Fox Meadow Winery Cabernet Franc

We try many different wines and sometimes we open one that makes us say, "Wow, that's really good." That happened this week when we opened Fox Meadow Winery's 2002 Cabernet Franc. The wine is medium->full bodied with a nice cherry flavor. But its the finish that does it. The wine moves slowly from the cherry fruit to a spicy - peppery finish - that is not overpowering - it just balances the fruit. This is another example of quality Virginia Cabernet Franc. I'm not sure if the 2002 is still available - but their 2005 is available at the winery - in addition you can take home amazing views of the Blue Ridge Mountains.

National Norton Festival

On Saturday September, we were fortunate to attend the First Annual National Norton Festival in St. Louis Missouri. Organized by the Missouri Wine Country The event provided the general public a chance to sample a wide array of Norton wines from 25 wineries from Missouri, Illinois, Georgia, Texas, and Virginia. This event was the culmination of activities that began in August, at the 2007 National Norton Wine Competition.

We made it a point to visit the Gold medal winners first, and after tasting, agreed with the judges decisions; these were excellent wines. Best in Show Sugar Creek Vineyards & Winery's 2006 Cynthiana was smooth and fruity and somewhat similar to Westphalia Vineyards' 2006 Norton Reserve. Mary Michelle Winery's 2006 Norton was fruity with a little more spiciness at the finish. Bethlehem Valley Vineyards' 2004 Norton and Chrysalis Vineyards' 2005 Barrel Select 100% Virginia Norton and 2004 Locksley Reserve Norton where fruity, but possessed a little more character at the finish. Finally, we tasted the best dessert wine this side of Tokaji, Bommarito Estate Almond Tree Winery's 2002 Missouri Red Port. This may have been our favorite wine of the day.

Besides tasting these wines, we enjoyed tasting wines we normally would not be able to try such as Stone House Vineyards' (TX) 2005 Claros Norton, Tiger Mountain Vineyards' (GA) 2002 Mountain Cynthiana, Mary Michelle Winery's 2006 Illinois Cellars Norton, and Stone Hill Winery's (MO) 2005 Norton, Cross J Vineyards. The last was made from grapes from one of the winery's oldest vineyards. Plus, there were excellent wines from some of our favorite Missouri producers: Crown Valley Winery, Montelle Winery, St. James Winery, Les Bourgeois Winery, Baltimore Bend Winery, Cave Vineyard, Augusta Winery, Hermannhof Winery, Chaumette Vineyards & Winery, and the previously mentioned Stone Hill Winery. We will definitely be planning a trip Herman and Saint Genevieve next year.

We will post pictures and a longer description of this event at Compass Tours and a review of Chrysalis Vineyards and other Virginia Norton producers in the October edition of Virginia Wine Lover.

For those who are familiar with Norton or Cynthiana we strongly recommend this event. For those who have never tasted a Norton, try to find one in your area. You will soon learn why it is referred to as the Cabernet of the Ozarks.

Wine 101 - Chokecherry Wine

Chokeberry was an essential ingredient in the native American diet, either dried for winter use or mixed with fat and buffalo meat in pemmican - a staple of the native Indian’s of the prairie. Wild chokecherries were not only abundant; they are also loaded with nutrition. Chokecherries are a better dietary source of potassium (269mg/100g) than blueberries and strawberries, and contain 4.7g of fiber, 1.5g of protein, and 0.3g of fat per 100g of fruit. Today chokecherries are used to make syrups, jellies, jams, and wine - although winemaking is difficult because the berries are highly acidic and quite tart. Plus the seed accounts for over 50% of the berry’s volume. Despite this trouble and from its winter hardiness it is the fruit of choice for many vintners in the northern United States and Manitoba, Canada.

The first winery to vinify chokecherry commercially and perhaps privately was Prairie Berry Winery in South Dakota. The Vojta family had been creating wine from chokecherry ever since the first family members immigrated to South Dakota from Moravia in the late 1880’s. The recipe was passed to succeeding family members up to the present, where current winemaker Sandi Vojta (the 5th generation) decided to share the family wine. And why not, she grew up knowing how chokecherry wine should taste and was certain the public would accept this unique product. She first, though, had to convince the Alcohol Tobacco and Firearms Agency to allow production of commercial wines from the fruit. Once this was accomplished, other wineries were able to follow suit. Prairie Berry Winery’s “bread and butter” chokeberry wine is their Great Grandma’s Chokecherry, a wine made almost exactly from the original family recipe. This wine is made semi-dry and has a strong fruity flavor. The winery also creates a port-style chokeberry wine in their Great Grandma’s Chokecherry Bliss. In this wine, the chokecherry wine is fortified with cherry Kirsch which produces a great dessert wine. The chokeberries are also blended with grapes to create the Pheasant Reserve and with honey to make Chokecherry Honeywine. The Vojta family deserves our recognition for paving the path for the general public to enjoy this fruit wine.

In neighboring North Dakota, Chokecherry wine is one of Maple River Winery’s top sellers. According to Greg Kempel, Chokecherry wine is popular in North Dakota because “Everyone that grew up in the Midwest on a farm either made or knew someone that made chokecherry wine”. And since traditional vinifera grapes do not fare well in the Dakota’s harsh climate, fruit wines, such as chokecherry, must truly stand out to grab the public’s attention. Maple River Winery’s version is semi-sweet and they recommend serving with red meat dishes. Even though the wine is popular locally, the winery is seeking to alleviate the national "Grape" obstacle, i.e. the belief that all quality wine is produced from grapes. Mr. Kempel sees that, “with education, our chokecherry wine is gaining tremendous popularity...even in wine country”.

