Spirits for the World Cup Knockout Round: June 30, 2026

Over the years I’ve built a small global library of distilled spirits and fortified wines, and the World Cup Knockout Round feels like the perfect excuse to dig back into it - researching the producers, revisiting the bottles, and tasting my way through the bracket. Starting with the June 29th matches, I’ll be recommending one or two spirits for each game, whether they’re already on my shelf or simply deserve a place in the lineup. Click here to view the other World Cup Knockout Round matches. Today's matches for June 30th. 

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Ivory Coast vs Norway

Ivory Coast
(For historical information only.)The traditional distilled spirit of the region is Koutoukou (also spelled Koutouk), a potent, clear, home-distilled brandy made from fermented Bandji (palm wine) or sugarcane molasses.  Koutoukou typically has an alcohol content of 40–60% ABV, possesses a hot and estery flavor with hints of banana and grass, and is traditionally served at village feasts and urban eateries (maquis).  Although the production and sale of Koutoukou have been officially banned in Ivory Coast since 1964 due to health and safety concerns, it remains widely available through informal channels. 

Norway
Aquavit (also spelled akvavit or akevitt) is the national distilled spirit of Norway, often referred to as the country's "water of life." It is a Scandinavian spirit distilled primarily from potatoes and flavored with aromatic herbs and spices, most notably caraway and dill. By law, "Norwegian aquavit" must be distilled from at least 95% Norwegian potatoes and aged in oak casks for a minimum of six months, which gives it a golden color and complex flavor profile involving notes of cumin, citrus, and vanilla.

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France vs Sweden

Brenne French Single Malt Whisky (France)
It’s easy to forget that one of the most quietly influential single malts of the past decade didn’t come from Scotland, Ireland, or the U.S., but from a tiny pocket of Cognac country — where a former ballerina and a fourth‑generation distiller teamed up to create Brenne French Single Malt. Founded in 2012 by Allison Parc, Brenne was built on a simple but novel idea: that French terroir, Cognac‑seasoned oak, and estate‑grown barley could produce a completely different single malt — softer, fruit‑driven, and unmistakably French. 

The whisky begins with 100% estate‑grown malted barley, fermented and distilled in classic Charente copper alembics normally reserved for eau‑de‑vie. That choice alone sets Brenne apart: alembic distillation yields a rounder, more textural spirit with deep fruit esters. Maturation unfolds in two stages — first in French Limousin oak, then in ex‑Cognac casks, where residual grape spirit, rancio characters of caramelized nuts, and slow oxidative aging build layers of tropical fruit, patisserie notes, and silky sweetness. Nothing about this process is hurried; everything is shaped by Cognac’s long‑form approach to time. 

Brenne opens with ripe banana, mango, toasted notes, and floral honey on the nose. The palate is expressive: crème brûlée, apricot, vanilla, soft spice, and a gentle almond‑pastry richness that feels more like dessert than dram. The finish is long, warming, and fruit‑forward, with lingering cocoa, citrus oil, and Cognac sweetness. In my opinion, Brenne remains one of the most distinctive single malts in the world.

Sweden
Like Norway, Sweden’s national spirit is aquavit. Produced across regions like Skåne and Halland, Swedish aquavit is shaped by grain or potato bases and botanicals that echo Scandinavian cuisine, resulting in a crisp, savory profile traditionally enjoyed during festive meals and cultural toasts.

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Mexico vs Ecuador

Cambio Tequila Añejo (Mexico)
Cambio Tequila Añejo begins with a philosophy that feels radical in modern celebrity tequila: a return to historic Mexican‑styled methods that once defined the category. John des Rosiers built Cambio around the idea that tequila should retain its terroir through every step of production. Whole highland Blue Weber agave from the Ruvalferti estate are harvested and cooked the same day in stone ovens for four slow days, then crushed by a traditional tahona to preserve sweetness, texture, and delicate aromatics often lost in autoclaves or diffusers. This foundation — whole‑agave cooking, slow heat, stone milling — sets the stage for an Añejo rooted in Jalisco’s agricultural soul rather than industrial efficiency.

