Grape Spotlight: Islas Canarias DOP Listán Blanco and the Bodega El Lomo 4 Lías

Courtesy of vineyards.com

The Canary Islands archipelago is an interesting region for growing grapes as it is the most tropical of Europe's wine regions. Lying off the west coast of Morocco, the tropical climate is generally hot and humid but there are numerous micro-climates and topographical features that make wine production possible. The altitude of the stone-terrace vineyards is vital and for the majority, it ranges from 1,600-3,300 feet above sea level, providing a string diurnal temperature change.  This ensures that freshness and acidity are maintained in the grapes.

Volcanic soils are also beneficial to grape growing. The soil imparts mineral and subtle, mineral notes to the otherwise largely aromatic wines.  And because of its isolation from the European mainland, phylloxera never reached the archipelago and imported rootstock was never needed. Thus Canarian wines are made from old and ungrafted vines. 

Wine is made on seven of the eight main islands, encompassing 11 Denominaciones de Origen Protegida (DOPs), the overall Islas Canarias DOP, five individual island DOPs, and five located on the largest island - Tenerife: Abona, Tacoronte-Acentejo, Valle de Guimar, Valle de la Orotava and Ycoden-Daute-Isora.  In order, these encompass the southern coast, northeast coast, southeast coast, northwest, and western part of Tenerife.

Courtesy of Bodega El Lomo

Along with Malvasia, Listán Blanco is the most popular white wine grape. The name is a synonym for the popular Jerez sherry grape: Palomino. In Andalucia, the variety has a rather neutral flavor profile, with low acidity and potential alcohol, making it a natural for fortification in Sherry's particular winemaking style.  However, in the volcanic soils and high elevation of the Islas Canarias DOP, Listán Blanco achieves much more acidity from the diurnal temperatures and is usually harvested prematurely to give it a touch of freshness. In this instance, it shows light and subtle herbal (fennel), peach and dried fruit aromas which seem to enhance the mineral and saline character of the volcanic terroir.

Bodega El Lomo is located in Tenerife with multiple estates located in distinct microclimates on the island.  The estate vineyard ("Fray Luis")  is located at 1400 feet above the sea in a volcanic fault with the vines cultivated in terraces. "This farm, according to historical records, has been a vineyard for more than 300 years".  Their highest vineyard is "Chío" located at 3600 feet near the Chinyero volcano in the south of the island. And most of their vineyards are located in the northeast of Tenerife averaging 1600 feet. 

The 4 Lías Blanco Seco 2022 is a truly unique wine.  The Listán Blanco base is fermented and aged on its lees as well as the lees from three other wines produced that vintage year at the winery. The other lees derive from Malvasía, Albillo Criollo, and Forastera and come from a sheltered vineyard on the northeast side of Tenerife. The Listán Blanco comes from vineyards located over 2800 feet with the vines planted in deep volcanic soil. 

This is a fantastic complex wine with plenty of ripe stone fruit on the nose with layers of minerality and aggressive acidity. At Jaleo this wine was served with Papas Arrugas (miniature potatoes) and Croquetas de pollo (chicken fritters). Expect $15 or Euros if you can find it in your market. 

Grape Spotlight: Canary Islands Lanzarote DOP Listán Negro and the La Geria Winery Rosado

Courtesy of vineyards.com

The Canary Islands archipelago is an interesting region for growing grapes as it is the most tropical of Europe's wine regions. Lying off the west coast of Morocco, the tropical climate is generally hot and humid but there are numerous micro-climates and topographical features that make wine production possible. The altitude of the stone-terrace vineyards is vital and for the majority, it ranges from 1,600-3,300 feet above sea level, providing a string diurnal temperature change.  This ensures that freshness and acidity are maintained in the grapes.

Courtesy of La Geria Winery

Volcanic soils are also beneficial to grape growing. The soil imparts mineral and subtle, mineral notes to the otherwise largely aromatic wines.  And because of its isolation from the European mainland, phylloxera never reached the archipelago and imported rootstock was never needed. Thus Canarian wines are made from old and ungrafted vines.

Wine is made on seven of the eight main islands, encompassing 11 Denominaciones de Origen Protegida (DOPs), the overall Islas Canarias DOP, five individual islands, and five located on the largest island - Tenerife.  Today's focus is on the easternmost island - Lanzarote - known for the uniqueness of its volcanic (lunar) landscape.  In general, the island has a temperate climate as a result of its proximity to Africa coupled with cooling breezes from the Atlantic Ocean. Plus there is an abnormally large drop in nighttime temperatures enhancing acidity and lengthening the growing season. 

According to wine-searcher.com, "Lanzarote's landscape was transformed from 1730 to 1736 by a series of volcanic eruptions. It covered around a third of the land in thick black lava and ash and destroyed the island's traditional agricultural crops, such as wheat. However, it created the conditions for the island to start its wine production."  Forced to innovate, the vines are planted in cones formed in the lapilli, locally called picón, and additionally protected by small dry stone walls. This type of planting allows the plants to root more easily in the fertile soil, while the upper layer of lapilli reduces evaporation. In addition, the shape of the holes and the additional wall protect the crops from the wind.

Courtesy of La Geria Winery

Listán Negro is the most  most cultivated red wine grape planted in the Canary Islands - and is most dominant in the Tacoronte-Acentejo DOP that covers the island of Tenerife. It is a black-skinned grape formed into funnel shaped and compact clusters The berry, itself, is medium-sized, spherical, and blue-black.  It adapts very well to northern slopes, medium altitude and more evolved soils with a higher level of clay, where it maintains acidity, achieves good alcohol content and good phenolic ripening. Most interesting is that DNA studies have shown that this grape variety is not a mutation of Palomino Fino (Listan Blanco in the Canary Islands).  It is autochthonous to the archipelago. Wines made from Listán Negro vary considerably in style, from rosé wines to light red wines with soft tannins, spice and red berry flavors.

