Shenandoah Valley - Appalachian Highlands Road Trip Stop 7: Big Fish Cider Co.

Recently I spent a couple days traveling the backroads of the Shenandoah Valley into the Appalachian Highlands visiting as many craft beverage establishments as possible. This endeavor included four wineries in the Shenandoah Valley, two breweries in the Appalachian Highlands, and a couple cider houses within both regions. Here's the story. 

Monterey was our final destination as we wanted to visit the geographically isolated Big Fish Cider Co. The drive into Highland County crossed through high elevations, narrow valleys, and mostly livestock farms. The county’s geography differs from the rest of western Virginia, with farms situated along ridgelines and hollows that support these livestock as well as hay production and small orchards. Monterey developed as a service center for these agricultural communities and later became known for its maple‑syrup industry and outdoor tourism. 

Big Fish Cider Co. operates in downtown Monterey and was founded by Kirk Billingsley, who began producing cider from locally sourced apples and expanded the operation into a commercial cidery as demand grew.  The apples used in production come from Highland County and nearby mountain orchards, where cooler nights and slower ripening contribute to higher acidity and firmer structure. 

One of these apples is the Harrison - an historically significant American cider apple documented in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.  The apple nearly disappeared in the twentieth century before being rediscovered and reintroduced into modern orchards. It is known for its high sugar content, firm tannin, and suitability for producing full‑bodied, dry cider. The Big Fish Harrison ($19.50) is made off-dry with 1% residual sugar that is completely balanced by the apple's tartness and acidity. The apples were sourced from Glaize & Bros Orchard in Winchester, VA and provide sufficient tannin to ensure a full bodied palate.  

We did not have time to sample their complete portfolio as we looked at at 2.4 hour journey home, but if the Harrison is an indication, we will return, perhaps in maple syrup season. Cheers. 

Update: The text has been updated to reflect that the apples where sourced from Glaize & Bros Orchard in Winchester, VA and not Crimora farm. Big Fish uses Highland County apples when possible, and when the weather doesn't cooperate, they source apples as locally as possible. 

In addition, while Kirk Billingsley founded Big Fish and operated it for 10 years, last year it was purchased by cidermaker Joshua Corl.