Valley, the Shenandoah Valley, and throughout the Monticello AVA. In that historic American Viticultural Area, wineries also reported 90-100% loss of both primary and secondary buds.   Apple and pear orchards in the Shenandoah Valley were particularly hit hard because an earlier April frost had damaged many primary buds and the April 21st event killed off the secondary shoots. 

Secondary buds sit beside the primary bud within the compound bud. When the primary bud is damaged, the secondary bud typically survives and can push a new shoot in spring. This replacement shoot is vital. First, it restores canopy growth, allowing the vine to photosynthesize and rebuild carbohydrate reserves. Second, it often produces fruit, though usually fewer clusters than a primary bud would have. In short, they act as the vine’s built‑in backup system, ensuring both fruiting potential and the maintenance of vegetative growth needed for long‑term vine health.

In theory, vines planted on higher plots are safer from the radiational frost since the heavier cold air flows to the lower areas.  And, in theory, early budding grape varieties like Pinot Gris would be more susceptible to frost damage.  And Virginia's Three Fox Vineyards lost most of these plantings. In Maryland, Catoctin Breeze Vineyard owner Adam Fizyta reported they lost 100% of their Albariño - an early to mid budding variety.  And in an informative blog post, the The Vineyards at Dodon detailed that in their region just west of the Chesapeake Bay, "Only the vineyards along the Chesapeake and at 6-800 feet above a valley floor survived unscathed..."

However, these expectations were not uniformly felt. Melissa Aellen, winemaker at Maryland's Linganore Winecellarsinformed us that a plot of Petit Verdot (which traditionally buds early) that was planted at a higher elevation survived mostly intact and will account for some of the 10% of estate vines that survived. Similarly, but in contrast, Keith Morris, the General Manager at Big Cork Vineyards reported that about 80% of their Petit Verdot survived, but these vines were planted at the winery's lowest plots. 

Another example showing the unpredictability of the damage occurred in Lindon, Virginia -- located just east of Front Royal. Over several Facebook posts, Jim Law of Linden Vineyards reported that for the first time the famous Hardscrabble Vineyard was hit by frost with a possible 20–30% crop loss, unusually high for a vineyard known for its frost resilience. However just across Route 66 to the North, Capstone Vineyards, Crimson Lane Vineyards, and Fox Meadow Winery - a trio of vineyards surrounding St. Dominic's Monastery - fared with only minimal damage.  Yet, on the western edge of Front Royal, Reitano Vineyards lost their entire 2026 crop.

Courtesy of the Virginia Farm Bureau
In those Facebook posts, Jim Law also summarized what growers in the Mid-Atlantic are experiencing. "Finally as to the lower parcels that were completely frosted, we are just hoping they can be back in production for 2027. These poor vines have already experienced two years of sap sucking Spotted Lanternflies, two drought years, and a severe winter. Initial growth is generated by stored carbohydrates from the previous growing season. This spring those frosted shoots had already used up a lot of their reserves, so we worry about how much more is now available."

The Maryland Department of Agriculture called the freeze "one of the most significant crop losses in recent memory." The Virginia Wineries Association characterized the event as one of the most significant frost episodes in 15–20 years. But, economically, what does it mean? Particularly since wineries in Virginia and particularly in Maryland were already working off a 40-50% reduction in yields from 2025 because of several weather and pest events. 

In a lengthy blog post titled 2026, the Lost Vintage, Drew Baker of Burnt Hill Farm and Old Westminster Winery states that both wineries suffered a 100% loss in primary buds equating to a loss of 100 tons of fruit. On average, one ton of grapes yields about sixty cases of finished wine, or 720 bottles; thus 100 tons of lost fruit translates to roughly 72,000 bottles of wine never actualized. Drew also reminds us that, "The fruit may be gone, but the expenses are not. Payroll remains. Equipment costs remain. Repairs remain. Farming inputs remain. We still have a full time team farming these vines. We still have to mow, tuck shoots, manage canopy, monitor disease pressure, train trunks, control weeds, maintain trellis, and make careful decisions block by block."