La Geria is a sub-region within Lanzarote and the La Geria Winery was originally founded at the end of the 19th century by the Rijo family and acquired by the Melián family in 1993. It is one of the most visited wineries due to the estate's lunar landscape and extensive portfolio. One of these is the La Geria Rosado 2022 which I was fortunate enough to sample during a Canary Island wine lunch held at Jaleo in Washington, D.C.  The wine is made in the Saignée style using 100% Listán Negro and then fermented after 12 hours of skin contact.  The wine is cheerful - strong aromatics, noticeable texture and minerality, with refreshing acidity. Served with grilled octopus and tapa of shrimp head on, sautéed with garlic sauce. Expect $13 or Euros if you can find it in your market. 

Southern Distillery Tour: Tennessee, Alabama & Louisiana

In early-mid November I embarked on a trip to Lafayette making sure I visited as many distilleries as possible - particularly those that offer a rum expression. 

Drop Zone Distilling, Knoxville Tennessee

This veteran founded distillery offers a company of whiskies, moonshines, flavored moonshines, and other spirits -- including a cane-based rum. Here's their origination story:

"Rod 'Sarge' Parton is on a journey to introduce everyone to the real authentic unadulterated taste of hand-crafted Moonshine made famous from the back hills of Pittman Center, TN by his grandfather and great-grandpap as far back as 1930’s. Rod’s grandfather had a small store up on the river where other shiners would come and get supplies to keep them from having to travel into town and be seen. Rod’s grandfather started making Rye Moonshine in the late 1960’s for a different flavor from the traditional corn-based shine most everyone was making. Rod has now taken the recipes from his great-grandpap’s corn based and his papaw’s rye-based moonshine and perfected the taste of both into Gold Medal Winning very smooth enjoyable shine made for sipping and telling stories around a campfire."

Drop Zone offers three Moonshine expressions based on this family history with the Drop Zone - Legacy 110 Proof, Drop Zone Legacy 135 Proof, and the Drop Zone - Mountain Rye. I purchased a bottle of the rye moonshine in order to savor the moment - great texture, subtle spice and pepper, and easy finish. I also purchased a bottle of the Drop Zone Classic Rum which provides herbaciousness and earthiness - traits not associated with molasses based rums. 

I also need to mention the "Jump Master" Series with an American Single Malt Whiskey, a Rye Whiskey, and a Bourbon Whiskey. All are solid expressions. 

Sweet Home Spirits, Leeds Alabama

Continuing on through our Southern Spirits Tour, I stopped into a relatively new operation located just south of Birmingham, Alabama in the town of Leeds: Sweet Home Spirits. Name after the iconic song of the South and carrying on the tradition of the Swampers of Muscle Shoals this distillery seeks to exude Alabama culture and a love of one’s home. That is why founder Austin Creel, along with his partners, have created Alabama-style whiskies using various mash bills of Rye, Malted Barley, and Corn.

I arrived during their launch of Sweet Home Divided Bourbon encompassing 68% yellow corn -- all sourced from Creel's family farm in Hamilton. Combined with 21% Rye and 11% Malted Barley this Bourbon is finished with charred pecan wood chips to emulate The Heart of Dixie. Very unique. Their signature whiskey however, is the Sweet Home Whiskey, using a 75% sweet corn, 21% rye and 4% malted barley mash bill and aged in various American toasted oak casks. If you ever thought of a crushable whiskey, this is it.

My flight also consisted of the Campfire Whiskey and Cask Strength Bourbon Whiskey. The former is produced by soaking cinnamon sticks into the Sweet Home Whiskey whereas the Cask Strength has a similar mash bill but bottled at 120 proof. A couple drops of water tempers the heat and allow the vanilla and other baking spices to rise.

Wildcat Brothers Distilling, Lafayette Louisiana 

Gator Cove is our home base during our trips to The Pelican State and we are well versed on their regular expressions as well as their limited edition offerings. Particularly through cocktails. However, their newest rum is the limited edition L. Ferrer. This 4-year dark rum was aged in virgin, charred American white oak barrels - replicating the process of aging bourbon.  I'll let the distillery explain "the story behind Wildcat Brothers' new rum, L. Ferrer, draws inspiration from a tantalizing legend about the infamous pirate Jean Laffite. Laffite, a notorious figure in the Gulf of Mexico, was deeply involved in smuggling and privateering, building a reputation as a bold and clever outlaw. After his supposed death in the early 1820s, rumors persisted that he had not truly perished, but instead faked his demise to escape the authorities and his enemies. According to legend, Laffite adopted a new identity, living out the rest of his days as Lorendzo Ferrer in peaceful obscurity." During my three nights visiting Gator Cove, this was a popular option both over ice and in bottle sales. 

Louisiana Spirits Distillery, Lacassine Louisiana

The Bayou Rum Distillery is located about an hour west of Lafayette and was instituted to bring Louisiana rum to the world. From the outset, production has been managed by Cuban born and second-generation rum maker Reiniel Vicente Diaz. His father Omar Vicente was Master Blender of a Cuban rum distillery for 15 years before relocating to the Dominican Republic where the younger Reiniel worked alongside him at the Oliver & Oliver rum company. 

When visiting I recommend the short self guided tour in the media room - paying close attention to the photos and wall posters. Then on to a flight which consisted of eight samples in my case. This starts with the Bayou® White Rum - the core of the portfolio - distilled using their pot still and proofed with triple filtered fresh local water. The Bayou® Pink provides more berry and floral notes with the addition of  local mayhaw berries. Getting into the aged rums, they were all solid expressions starting with the solera Bayou® Reserve Rum aged in ex-bourbon barrels for up to four years. The Bayou® Single Batch #3 is equally unique maturing in California red wine barrels for five years.  