Further west, in Mt. Pleasant Utah, Native Wines specializes in creating wines from wild fruit. Chokecherry is one of their products, not only from its flavor, but also from its healthy side effects. Each year the winery sends samples of their red wines to a laboratory for antioxidant testing and chokecherry wine always tests near the top in its antioxidant scores. Chokecherry also has a long tradition in Utah, from the Native Americans and early pioneers to the present. Mr. Bob Sorenson, Native Wines owner\winemaker, says that many middle-aged and elderly customers are pleasantly surprised to find Chokecherry wine available. Mr. Sorenson’s Chokecherry wine is rather unique in that he adds a few pits of the fruit, which creates a “warm spicy/nutty” aspect to the flavor. He admits that since the pits contain a certain amount of cyanide some people may be worried about drinking the wine. However, Mr. Sorenson reply’s that “many old recipes include the nuts of the stone fruits and as long as the products are consumed in reasonable quantities there will be no adverse effect”. We for one will take him at his word and look forward to trying his version of Chokecherry wine.

Traveling north into Manitoba Canada, D.D. Leobard Winery started making Chokecherry wine in 2005 after three years of trials. The winery is located in Winnipeg and specializes in producing wines from locally grown or wild fruit. Their Chokecherry wine is made from wild berries and made off dry, with a strong cherry flavor. Although the wine has been well received by critics (it was awarded a bronze medal at the 2006 All Canadian Wine Championships) it has been demanding to produce commercially. First, the winery has found it troublesome to find someone to pick their supply of wild berries. Second, Chokecherry wine is difficult to produce. The berries are small and initially highly acidic and quite tart. The winemaker must reduce these properties while simultaneously extract the natural cherry flavor of the fruit. Finally, although Chokecherry wine is very popular in Manitoba, it is difficult to sell because of this popularity. Many people either make their own Chokecherry wine or know some family member or friend who makes it; thus, according to Denis d'Eschambault, one of the winery’s co-owners, “why pay for it!”

Chokecherry wine is produced by a little over a dozen wineries in North America, most likely from wild berries and family recipes. The styles range from the semi-dry version offered by Colorado Cellars Winery to the sweet, port-style Chokecherry wine offered by the Lil' Ole Winemaker Shoppe in Wisconsin. We are certain, regardless of the style, that the majority of wine consumers will appreciate this wine, once the opportunity to taste one, presents itself.

September Wine Festivals

The Wine-Compass.com event database contains over 1,441 upcoming events in the United States and Canada. For those looking for wine festivals in September, here is a short list of events in several states:

Arkansas
Weinfest - Chateux Aux Arc :September 28^th-30^th
Wiederkehr Village Weinfest - Wiederk Wine Cellars: September 29^th

British Columbia
Okanagan Fall Wine Festival – Okanagan: September 29^th-October 7^th

California
Millbrae Art and Wine Festival – Millbrae: September 1^st-2^nd
26th Annual Harvest Wine Celebration - Livermore Valley Winegrowers Association: September 2^nd-3^rd
L.A. County Fair – Los Angeles: September 7^th-30^th
Mountain View Art and Wine Festival - Mountain View: September 8^th-9^th
West Fest 2007 - Hwy 46 West Wineries: September 8^th
Lodi Grape Festival and Harvest Festival - Lodi-Woodbridge Winegrape
Commission: September 13^th-16^th
Santa Clara Art and Wine Festival - Santa Clara: September 15^th-16^th
Lafayette Art & Wine Festival - Lafayette: September 15^th-16^th
Paso Robles Taste of Downtown - Paso Robles: September 15^th
Art Bark Fest - Animal Art, Wine & Music Festival - Olympic Valley: September 15^th-16^th
5th Annual Montclair Jazz & Wine Festival – Montclair Village: September 16^th
American Wine & Food Festival – Los Angeles: September 29^th

Colorado
16th Annual Colorado Mountain Winefest - Palisade: September 13^th-16^th
Great American Beer Festival – Denver: September 28^th-30^th

Florida
6th Annual Miami Intl Wine Fair – Miami: September 8^th-10^th
Epcot Int'l Food & Wine Festival - Lake Buena Vista: September 28^th-November 11^th

Georgia
Wine South Atlanta - Atlanta: September 28^th-30^th

Illinois
Windy City Wine Festival – Chicago: September 7^th-8^th
Naperville Wine Festival – Naperville: September 14^th-15^th
Festival of the Vine – Geneva: September 14^th-16^th
Illinois Wine Festival – North – Chicago: September 29^th-30^th

Maine
4th Annual Lakes Brew Fest - Casco: September 29^th

Maryland
Deep Creek Lake Art & Wine Festival - McHenry: September 8^th
The Maryland Wine Festival – Westminster: September 15^th-16^th
2007 Wine Fest at the Beach – Ocean City: September 28^th-29^th

Michigan
Hopps of Fun Beer & Wine Festival - Mackinaw City: September 7^th-8^th
Annual Wine At The Harbor - Pentwater: September 8^th

Minnesota
Minnesota Wine & Food Festival - Carlos Creek Winery: September 7^th-9^th

Missouri
The National Norton Wine Festival – St. Louis: September 8^th
St. Louis Wine Festival – St. Louis: September 28^th-29^th

New Jersey
"Jazz it Up" - Allaire: September 1^st-2^nd
Annual Cape May Food and Wine Festival – Cape May: September 18^th-23^rd
Great Grapes – Princeton: September 22^nd-23^rd

New Mexico
Wine and Lifestyle Expo - Balloon Fiesta Park, Albuquerque: August 31^st-Sept 2^nd
Santa Fe Wine and Chile Festival – Santa Fe: September 26^th-30^th

