Focusing on the world of wines, beer, and spirits that we experience through our travels at WineCompass.com and theCompass Craft Beverage Finder.
Monday, May 30, 2022
Samoborski Bermet - Croatia's First Protected Aromatized Wine
Because of Bermet's historic production in Samobor and the desire to protect and promote that tradition, on "March 22, 2017, the Croatian Ministry of Agriculture approved the product specification for the existing geographical indication of aromatized wine products: 'Samoborski bermet', making it the only protected aromatized wine product in the Republic of Croatia". In 2020, the European Union extended this designation throughout Europe under the geographic quality schemes -- which "establish intellectual property rights for specific products, whose qualities are specifically linked to the area of production". These are systems similar to the national appellation systems used for wine throughout Europe.Members of the Filipec family have been making Bernet and Muštarda since at least 1812. The Filipecs were leather makers with the tannery located steps from Samobor's main square. However, in 1946, the tannery was confiscated from Josip Joca Filipec, who in need of a livelihood, started producing Bermet and Muštarda commercially. Upon his death, he distributed the Bermet production to his eldest son Vojko and the Muštarda production to his youngest son Antun Dubravko. In 1999 grandson Antun officially opened Podrumi Philipecz after renovating the old tannery discovering an old well and forced to work with the sloping floors of the former factory. Antun also augmented into producing more traditional still and sparkling wines -- some produced partially using a wooden press built in 1864. These include delicious Grasevina, Pinot Sivi (Pinot Gris), a Rose Tia, and Cuvee Roko. Returning to Bermet, Antun uses a Frankovka (Blaufranish) and Blauer Portugieser (both grown on the nearby Samobor Mountains) as a base then blends in the proprietary ingredients (certainly wormwood, carob, oranges, and dried figs) and aging six months in oak. The current version (18%) starts with an herbaceous aroma and then moves between sweet and bitter with both the wine and bitterness alternating taking center stage. During our visit, Antun showed us how Bermet ages, even after opening as the herbs act as a preservative. The 2009 shows less bitterness but richer figs and orange with a mint aroma. The 2006 is more bitter as the wormwood dominates. Finally, the 1992 retains a remarkable freshness with a strong aroma of various fruits and herbs and just a hint of bitterness. I purchased a bottle in hopes of witnessing the wine develop over the next couple of decades. And every year post an updated tasting note. Cheers.
Monday, May 23, 2022
Grape Spotlight: Fiano di Avellino with Feudi di San Gregorio
Like all the so-called archeological vines of Campania, Fiano barely escaped extinction. In the 1930s, the region was hit with phylloxera. That blight was followed by the devastation of World War II, which left Campania felix smoldering. During post-war recovery, the government encouraged farmers to plant prolific workhorse grapes like Malvasia and Trebbiano. Fiano, with its small berries and naturally low yields, was abandoned. Ode to an Ancient Grape: Fiano - Patricia Thomson
Fiano most likely was recognized as a distinct grape variety over two thousand years ago. Its name is derived from Vitis apiana, meaning vine beloved of bees. A different kind of vineyard pest. According to wine-searcher.com, "this wine was appreciated in the Middle Ages. The story goes that Charles d'Anjou, King of Naples, was so enamored with this variety that he had 16,000 Fiano vines planted in the royal vineyards".
Over 20 years ago the Capaldo and Ercolino families established Feudi di San Gregorio in the tiny village of Sorbo Serpico in order to produce wines from indigenous grapes well suited to the porous volcanic soils of Mount Vesuvius. They stress the importance of the microclimate of Irpinia, a historical region of the Campanian Apennines, "where vineyards have always coexisted with fruit trees, woodland, olive trees and herbs: a rugged and yet gentle territory with a strong and genuine identity". In addition, "Irpinia is an ancient inland whose vineyards were even described by ancient authors such as Pliny, Columella and Strabo. The Irpinia region is very varied, with a succession of mountains, hills and plains with rivers and streams in between. The territory’s orography causes a system of winds that gives the region good rainfall and creates a microclimate that sets it apart from the other Campania areas: vegetation is varied and thick; the short winters are extremely cold and snowy, while the summers are mild and long".Feudi di San Gregorio Fiano di Avellino 2019 ($28)
This wine aged for about four months in stainless steel and is a very unique profile with citrus notes mingling with spices and nuts. Such an interesting combination without oak treatment. Expect sufficient minerality and light acidity. Excellent.