The Bayou® XO Mardi Gras was actually the rationale behind my visit as it was one of two American rums mentioned by Ian Burrell in the American rum chapter of his latest book: Rum A Tasting Course: A Flavor-Focused Approach to the World of Rum.  The rum was matured in bourbon barrels for up to five years and then finished for one additional year in Spanish Pedro Ximenez sherry barrels. Just a fantastic expression - incorporating the orange, fig, and nut characters of the sherry.

The flight finished with three notable expressions starting with the Bayou® Spiced Rum that was inspired by Louisianan Creole baking and  includes three styles of natural vanilla, cinnamon and sweet figs. Then there are the two Gator Bite Louisiana Liqueurs. The Satsuma + Rum offering is sweet oranges - hitting all the Curaçao components. The Coffee + Rum is exactly what you would expect. I envision quick espresso martinis. 

NOËL Family Distillery, Donaldsonville Louisiana 

The NOËL Family Distillery is located just 25 feet above sea level on the banks of the Mississippi, about 35 miles south of Baton Rouge. This is a father-daughter team that graduated from the Moonshine Academy together in order to start a distillery producing rum from molasses and  sugar cane processed at the nearby Cora-Texas Mfg. Co plant in White Castle.  Although centered in Donaldsonville, Chip Noel travelled the globe as a jet pilot whereas daughter Natalie remained local studying marketing at ULL and earning a M.B.A. at LSU. Both visionaries to start a distillery.

On my visit Chip walked me through ta curated flight of their current portfolio, excluding the canned cocktails and Tequila which is made from a proprietary blend of lowland and highland Blue Weber agave in Jalisco, Mexico.  I started with their Rare 6YR Reserve Rum distilled from high-test molasses. Unlike traditional molasses, high-test molasses is not a byproduct of sugar production, but rather a product that is produced instead of sugar. Sipping from home, I can observe dried apricots, caramel, vanilla and an easy finish. The distillery also has a 6YR: Tequila Cask Finished Rum that is distilled from Grade-A molasses and aged in white American oak and finished in ex-tequila barrels. Grade A molasses is the highest quality molasses and most desirable grade, characterized by its good flavor, good color, and minimal defects. This expression is also highly complex with an interesting butterscotch character. 

The flight continued with a Charcoal Filtered Vodka and the Pickle Flavored Vodka. This last was not a favorite of mine, but apparently is with the younger crowd. On the other, I also purchased a bottle of the Charcoal Filtered Vodka which is a fresh clean spirit made from 100% American corn and as the name suggests, charcoal filtered to remove any impurities. The final offering in the flight was a soon to be release Rhum Agricole distilled from cane juice and having all the funky herbaceous notes you expect from this process. Will need to return to add this rum to our collection. 

Perdido Vineyards (Boogie Bottom Spirits), Perdido Alabama

To say the Perdido Vineyards has been a pioneer in the Alabama craft beverage industry is such an understatement. They do hold winery license #1 as the first farm winery in The Heart of Dixie. In fact, founders Jim and Marianne Eddins (who started growing muscadine grapes in 1972) worked with the legislative sponsors to enact the Alabama Native Farm Winery Act of 1979. Prior to this legislation, wineries could only sell to state stores, wholesalers, or out of state and not to retailers and consumers.  In 2002, the couple expanded their operation to include wine vinegars, then fortified wines, cider, and eventually distilled spirits through Boogie Bottom Spirits.

Whereas the winery specializes in many Muscadine expressions, I focused on the fortified wines and spirits. learning all about their various wines, rum, and brandy.  For instance, the rum is made from Alabama sugar cane harvested and processed by farmers who are located very close to the estate. The Joe Cane Rhum Agricole is made straight from the cane juice and is as earthy and funky as expected. The Shipwreck Alabama Rum is their entry level expression with a distinct creamy body and is named after a reputed rum runner and his story, known as the “Whiskey Wreck”.  The 100 proof Blue & Gold Alabama Rum provides more vanilla than the 80 proof Shipwreck and packs a little bite.

As for the fortified wine, I sampled the Satsuma Orange and the Marianne Sherry Style and purchased a bottle of the Marianne to join the Shipwreck on my drive home. I selected the first because I wanted to mentally compare it to the Bayou Satsuma + Rum and it has a similar strong citrus component with a very approachable and lengthy finish. The Marianne (obviously named after Marianne Eddins) was a complete surprise, it is equivalent to the Oloroso style with the muscadine flavors achieving more of  nutty and fig character.  

John Emerald Distilling Company, Opelika Alabama

John Emerald Distilling is a small craft distillery located in downtown Opelika - located in eastern Alabama just northeast of Auburn.  The distillery was founded by former home brewers and father and son team John and Jimmy Sharp in 2015 becoming the first post-prohibition distillery in Alabama. That's a century of illegal stills operating in The Heart of Dixie. The operation is named after John’s Father and honored with their flagship spirit: the Alabama Single Malt Whiskey - a single malt whiskey made in the American Single Malt style and the first whiskey to be legally made in Alabama in 100 years.

The offer spirits from multiple spirits categories and I started with three rum samples starting with Sarah's Silver Rum which is made from local pure cane syrup from Headland, Alabama and dark moncovado cane sugar from the Mauritius Islands. The later is is a type of unrefined cane sugar that retains a significant amount of molasses, resulting in a rich, dark brown color and a robust, almost bitter flavor. Gene's Spiced Rum starts with the Silver and is augmented with Alabama Pecans, Madagascar vanilla beans, Indonesian cinnamon sticks, and star anise pods from Southern China. I came home with a bottle of Spurgeon's Barrel Aged Rum which was the first rum made in Alabama and is barrel aged in their used single malt whiskey barrels for two years. This is a must buy for rum collectors. 