New York
Saratoga Wine & Food Festival – Saratoga: September 6^th-8^th
Hudson Valley Wine & Food Festival – Red Hook: September 8^th-9h

North Carolina
Third Annual North Carolina Muscadine Harvest Festival – Kenansville: September 28^th-29^th

Nova Scotia
Third Annual Autumn Food and Wine Festival - Gaspereau Vineyards : September 22^nd-23^rd

Oklahoma
Grape & Wine Festival - Slaughterville: September 28^th

Ontario
Shores of Erie International Wine Festival – Amherstburg: September target="new"7^th-9^th
Niagara Wine Festival – Niagara: September 21^st-30^th

Pennsylvania
Gettysburg Wine & Music Festival – Gettysburg: September 8^th-9^th
Wine Country Harvest Festival – North East: September 28^th-30^th
2007 Harvest Festival – Brandywine Valley Wine Trail: September 29^th-30^th

Rhode Island
Newport Mansions Wine and Food Festival – Newport: September 27^th-29^th

South Carolina
Groovin' in the Grapes Harvest Fest - La Belle Amie Vineyard: September 8^th
Autumn Magic Blues & Jazz Fest - La Belle Amie Vineyard: September 22^nd

Texas
21st Annual GrapeFest - Grapevine: September 13^th-16^th

Virginia
Discover Virginia Food and Wine Festival – Ruckersville: September 1^st
Herndon Jazz and Wine Festival – Herndon: September 3^rd
13th Annual Rockbridge Wine Festival – Lexington: September 8^th-11^th
Annual Neptune Festival Wine Tasting – Virginia Beach: September 15^th-16^th
19th Annual Smith Mountain Lake Wine Festival – Moneta: September 29^th-30^th

Washington
Lake Chelan Wine Festival - Lake Chelan: September 15^th
Kiwanis Wine Country Trek – Yakima: September 29^th-30^th

Wisconsin
Lake Geneva Wine Festival - Lake Geneva: September 6^th-9^th

Cove Point Winery

Frequent readers of the Wine Compass Blog, Compass Tours, and Wine 101 are familiar with our fascination with different grape varieties. They would also appreciate our yearning to visit a winery that makes wine from over twenty different grapes - in this case, Cove Point Winery. The winery started like most small family owned wineries – as a hobby – that gradually progressed to a commercial venture. This winery is still so small that the tasting occurs in the proprietor’s kitchen – just like hanging at a friend’s house. However, small does not describe the amount of wines or their quality.

Cove Point Winery produces over twenty wines from viniferia, native labrusca, and hybrid grapes. We were able to taste some of our favorite lesser known varieties are included, such as Blaufrankisch (Lemberger), Symphony, Isabella, Landot Noir, De Chaunac, and Chancellor, to name a few. At this tasting, I concentrated on their semi-dry white and dry red wines. Plus their port. I started with perhaps their best wine, the semi-dry Symphony, a cross between Muscat of Alexandria and Grenache Gris. The wine has the fragrance of a Muscat and the fruitiness of the Grenache. Throw in a refreshing acidity and you have a great drinking wine. Next was the Isabella, or sipping wine, as it is marketed. This wine doesn’t have the heavy foxiness normally associated with labrusca grapes – but possesses the grapiness of the fruit. This wine may not be for everyone – but for those who like labrusca made wine – this is an excellent version. I next tried their Riesling and Gewürztraminer, both contained the aromas and flavors you would expect from these grapes. Their Cayuga White was also very typical of that variety – although they do an excellent job extracting the flavors of the Riesling parent. I ended the semi-dry tasting as I started, with one of my favorite choices – the Peach Chardonnay. This is a blend of Peach wine and Chardonnay wine, where the chardonnay provides a fruit forward grape flavor and the peaches provide a lasting finish. Of all the fruit wines, I usually avoid the peach, but this wine is a perfect blend.

We moved on the reds, where I tried one of my favorite red viniferia grapes, Blaufrankisch. This wine is full-bodied with string black berry flavors. The finish is only slightly spicy – unlike the heavily-oaked Austrian styles. This is a great wine, both for dinner and sipping. I then tried their Pinot Noir, a medium bodied wine that had cherry flavors and a finish as smooth as the Blaufrankisch. I still preferred the Blaufrankisch. They were pouring two vintages of their Cabernet Sauvignon, a 2004 and 2005. The 2004 was a little spicier, whereas the 2005 was more fruit forward. I still preferred the Blaufrankisch. The final red was the Very-Berry Port - a Port blend of Chancellor and Landot Noir fermented with Blackberries and Raspberries and aged in French oak. These were obtained in nearby St. Mary’s County, which is fast becoming a valuable resource in the Maryland wine industry. The port has an amazing nose – where the aromas move generously into the cherry flavors and last into the tail. Besides having the opportunity to purchase a wine with Chancellor and Landot Noir, the wine is well worth the price.

Not only does Cove Point Winery make excellent wine from dozens of grapes, but they are minutes away from several of southern Maryland’s best tourist attractions. I’m referring to Calvert Cliffs, Cove Point Lighthouse -Maryland's oldest operational lighthouse – and Solomons Island. Each is worth a visit, singularly, and as a group along with Cove Point Winery.

Mountain Cove Vineyards

While travelling home from North Carolina, I stopped at Virginia’s oldest winery, Mountain Cove Vineyards. Located half way between Lynchburg and Charlottesville, the winery is situated within the Blue Ridge Mountains and adjacent to the Fortunes Cove Preserve, a large Nature Conservancy property. In 1973, Al and Emily Weed planted several varieties of hybrid grapes on their property and began selling wine commercially a few years later. In 1997 they re-planted most of the vineyard with viniferia Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Muscat; Norton; and the hybrids, Chambourcin, Villard Blanc and Traminette.