In addition, the uneven ripening of any remaining primary and secondary shoots will add more to labor costs; this event created even more vineyard maintenance.  As Jim Law states, "With strategic and meticulous thinning some will have a full crop and others a partial crop. However there could be a lack of uniformity. Vines should have even separation between shoots and clusters so each receives the same amount of sun and air flow within the canopy. But in the 'partially frosted' vines we will have clumps of fruitful shoots, crowding some areas and at the same time gaps along the trellis where nothing is growing. Eventually new shoots will emerge with clusters that will be weeks behind. This would lead to uneven ripening and poor wine quality (what we refer to as an 'underripe/overripe' profile). We need to remove the clusters by hand before color change in August while we can still see a distinct difference. By harvest time they would all look the same, but taste very different." And this could delay harvest waiting for these clusters to ripen. Keith Morris conjectured that he wouldn't be surprised to see harvest last into mid-late November for many growers. 

What are producers doing next? Most Maryland farm wineries operate under a Class 4 Limited Winery license where they must either have planted 20 acres of estate vines or "at least 51 percent of the ingredients used in the annual production of the license holder’s wine are Maryland-grown agricultural products".  According to a spokesperson for the Maryland Department of Agriculture, the state has not yet issued a uniform exemption to this regulation, but impacted wineries can can apply for individual exemptions.  The situation is very similar in the Commonwealth. The Virginia ABC requires "Farm Wineries" to grow or lease a specified percentage of the fruit used in the production of their wines -- usually 51%. Wineries can apply for a Fruit Loss Exemption Waiver with the Virginia Department of Agriculture and purchase outside fruit.

Wineries are scrambling to source fruit from other regions. Big Cork Vineyards was able to sign contracts with several Maryland growers on the Eastern Shore that were not overly impacted by the April 21st event.  Several wineries mentioned that they are pivoting to New York - specifically the Niagara Escarpment and Finger Lakes. The Texas Hill Country is another option wineries are exploring, particularly for those wanting to replace lost Tempranillo, Tannat, Viognier, and Syrah.  Washington state and Lodi are other available options. 

The event has also showcases the collaborative nature of the industry. Yes, in one sense these wineries are competitors, but they also see each other as family and will be assisting each other to survive. For instance, expect wineries to band together when sourcing outside fruit in order to generate economies of scale. They will then contract this fruit or juice to smaller wineries at the discounted price - a price small wineries would never be able to receive on their own.  

What should consumers expect?  Smaller 2026 releases. Lots of library wines. Expect wineries to present more vertical tastings. Expect wines labelled American and not estate or AVA specific. But mostly, expect a plunge in the supply of local wine. Even before this event, Big Cork Vineyards had much less red wine in barrel due to the smaller 2025 yields. The same is probably true for other Maryland and Virginia wineries.  Consumers can help these wineries remain afloat by visiting or targeting local wines. We didn't list all the wineries that suffered damage, but we recommend treating each as if they lost everything. Visit WineCompass.com to plan a trip to wine county. 

Monday, December 15, 2025

Regenerative Farming at Burnt Hill Farm

We are continuing our focus on regenerative farming, this time through the lens of Drew Baker and Maryland's Burnt Hill Farm.  You can review the tenants of this framework at Regenerative Farming: Why the Fuss?.  The Baker family has always been interested in more sustainable farming and winemaking practices since they planted their first vines and opened Old Westminster Winery back in 2011.  Five years later, the Bakers partnered with geologist Ernest "Bubba" Beasley to search for the "perfect" hillside to plant a new vineyard. A year later they purchased an 117-acre site that Beasley determined ".. has the potential to grow extraordinary wines". 