I concluded the tasting with a sample of their Casa Esmeralda Anejo. This agave spirit is made from 100% blue weber agave and aged one year in a white oak barrel. A very smooth offering to close our the tour. 

Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc from Across the Domaine Bousquet Landscape

We love receiving wines from Domaine Bousquet, not only because of their quality and value, but also to learn more about regenerative farming. Their vineyards (first planted in 1997-98) are situated high above the clouds at 4,000 feet in Gualtallary in Mendoza’s Uco Valley. This dry environment definitely helped the winery achieve Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC)™ status -- only the fourth wine estate (and the first outside the U.S.). 

"Regenerative organic agriculture is a collection of practices that focus on regenerating soil health and the full farm ecosystem. In practice, regenerative organic agriculture can look like cover cropping, crop rotation, low- to no-till, compost, and zero use of persistent chemical pesticides and fertilizers. Layered into these practices, depending on a farm’s needs, could be the addition of perennials, development of pollinator and wildlife habitats, incorporation of agroforestry systems, vegetative barriers, and other regenerative practices that are shown to contribute to the development of soil organic matter."

Domaine Bousquet Gaia Organic Cabernet Franc 2021 ($20)

The first tenant of regenerative farming is No-Till Farming. This method offers a range of benefits that can improve soil health, increase crop yields, reduce environmental impacts, and save farmers money.  No-till farming educes soil erosion, preserves soil structure, increases soil organic matter, and reduces soil compaction, leading to better soil biological activity and improved soil health. Fields managed using no-till farming for multiple years have a higher water-holding capacity. And farmers benefit from reduces fuel and labor costs. 

Grapes from the GAIA brand have always been grown organically and the "Greek goddess of the earth, has been the Bousquet family’s inspiration since founding our winery 1997".  This 100% Cabernet Franc wine was aged in French oak between 8 and 10 months and shows luscious layers of dark fruit intertwined with earthy herbaceous notes.

Domaine Bousquet Gran Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($25)

The next tenant of regenerative farming is Biodiversity through at least four plant groups.  This process increases pollinator populations by providing diverse flower-rich habitats and reduced pesticide use support pollinators like bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. It enhances ecosystem services so that soil biota, decomposers, and predators work together to regulate pests and diseases, reducing the need for chemical controls. Biodiversity improves habitat connectivity as regenerative farms with diverse habitats and corridors can support wider species distributions and population growth. And is sequesters carbon as healthy soils and diverse ecosystems help sequester carbon, mitigating climate change and its impacts on biodiversity.

The Gran Domaine Bousquet label features the best grapes from the “home” vineyard – the original vineyard planted by Jean Bousquet in the late 1990s.  The vines live in sandy soils and the grapes benefit from a dramatic diurnal temperature swing. The wine is aged 12 months in French oak lifting the fruit but allowing the layers of dark cherry and dried figs flavors to ride through the palate. The best food pairing: peppered beef jerky. 

Domaine Bousquet Reserve Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($18)

The third tenant of regenerative farming is planting Cover Crops that become layers of armor by protecting the soil from sunlight and maintains moisture. Regenerative farming and cover crops are intertwined concepts that promote soil health, biodiversity, and ecosystem services. Regenerative agriculture focuses on enhancing natural processes to improve soil fertility, structure, and overall ecosystem function. Cover crops play a vital role in this approach, serving as a bridge between cash crops and soil regeneration.'

A step up from the premium varietal line, these blends of Domaine Bousquet 4,000-foot elevation estate-grown grapes from plots with low yields offer more of everything – more body, more tannin in the reds, and more flavor. The wine includes 15% Malbec and was aged 10 months in French oak. This is a wine to savor - layers of dark cherry fruit, traces of minerality and spice and a long lifting finish from the acidity and approachable tannins. Works well with chili.

Domaine Bousquet Alavida Kosher USDA-Certified Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($18)

The fourth tenant of regenerative farming is incorporating Animals as a key component to achieve the regenerative goals. This includes grazing management emphasizing rotational grazing, where animals are moved to different pastures to mimic natural grazing patterns. This approach promotes soil health, increases biodiversity, and sequesters carbon.  Manure is used as a natural fertilizer, reducing the need for synthetic fertilizers and minimizing carbon emissions associated with their production and transportation. Animals like chickens, ducks, and geese can be used as natural pest managers, reducing the need for pesticides and promoting soil health. Holistic approach: Regenerative farming recognizes the interconnectedness of soil, plants, animals, and ecosystem services. By incorporating animals into the farming system, farmers can create a more resilient and diverse ecosystem.

The Alavida brand celebrates "to life!" which is the Spanish interpretation of the Hebrew toast l’chaim!. The brand also celebrates the diversity of Argentina and the multi-cultural family at Domaine Bousquet. In order for a wine to be designated Kosher ("fit or proper" ) handled throughout the production process by religious Jews under the guidance of a Rabbi. Thus the Domaine Bousquet team does not directly handle the production for this wine but based on the winery's unique style and technique. The winemaking team is in constant contact with the Rabbi and his team throughout the winemaking process. The grapes are hand harvested then fermented with selected yeast in stainless steel tanks. And according to the winery, "by not adding SO2, characteristics identified with the high-altitude, cool-climate terroir of Mendoza’s Uco Valley, are strengthened and enhanced. The purity of fruit, aroma, flavor, and freshness become yet more pronounced. Fruit has to be of superb quality, with great concentration, for the wine to remain stable without the presence of SO2. "

A juicy wine with layers of red fruit, distinct earthiness and minerality and lifting acidity.  Definitely has a different character than the previous wines without the aging process. We paired it with the Taza Wicked Dark Chocolate, but I can sea how others would prefer it with the Sea Salt & Almond or 70% Deliciously Dark. 