Fermentation deepens that identity. Instead of stainless steel, Cambio uses a 14‑day, low‑temperature fermentation in wooden vats of Tennessee white oak and Mexican oak, fed by volcanic‑filtered deep‑well water and a four‑yeast system that builds fruit, spice, and texture. Even malolactic fermentation appears, softening edges and adding creaminess. Distillation follows the same ethos: a 12‑hour run in an Alembic copper still to exactly 50% ABV, with no heads‑and‑tails cutting and no filtration of oils — a musto muerto carrying every nuance of the agave.

Aging completes the transformation. Cambio Añejo rests 15–24 months in three types of French oak, gaining warm vanilla, roasted agave, gentle baking spice, and lifted fruit while avoiding heavy barrel dominance. Even the label honors heritage, crafted from artisan amate paper using Maya‑ and Aztec‑era techniques.

Ecuador
Ecuador’s defining spirit is aguardiente_de_caña, a rustic sugarcane distillate rooted in Andean and coastal traditions. Often produced by small‑scale trapiches, it carries a bright, earthy sweetness and a raw, expressive character that mirrors Ecuador’s agricultural heritage, appearing in local celebrations, communal gatherings, and regional cocktails.

Spirits for the World Cup Knockout Round: June 29, 2026

Over the years I’ve built a small global library of distilled spirits and fortified wines, and the World Cup Knockout Round feels like the perfect excuse to dig back into it - researching the producers, revisiting the bottles, and tasting my way through the bracket. Starting with today’s matches, I’ll be recommending one or two spirits for each game, whether they’re already on my shelf or simply deserve a place in the lineup. Today's matches for June 29th. 

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Brazil vs Japan

Novo Fogo Silver Cachaça
Cachaça is Brazil’s national spirit - a sugarcane‑based distillate that combines the country’s agricultural, cultural, and culinary identity. Made by fermenting and distilling fresh‑pressed cane juice, it’s brighter, grassier, and more expressive than molasses made rum, with a natural sweetness that makes it ideal for cocktails. 

Novo Fogo’s Silver Cachaça is one of the clearest expressions of what makes Brazilian cane spirits so compelling: purity, freshness, and a sense of place that comes straight from the rainforest. Distilled in the hills of Paraná, Novo Fogo works with organic sugarcane grown in the Atlantic Forest, harvested by hand and pressed within hours to preserve its bright, grassy aromatics. Fermentation is quick and clean, driven by native yeast, and distillation in small copper pot stills yields a spirit that’s both vibrant and textural. Unlike many cachaças that lean on wood for identity, Silver rests only in neutral stainless steel, allowing the cane’s natural character to shine without interference. The result is a crystalline, terroir‑true cachaça that feels tailor‑made for the Caipirinha - lime, sugar, and Silver coming together in a cocktail that tastes like Brazil’s coastline in a glass. Novo Fogo Silver opens with fresh cane, lime zest, white pepper, and subtle tropical fruit, followed by a palate of grassy sweetness, citrus, and gentle minerality. The finish is both clean and refreshing.

Takamine Koji‑Fermented Whisky - 8 Years 
Few whiskies bridge cultures as elegantly as Takamine. Named for Dr. Jokichi Takamine — the chemist who introduced koji fermentation to American distilling in the 1890s — this whisky resurrects his original method, blending Japanese technique with American grain tradition. The result is one of the most historically significant and technically fascinating whiskies being made today. Takamine begins with a barley‑based mash, but instead of relying solely on malt enzymes, the distillery uses koji (Aspergillus oryzae) to convert starches — a method borrowed from sake, shochu, and miso production. Koji fermentation produces a different set of esters, amino acids, and aromatic compounds, yielding a spirit that is simultaneously grain‑true and deeply umami‑inflected. After distillation, the whisky ages eight years in a combination of new American oak and refill barrels, allowing the koji‑driven fruit and savory notes to integrate with vanilla, spice, and gentle tannin.