This property contains steep slopes and rocky, well-drained soils (composed of phyllite and schist, layered with veins of quartzite). These soils are naturally low in potassium, a mineral that, in excess, can dull a wine’s acidity. Thus these shallow, skeletal soils had the potential for creating fresh, vibrant, and ageable wines. They then spent two years amending the soil by integrating cover crops and biodynamic practices to enhance the soil quality before planting old-world varieties alongside native and hybrid vines in 2019.  

Today, "Burnt Hill is a complex system of interacting forces — soil, plants, animals, fungi, and people — all working together in delicate balance".   In addition to the grapevines, they raise longwool sheep, woodland hogs, honey bees, log-grown mushrooms, heritage grains, and a small orchard — "always with reverence for the relationships between the land and all things who call it home".  The sheep and hogs are alternatives to mowing and assist in pest control and the bees help pollinate the cover crops - which in turn - are layers of armor protecting the soil from sunlight and maintains moisture.  And they repurpose as much as possible. When ash trees on the farm succumbed to the invasive emerald ash borer, they were immediately harvested and made into foeders used to ferment and age the wine. Minerals from the property were also collected and made into plates that are now used in the tasting room. 

Burnt Hill is comprised of an assortment of grapevines such as as Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Gamay, Syrah, Merlot, Tannat, Valvin Muscat, plus the unique hybrid Regent.  These wines made from these grapes are available through both the Estate wine series and collaboration wines with Old Westminster. And they are only available by participating in a Burnt Hill Farm Experience. And this is a fantastic experience. By reserving a tasting, participants are able to sample a plethora of wines paired with dishes prepared by Chef-partner Tae Strain. These dishes include ingredients from the Burnt Hill orchard, gardens, grains, mushrooms, and animals. A treat indeed. Here's a sampling of wines to expect.

Blanc de Blancs ($66)
This method champenoise sparkling wine is a collaboration between Old Westminster and Burnt Hill featuring chardonnay grapes grown at Cool Ridge Vineyard. Eventually the wine will be made from Burnt Hill north block estate Chardonnay. In the meanwhile, this is a fantastic expression of sparkling chardonnay - weighty, creamy, nutty, and with a cyclone of green apples. 

Earthsong 2021 ($88)
A 93%-7% Pinot Noir - Cabernet Franc blend where the Pinot was fermented in the ash wood foeders. Elegant and rustic old world charm. 

2021 Single Barrel Selection RE - 01 Barrel 5 ($105)
See Grape Spotlight: Maryland Regent from Burnt Hill Farm.

Terrafirma 2021 ($88)
Bordeaux-style blend of Merlot (54%) , Cabernet Sauvignon (27%), Cabernet Franc (14%) and Tannat (5%) also fermented in the ash wood foeders (except that the Cabernet Franc was fermented in concrete). This wine is no where near its full potential. Racy acidity and lively dark fruit with plenty of earthy and herbaceous notes. 

Gamay Barrel Selection 2021 ($132)
The grapes for this wine were harvested from the estate's north block and fermented in the same ash wood foeders. Loads of juicy minerality and general brightness. Unveiling the site's potential.  

Nectar Vin Blanc Doux ($47)
This wine combines the Old Westminster Winery estate Chardonnay with honey made from the Burnt Hill bee collective.  An extremely approachable wine - think honey and pears. 

Monday, November 24, 2025

Grape Spotlight: Maryland Regent from Burnt Hill Farm

The Regent Diamond is a 140.64-carat (28.128 g) diamond, classified as D color with a slight bluish tinge, cut into a cushion brilliant shape and internally flawless, making it one of the most historically significant and valuable diamonds in the world.  Discovered in India and cut in London, the diamond has adorned numerous French royal regalia - plus Napoleon - throughout history. Today it is hopefully secure at the Louvre and estimated to be worth US$60,000,000.  

With this background in mind, grape breeders at the Geilweilerhof Institute for Grape Breeding in Germany named a new hybrid after the diamond - the Regent grape. Big expectations. The grape was bred in 1967 by Professor Gerhardt Alleweldt with the intent to create a high-quality grape that could survive in cold climates.  He eventually crossed Diana (Silvaner × Müller-Thurgau) and Chambourcin - thus blending European vitus vinifera and French-hybrid genetics. After years of experimental plantings, the grape was officially released in 1996.

