Grape Spotlight: Bugey Cerdon AOP with Cellier Lingot Martin

Bugey is a winegrowing region in the Ain administrative department of eastern France, in the mountainous areas just south of Lac Léman (Lake Geneva) and the border with Switzerland. Bugey is most often associated with Savoie as they are close geographically and produce similar wine styles.  Bugey is a very cool climate region and the vineyard area covers a patchwork of communes in the Ain, with the majority of the vineyard area around the town of Belley. Another cluster, further north and more-or-less contiguous with the vineyard area of the sparkling Bugey Cerdon lies just southwest of Bourg-en-Bresse. 

Vineyards in this Cerdon cru are divided between two key slopes: one immediately west of the village itself, the other a little way to the south. These steep, southeast-facing slopes, with their sunny aspect and free-draining soils, are perfect for ripening the grapes.  The vines not only enjoy prolonged exposure to the sunshine; their southeasterly slant means they receive the gentler morning rays rather than the harsher afternoon sun. This, in turn, allows the grapes to ripen more leisurely and retain a certain acidity at harvest, when flavors peak.

Courtesy of Vineyards.com

The Cerdon AOP involves exclusively sparkling rosé wines made from the Gamay and Poulsard grape varieties using the "méthode ancestrale". This is the oldest known method of producing sparkling wine, where primary fermentation is halted before completion and the wine is bottled to finish fermenting, trapping carbon dioxide for bubbles without adding sugar or yeast and without disgorgement. 

Cellier Lingot Martin is located in Poncin, in the Ain department, just a few kilometers from the village of Cerdon. The winery is renowned for producing Cerdon AOP  wines. We received two of these through the Hopwine, the SEC and Intense. Both of these are made using Gamay and the "méthode ancestrale". The Lingot Martin NV Cerdon Méthode Ancestrale Classic Sec shows a dark pink wine with an anticipated fruit forward profile of strawberries and raspberries.  The Lingot Martin NV Cerdon Méthode Ancestrale Intense is darker in appearance with more jammy notes and a little sweeter.  Both are very refreshing wines perhaps as an apéritif or even as dessert with an apple, pumpkin, or cherry pie?

Grape Spotlight: Bugey AOP Chardonnay with Cellier Lingot Martin

Bugey is a winegrowing region in the Ain administrative department of eastern France, in the mountainous areas just south of Lac Léman (Lake Geneva) and the border with Switzerland. Bugey is most often associated with Savoie as they are close geographically and produce similar wine styles.  Bugey is a very cool climate region and the vineyard area covers a patchwork of communes in the Ain, with the majority of the vineyard area around the town of Belley. Another cluster, further north and more-or-less contiguous with the vineyard area of the sparkling Bugey Cerdon lies just southwest of Bourg-en-Bresse.

Courtesy of Vineyards.com

The best sites are on the south-facing slopes, where the combination of cool subalpine air, a sunny aspect and free draining soils (mostly based on limestone) provides the best chance for the grapes to achieve optimal ripeness. More than half of all Bugey wines are white. Chardonnay is the principal grape variety of the Bugey appellation, and must make up at least 70 percent of Bugey still white wines.  (wine-searcher)

Cellier Lingot Martin is located in Poncin, just a few kilometers from the village of Cerdon. The winery is renowned for producing Cerdon AOP (a sparkling rosé made using the 'méthode ancestrale') as well as Bugey AOP wines.  One of these is their Bugey Blanc Chardonnay, a fresh wine showing a combination of citrus and green apples laved with noticeable minerality and a refreshing lasting finish.  Bâtonnage of the lees provides depth and increased aromatics. This is a delicious wine, but what pie would you pair it with, apple or pumpkin?

Note: In the video I refer to Bugey being in western France. It is obviously in eastern France.

Grape Spotlight: Peloponnese Assyrtiko with Ktima Kissa & European Wine Treasures

Two weeks ago I attended a virtual masterclass presented by Master Sommelier Evan Goldstein on European Wine Treasures -- a three-year European Union co-funded initiative designed to showcase wines from the ancient vineyards of Greece to the distinctive terroir of Jumilla PDO, Spain. The idea is to present two iconic (yet perhaps obscure) wine regions with one European story in terms of exploring the authenticity, heritage, and quality behind European wines with certified origin.  The discussion on the Greece focused on the region's basic terroir and then to its signature grape: Assyrtiko.  Popularly recognized as being associated with Santorini's arid, volcanic and windy climate, but the grape is also grown in the mainland and other islands, like this Ktima Kissa (PGI) Peloponnese Assyrtiko 2025. The constant across Greece is the high natural acidity, structure, and varying fruit character depending on the growing region.

Archaeological evidence confirms that Greece is home to some of the oldest known grape wine remnants in the world with the earliest evidence of crushed grapes, dating back approximately 6,500 years (1).  The evolution of Greek wine from this period became shaped by varied topography, the rise of indigenous grapes, regional microclimates, and obviously the numerous islands with their own terroir. 