Takamine opens with pear, melon, steamed rice, honey, and subtle floral aromatics on the nose. The palate is layered and unmistakably koji‑shaped: stone fruit, white chocolate, toasted grain, citrus peel, and a soft miso‑like savoriness that adds dimension without heaviness. The finish is long, clean, and quietly complex, with vanilla and rice‑candy sweetness. It’s a whisky that honors a forgotten chapter of American distilling while showcasing the expressive power of Japanese fermentation. 

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Germany vs Paraguay

Lantenhammer Enzianbrennerei -Altbayerischer Bauern‑Obstbrand 
Bavaria’s distilling heritage has quietly produced some of Europe’s most expressive fruit brandies, such as those from Lantenhammer. Founded in 1928 on the shores of Lake Schliersee, Lantenhammer built its reputation on alpine botanicals, but over the decades it became equally revered for its Altbayerischer Bauern‑Obstbrand — a traditional farmer’s fruit brandy. 

The spirit begins with hand‑selected apples and pears sourced from small Bavarian farms, harvested at peak ripeness to capture maximum aromatic intensity. Fermentation is slow and temperature‑controlled, preserving delicate esters and the natural skin‑driven aromatics that define great orchard brandy. Distillation takes place in small copper pot stills, where Lantenhammer’s signature technique - gentle heating, slow cuts, and meticulous separation - yields a spirit of exceptional purity and texture. After distillation, the brandy rests in earthenware vessels, a traditional Bavarian method that allows the fruit to open gradually without the influence of oak. This resting period is crucial: it softens the edges, integrates the aromatics, and preserves the crystalline fruit character that defines the house style. 

Altbayerischer Bauern‑Obstbrand opens with fresh apple, ripe pear, and subtle floral and alpine herbs on the nose. The palate is clean: crisp apple, soft pear sweetness, citrus lift, and a gentle almond‑skin depth adding depth. The finish is long and quietly complex, with lingering pear, floral lift, and a hint of minerality. 

Paraguay
Caña paraguaya would be the appropriate selection. It is a sugar cane spirit distilled from fermented sugar cane juice (mosto), sometimes with added honey.

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Netherlands vs Morocco

Netherlands
I can't believe I don't have any Dutch Jenever on hand.  This is a traditional juniper-flavored spirit that has been produced in the country since the 17th century. And in 2008, Jenever has held a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status within the EU, recognizing its origins in the Netherlands and Belgium. It is distilled from a mash of grains, primarily malted barley, rye, wheat, and corn, producing a base known as malt wine (moutwijn).  This malt wine is then blended with neutral alcohol and flavored with juniper berries and other botanicals. 

Morocco
Apparently, Morocco’s national distilled spirit is Mahia ("water of life"), an aniseed-flavored eau-de-vie traditionally distilled from figs or dates and historically associated with the country’s Jewish community. 

Click here to view the other World Cup Knockout Round matches. 

Understanding Certified Regenified™ Through Ashton Creek Vineyard

Recently we read that Ashton Creek Vineyard becoming the first vineyard in Virginia to earn Certified Regenified™ status.  We have written previously about Regenerative Farming and the various regulations stipulated through USDA Certified Organic, Demeter Biodynamic, or Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC).  But not Regenified™.

In general, Regenerative agriculture is a collection of practices that focus on regenerating soil health and the full farm ecosystem. In practice, regenerative organic agriculture can look like cover cropping, crop rotation, low- to no-till, compost, and zero use of persistent chemical pesticides and fertilizers. Layered into these practices, depending on a farm’s needs, could be the addition of perennials, development of pollinator and wildlife habitats, incorporation of agroforestry systems, vegetative barriers, and other regenerative practices that are shown to contribute to the development of soil organic matter

More specifically, Regenified™ provides a structured way to document how farming decisions influence soil function and long‑term site health. Its 6‑3‑4 Standard aligns with many practices already familiar to growers: reduced tillage, permanent or seasonal cover crops, mixed‑species plantings, maintaining living roots through the year, and the controlled use of livestock for vegetation management. 