I started with the Tinto, a blend of Norton and Cabernet Franc. The wine is dry, medium-bodied and extremely smooth. The Cabernet Franc introduces a cherry flavor that moderates the grapey flavor of the Norton. This is an excellent blend. Next was the Mountain Cove Chardonnay, a dry wine made from grapes grown from the eastern slopes of the Blue Ridge in Bedford County. The wine was aged partly in stainless steel and partly in oak - which produced a refreshing wine with a silky finish. Mountain Cove offers two semi-dry wines – the Skyline White and the Skyline Rose. The Skyline White is a blend of Villard Blanc, Chardonnay, Vidal Blanc, and Muscat made in the Vouvray style (think of Loire Chenin Blanc). The Skyline Rose is basically the Skyline White blend with Norton added for color and CO2 added in the bottle. This provides a nice acidic feeling on the tongue. Both these wines are refreshing, great sellers, and perfect for an afternoon in Mountain Cove. Finally, I tried their two fruit wines, Blackberry and Apple. The Apple wine is made from Winesap apples harvested from neighboring Mountain Cove Orchard. The apples are prevalent from the aroma to the finish. CO2 is also added in the bottle, giving the wine a bit of a sparkling-wine feel. The Blackberry wine is slightly sweeter, but not gritty. It has a full blackberry flavor – just like shoving the fruit into your mouth when picking directly from the vine. But this time, no worries about staining your fingers or clothes.

Mountain Cove is a great attraction – from the views of the surrounding mountains to the excellent wines – made from local fruit. The winery is only a short drive from Charlottesville and only a few couple of hours from Washington D.C. and Richmond. I hope to visit again in the fall, maybe during their October Blues Festival, to hike the Fortunes Cove Preserve.

You can view pictures of the winery at the Compass Tours section of wine-compass.com.

A Secret Garden & Chatham Hill Winery

This past weekend I was able to visit two very good, but completely different wineries near Raleigh, North Carolina. The first, A Secret Garden Winery, is located a few mile east of Route 95, in rural Pikesville. The winery makes organic muscadine wines, from grapes grown in their local vineyard - just across the street from where the proprietor, Linda Hall was born and raised. Along with her husband, Gerald, she has turned a family hobby into a small, but growing winery. Not only do the Hall's not use pesticides, but they do not add sulfite or yeast to the wines. Instead, the Carlos and Noble grapes are allowed to ferment naturally. The winery offers several dry to sweet wines, and my favorite was right in the middle: the semi-dry Golden Harvest made from Carlos grapes at 2.5% r.s. This wine wasn't too sweet and allowed the grapey flavor of the muscadine to flow from the nose to the tail.

I then traveled along route 70 to Raleigh in order to visit Chatham Hill Winery. This winery is one of the increasing number of urban wineries, in this case, the owners purchase grapes from various vineyards and vinify the wine in an industrial warehouse in the city's suburbs. In fact, the winery is located less than a mile from Raleigh's beltway and a steady stream of visitors attested to the accommodating location. Chatham Hill makes several styles of wines from full-bodied vinifera wines to fruit wines. The winery purchases 80% of their grapes from North Carolina vineyards, and only supplements these grapes when local sources are not available. Thus, the Zinfandel, Syrah, Pinot Grigio, and Riesling are purchased outside the state - from California. At this tasting I tried four of their whites and liked the 2005 Chardonnay the best. The wine was aged half in steel and half in oak which produced a silky, slightly buttery wine, but one with a nice, refreshing acidity. Chatham Hill's reds were even better; the 2005 Merlot has a full cherry flavor sandwiched between a spicy nose and finish. The 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2005 Zinfandel were also smooth, with strong berry aromas and smooth finishes. Finally, I tried a very interesting a refreshing fruit wine, the Sweet Carolina Pomegranate. The wine is not especially sweet, but the tart finish is very refreshing. Imaging eating cherries, then granny smith apples. I am truly jealous of the Raleigh resident's who can try and purchase excellent wines right in their backyard.

We will have more information and pictures of these trips in our Compass Tours section of Wine-compass.com.

2007 National Norton Competition Winners

Today, the winners of the 2007 First Annual Norton Competition were announced with Missouri's Sugar Creek Winery & Vineyards winning Best in Show and Best of Class – Dry Norton. Bommarito Estate Almond Tree Winery, also from Missouri, won Best of Class – Port Norton for their 2002 Missouri Red Port. A handful of other wineries were awarded Gold medals. Virginia's Chrysalis Vineyards won two golds, one with their 2005 Barrel Select 100% Virginia Norton and the other for their 2004 Locksley Reserve Norton. Mary Michelle Winery was the other non-Missouri winery to win Gold, this from their 2006 Illinois Norton. The other gold medals were awarded to Missouri's Bethlehem Valley Vineyards, Sugar Creek Vineyards & Winery, and Westphalia Vineyards.

In total 67 wines were awarded medals, representing Norton produced in ten states. Predictably Missouri made Norton won the majority of medals, followed by Norton's native state Virginia. But other states were well represented. Every Kansas winery that entered a wine were awarded medals, with Holy-Field Winery winning two and Kugler's Vineyard and Davenport Winery winning Bronze medals. Spirit Knob Winery and Piasa Winery joined Mary Michelle Winery as Illinois medal winners and neighboring French Lick Winery, from Indiana won Bronze for their 2002 Heaven's View Port. Finally, medals were awarded to our friends at Hinnant Family Vineyards (NC), Tiger Mountain Vineyards (GA), Summerside Vineyards (OK), and Stone House Winery (TX). Congratulations to all.