Domaine Bousquet Ameri Single Vineyard Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($36)

The fifth and final tenant of regenerative farming is instituting Labor Practices that ensure sufficient wages and worker safety. Regenerative farmers prioritize fair labor practices, ensuring decent working conditions, safe working environments, and equitable compensation for farmworkers. Regenerative agriculture values the dignity and well-being of farmers and farmworkers, recognizing their importance in maintaining healthy ecosystems and producing nutritious food. Regenerative farms strive to provide comfortable and safe working conditions, including adequate shade, ventilation, and access to clean water and sanitation facilities. Regenerative farmers avoid using synthetic pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers, reducing exposure risks for farmworkers and promoting a healthier environment. Regenerative agriculture often involves community-based approaches, fostering relationships between farmers, farmworkers, and local communities to promote social and environmental sustainability. Regenerative farmers invest in training and capacity-building programs for farmworkers, enhancing their skills and knowledge in sustainable agriculture practices. Regenerative practices like agroforestry, cover cropping, and crop rotation can reduce labor requirements, improving working conditions and reducing the risk of labor exploitation. Regenerative farmers prioritize continuous learning and improvement, adapting to changing environmental and social conditions while refining their labor practices to ensure long-term sustainability.

Today Domain Bousquet is managed by founder's Jean Bousquet's son-in-law and daughter: Labid al Ameri & Anne Bousquet. al Ameri had joined his father-in-law full time in 2005 helping to build the winery while Anne joined the company in 2008. "In 2009, the couple moved to Tupungato full-time, assuming full ownership in 2011". The Ameri label is obviously named after co-owner Labid al Ameri and the grapes come from a single vineyard, located at 4,125 feet, the highest of the estate. These grapes are the last to be harvested. The wine is aged 12 months in French oak and shows blackberries and dark cherries, more intense minerality with traces of herbaciousness. Expect another long finish with layers of fruit and tannins. 

Pomme and Perry Showcase: Single Varietal Ciders

We look at each cider as a story. When we are making our ciders from the year's harvest we take the apples we are given, the characters, and try to blend into a particular story. Some might be more easy going, others might be more edgy. Making single varietal ciders subtracts the whole story and leaves us focusing on the character, which helps us to get to know the stars of the story - APPLES. -- Nate Watters, Keepsake Cidery

Most ciders on the market are blends of various cider apples sculpted to incorporate various aspects of each apple. But have you ever wondered about the unique characteristics of an individual apple variety? Is it sharp (acidic), sweet, tannic as depicted through the Long Ashton Research Station (LARS) classification? 

By understanding the characteristics of each variety and adjusting production techniques accordingly, cider makers can craft complex and flavorful ciders that showcase the best of each apple. They must factor in the growing conditions of the apples as well as the yeast strains and fermentation temperatures. 

For instance, there are key differences in growing conditions required for optimal flavor development in various single varietal cider apple varieties. These include:

• Climate: Cooler temperatures for sharp and full sharp varieties, moderate temperatures for traditional and modern varieties
• Soil: Acidic soils for bittersharp apples, well-draining soils for dessert apples
• Orchard style: Traditional cider apple varieties thrive in mature, high-density orchards with a mix of soil types and moderate climate conditions. 
• Region: Cider apples grown in different regions, such as the Northeast, Mid-Atlantic, Midwest, and Northwest in the US, may require adjustments to growing conditions based on local climate and soil characteristics. 
• Apple variety: Single varietal ciders made from heritage or traditional cider apple varieties may require specific growing conditions, such as cooler temperatures and higher acidity, to bring out their unique flavor characteristics. In contrast, ciders made from dessert apples may be more forgiving of varying growing conditions.

Snow Capped Cider must manage one set of these differing growing environments. The estate cidery is located at the bottom of The Grand Mesa -- the largest flat top mountain in the world. The orchards sit at elevation ranges between 6,130' - 7,000' and they trees are planted in fertile organic soils irrigated naturally by snow runoff.  This natural condition maintains nutrients -- and along with the high amounts of U.V. exposure due to the altitude -- creates a very high sugar concentration in all of their fruit.  Yet the conditions also encourage the development of tannins and acidity - balancing the sugars. Acidity from the diurnal temperatures and tannins from the fruit's ripeness. 

Different yeast strains and fermentation temperatures can also significantly impact the final flavor profile of single varietal ciders. Yeast strains can introduce various flavor compounds, while fermentation temperatures affect yeast growth, enzyme activity, and the production of volatile compounds. By understanding the characteristics of different yeast strains and fermentation temperatures, cidermakers can experiment and tailor their processes to achieve specific flavor profiles, ultimately creating unique and complex ciders.

Here are a few single varietal ciders that we have sampled recently - most through the BevFluence Pomme and Perry Showcase.

Hewe’s Crab was the most common fruit variety grown in eighteenth-century Virginia. It is thought to be a cross between the native American crabapple, Malus angustifolia, and the domesticated European apple. It produces a delicious cinnamon-flavored cider that is both sugary and pungent. Jefferson planted his entire north orchard exclusively with this variety and once wrote that crushing the juicy Hewe's Crab for cider was like "squeezing a wet sponge." Its small, round fruit, which ripens in September in Central Virginia, is dull red and streaked with green. (monticello.org)  

The Hewe's Crab apple is considered Bittersharp with the bitter implying high tannins (polyphenols) and the sharp implying high acidity (malic acid). This is based on the Long Ashton Research Station (LARS) classification. The tannins and acidity can provide this cider the capability to age.  We are holding back the James Creek Cider House Etude No 4 - Hewe's Crab to test that thesis, but for now this is a perfectly balanced cider in terms of acidity and tannins. The apples were sourced from Glaize Old Home Orchard (60%) and Kordick Family Farm (30%) - don't you love that type of information - and aged in French oak. This one is interesting in that there is a sense of the tropics - as in tropical fruit - in this delicious sparkling cider. 