The 6‑3‑4 Standard is Regenified™’s core framework for evaluating regenerative agriculture, combining six soil‑health principles, three rules of adaptive stewardship, and four ecosystem processes into a single, measurable structure. The six principles—context, minimizing disturbance, soil armor, diversity, living roots, and livestock integration—outline the foundational conditions needed for healthy soil function. The three adaptive‑stewardship rules emphasize planning with intent, monitoring conditions, and adjusting management as variability occurs. The four ecosystem processes—energy flow, water cycle, mineral cycle, and community dynamics—describe how a functioning landscape moves energy, water, and nutrients through the system. Together, these components allow Regenified™ to assess both the practices a producer implements and the ecological outcomes observed on the ground, forming the basis for its data collection and tiered certification program.

During verification, trained assessors collect more than sixty ecological data points within vineyard blocks—water infiltration in alleys, ground‑cover percentages, compaction layers that affect rooting depth, biological activity around root zones, and the diversity of plant communities that influence soil structure and pest dynamics. These measurements create a practical record of how the vineyard is functioning beyond yield and canopy metrics. Growers are then placed within a tiered certification system that reflects their current alignment with regenerative principles and the ecological outcomes observed on site. For vineyards interested in demonstrating stewardship with clear, repeatable criteria, the framework offers a consistent way to track progress and communicate improvements to buyers, neighbors, and regional partners.

Screenshot from Ashton Creek Vineyard's website.

In 2018, Ashton Creek Vineyard started struggling with ever-increasing inputs and declining soil health and two years later began moving to a more organic and regenerative approach to viticulture. The idea was to "fix the root cause of the sickness instead of always addressing the symptoms". For example, struggling to keep up with mechanical weeding, they introduced Dorper sheep to their vineyards to help control vegetation and enhance soil health. Next they released beneficial bugs to target vineyard pests and diversified their cover crop plantings. This process eventually led to the Regenified™ program and they earned Tier 3 Certified Regenified™ status in May 20, 2026.  This certification recognizes their "measurable progress in soil health and ecosystem function, achieved through practices such as replacing diesel mowers with a flock of sheep, eliminating synthetic inputs, and increasing soil organic matter". 

In practical terms, adopting these practices have allowed Ashton Creek Vineyard to "eliminate synthetic fertilizers and herbicides, decrease fungicide use by 40%, limit mowing and labor, reduce outside inputs by 65%, and increase their soil’s organic matter by 400% and carbon capture by 350%." --Virginia Farm Bureau. 

If other vineyards or farms are interested in replicating Ashton Creek Vineyard's success, our next Regenerative Farming post will explain the NRCS Regenerative Pilot Program - a new program encouraging regenerative farming through the U.S. Department of Agriculture's Natural Resources Conservation Service. 

Father's Day with the Van Winkle Family - a Jack Rose Dining Saloon Tasting

Father’s Day at Jack Rose Dining Saloon offered an opportunity to revisit the Van Winkle family’s long arc through American whiskey, presented through both biography and a focused tasting. The program was presented by Chris Leung (Lead Whiskey Advisor at Jack Rose) who opened with the story of Julian "Pappy" Van Winkle. Pappy's career began as a traveling salesman for W.L. Weller & Sons in the mid-1890s. That early work eventually positioned him to help form Stitzel‑Weller Distillery after Prohibition, where he served as the first president. The discussion then moved forward to Julian Van Winkle III, who entered a joint venture with Buffalo Trace Distillery in 2002, establishing a partnership that allows Buffalo Trace to produce, age, and bottle all Van Winkle whiskeys under strict family guidelines.   