We look forward to attending the grand tasting on September 8th to try several of these medal winning wines. And check back later for more articles on the Missouri and Virginia winners.

Target® Wine Cubes

At a recent birthday party, the hosts served Target® Wine Cubes, produced exclusively for Target® by Trinchero Family Estates. These wines are made from California grown grapes and the offerings consist of Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio, and a Cabernet/Shiraz. We had the Cabernet/Shiraz, a 50/50 blend that was really good - a dry, full bodied wine with berry flavors and a slightly spicy finish. In the past the major advantages of boxed wines has been their convenience and price: Wine Cubes are currently available in two sizes: 3-liter (4 bottle equivalent) for $15 and 1.5-liter (2 bottle equivalent) for $10. But as the quality of these wines improve, they are becoming much more competitive to their bottled cousins. And Trinchero has come full circle from their Sutter Home heritage - producing bulk wines close to the quality of their Napa Reserve wines.

Chrysalis Vineyards - Norton

One of the participants of this week's Norton competition is Virginia's Chrysalis Vineyards, the largest grower of Norton in the world. Jennifer McCloud, the owner of Chrysalis, intends to "restore Norton to its position of eminence among fine wines". In doing so, the winery offers several types of Norton, from the whole clustered Sarah's Patio Red to their flagship wine - Locksley Reserve. In between, Chrysalis also produces an estate bottled as well as a barrel select Norton. The 2003 Chrysalis Vineyards Norton - Estate Bottled is our everyday table wine - full of grape flavors - and with a smooth finish. Their Norton - Barrel Select is a bit smokier with a heavier finish. Finally, their Locksley Reserve is the best, but a bit pricey at $35 a bottle. The grapes are grown from the home vineyards at Locksley Estate. The result: a strong grapey flavor balanced with a smooth smoky finish. I recently spent an hour at the winery savoring and analyzing every taste of this wine. Chrysalis should be very competitive this week.

Wine 101 - Ortega

“The purveyor of mostly forgettable plonk.” This is how renowned wine critic Anthony Gismondi once described the British Columbia wine industry. Protected by legislation from international competition and cultivating mostly Vitis Lubrusca and hybrid grapes, wine produced in British Columbia were considered poor alternatives to European and American wines. However, after the implementation of NAFTA and GATT, Canadian wine producers where forced to improve their wine's quality in order to survive in this new environment. Today, British Columbia wines are considered world-class, particularly newly planted Vitis Vinifera varieties.

The first instances of wine-making in British Columbia occurred when Oblate missionaries, who settled in the Okanagan Valley in the mid 1800s, cultivated grapes for sacramental wine. These were Vitis Labrusca and Vitis Riparia grapes since Vitis Vinifera vines usually succumbing to diseases induced by hot, humid summers and severely low winter temperatures. For the next 100 years, the Canadian and British Columbian wine industry was focused around these grapes as well as any hybrids that good withstand the Canadian environment. Whereas the number of smaller wineries had increased through prohibition – because the law allowed producing wine for personal use – the number of wineries decreased sharply after Prohibition as the industry consolidated and provinces restricted the establishment of new wineries. In the mid 1970s, the provinces relented and began to issue new licenses to produce and sell wine. The number of new wineries increased dramatically, however, protected against foreign competition, the quality of the wine remained poor. After the passage of GATT and NAFTA treaties, the wine industry undertook a major program to replace native grape varieties with vinifera grapes. New investments in technology and updated wine techniques have allowed these wine makers to produce world class vinifera wines.

However one hybrid that survived the transition to vinifera grapes is Ortega, a cross between the German Muller Thurgau and Siegerrebe. It was originally developed to enhance the quality of Riesling in poor vintages in the Rheinhessen region in Germany. Since the grape possesses the ability to excel in cold-winter conditions, it has been successfully grown in British Columbia, and with limited success in a couple of eastern provinces. This grape produces rich, flowery, peachy wines, with high natural sugar levels.

One B.C. winery that cultivates Ortega is Recline Ridge Vineyard and Winery, a family-owned and operated winery which is located in the heart of the Shuswap Lake area of British Columbia. Mike Smith, the winery’s owner-operator, lists several factors that persuaded him to vinify Ortega. First, the grape is extremely winter hardy and actually develops better character in the cooler zones. In warmer environments the grape ripens too early to develop proper character. Second, Ortega’s parent grape, Siegerrebe, is very aromatic and flavorful and these characteristics are passed down to its “offspring”. And finally, Ortega generally provides good yields per acre – so the grape is very cost affective. Recline Ridge’s Ortega has been well received by the Canadian wine public – it is the winery’s second best white wine seller. In addition, the 2002 vintage won a Bronze medal at the 2005 Northwest Wine Summit after the 2001 vintage wine "Peoples Choice" award and "Best White Wine" at the 2004 Kamloops Wine Festival. Mr. Smith attributes Ortega’s success to the Shuswap Lake terrior, in which he believes provides the conditions necessary to yield the greatest flavor potential. In addition to having a great taste, Ortega wine is very versatile wine with regards to the food it complements. Mr. Smith notes that Ortega finds many friends on the patio in summer with sea foods and cheeses or a crisp fruit salad, the kitchens and dinning rooms presenting a spicy curry dish, Cajun chicken, and Chinese food or simply to quench the thirst of a group of friends around a beach fire and a pot of Dungeness crab.