Ashmead's Kernel is an old English russet apple that originated from a seed planted around 1700 by Dr. Thomas Ashmead in Gloucester, England. The apple is lumpy, misshapen, and rather small with green and golden-brown skin, and a distinct crisp, nutty snap.  Interestingly, Ashmead's Kernel is one of a few apple varieties from the Old World that succeeded in the New World.  "When the first settlers arrived in North America they brought with them tried and tested varieties from Europe, yet few adapted to the very different climates of North America and most of the early successful American apple varieties were chance seedlings that evolved in America.  However Ashmead's Kernel did thrive, and today holds a position of respect on both sides of the Atlantic..". -- Orange Pippen

The Snow Capped Cider 2020 Ashmead's Kernel is a nice representation of the apple as this Pet-Nat styled cider is made using apples grown in their high altitude Colorado orchards (6,130 feet), slowly fermented with natural yeast,  and bottled before fermentation sis complete. This cider has a strong red delicious fresh cider flavor with plenty of juicy acidity and mild tannings. 

Chestnut Crabapple is a larger crabapple introduced at the University of Minnesota in 1949 as a cold hardy pollinator. However, the apple is one of the oldest in the University of Minnesota apple breeding program and was likely "the product of the original seed collected in 1907/1908 that founded the program".  It is very disease resistant to the most common apple tree diseases such as apple scab, cedar apple rust, powdery mildew and fireblight.  It's known to be sweeter and less tart than the smaller crabapples and that was the case with the Keepsake Cidery Dry Cider Chestnut Crab Single Varietal. This Pet-Nat styled cider was naturally fermented from fruit grown at the Gilchrist Orchard. Despite the dryness there is distinct nutty - apple flavors that mimic sweetness - with a blossoming apple aroma and sizzling texture that lingers long into the glass.

The Baldwin apple was introduced commercially around 1784 and by 1850 it was the Northeast’s most popular apple, more widely grown in the United States than any other variety. But a harsh winter in 1934 wiped out most of the Baldwin apple orchards leading to a waning in its popularity. Too bad, because its well documented history is fascinating. It is named after Colonel Loammi Baldwin, a Revolutionary War veteran who crossed the Delaware with Washington and commanded the Woburn Regiment during the Battle of Concord and Lexington; a fellow of the American Academy of Arts and Sciences; and he is known as the Father of American Civil Engineering through his canal construction. Plus he was a fervent apple grower and second cousin to John Chapman ("Johnny Appleseed").  The apple is often medium to large with skin that is yellow, flushed orange, and striped red. The flavor is sweet with crisp acidity. The South Hill Cider Baldwin is made using the traditional method champenoise. It is bone dry with lingering citrus notes and a refreshingly effervescent finish. In fact, the amount of citrus is surprising coming from a cider. 

Dabinett is a British cider apple found by William Dabinett in the early 1900s growing as a wild seedling. It is a very reliable variety with high quality juice and is known for its strong aroma and distinctive flavor. The apples are small with red stripes often with red flush and makes a bittersweet cider which is mellow and full-bodied. "The tannins found in the flesh of these apples are the same substance found on the skin of wine grapes, which affects the flavor and acts as a stabilizer and natural preservative in both wine and cider" (Cider Scene)  The South Hill Cider Dabinett Keeved 2022 is made in the traditional French keeving method to achieve a wild-fermented and naturally semi-dry cider.  This process uses a slow 180 day fermentation after a cold maceration, and bottling before fully fermented to create a petillant naturel sparkling cider.  This is such a unique cider both in terms of the fermentation method and the apple varietal. There are layers of complex flavors flowing through the tannic body - some tropical, some earthy funk, some black tea - very complex. 

Effervescence Unleashed: Champagne Widows: First Woman of Champagne, Veuve Clicquot and the Breathless Brut

In order to help kickoff the BevFluence Effervescence Unleashed program I participated in a book-sparkling wine collaboration between Rebecca Rosenberg's Champagne Widows: First Woman of Champagne, Veuve Clicquot and the Breathless Brut from Breathless Sparking Wines.

The historical novel follows the life of Barbe-Nicole Clicquot and her role launching the famous internationally recognized sparkling wine house. Rosenberg researched not only Barbe-Nicole early life, marriage to Francois Clicquot, his tragic death, but also Barbe-Nicole's difficulties overcoming his death, making champagne, and the Napoleonic Codes preventing women from owning a business.  Rosenberg fills in the historical facts with dialogue and a writing style that provides insights of personal struggles as well as the geo-political and technological situation of that period. These conditions reverberate to the American historical experience if one contemplates the early 19th century. 

The Champagne region of France is renowned for its sparkling wines. Still, its history is also rich with stories of resilience and innovation, particularly those of remarkable women who transformed the industry. Among these pioneers, the daring widows of Champagne, such as Madame Clicquot and Madame Pommery, played a pivotal role in shaping the modern champagne trade.

The Rise of the Widows
In the 18th and 19th centuries, many women found themselves at the helm of champagne houses after the untimely deaths of their husbands. With limited options, these widows embraced the challenge, often taking on roles that were traditionally reserved for men. Madame Clicquot, for instance, inherited her husband’s champagne house in 1805 and became a trailblazer. She introduced innovative practices, including the riddling process, which clarified champagne, making it clearer and more appealing to consumers.

Breaking Barriers
The contributions of these women extended beyond business acumen; they also challenged societal norms. At a time when women had limited rights and were often marginalized, these widows stepped into leadership roles, demonstrating that they could not only run businesses but excel in them. Their stories highlight the intersection of gender and entrepreneurship in a historical context that is often overlooked.