The Lineup:

• Elmer T. Lee | single barrel, x YR, 90° 
• Weller Single Barrel 2025 KST | x YR, 97° 
• Weller Full Proof “Jack Rose 2019” Single Barrel KST | x YR, 114° 
• Old Rip Van Winkle KST | 10 YR, 107° 
• Van Winkle Family Reserve Lot B KST | 12 YR, 90.4° 
• Van Winkle Family Reserve Rye KST | 13 YR, 95.6°

The tasting began with Elmer T. Lee (90°), a single‑barrel bourbon I associated it with a smooth Ancient Age character. A small addition of water opened the aromatics toward honeyed nuts, while the high‑rye mash bill kept the structure firm. The Weller Single Barrel 2025 KST (97°) followed, showing nutmeg and baking spices on the nose and a buttered‑popcorn note on the palate; water brought out pepper and dill. As a high‑wheat bourbon, it presented a softer grain profile, though the single‑barrel selection added definition.

The Weller Full Proof “Jack Rose 2019” Single Barrel KST (114°) offered a warmer expression with more concentrated baking spices and a toasted‑bread character touched with cinnamon sugar. The discussion noted that “full proof” is not a technical indicator of style, and that barrel selection remains the more meaningful variable. Moving into the Van Winkle lineup, Old Rip Van Winkle 10 Year (107°) showed orange peel, herbs, macadamia nuts, and a light butter‑honey note—youthful but balanced.

The Van Winkle Family Reserve Lot B (12 Year, 90.4°) displayed cinnamon and herbal aromatics with a rounded, buttery mouthfeel. A touch of water increased the alcohol’s presence rather than softening it, a reminder of how older wheated bourbons can behave in the glass. The final pour, Van Winkle Family Reserve Rye (13 Year, 95.6°), shifted the profile entirely to fir‑like aromatics and herbaceous notes that distinguished it from the preceding bourbons and provided a clean, structured finish. 

Beer Centric: Dortmunder Export and Cushwa Brewing Company’s Starting Over

Dortmunder Export is one of those silent European lager styles that rarely gets the spotlight. Born in the industrial city of Dortmund in the mid‑19th century (first brewed in 1873 by DUB), it emerged during the same era that produced Pilsner and Munich Helles -- yet it carved out its own identity: a pale lager with the soft malt depth of Helles, a hoppy base of a German Pilsner, the firm minerality of Dortmund’s brewing water, and a slightly elevated strength (higher gravity) that made it suitable for export. By the early 20th century, Dortmunder breweries like Dortmunder Union (DUB) and Dortmunder Actien Brauerei (DAB) were shipping beer across Europe to consumers who enjoyed balancing drinkability with a subtle, structured backbone.

A recent trip to Hagerstown, Maryland included a visit to Cushwa Brewing Company where their Starting Over Dortmunder is available via a 16oz can.  This modern American interpretation respects that balance between drinkability and  the structured backbone.. Brewed to 5.0% ABV, it presents the style’s hallmark clarity and golden hue, leaning into a clean and soft malt profile supported by gentle bitterness. The beer pours a bright straw‑gold with a tight white head, offering soft grain aromatics and a touch of herbal hop character. On the palate, it’s rounded but not sweet, finishing dry with the faint mineral edge that defines the style. This is a faithful nod to Dortmund’s brewing heritage.

The Virginia Birthplace of American Spirits Collection: The Coast Rum

"America's first spirit was rum... For a solid 150-plus years, that's what we drank." -- Barry Hanenberg of Virago Spirits (CBS6 Richmond Interview)

And somehow we have forgotten that fact. Rum was the widely produced in the colonies, with New England distilleries converting Caribbean molasses into a domestic staple as early as the 1640s . By the mid‑18th century, rum was so embedded in daily life that consumption reached an estimated fourteen liters per person annually, effectively making it the national drink of colonial America. British taxation-- starting with the Molasses Act of 1733 and then the Sugar Act of 1764 -- choked off affordable molasses imports, crippling the industry and paving the way for whiskey’s rise after the Revolution. Prohibition dealt another blow, and when legal drinking returned in 1933, Americans largely favored imported Caribbean rum rather than rebuilding a domestic tradition.