Thursday, May 19, 2022
GPS and Organic Farming at Page Mill Winery
Since moving to Livermore, Page Mill Winery's estate vineyard has been farmed organically and driving into the premises visitors immediately notice the cover crops and tractor-pulled chicken coup. The chickens help control the insects and babydoll sheep are an alternative to mowing as their manure also acts as a fertilizer. In fact. "sheep offer some of the best natural fertilizers as their manure pellets take time to dissolve into the soil". And in 2019, Stark moved toward biodynamic farming with the first release of biodynamic wines planned for the 2022 vintage.
In the meantime, Page Mill's current portfolio is outstanding. We started with a lively 2021 Livermore Valley Sauvignon Blanc followed by the 2021 San Francisco Bay Chardonnay. The grapes derive from Page Mill's former location near the Santa Cruz Mountains. Interestingly the hierarchy of AVAs starts with the Central Coast AVA then down to the San Francisco Bay AVA which the Livermore Valley AVA is a sub-AVA within. We sampled a range of reds that truly showcased the diversity of the region from cool-climate Pinot Noir to a Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. My favorite was the GPS - a blend of Grenache, Petite Sirah, and Syrah that just melts the palate. Looking forward to posting on its longevity by opening the 2016 I purchased.I also want to return on the third Sunday of every month for Page Mill's BYOB program where consumers can fill one of their bottles for $10. A great idea.
Monday, May 16, 2022
Grape Spotlight: Greco di Tufo DOCG from Feudi di San Gregorio
"According to Greek researchers, the broader picture of Italians of 'Greek origin' such as Greco di Tufo, Grecanico, Grechetto actually look to be non-Greek as none of them share visual traits commonly carried by Greek varieties.", 'Greek' grape varieties in Italy not Greek? Jancis Robinson
Greco di Tufo is a DOCG (DOC in 1970; DOCG in 2003) of the Campania wine region in southern Italy and shares the name with the region's predominant grape. The Greco di Tufo grape variety is a clone of Greco Bianco and was once believed to have been introduced to Campania from ancient Greece. However, as stated in the Jancis Robinson article above, that view is strongly debated.
Although the Greco di Tufo grape also grows in Lazio, it thrives in the tuff-filled, volcanic soil surrounding Tufo and the seven other villages. According to wine-searcher.com, "the name Tufo refers not only to one of the villages from which the wine comes but also to the type of rock on which the village was built. Known as tuff in English - but distinct from limestone tufa - it is made of ash ejected during an eruption which then compacts.
The vines from which Greco di Tufo wines are made are cultivated at an altitude of 450 to 500 meters (1,310–1,640ft), where the cooler temperatures allow grapes to enjoy the persistent summer sunshine without overheating or having their photosynthesis shut down. This allows them to ripen without losing too much acidity, an effect magnified by the higher diurnal temperature variation here. The best Greco di Tufo vineyards are found on the volcanic hills of the Avellino province in central Campania. Only eight villages can legally claim to make Greco di Tufo: Tufo, Montefusco, Petruro Irpino, Chianche, Torrioni, Altavilla, Irpina and Prata di Principato Ultra".
Over 20 years ago the Capaldo and Ercolino families established Feudi di San Gregorio in the tiny village of Sorbo Serpico in order to produce wines from indigenous grapes well suited to the porous volcanic soils of Mount Vesuvius. They stress the importance of the microclimate of Irpinia, a historical region of the Campanian Apennines, "where vineyards have always coexisted with fruit trees, woodland, olive trees and herbs: a rugged and yet gentle territory with a strong and genuine identity". In addition, "Irpinia is an ancient inland whose vineyards were even described by ancient authors such as Pliny, Columella and Strabo. The Irpinia region is very varied, with a succession of mountains, hills and plains with rivers and streams in between. The territory’s orography causes a system of winds that gives the region good rainfall and creates a microclimate that sets it apart from the other Campania areas: vegetation is varied and thick; the short winters are extremely cold and snowy, while the summers are mild and long".
Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo 2020 ($28)
This wine was aged for four months in stainless steel tanks and in contact with its lees at all times. This process creates a richer body that allows the strong citrus profile and minerality to linger throughout the mouthfeel. There's also a hint of herbaceousness that comes worth with the steady acidity. A beautiful wine.
Friday, May 13, 2022
A Trio of Cabernet Barrel Choices at McGrail Vineyards and Winery
2018 Patriot Cabernet ($54)
The wine was aged in 100% new American oak from Missouri and after bottling aged an additional five months before release. The wine explodes with flavors and tannins with a large mouthfeel, cherry and vanilla, which transitions to a more earthy and tobacco character. This wine will be difficult to cellar since it's very drinkable now.
2018 Good Life - A Jo Elet ($59)
This wine was aged for 32 months in new Hungarian Oak. This is a full-bodied and dense wine that even though has fresh fruit flavors, needs to pihenés for a number of years. The juicy tannins envelop a plethora of spices and notes of vanilla, dark chocolate, leather, and some cinnamon and coffee, I will open my bottle on St. Stephen's Day 2025.
2018 James Vincent ($79)
The James Vincent was barrel-aged for 35 months and then bottle-aged for 3 months before being released. This wine's quality and overall deliciousness substantiate the higher price. It is softer and more elegant with a fresh dark cherry aroma and flavor. It finishes with baking spices grappling with firm tannins for a long luscious tail.
2018 Cabernet Reserve ($49)
This wine is an interesting blend of the three-barrel types which none taking center stage. It seems to have a darker fruit profile and the tannic structure falls closer to the Patriot. There are plenty of spices and earthy notes that compliment the mouthfeel and this one is drinking nicely right now.
A special thanks to Mark Clarin for allocating time for us on such short notice and providing such a comprehensive tour of the wines, vineyard, and facility. And I apologize for not highlighting your phenomenal first release of Grenache Blanc. Cheers.
Wednesday, May 11, 2022
What We Learned While Visiting Ridge Vineyards
The winery is located in the Santa Cruz Mountains, a mountain range in central and northern California that forms a ridge down the San Francisco Peninsula, south of San Francisco. They separate the Pacific Ocean from the San Francisco Bay and the Santa Clara Valley and are bisected by the San Andreas Fault. The tension within this tectonic boundary between the Pacific Plate and the North American Plate pushed limestone soil to the surface of Monte Bello Ridge in which Ridges' vineyards are planted.
The current tasting room was formally the production winery. When Paul Draper joined the partnership in 1969, they quickly planned to transfer processing to the recently purchased and abandoned Monte Bello Winery located near the top of Monte Bello Ridge. This facility was originally constructed in the late 1880s by Osea Perrone who also planted the first vines on the ridge at the same time. The facility included a large cellar built into the mountainside and a spring where water can even run through the winery after heavy rains. Ridge implements regenerative farming practices that complement its organic philosophy. They plant an extensive range of cover crops to add nitrogen and organic matter, increase the population of beneficial insects, control erosion, and control vine vigor in excessively fertile soils. They also planted hedgerows in vineyards to "help harbor and expand beneficial insect populations, provide shelter for animals, shade for waterways, fix carbon from the atmosphere, and break up the monoculture of vineyards". Finally, they practice no-till (mow only on alternative rows) on our hillside vineyard blocks to help minimize erosion and build organic matter in the soil.Through its estate vineyards as well as plots they manage, the Ridge harvests a plethora of grape varieties. These include Picpoul (which is blended into their Grenache Blanc), Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Mataro, Carignane, Counose, Grenache, and Malvoisie. Vice President of Vineyard Operations, David Gates, even planted Croatian Tribidrag in their Lytton Estate from cuttings directly from Zinfandel's home country. This replicated a similar venture where Puglia Primitivo clones were planted at the Lytton Estate.When Draper arrived at Ridge he was inclined to use American oak barrels, but in 1974 they started a trial comparing wine aged in American and French oak. The American oak was sourced from a cooperage in the Ozarks using Appalachian wood and made in a smaller bourbon size. After the trials, the team determined that the American oak was better suited for the Monte Bello vineyard’s tannic grapes. Since the American oak is twice as dense as French, it contains more spice and wood sugar compounds that slowly extract and fill out a wine’s body.Finally, the ridge sometimes becomes a home for rattlesnakes in June and October. When that occurs the snakes are trapped and relocated to more remote areas.
