Grape Spotlight: Mljet Mrkuša & Hazdovac Meleda 2022

Mljet is the southernmost island in Croatia, located between Dubrovnik and the island of Korčula,  It's nickname, the “Green Island”, is derived from the dense forest of Alepski Bor (Aleppo Pine) that extends from the sea’s bed to the highest point of the island. This Aleppo Pine (also known as the Jerusalem Pine) was brought to Mljet before the time of Christ and is conserved through the Mljet National Park.

There are also a few autochthonous grape varieties planted in the northern part of the island near the village of Kozarica and courtesy of the Hazdovac family.  Over a century ago Baldo Hazdovac planted  Kuljenača and Mrkuša vines from land acquired from the Church. Viticulture and winemaking skills were passed down through four generations. About five years ago brothers Baldo, Mateo and Martino, along with their parents Marijo and Pavle, transitioned to a commercial entity: Hazdovac Winery.

I recently tasted their Hazdovac Meleda 2022 ($32) which is available through Croatian Premium Wine Imports.   Online information on the Mrkuša grape is sparse but it can only be found on Mljet - and perhaps only through Hazdovac Winery. Some AI generated searches confuse the grape with Maraštinae, a light-skinned grape variety.  The wine's name Meleda refers to an older name for the island.  The wine shows bright acidity with bright cherry fruit with an herbaceous and lasting finish.