Today. several entities are attempting to rebuild this American Rum tradition such as Caroline Porsiel, Founder & CEO, House of Applejay Distillery and Co-Founder of the American Brandy & Rum (AMBRu) Campaign as well as BevFluence and their timely TERROIR campaign,  a multi-dimensional campaign across seven locked categories: Touriga Nacional and Portuguese varietals, Emerging spirits, Riesling, Rum, Obscure, Italian varietals, and Rye. A third entity is the Virginia Spirits Guild, who in partnership with the Virginia Spirits Board, the Virginia American Revolution 250 Commission, and Virginia ABC, created the The Virginia: Birthplace of American Spirits Collection. This is a limited‑edition three‑bottle release to commemorate America’s 250th anniversary and to highlight the Commonwealth’s foundational role in early American distillation. The trio of spirits includes a botanical gin, a four‑grain whiskey, and an aged rum—each designed to reflect a different geographic and historical dimension of Virginia’s distilling heritage

The rum in the collection - nicknamed the Coast expression -- was crafted under the leadership of Barry Hanenberg of Virago Spirits, who brought together the complementary strengths of Vitae Spirits, Belmont Farm Distillery, and Chesapeake Bay Distillery to create a blend that reflects Virginia’s Tidewater identity and its deep colonial ties to the molasses trade. Drawing on rums contributed by three of the partner distilleries, the team built a spirit averaged 7.5 years of age and weighing in at a robust 105‑proof. From the same CBS6Richmond interview, Hanenberg refers to the Coast as "a sipping rum" that will surprise whiskey drinkers with preconceived notions.  It provides a complex experience, with layers of what I would describe as honey and caramel drizzled on toasted macadamia nuts between earthiness, and oak inspired baking notes. 

The individual components of the rum were driven by each contributor's distilling philosophy. According to anonymous sources, Virago’s house style is rooted in their Caribbean‑influenced pot‑still and a focus on layered, oxidative depth. Their contribution shaped the blend’s weight, mid‑palate richness, and molasses‑forward profile. Vitae Spirits added the brightest, most aromatic elements in the blend. Known for their cane‑juice‑driven distillation and precision fermentation, Vitae’s rum brought lift, tropical notes, and grassy freshness beneath the deeper molasses tones. Belmont Farm Distillery contributed a traditional pot‑still rum that added rusticity, structure, and oak‑leaning edges. And finally, Chesapeake Bay Distillery supplied a clean, column‑still‑driven rum that helped lengthen the finish, sharpen the structure, and keep the blend from becoming overly dense.

"No one goes to the liquor store and says, 'Let me get that American rum.' That category doesn't exist yet. That's what we need to create, and I think when people taste this, they're going to start thinking differently about the rums they can get from the continental United States." -- Barry Hanenberg of Virago Spirits (CBS6 Richmond Interview)

Let's toast to America’s 250th anniversary, the Virginia distilling tradition, and the revival of the American Rum category.  

Grape Spotlight: Moravian Pálava Using Sonberk as a Benchmark

Pálava tells the story of modern Moravia: a native grape rooted in tradition, yet confident enough to speak to the world. For many Czech wine lovers, Pálava represents a distinctly Moravian style of wine and is often considered one of the country's signature varieties. -- Sonberk Winery **

During an evening at the Czechia Embassy, we tasted two expressions of a local hybrid Pálava - a variety developed in Moravia by Josef Veverka from a crossbreeding Gewürztraminer and Müller-Thurgau. The new grape was named after the Pálava Hills, a UNESCO-protected landscape area in South Moravia renowned for its vineyards, limestone slopes, and centuries-old winemaking tradition. The breeding station where Veverka completed his work was located on the slopes of these hills, making the name a natural tribute to the region. Imagine the aromatics in these wines. First, though, let's step into the terroir. 