Saturday, April 30, 2022
Mother's Day with Riondo Prosecco, Bormioli Rocco, and the Minute Mimosa Sugar Cube Trio
Riondo is named for nearby Mount Riondo and the brand produces DOC sparkling wines using the Charmat method from grapes grown in over 14,800 acres of vineyards in the Veneto region. The Riondo DOC Prosecco Extra Dry ($15) is 100% Glera and is extremely dry with noticeable pear and bready characters. The wine finishes with refreshing acidity boosted by the increased effervescence. We used the non-typical Bormioli Rocco cocktail glasses and added a Peach and Raspberry cube from the Shimmer Peach and Berries cube trio. The cane sugar added roundness and softened the sparkling wine while providing subtle fruit flavors. Can't wait to use the Bormioli Rocco for more traditional cocktails and picking up more Riondo at either WholeFoods or Norms Beer & Wine. Cheers and Happy Mother's Day.
Wednesday, April 27, 2022
Grape Spotlight: ICP Côtes de Gascogne Tannat with Domaine de Malartic
The "terroir" across Côtes de Gascogne changes moving east to west with the eastern region more maritime from proximity to the Atlantic Ocean and changing to a continental climate moving inland. According to wine-searcher,com, "In the east, summers are warmer and drier, and the clay-limestone soils retain water more effectively. Nearer the coast, loose, sandy soils with good drainage and high rainfall characterize the vineyards".
White wine grapes dominate the region with over 90% of planting, but for the lesser-grown red wine grapes, Tannat is a major player. The grape is thought to have originated in the rugged Basque regions between France and Spain which may explain its inherently tough vines, thick leaves, and resistance to diseases. In general, Tannat grapes contain high natural acidity and aggressive tannins leading to wines that age nicely. Tannat wines are also characterized by deep color and high alcohol.
The Domaine de Malartic is a family estate belonging to the Périssé family and located in Gers. They produce a range of Côtes de Gascogne, Floc de Gascogne and Bas-Armagnac wines. For five generations the Périssé family has grown grapes on 68ha of vines on slopes rising off the Adour River in Bas-Armagnac. This land consists of plateaus featuring sand, reddish clay, silt, and pebbles with the vineyards extending over hillsides below the Pyrenees. They grow Colombard, Gros Manseng, Ugniblanc, Tannat, Cabernets, and Merlot with the Tannat and Merlot key ingredients to two of the wines I received in a recent Hopwine virtual fair.Domaine de Malartic Côtes de Gascogne Orignes Rouge 2019 Tannat
This 100% Tannat is very complex and intriguing with a white pepper aroma, rustic chewy cherries, and noticeable tannins.
Domaine de Malartic Côtes de Gascogne Mosaic Rouge 2020 Merlot / Tannat
This blend is rounder with a chalky and herbaceous character with earthy dark fruit and finishing with woody tannins.
Friday, April 22, 2022
Old Dominick Distillery & the Memphis Toddy
Honeybell Citrus Vodka (80 proof)
The Honeybell Orange is a hybrid of sweet tangerine and bitter grapefruit and Master Distiller Alex Castle feels this is one of her most "inventive and unique" spirits. This is a very smooth vodka, where both aspects of the fruit are truly noticeable.
Formula No. 10 Gin (95 proof)
An interesting gin that starts with juniper and finishes with licorice. Complex flavors from the eight botanicals: juniper, coriander, angelica root, licorice root, grapefruit peel, chamomile, orris root, and ginger root.
Huling Station Straight Bourbon (100 proof)
Huling Station was the closest railway station to the D. Canale & Co. warehouse where, in 1866, Domenico Canale’s spirits were shipped throughout the United States. This is made from a high rye recipe and bottled at 100 proof -- "reminiscent of the spirits offered by Domenico Canale". There's definitely a bite to this bourbon with spicy notes mixed with the corn and caramel.