A Legacy of Innovation
The impact of these pioneering women can still be felt today. The innovations they introduced in production techniques and marketing strategies laid the foundation for the modern champagne industry. The emphasis on quality, branding, and customer experience that they championed continues to influence how champagne is produced and sold.

Sonoma's Breathless Wines was the sponsor for the kickoff event, and have provided their Breathless Brut ($29). This is a blend of 54% Chardonnay, 38% Pinot Noir, 6% Pinot Meunier, and 2% Pinot Blanc made the méthode champenoise -- the secondary fermentation process used by the widow Clicquot and all of Champagne. This is a tight effervescent wine with a savory yeasty and melon profile with a touch of green apple Chardonnay. An even more attractive wine when considering the retail price. 

The Norton Network Launches the Virginia Norton Wine Tour

October is Virginia Wine Month and that coincides with the first-ever Virginia Norton Wine Tour that commences the weekend of October 18 and continues through November 10.  The Norton Network, a collective of Virginia Norton growers, wine producers, and advocates, formulated the tour in order to to highlight the "exceptional qualities of this historically significant native grape across 22 Virginia wineries and vineyards that either grow Norton or feature it prominently in their wines.  Each weekend, participating wineries within a select radius will host events and offer promotions to showcase the diverse expressions of Norton wine — from fruity rosés to bold reds". 

At the BevFluence Baltimore Speakeasy we had a glimpse of the Norton Wine Tour by sampling an array of Norton wines from Horton Vineyards, Chateau MerrillAnne, and Fifty-Third Winery and Vineyard.  This started as a general presentation and tasting to media participants and carried over to a dinner featuring a library tasting showing the age-ability of the Norton grape.  At this dinner of industry professionals we opened the Horton Vineyards 1995, 1999, 2001, and 2010 Norton wines and interestingly all were agreeable with the 1995 and 2010 showing the best integration of acids and velvety chocolate and black fruit. 

Besides its age worthiness, the Speakeasy participants also learned about the grape's history and versatility (see below for short history).  Chateau MerrillAnne believes there is great potential in Norton/Vinifera blends as evident through their 2021 Marquis Rouge. There's great texture, a full mouthfeel, and length to this 50% Norton, 25% Petite Verdot and 25% Tannat blend. We also received a mini-vertical from Fifty-Third Winery and Vineyard of their 2020 Extended Barrel Aged Norton and 2021 Norton (not exactly a vertical - but close).  Not unexpected, the 2020 is tamer (although still acidic) with more rounded fruit and tannins whereas the acidity in the 2021 is more prevalent. Horton Vineyards provided more versatility in the Courage Port (Multiple vintages of Norton Port blended together with a dash of Tannat.).  And being a novice cocktail operative at the Bartender Lab, I took the Courage and added a dash of Bourbon with a pinch of Caramel flavoring. It worked nicely.  Hope to see you on the Norton Wine Tour.

Cocktails with the FIOL Prosecco D.O.C. Extra Dry NV

Recently, we've been thinking of sparkling wine cocktails and gratuitously we received the FIOL Prosecco Extra Dry NV ($19) to get us started. The brand name "FIOL" means "son" in the Venetian dialect but can also refer to a friend or chap. The wine is made in the Prosecco heartland of Treviso where the Glera grape excels in the alluvial and clay-loam soils containing plenty of minerals and micronutrients. Uniquely, the grapes are selected from about 2,300 farmers, accounting for a combined 6,000 hectares (upward of 14,800 acres) of vineyards and multiple terroirs.  After gentle pressing and the initial fermentation, the wine then undergoes 40 days of secondary fermentation in large, pressurized stainless-steel tanks using the Charmat method.  Bottled and poured fresh into the flute, the sparkling wine offers subtle floral notes with green apple, pear, and citrus flavors. Let's look at some cocktails.

Negroni Sbagliato
Want a lighter Negroni, but not lose the gin botanicals. The floral and citrus notes from the FIOL help alleviate the lack of gin while providing a more afternoon friendly libation. 

Equal parts Campari, Sweet Vermouth (The Wine Collective Vermu), FIOL Prosecco

 

French 75
This popular and traditional cocktail is basically gin, lemon juice, simple syrup, and sparkling wine. According to Food & Wine, the first known version of the cocktail was called the Soixante-Quinze. It is said to have been created during World War I around 1915 by a Parisian bartender. With some resemblance to what we know the French 75 to be today, the 1915 version of the Soixante-Quinze was made with gin, lemon, grenadine, applejack brandy, and a bit of water. Since then the cocktail has evolved with different variations on the recipe. It was in 1927, in a cocktail book called Here's How written by Judge Jr., that the French 75 got its contemporary name and a signature splash of Champagne -- although Prosecco works just as well.

• 1 oz. gin (Sipsong Spirits)
• 1/2 oz. fresh lemon juice
• 4 oz. chilled FIOL Prosecco

An Afternoon at Capstone Vineyards

Last week we spent an afternoon on the outskirts of the Shenandoah Valley escaping the heat and humidity and finally visited Capstone Vineyards. This fulfilled a desire from early March after meeting winemaker Theo Smith at the 2024 Virginia's Governor's Cup Gala. The winery was participating because of their Gold medal winning 2022 Vintner's Blend - a Bordeaux styled percentage of 42% Cabernet Franc, 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, and 6% Petit Verdot.

On this visit we started in the tasting room with a flight of the 2023 Sparkling C2, 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, 2023 Chardonnay, and 2016 Vintner's Blend. This last wine raised the property's viticulture status as it was made by Jim Law across Route 66 at Linden Vineyards. When Smith and his partners purchased the property there was an abundant supply of this blend (60% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Petit Verdot) which has aged masterfully in the bottle. The 2016 Vintner's Blend is still fresh with juicy dark fruit and noticeable tannins. The generous staff also allowed us to sample the 2022 Vintner's Blend which is normally off the tasting sheet because of its short supply. Definitely see the aging potential, but our group landed on the 2016 for drinking now. 