Moravia is the Czech Republic's viticultural engine and is responsible for 96% of Czech wine production. The region sits along the 49th parallel, sharing a latitude with Alsace and Champagne. It also resides at the intersection of Pannonian warmth and Central European coolness which helps explain its hallmark style: high‑acid, aromatic wines shaped by warm summers, cool autumns, and slow ripening. Vineyards typically lie between 240–320 meters in elevation and the soil is a mosaic of loess, limestone, sand, and ancient seabed deposits.

Mikulov is a subregion of Moravia and is dominated by the limestone massif of Pálava -- one of Moravia’s most distinctive terroirs. It excels in Welsch Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon, and the local aromatic cross Pálava. The town of Mikulov is a cultural and wine hub, home to festivals and historic wine presses. 

Pálava is a mid‑ to late‑ripening variety, typically reaching full maturity toward the end of the harvest window in South Moravia. It thrives in warm exposures where it can accumulate flavor precursors without losing acidity. The grape forms medium‑compact clusters with small to medium berries, thick enough in skin to contribute a gentle phenolic grip an advantage over its parents. Yields must be controlled; if overcropped, aromatics flatten and the wine loses its distinctive spice. In the right sites, however, Pálava develops a layered aromatic profile while maintaining enough acidity to avoid heaviness. The result is unmistakable: a wine that marries Traminer’s rose‑petal aromatics with the gentle acidity and orchard‑fruit charm of Müller‑Thurgau.

Sonberk Winery stands on a vineyard site cultivated since at least the 13th century, historically prized for its south‑facing slopes overlooking the Pálava Hills in the Mikulov subregion. Founded in 2003, the modern winery was built in 2008 and is recognized as one of Czechia’s first examples of contemporary wine architecture. Sonberk farms roughly 40–45 hectares on loess soils and produces acclaimed whites - especially Riesling, Pálava, Traminer, and Sauvignon - known for focusing on low yields, hand harvesting, and meticulous vineyard work to highlight the character of Mikulov's limestone terroir. 

"One of Pálava's greatest strengths is its versatility. Few aromatic varieties are capable of expressing themselves so convincingly across different levels of sweetness. In our experience, a near-dry style with around 5–6 g/L of residual sugar offers exceptional harmony at the table, allowing the wine's freshness and aromatics to shine. At the same time, Pálava can achieve extraordinary results in sweeter styles, including traditional straw wines with residual sugar levels approaching 190 g/L, where its floral character and exotic fruit notes gain impressive depth and complexity. **"

The winery's approach to Pálava is deliberately restrained: fermentations are cool, aromatics are preserved, and residual sugar is kept in balance with acidity. The result is a style that feels modern and architectural --aromatic but not exaggerated, textured but never heavy. Sonberk’s Pálava typically shows layers of white peach, lychee, citrus blossom, and ginger, grounded by a mineral line that reflects the vineyard’s limestone base. 

At the Embassy, we started with the 2024 Pálava, their everyday offering that, besides the strong floral aromas, shows tropical notes such as guava and peaches, some ginger, and all within a surprisingly fuller body. Expect minerality racing through the finish. The second expression was the Pálava 2024 VOC which shared similar traits as the previous with additional spice and texture from the oak treatment.  The wine is produced under the VOC (Wine of Original Certification) appellation system, which guarantees the wine's origin and typicity. This wine provides both charm and structure. The winery believes both wines are ready for the international market. I heartily concur. 

These wines are available through Wine of Czech Republic.

** Thank you to Kristína Eibl, Head of Marketing & Events at Sonberk Winery for most of the information about Pálava and the vineyard photos. 

Drouet Cognac and the Character of Grande Champagne

Today is World Cognac Day and thus a good excuse to revisit two cognacs from Cognac Drouet. Their 74 acres stretch across both Grande and Petite Champagne near the town of Cognac, yet every bottle they release comes exclusively from Grande Champagne fruit. This choice reflects their philosophy: a belief that the premier cru’s chalk‑rich soils, high‑acid Ugni Blanc, and slow‑maturing eaux‑de‑vie offer the most expressive foundation for long‑aged Cognac. Like the families featured in earlier WineCompass tastings -- Pierre Vallet with its meticulous cellar work and Famille Naud with its revival of historic stills -- Drouet remains firmly rooted in the historical methods that defined Cognac. Copper pot stills, small‑batch distillation, long élevage in seasoned oak, and hands‑on bottling are simply the way the family has always worked.