Huling Station Straight Wheat Whiskey (90 proof)
This whiskey is comprised of 83 percent wheat, producing a lighter, more delicate profile. A very pleasant sipper with stronger grassy characters.
Memphis Toddy (60 proof)
This is the reverse-engineered spirit that led to the founding of the distillery. Its base is a high-rye bourbon which is then augmented with proprietary and a "carefully-curated array of natural ingredients". It has an interesting profile, starts with the rye bite but then finishes with a sweet, baking spice finish.
Tuesday, April 19, 2022
Louisiana's Three Roll Estate: Rhum Agicole From Cane to Glass
It appears our future may entail more visits to Louisana so we looking forward to returning and spending more time in the tasting room and perhaps a visit during harvest. Cheers and thanks to theCompass Craft Beverage Finder.
Thursday, April 14, 2022
Nashville's Corsair Artisan Distillery
Corsair American Gin (92 proof, $29.99)
This gin is produced in small batches using a vapor basket system where the botanicals are extracted instead of cooked as in the more traditional boiling/maceration process. The result is a very citrus-forward gin popular in the American style with noticeable cucumbers and mint. The juniper is apparent but sometimes I feel the pendulum is swinging too far from the London Dry style.
The distillery ages their American Gin in used spiced rum barrels with the intention of imparting "vanilla, fall spice notes, and wood to the finished product". Instead, I think the wood-induced characters overwhelm the gin and impart too much wood into the final product.
Corsair Spiced Rum (85 proof, $29.99)
The rum is produced from molasses and then aged in small (15 and 30 gallons) new American Oak casks. This is a solid rum with plenty of vanilla and baking spices that carry throughout.
The grain bill consists of 61% Malted rye, 4% malted chocolate rye, and 35% malted barley. The use of malted barley over corn makes this both a rye whiskey and a malt whiskey but also tones down the spicy rye notes and adds smoother mocha sweetness.
Corsair Triple Smoke Small Batch American Malt Whiskey (85 proof, $49.99)
The distillery uses three individually smoked malts (cherrywood from Wisconsin, beechwood from Germany, and peat from Scotland) to craft this malt whiskey. This is such a unique spirit -- both peated and smoked with the smoke holding court. Since I purchased this bottle, I've had more opportunities to sample it than the other spirits and each time the profile changes slightly. Sometimes mesquite dominates, other times butterscotch and peat. Truly worth visiting just to pick up this smoked gem.
Monday, April 4, 2022
A Southern Brewery Tour
Apparently, we missed a great spot during last year's Bristol Rhythm & Roots as Great Oak Brewery and Southern Craft BBQ opened at the tail end of State Street. The BBQ was excellent - try the burnt ends tacos or half chicken. The two beers I tried were as good. The Tennessee Uncommon Ale has a mash bill that includes corn and was more flavorful than expected. The Twin Eddies Coffee Porter was a surprisingly good pairing with the burnt ends. Can't wait to return for the 2022 music festival.Balter Beerworks (Knoxville, Tennessee)
Another brewery with a tremendous kitchen (blackened Mahi wrap), Balter is located in downtown Knoxville and provides a full bar in addition to a dozen craft beers. I went with a flight that included the Good Neighbor Kolsch, Maypop American Pale Ale, Firebelly IPA, and Bear Blend Coffee Oatmeal Porter. These are solid beers, interestingly the Maypop was more intense than the Firebelly. The Good Neighbor was well made - refreshing with a little breadiness - and worthy of a crowler to the hotel room.
On Friday nights it looks like half of Birmingham descends to the Sloss Docls to hang out at Back Forty Beer Company. Full kitchen, plenty of seating and outdoor space, wine, and lots of beer choices. I tried two Pale Ales side by side, the Naked Pig Pale Ale and the Barrel Smash American Pale Ale. Both are full of flavor with the Naked Pig a bit easier on the palate. We also had a glass or two of the Bama Mosa Brut Ale which is a tasty light ale fermented using champaign yeast and augmented with orange juice. A fan favorite for one in our party. Finally, we brought home a 4-pk of the Slur Bight Fruited Sour. Fermented with oranges and aged in vanilla it is soft with definite tropical flavors.