One of the first wineries to emerge after the British Columbia province began to issue commercial license to produce wine was Domaine de Chaberton Estates. The winery is located very close to the Washington border in the Fraser Valley and was started by Claude Violet, a ninth generation French wine maker. Today, it is the 4th largest estate winery in B.C. The winery cultivates Ortega because of the favorable climate conditions and they enjoy favor. They produce two types of Ortega wine, a vintage wine that tastes similar to a Muscat flavor wine and a Botrytis affected dessert wine that resembles a Sauternes wine. Sometimes called Noble Rot, Botrytis is a mold that causes grapes to lose nearly all of their water content – but not the sugar. The result: an extremely concentrated and sweet grape juice with honeyed, aromatic characteristics. Both wines have been accepted by the general public and wine officials: they have won over 30 medals\awards throughout the years, most notably a Silver Medal at Vinandino '97, an O.I.V. competition held in Mendoza Argentina.

Finally, Zanatta Winery, cultivates Ortega not only because it is reliable, excels in their climate, and is resistant to disease, but more importantly, because they like the wine. They have found that translating their appreciation of the grape to the general public has been a long and slow process. People are reluctant to buy what they do not know and a common question they hear is “Is it like Chardonnay?” Over time, as wine drinkers become more daring, this question will no longer be raised.

August Wine Festivals

The Wine-Compass.com event database contains over 1,980 upcoming events in the United States and Canada. For those looking for wine festivals in August, here is a short list of events in several states:

California
Vine 2 Wine - Temecula Valley Winegrowers Association: August: 4^th
15th Annual Winemakers' Celebration - Custom House Plaza, Monterey: August 11^th
Celebrate Milpitas! - Milpitas Boulevard at Calaveras Boulevard: August 18^th-19^th
Mammoth Wine & Jazz Festival - Mammoth: August 18^th
Bodega Seafood, Art and Wine Festival - Bodega: August 25^th-26^th

Colorado
Boulder Wine Festival - Downtown Boulder: August 12^th
10th Annual Wine, Jazz, and Art Festival – Keystone: August 25^th
Denver Food and Wine Classic - Pepsi CenterGrounds: August 26^th

Georgia
Corks & Forks - A Fine Food and Wine Event - Atlanta: August 25^th-26^th

Idaho
4th Annual Idaho Wine Festival - Boise: August 25^th

Illinois
Taste of Roselle – Roselle: August: 3^rd-5^th
Illinois Wine Festival - South: August 25^th-26^th

Indiana
Vevay Wine Festival – Vevay: August 23^rd-26^th

Iowa
Iowa Wine & Beer Festival - Indianola: August 25^th

Maryland
Crossin Into Cuuntry - Linganore Wine Cellars: August 12^th-13^th
18th Annual Wine, Jazz & Art Festival – Fiore Winery: August 18^th-19^th

Michigan Leelanau Peninsula Food & Wine Festival - Northport at the Harbor: August 11^th
Vin Voyage - Oakland County Int'l Airport: August 25^th
Wine & Food Festival - Rochester Hills: August 25^th-26^th
Wine Days of Summer - Pioneer Wine Trail Wineries: August 25^th-26^th

Mississippi
Natchez Food and Wine Festival - Natchez: August 3^rd-5^th

New Jersey
Jersey Fresh Wine & Food Festival - Pennington: August 11^th-12^th

New Mexico
Wine and Lifestyle Expo - Balloon Fiesta Park, Albuquerque: August 31^st-Sept 2^nd

New York
Benmarl’s 50th Anniversary - Benmarl Winery & Vineyard: August 18^th
45th Anniversary - Dr. Konstantin Frank's Vinifera Wine Cellars: August 26^th

Ohio
Vintage Ohio Wine Festival - Kirtland, Ohio: August 3^rd-4^th

Pennsylvania
Seven Springs Mountain Resort Wine & Food Festival - Seven Springs Mountain Resort: August 25^th-26^th

South Carolina
Whole Lotta Shakin' Oldies Music Fest - La Belle Amie Vineyard: August 18^th

Texas
2007 Harvest Wine Trail - Texas Hill Country Wineries: August 17^th-19^th
2007 Harvest Wine Trail - Texas Hill Country Wineries: August 24^th-26^th

Virginia
Tarara's 7th Annual Blackberry Days Wine Festival - Leesburg: August 4^th-5^th
Beach Party Wine Festival - James River Cellars: August 4^th-5^th
Black Dog Wine and Jazz Festival - Chateau Morrisette: August 11^th
Wine, Cider, and Mead on the Blue Ridge Wine Trail - AmRhein Wine Cellers: August 25^th-26^th

Washington
Prosser Wine & Food Fair – Prosser: August 11^th
Taste of Hood Canal - Downtown Belfair: August 11^th
Leavenworth Wine Tasting Festival – Leavenworth: August 18^th

2007 National Norton Wine Festival

In September, MissourWineCountry.com is hosting the first National Norton Wine Festival in St. Louis Missouri. The festival consists of a tasting competition held August 4th and a general tasting of 25 of the top Norton producers on September 8th. The results of the tasting competition will be announced the night before the general tasting and at the general tasting there will also be an opportunity to taste vertical Norton offerings for those who purchase a Norton VIP. The sponsors invited Norton producers from 12 states to the competition and currently there are 93 wines entered, representing 43 wineries from 10 states. Not a bad turnout. These wines will be judged by eight highly respected wine experts, such as Doug Frost (one of only three individuals who passed the Master Sommelier and Master of Wine examinations) and Bob Foster (Chief Judge of the Riverside International Wine Competition).