In general, Regent produces solid yields and is highly resistant to mildew diseases; the variety also has thick dark skins and an abundance of tannins. Chambourcin provides the resistance component whereas the Diana adds vinifera class. Unusually, Regent's flesh is stained red – a condition known as teinturier, and another indication that it is genetically geared toward producing powerful reds.

Regent has become a symbol of sustainable viticulture, reducing reliance on chemical sprays thanks to its natural resistance. This is what attracted Drew Baker, co-founder of Burnt Hill Farm, to organically farm grape on the their estate.  This fits into the regenerative farming philosophy espoused by Baker which we will highlight in more detail in a future post. In the meanwhile take a stroll through Regenerative Farming: Why the Fuss? which includes a video of Burnt Hill Farm. In general, they treat the farm as its own ecosystem and raise longwool sheep, woodland hogs, honey bees, log-grown mushrooms, heritage grains, and a small orchard. They even harvested dying ash trees to create foeders to ferment and age their wine.

The 2021 Single Barrel Selection RE - 01 Barrel 5 spent three years in one of these foeders before being bottled and released as a single barrel selection. Drew is very enthusiastic about this release and the future of Regent at Burnt Hill Farm.  This medium-full bodied wine reminded me of a partnership between Petite Sirah and Chambourcin.  It appeared to have dark red fruit, more black pepper than spice, and more tannic structure than a typical Chambourcin. Plus an abundant supply of aromatics. Looks very promising. 

Wednesday, November 19, 2025

Regenerative Farming: Why the Fuss?

Last year we posted a few articles on Regenerative Farming in terms of the core tenets being implemented at Grgich Hills Estate, Ridge Vineyards, and Domaine Bousquet.  Why the fuss over regenerative farming practices? Let's first look at the negative consequences of conventional farming practices. 

  • Soil degradation due to wind and water erosion, soil compaction, loss of organic matter, reduced water-holding capacity, and salinization in irrigated areas, which collectively diminish soil productivity.
  • The extensive use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides contributes to water pollution, contaminating groundwater and surface waters with nitrates, phosphorus, and other chemicals, leading to eutrophication and the creation of "dead zones" in aquatic ecosystems.
  • Monoculture practices and heavy pesticide use reduce biodiversity by harming pollinators and other beneficial insects.
  • The overuse of pesticides has also led to the development of resistant pests and pathogens, complicating pest management.
  • These practices also pose health risks to farm workers and consumers due to exposure to pesticide residues and the sub-therapeutic use of antibiotics in animal production.


Now, let's examine the positive benefits of regenerative farming practices.

  • No till agriculture reduces erosion and keeps valuable nutrients and microbes in the soil.
  • Bio-diversity in the vineyard through at least four plant groups leads to sharing of nutrients.
  • Planting cover crops that become layers of armor by protecting the soil from sunlight and maintains moisture.
  • Let animals manage most vineyard activities such as mowing and pest control. 
  • Institute labor practices that ensure sufficient wages and worker safety that leads to greater retention and thus increased productivity.

Because of the negative consequences of conventional farming and the positive benefits from regenerative practices, farms are transitioning to various regenerative certifications. These include:
  • USDA Certified Organic: While not strictly regenerative, organic farming avoids synthetic pesticides and fertilizers, laying a foundation for further regenerative practices.
  • Demeter Biodynamic: This certification focuses on a holistic approach to agriculture, emphasizing soil health and biodiversity.
  • Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC): This emerging standard verifies adherence to principles focused on soil health, animal welfare, and social fairness.
Over the next year we will be posting about Regenerative Farming practices implemented at various vineyards and farms such as here at Maryland's Burnt Hill Farm. As you can see in the video below the farm practices bio-diversity; planting cover crops; and allow animals, in this case sheep, to manage many vineyard activities.  