Unfortunately, our timing was not optimal for stopping in Hattiesburg as the brewery's tasting room is closed for renovations. However, I was able to try two of their beers at the Crescent City Grill while getting our first exposure to cajun cooking. The Suzy B is an unfiltered Blonde Ale packing plenty of flavors and a lasting finish. The Devil's Harvest is a Breakfast IPA weighing in at a mere 4.9% and carrying some oats in the mash bill. No need for high alcohol with this much flavor. Excellent.
Tin Roof Brewing Co (Baton Rouge, Louisana)
This brewery is the closest to LSU and I was able to try their Paloma Gose which lead me to visit the next day. Their Voodoo juicy pale ale is their most popular but I was more overwhelmed by their experimental beers like the King Cake Cream Ale brewed with malt, corn, rice, and two locally commissioned king cakes! The Parade Ground Porter was brewed with plenty of coffee beans and dozens of donuts. Each is delicious but don't overlook the Doubtfire Banana Coconut Cream Berliner Weisse. This is far beyond the traditional sea salt and coriander. Loads of flavors.
Parish Brewing Company (Broussard, Louisana)
Broussard is located about five miles south of Lafayette so it's a quick trip to Parish Brewing from the Hub City. It's also apparent that berliner weisse and coffee stouts and porters are popular beer styles in the south as Parish provides several. The Greetings from Holly Beach is a tiki-styled Berliner Weisse with pineapple, mango, passionfruit, coconut cream, and toasted coconut. Fantastic. The Sips Pinot Noir Black Currant is dry, but juicy with dark fruit and a lasting finish. The Parliament of Owls is a powerful Espresso Blend Imperial Stout with graham crackers, chocolate, and toasted marshmallow. At 13% this packs a wallop of flavors and alcohol. On the lighter side, the Parish Pilsner and Canebrake Wheat ale are solid. Natchez Brewing Co (Natchez, Mississippi)
This brewery is located in perhaps the oldest city in Mississippi with scenic views of the mighty river and plenty of historic homes and museums. The city also doesn't have an open container law so a nice way to spend an afternoon is to grab a crowler from the brewery and sit along the river at Natchez Under the Hill. I purchased two of these for destinations later in the trip. The first was the German Pilsner Frölich which is spot on stylistically with a refreshing, bready profile. The second was the Southern Grace Berliner Weisse keeping the traditional profile with very creamy sea salt and a slightly sour finish.
The brewery has two locations in Memphis, their original location on South Main and on historic Beale Street. This last location was within a short walk from our hotel so we had a quick visit before the Redbirds baseball game. This location also has a large backyard patio where a band was setting up that couldn't get started before we finished our flight. This was a random flight generated by a pourer and started with a delightful Grindhouse Cream Ale. The flight also included the Dom’s Barrel-Aged Red Ale which spent six months in Old Dominick whiskey barrels. Definitely taste the whiskey. It ended with the Rocket 88 Stout which is a solid roasted malty beer. Finally, the brewery's flagship beer, the Ghost River Gold, is available throughout the city - like at the Lookout Restaurant at the Bass Pro Shop Pyramid.
This brewery has three Nashville tasting rooms with one in Music Row, just up the street from the original Tin Roof. Witness the long tasting board showing over 40 beers, seltzers, and ciders. Over a Lent pizza and Calabrese fries, I drank a flight of four well-made beers which consisted of the Solar Eclipse Hazy Pale Ale, Cranberry Gose, Tennessee Lager, and Peanut Butter Milk Stout. I appreciate the opportunity to taste locally inspired beers like the Tennessee Common Lager which includes some corn in the mash bill. I also had a pour of their house-made hard cider - delicious apple flavors with tartness and acidity. With this expansive beer menu, I hope to return before we leave Nashville to taste so many styles in my wheelhouse: Lager Projekt: German Pilsner; SHNACK Sour Series; Barrel Project: Coffee, Coconut, Hazelnut; Mixed Culture Stout; Trees: Hop in Smoke, and so much more.