I am very interested to see how the east coast Norton fairs against the Midwestern wines. While traveling to the Midwest last year I became a huge fan of Kansas and Missouri Norton - such as Davenport Winery, Kugler's Vineyard, Holy-Field Winery, Stone Hill Winery, Röbller Vineyard Winery, Mount Pleasant Winery, St. James Winery, Stonehaus Farms, and Augusta Winery. There are dozens more Norton producers that I haven't tasted spread throughout Missouri, Illinois, Indiana, and Arkansas. Many of these wineries will be participating in the competition. From the east coast, New Jersey's Valenzano Winery is sending their Cynthiana which won the NJ Governors two years in a row. Most of Virginia's Norton producers have entered; the country's largest Norton grower Chrysalis Vineyards, Rappahannock Cellars, Cooper Vineyards, The Winery at La Grange, Veramar Vineyard, Keswick Vineyards, and Horton Vineyards. I've tasted the Norton from all these Virginia producers and believe they will be very competitive. Finally, several smaller Norton producers are also participating, including Jones Cabin Run Vineyards (West Virginia), Grove Winery (North Carolina), and Crane Creek Vineyards (Georgia).

We will post the results of the competition when they become available and look forward to trying several of these wines at the general tasting.

Fruit Wine Article

There is a good article called Ripe Time for Fruit Wine published in the San Francisco Chronicle. Author, Derrick Schneide, briefly describes the history of fruit wines in the United States, the difficulties producing quality fruit wine, and highlights a few wineries: Hawaii's Tedeschi Vineyards, Illinois' Lynfred Winery, and California's Bargetto Winery. It's nice to see a California publication printing an article that includes wineries in other states.

Potomac Point Winery

On Saturday, July 14th we attended the second day of Potomac Point Winery's three day Grand Opening event. The winery is located in Stafford County Virginia and currently offers a wide range of excellent wines from grapes grown mostly in Orange County Virginia. There are wines for everyone. Their Norton, Viognier (gold medal), Vidal Blanc dessert wine, and Cabernet Franc are great examples of how these grapes thrive in Virginia. They also offer excellent Bordeaux, Italian, and Portuguese styled red wines, as well as a gold winning Chardonnay. These wines are impressive and for an initial release, outstanding. The winery itself is also impressive with meticulously designed metalwork throughout the Mediterranean-style building. This building is worth a visit itself - let alone the desire to "hang out" for a few hours. You can red the full account of our visit at Compass Tours.

IronWine

Here's a completely new concept. Wine in a can. Yes, that's right, wine in a can. Produced by a Dutch company, Horeca Europe International (HEI), IronWine is made from Argentinian grapes and there are currently two offerings: a Chenin Blanc and a Malbec\Cabernet Sauvignon blend. Worried about tasting the can that happens with some lite beers? The cans contain a liner that separates the can's interior and the wine. HEI markets the wine to those "on the go" - for picnics, hiking, or for those just interested in a single serving such as business travelers. Ironwine is currently being served in the Buenos Aires Hilton and Sheraton hotels. What do you think? Would you buy a can?

New Jersey Governor's Cup

While browsing the Garden State Wine Growers Association website, I noticed that they had posted the winners of the 2007 Governor's Cup competition. Congratulations are in order to Unionville Vineyards and Alba Vineyard for winning the Governor's Cup for their Unionville's NV Port and Alba's Blueberry wine and Chambourcin wine. According to the winery, the Unionville Port "...was produced from Marechal Foch (92%) and Chambourcin (8%) grapes. Aged grape brandy was added to stop fermentation and to bring the alcohol level up to 18.5%. After pressing, the wine was left to age quietly for at least three years in old oak barriques. This traditional dessert wine tastes of ripe raisins with hints licorice and dark cherries.".

Last year we visited Alba Vineyard and posted a review here. In short we loved their wines and location; their Delaware Dolce was our favorite. The are now recipients of two Governors Cup medals, one for their Blueberry wine and one for their 2005 Chambourcin. The chambourcin "is a good example of this grape's potential in our New Jersey vineyards. It exhibits strawberry and Bing cherry nuances in the perfumed aroma and rich flavors. Aging in small oak barrels gives this wine attractive overtones of mocha, vanilla and roasted nuts. Serve with full flavored dishes; we especially like it with grilled beef or roasted lamb." The Blueberry wine "is produced from only the highest quality fresh berries and fermented in a way that maximizes color and flavor concentration. No grape juice, flavoring, or distilled spirits are used. It is delicious as a dessert wine or it can be served as an aperitif or a fruit wine cordial."

Finally, another of our favorite New Jersey wineries, Silver Decoy Winery, was named winery of the year. We hope to be able to taste these wines the weekend of August 11/12 at the Jersey Fresh Wine & Food Festival.

Yadkin Valley Wine Bar - Charlotte Airport

This past weekend, while wondering between concourses at the Charlotte Airport, I came upon the Yadkin Valley Wine Bar. The wine bar is sponsored by the Yadkin Valley Winegrowers Association and carries the wines of Hanover Park Vineyard, RagApple Lassie Vineyards, RayLen Vineyards, Round Peak Vineyards, Shelton Vineyards, Stony Knoll Vineyards, and Westbend Vineyards. I was relieved to seeing the wine bar, because I was treading spending an hour at the food court, or a crowded restaurant, or at the gate. There was a wide array of wines available from dry Cabs to Chardonnays to Blush wines. I decided on two chardonnay wines, Stony Knoll's 2003 Chardonnay and RayLen's Barrel Chardonnay. Stony Knoll's Chardonnay was aged 10 months in French oak which provides the buttery finish - but the chardonnay fruit is still prevalent. RayLen's Chardonnay was very similar with even a stronger buttery finish. I was tempted to purchase a few bottles, but was already loaded down with carry on items. The wine bar does make it easy to ship wine; they will pay the shipping for orders over a case. Not a bad idea. And I no longer tread extended layovers in Charlotte.