That commitment becomes immediately clear in their Grande Champagne VSOP. Although VSOP requires only five years in oak, Drouet ages this spirit between five and ten years, allowing the fruit to deepen and the structure to soften without losing the tension that defines the cru. The grapes come entirely from estate parcels, harvested and distilled in small 240‑liter batches by Patrick Drouet, then bottled largely by hand. The result is a VSOP that carries the richness and intensity associated with Grande Champagne’s "thoroughbred" reputation—ripe fruit, polished texture, and a sense of precision that reflects the estate’s patient approach.

Fine Mélina offers a different view into the same terroir. Distilled without wine lees, it shows a lighter, fresher profile, emphasizing clarity over weight. The spirit was aged exclusively in older casks that had previously held eaux‑de‑vie, a choice that allows the Cognac to evolve gently without strong oak influence. The 2012 vintage reveals a delicate and rich aromatic profile, with prune, chocolate, and subtle spice on the nose, followed by a palate marked by finesse and length. Where the VSOP leans into structure, Fine Mélina leans into nuance, offering an alternative counterpoint within the same estate style.

Taken together, these Cognacs show a producer deeply committed to the character of Grande Champagne and to the slow, deliberate craft that has defined the region for generations. Drouet’s work captures the essence of what makes Cognac compelling: a respect for land, a patience with time, and a belief that tradition still has something vital to say.

Beer Centric: Dutch-Style Kuyt Ale

Most drinkers have never heard of Kuyt, the 14th‑century Dutch three‑grain ale built on oats, wheat, and barley — but Pittsburgh's Allegheny City Brewing is one of the rare U.S. breweries bringing it back. 

Dutch-Style Kuyt (also spelled Kuit or Koyt) is a historic gold to copper colored ale that originated in the Netherlands in the 14th century.  Lost Beers has an old, but still relevant, historical treatment of the style which is famous for its unique three-grain proportions: minimum 45% oats, 20% wheat malt, and the remainder pale or pilsner malt.  It offers an exceptionally light, smooth, and slightly sweet flavor featuring a grainy-bready aroma and medium-low to medium bitterness. 

The ACB Going Up To Cali (4.5% ABV) follows the historic ratio of three parts oats, two parts barley, one part wheat, a structure that once defined Dutch brewing before lagers took over. The result is a smooth, lightly sweet, grain‑driven ale with a bready aroma and earthy depth.

Brewers Association Beer Style Guidelines

Dutch-Style Kuit, Kuyt or Koyts are gold to copper colored ale. Chill haze and other haze is allowable. The overall aroma character of this beer is grain emphasized with a grainy-bready accent. Hop aroma is very low to low from noble hops or other traditional European varieties. The distinctive character comes from use of minimum 45% oat malt, minimum 20% wheat malt and the remainder pale malt. Hop flavor is very low to low from noble or other traditional European varieties. Hop bitterness is medium-low to medium in perceived intensity. Esters may be present at low levels. Very low levels of diacetyl are acceptable. Acidity and sweet corn-like DMS (dimethylsulfide) should not be perceived. This style of beer was popular in the Netherlands from 1400-1550. Body is low to medium.  Original Gravity (ºPlato) 1.050 - 1.080 (19.3 - 12.4) ● Apparent Extract/Final Gravity (ºPlato) 1.006 - 1.015 (3.7 - 1.5) ● Alcohol by Weight (Volume) 3.80% - 6.30% (7.90% - 4.70%) ● Bitterness (IBU) 25 - 35 ● Color SRM (EBC) 5 - 12.5 (10 - 25)