Great Raft Brewing Reasonably Corrupt Dark Lager - Shreveport, Lousiana
Flying Tiger Brewery Burma Blonde Lager - Monroe, Lousiana
Yellowhammer Brewery Sunliner Fruited Sour - Huntsville, Alabama
Crosstown Brewing Siren Blonde Ale - Memphis, Tennessee
Little Harpeth Chicken Scratch Pilsner - Nashville, Tennessee
New Heights Brewing Coffee & Cream - Nashville, Tennessee
Wednesday, March 30, 2022
Grape Spotlight: Wairau Valley Sauvignon Blanc with Wairau River Wines
Wairau Valley has a warm, dry climate that is moderated during the growing season by sea breezes from Cloudy Bay. Hot sunshine during the day and cold ocean winds at night extend the ripening period in the grapes, leading to a balance of fruit complexity and acidity. This diurnal temperature variation is essential to the terroir in the Wairau Valley – without it, much of the classic punchiness of the wines made here would be lost. (wine-searcher.com)
Sauvignon Blanc accounts for over three-quarters of New Zealand's wine exports which focus on the fresher styles -- fermenting and storing in stainless steel to retain the grape's naturally high acidity. Wine-searcher.com has an interesting note that "the original plant material for much of the Sauvignon Blanc planted in Marlborough in the 1980s, 90s and today traces its way via Australia and the University of California, Davis. This latter institution sourced their rootstock from Wente Vineyards (the cuttings were taken by the legendary grape breeder, Dr. Harold Olmo, in 1958) who got theirs from a vineyard established in the late 19th Centruy with cuttings from the Sauternes estate, Château d'Yquem".
Wairau River Wines is a Wairau Valley producer located on the eastern side of the valley within the most prolific wine-growing area where the Wairau River meets the Pacific Ocean. The winery was founded in 1978 when Phil and Chris Rose planted their first vineyard. After a decade of contract growing, they established the Wairau River Wines brand in 1991 and currently release ten varietal wines including New Zealand's signature Sauvignon Blanc. Their sons Hamish (viticulturist), Sam (winemaker), Pip (hospitality), and Rose (chef) have assumed the major responsibilities showing that the Rose family implemented a succession plan that is sadly missing for so many family operations.I received their Wairau River Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($20.99) in conjunction with a #BackToNature campaign highlighting the confluence of quality wine and heading outdoors. With the industry-wide adoption of screwcaps, New Zealand wines are at the forefront of enjoying these wines outdoors. The Wairau River Sauvignon Blanc is an excellent choice for both indoor and outdoor consumption. The wine starts with tangly grapefruit on the nose that leads to a textured body of stone fruits and finishes with a long, dry, and refreshingly acidic tail. For a family that likes to hike and fish the wine pairs nicely with freshly caught trout cooked using the Wairau River Solos Stove. Cheers.
Saturday, March 26, 2022
Grape Spotlight: Mosel's Leiwen & Weingut Nikolaus Köwerich Riesling
Weingut Nikolaus Köwerich is a German producer utilizing Riesling grown in Leiwener Laurentiuslay and on the similar sunbaked blue devon slate soils of the Köwerich Allemagne vineyard. Church records show that Nick Köwerich's family has been living in Leiwen since 1548, potentially part of the Riesling Mosel wine tradition that began in 1465. Both he and his wife Annette are agricultural engineers and apply modern techniques to the traditions Nick learned from his father's vineyard.
Weingut Nikolaus Köwerich Allemagne - Mosel Herr Mosel Köwericher Laurentiuslay - 2020 Riesling
If you seek a dry, minerally driven Riesling, then look no further. Expect bright lemons, racy minerals, a hint of tannins, and a long dry finish.
Weingut Nikolaus Köwerich Allemagne - Mosel Fräulein Mosel Leiwener Laurentiuslay - 2016 Riesling
On the other hand, if you prefer a sweeter, more full-bodied Riesling with similar salinity then Miss Mosel is your wine. There are a plethora of fruit flavors from citrus to stone fruits to green apples -- all combined in a creamy body -- and balanced with sufficient acidity.