Are there pitfalls and criticism of regenerative agriculture? Absolutely.  There is a solid argument that the global food system cannot transition entirely to regenerative methods without causing deforestation and habitat destruction, as there is insufficient land available for farming. The shift to regenerative practices also places significant demands on farmers, particularly smaller ones, who may lack the resources or support to adopt these new tenets.  Fair enough, but we should move away from synthetic fertilizers and pesticides that are extremely damaging. Your thoughts?



Monday, June 17, 2019

Old Westminster Winery, Burnt Hill Farm, & The Summer Solstice Festival

“We’re going to challenge current beliefs with unique and transparent wines – wines that offer balance, nuance, and character. We’re going to farm thoughtfully, using biodiverse cover crops, biodynamic principles and incorporating animals. And then, in the winery, we’re going to craft wines with a light hand, ferment with indigenous yeast, and bottle it all without fining or filtration. These wines will be made without makeup – a pure reflection of the time and place where they’re grown and the people who guided the process." Drew Baker.

Photo Courtesy of
Old Westminster Winery
This is the guiding principle behind the next phase of Maryland's Old Westminster Winery as this accomplished and innovative winery attempts to challenge contemporary winemaking through The Burnt Hill Project. The Baker family has been very successful in their previous endeavors, first by immediately impressing consumers and critics after an initial launch of Old Westminster Winery, being the first to can and successfully market Maryland wine, and creating a custom crush facility for other aspiring winemakers.  So there's little reason to conclude this next phase will not be as successful.

Burnt Hill Farm is located in northwestern Montgomery County and its name comes from the late 1800s, when the owners "despaired of growing crops in the nutrient-poor soils and made money by burning trees and brush to make charcoal, potash, and lye". The farm has the ideal gradient and clay-limestone soils congruent for Gamay and Pinot Noir, grapes normally not planted in the Free State. But why stop there. They are also planting "90 experimental varieties bred by Cliff Ambers, an iconoclastic viticulturist who pollinates native grape vines with pollen from European vinifera varieties” Dave McIntyre Washington Post.

The Bakers will continue the viticulture philosophy from their Home Vineyard in Westminster, all work done by hand, sustainable farming, minimalist winemaking, and fermenting with native yeast. They have also incorporated bio-dynamic vineyard practices at Burnt Hill Farm  -- starting two years before planting their first vines - in order to create a living organism. Biodynamic farms generate their own fertility through composting, integrating animals, and cover cropping. This effort at Burnt Hill includes rotating cover crops like wheat and daikon radish, planting manure filled bull horns that will eventually fertilize the vineyard, and introducing sheep next year.
"We choose to think of our farm as a living, breathing organism. Like a human body with a system of organs, our farm is a complex system of interacting substances and processes...> biodynamics." Drew Baker
Consumers can discover Old Westminster's minimalist approach to winemaking as well as taste a preview of what should come from Burnt Hill at their Summer Solstice Festival on June 22, 2019. Under a circus tent at Burnt Hill Farm, low-intervention winemakers from across the globe will pour 100+ unique wines. The lineup includes Broc Cellars, Hiyu Wine Farm, Zafa Wines, Floral Terranes, Margins Wine, Methode Sauvage, Iapetus Wine, Wild Arc Farm, Inconnu Wine, Johan Vineyards, The Scholium Project, Fable Farm, Purity Wine, En Cavale, Fausse Piste, Old Westminster, Lightwell Survey, Liten Buffel, Maitre de Chai, Old World Winery, Les Lunes, Ruth Lewandowski, Brooks, Art+Science, Native Selections, Zev Rovine, Williams Corner, Plant Wines, MFW, Domestique, Wines of Georgia, Revel Wine, and more...

And to learn more about the festival and Old Westminster Winery tune to #Winestudio on Twitter Tuesdays in June at 9PM E.T. Cheers and hope to see you at the Summer Solstice.