L.A. Cetto Vineyards

On a recent trip to southern California, I stumbled upon an awesome wine shop in the middle of San Diego's GasLight District: The Wine Bank. The retailer had a large selection of domestic wines, but an even more interesting collection of Mexican tequilas and wine. One of the largest selections of Mexican wines was from L.A. Cetto Vineyards. The winery is located in Col. Lomas de Chapultepec, but the grapes are harvested from vineyards located in the Guadalupe, San Vicente, and Redondo valleys - all in Baja California. L.A. Cetto produces a wide variety of vinifera wines, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Chenin Blanc, and Nebbiolo. Interestingly, all of their wines had won awards in International Competitions and I decided to purchase a bottle of their Nebbiolo Private Reserve after seeing that in 2005 it had won Gold and the Best Red Wine Trophy at the Vinalies Internationales in Paris. The wine was made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes grown in the Guadalupe Valley. The wine was aged a year in French oak and then two additional years in the bottle. The result: an incredibly smooth wine with a vanilla nose, a strong cherry flavor, and a smooth balanced finish. At $15, this wine was also an amazing bargain. For those living on the east coast, I am searching for an east coast retailer that carries L.A. Cetto's wines. I will let you know when I find one.

Wine 101 - Mustang

Texas is a grape paradise? Yes, insist many Texas wine growers. And considering that the state currently produces over 50% of the known species of grape in the world, they may be right.

When Spanish missionaries arrived in Texas in the 1600’s, wild grapes were flourishing in the Texas countryside. By 1650, Father Garcia de San Fancisco y Zuniga, the father of present day El Paso, had begun cultivating Spanish black grape (Lenoir) into sacramental wine. During the next hundred years, the wine industry surrounding El Paso expanded as a result of irrigation projects developed by the Franciscan's. However, the Texas wine industry deteriorated in the early 1800’s because of the failure to increase the wine’s quality and the outbreak of the war with Mexico. In the late 1800’s the region received a large influx of European immigrants who brought with them wine making skills handed down by distant generations. These immigrants then started to vinify the local grapes that inhabited the region. One of these grapes still cultivated today is the Mustang grape.

The Mustang Grape belongs to the Vitis Mustangensis species of grape and grows wild throughout Texas and can also be found in northern Mexico, Oklahoma, Arkansas, Louisiana, Mississippi, and Alabama. Mustang grapes are very acidic, tart and according to Mustang expert Jack Keller, “almost impossible to eat with any degree of enjoyment.” Because of these characteristics, making wine from Mustang grapes is extremely challenging. Many are surprised that it is even possible to produce quality wine from this grape.

As European immigrants entered Texas in larger numbers, wine making expanded throughout the state. At the same time, T.V. Munson, a horticulturist from Illinois arrived in Texas, an event which changed wine history. Mr. Munson was a renowned expert on grape species and he developed numerous grape hybrids suitable for the Texas environment. After phylloxera destroyed more than 6 million acres of vineyards, the French wine industry requested Munson to send rootstock developed during his studies, where it was grafted with European vinifera. Munson's work along with another horticulturist, Hermann Jaeger, helped to save the European wine industry.

As the end of the 19th century approached, wine making was succeeding in most Texas regions. In 1883, the Qualia family established Val Verde Winery, growing Spanish black grape. The winery is the oldest continuing operating winery in Texas today. At the same time the wine industry was slowly perishing in El Paso. Nature played a part with numerous extended wet and dry periods. Economics also had a part; it became more profitable to raise truck crop produce than viticulture. Finally, the great flood of 1897 washed away a majority of the vineyards in the El Paso area, forcing many to give up the struggle. Though grapes would continue as a crop into the 20th century, this area would never regain its viticulture prominence.

During the early 20th century the Texas wine industry rose and fell depending on economic and weather conditions. However, Prohibition sent Texas wineries into extinction. Val Verde Winery was the only winery to survive this period, subsisting by growing table grapes. From the end of Prohibition until the mid 1970’s the wine industry never recovered with Val Verde Winery the sole commercial producer. In the late 1970's vineyards at A&M's Experimental Station in Lubbock began showing promising results for growing vinifera in Texas. This encouraged the emergence of a new generation of wineries, such as Guadalupe Valley Winery and Fall Creek Vineyards. In the 1980’s the Texas Legislature supported this trend by easing the rules required to establish small wineries. During the next two decades, the law of “Creative Destruction” exerted itself on the Teas wine industry as some wineries failed at the same time that new wineries were succeeding. Currently there are over 80 bonded Texas wineries, making Texas the 5th largest wine producing state. With many wineries awaiting permits and the increased number of Texas wineries winning international quality awards, the Texas wine industry appears extremely healthy.

The Mustang grape was also able to survive prohibition. Currently two Texas wineries vinify the grape: Lehm Berg Winery and Poteet Country Winery. Lehm Berg Winery is located in the central Texan town of Giddings and originated after father and son, Carl and Ben Droemer, collected wild mustang grapes and made 42 gallons of mustang grape wine from an old family recipe. After sharing their wine with friends and neighbors they were persuaded to open a commercial winery, which they finally completed in 2001. Today the winery sells three types of Mustang wine - Weiss, Rosa, and Rot – still using wild Mustang grapes and the old family recipe. They hope to encourage more people to use wild mustang grapes, which is quite possible – since the general public has responded positively to their Mustang offerings. Poteet Country Winery is located 30 minutes south of San Antonio. The winery currently produces a Mustang blend and a vintage White Mustang wine.