The three white wines were all worth noting but the Chardonnay held our fancy until Theo joined us with a glass of their 2023 Rousanne. He told us it was the last fruit picked that season and with smaller than usual berries - the fruit concentration was ideal. Over this glass, Theo also gave us his backstory from biochemistry at Franciscan University to witnessing his first harvest at an Ohio vineyard that peaked his interest that lead to a degree in Viticulture and Oenology at Brock University. He received excellent advice to start his career in a less well-known, but rising wine region which lead to a dozen years at Rappahannock Cellars. Then in late 2022, he and two friends purchased Capstone Vineyards. 

You will be seeing more upcoming content about Capstone Vineyards as we joined the wine club and will be visiting hopefully once a month. We plan on learning more about Theo's contract winemaking as well as his sacramental wine that isn't oxidized. 

2022 Kopke Quinta de São Luiz Vintage Port

"Vintage Port is made from the best grapes in the Douro, typically from the Cima Corgo subregion. The grapes are left to achieve full ripeness before they are picked, vinified and then fortified with high-proof grape spirit. Vintage Port spends a short time aging in barrel – only two to three years – and is bottled, unfiltered, when it is still very dense and full of sediment. This is why Vintage Port's minimum bottle-aging period is considered to be 15 years, and it is often said that no other wine requires as much time in bottle to balance itself. The finest examples are capable of vitality well after 50 years." wine-searcher.com

Port requires appropriate glassware particularly for a vintage port from the oldest port wine house in Douro.  The port is the 2022 Kopke Quinta de São Luiz produced by C. N. Kopke which had its start in 1638.  Two years prior Nicolau Kopkë settled in Portugal as Consul General of the Hanseatic League - a medieval commercial and defensive network of merchant guilds and market towns in Central and Northern Europe that operated between the 13th and 17th centuries. He quickly pivoted to shipping wine from Portugal back home to Hamburg and the North of Europe. This process continued for 150 years when in 1781 the family purchased a vineyard and became a major producer and moved away from wine buying. In 1922, Quinta de São Luiz was acquired and became the place where all Kopke’s DOC Douro wines are produced. 

Quinta de São Luiz is located on the left bank of the Douro River in Tabuaço (140 km away from Porto) at the very heart of the Douro Region. in the Cima Corgo subregion. The vines are planted in schist and sometimes granite soils averaging 400 feet above sea level. Out of the 125 hectares in the estate 90 are planted with vines - most are Old Vines that interspersed fields of Touriga Nacional,  Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca, Tinto Cao, and Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo).

In 2022, the Douro Valley’s old vines withstood extreme heat in addition to a 70% reduction in rainfall, resulting in reduced yields by up to 50%. However, the quality of Ports produced from these ancient vines have excelled as the old vines are better equipped to handle the challenging conditions, with their high drought tolerance and adaptation to hot temperatures. In that year, the hand harvested grapes for the 2022 Kopke Quinta de São Luiz consisted of 33% Touriga Nacional and 67% intermixed Old Vines that were barrel aged for two and a half years.  Samples of the wine was submitted to the Institute of Douro and Porto Wine in January 2024 and the Vintage declaration was exclaimed in June. 

I received a sample and immediately wished I could put it aside for a dozen years, but upon uncorking loved the luscious layers of fruit starting with blackberries, then chocolate covered cherries, tropical fruit, and subtle tannins. I wonder where the sidewalk will end with this treasure. 

Having an open bottle I decided to be adventurous and pair with a cigar. With these pairings the only instructions I recall is to try and match the strength of each. Further research suggested that Vintage Ports with dark fruit and spice notes complement cigars with fruit and spice flavors. Thus, match the flavor profile as well. I chose a mystery cigar simply because it was one of a few that I had and it fortunately included some spices that seemed to elevate the chocolate cherries in the wine. Not a bad way to spend an evening. 

The 2022 Kopke Quinta de São Luiz Vintage Port will be available in the United States this month through Sogevinus Fine Wines.

Pomme and Perry Showcase: Pet-Nat Cider with Farmstead Cider

Pet-Nat cider is a type of sparkling cider that finishes its primary fermentation in the bottle, producing a natural carbonation. It's full name is Pétillant Naturel and is also referred in the wine world as Méthode Ancestrale -- the oldest method of producing sparkling wine. This process involves bottling the wine or cider before it has fully completed its first fermentation, allowing the natural sugars in the juice to produce carbon dioxide. This is a delicate art form since bottling too late results in less effervescence and too early -- possible catastrophe. The ideal result is a softly fizzy, and usually hazy and funky cider from the unfiltered yeast particles.

In the Pomme and Perry Showcase, Jackson Hole Wyoming's Farmstead Cider entered their Teton Pet-Nat ($21). This delicious sparkling cider started with a wild ferment then was bottled just before going dry, producing a beautiful effervescent, hazy, and slightly funky sparkling cider. For a little change of pace we also added a shot of Virago Spirits Cherry Liqueur which elevated the experience -- brought back memories of picking Idaho and Wyoming cherries. 

Farmstead Cider also has an interesting backstory and harvest history as it became the first commercial cidery in Wyoming in over 100 years.  Apparently grizzly bears have been drawn out of Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks into urban communities foraging for apples -- putting them in direct conflict with humans. To mitigate this problem, Farmstead Cider founders Ian McGregor and Orion Bellorado decided to remove the apples and themselves forage the community for various apples.  In the process they have rediscovered "forgotten 150+ year old apple trees, planting new orchards in places where growing apples was thought to be impossible, and teaching people about high altitude farming along the way". Apparently the high altitude and cold winters of Jackson Hole and the rest of Wyoming create excellent cider apples.

Bear photo courtesy of Farmstead Cider.