Assyrtiko is one of Greece’s most recognizable white grape varieties, historically rooted in Santorini but now cultivated across the mainland where it adapts to diverse soils and climatic conditions. The grape is known for its ability to maintain high acidity even in hot environments, a trait linked to its thick skins and slow phenolic development. Mainland expressions typically show citrus, saline, and stone‑fruit characteristics supported by a firm acid backbone and mineral tension. 

The Peloponnese is one of Greece’s most active mainland wine regions, known for its combination of coastal influences, elevated interior plateaus, and varied soil types. The northern Peloponnese, in particular, benefits from cooling breezes from the Gulf of Corinth and higher‑altitude vineyard sites that moderate summer heat. Soils range from limestone and marl to gravelly alluvial deposits, supporting moderate vine vigor and steady ripening. The region is traditionally associated with Moschofilero, Agiorgitiko, and Roditis, yet plantings of Assyrtiko have expanded due to the grape’s ability to retain acidity and structure in warm Mediterranean climates. In the Peloponnese, Assyrtiko often presents a slightly broader palate compared to its island counterparts, though still marked by linearity and structural clarity. Producers value the grape for its versatility in stainless‑steel fermentation, restrained oak use, and suitability for both early‑drinking and age‑worthy styles.

Ktima Kissa is located in Diminio in the northern Peloponnese, a coastal zone in Corinthia. The winery was founded in 1949 by the Kissa family, with a focus on showing how local grapes respond to the soils and climate of  the mountainous areas of Corinth. Their primary vineyard holdings are located on the slopes of Mavrioros - or Black Mountain - and part of Ziria mountain with the vines reaching an elevation of 750m to 900m.  The mountain thus protects these elevated sites from the hot south winds and breezes from the Gulf of Corinth spark nighttime temperature drops that help preserve acidity. These parcels are planted in rocky and sandy loamy soils that provide just enough drainage and water retention to allow for dry farming. The result of these conditions is s an extended ripening period, preserving Assyrtiko’s characteristic acidity but also allowing the varietal to express a more aromatic – fruity dimension. 

The grapes in the Ktima Kissa PGI Peloponnese Assyrtiko 2025 were hand harvested and after fermentation the wine sat with the lees for an additional nine months with periodic batonnage before bottling. The wine shows Assyrtiko’s characteristic citrus and mineral profile and is driven by the acidity bringing lasting liveliness. 

(1) Soultana-Maria Valamoti, Professor, School of History and Archaeology, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki

Grape Spotlight: Kakheti Kisi from the Republic of Georgia

Last week I attended a Wines of Georgia seminar and tasting that intentionally or not tied the Republic of Georgia’s wine identity to its indigenous grape varieties, many of which have been cultivated for millennia across diverse climatic and geological zones.  Among these is Kisi -- a white grape native to eastern Georgia and historically associated with the Kakheti region. It is valued for its ability to produce both classical European‑style wines and traditional qvevri wines, each expressing the grape’s naturally aromatic profile, moderate acidity, and textural depth.

Georgia's landscape hosts ten officially recognized wine regions and these viticultural zones span a range of elevations influenced by the Greater and Lesser Caucasus Mountains. This creates distinct microclimates from humid western regions to the drier continental east. Eastern Georgia, where Kisi is most prevalent, experiences warm summers, cold winters, and significant diurnal temperature variation. These conditions help maintain acidity in white grapes despite high sunlight exposure. Soils vary by valley and slope position but commonly include alluvial deposits, loam, gravel, and pockets of calcareous material. These well‑drained soils support moderate vine vigor and steady ripening. Georgia’s long‑standing use of buried clay qvevri vessels also affects the final wine profile by enabling stable fermentation temperatures and extended maceration when desired.

Kakheti is characterized by a dry climate, abundant sunshine, and the influence of cool air descending from the Caucasus foothills. Vineyards are typically planted between 400 and 800 meters in elevation, with soils composed of alluvial layers, loam, and gravel that promote drainage and root penetration. These conditions support consistent ripening and allow growers to choose between early harvesting for higher acidity or later harvesting for fuller aromatics. 

Kisi has been traditionally grown in limited quantities but the grape is currently experiencing a modern revival surrounding its historic home in the Alazani Valley and surrounding foothills. Here growers value the grape for its moderate acidity, aromatic potential, and adaptability to both traditional qvevri and modern European‑style winemaking. The grape typically produces wines with stone‑fruit and citrus characteristics in stainless‑steel or neutral‑oak fermentations, while qvevri vinification with extended skin contact yields amber‑colored wines with firmer tannins, dried‑fruit notes, and increased textural weight. I tasted examples of both of these styles at the Wines of Georgia tasting.

Orgo Winery is known for its emphasis on traditional qvevri winemaking and its use of older vineyards in Kakheti -- many with at least 50 year old vines. The winery is a project of the famous Georgian wine maker Gogi Dikishivili, who is often referred to as the "godfather of qvevri wine". He was one of the first winemakers to ever bottle and export qvevri wine and is universally acknowledged a pioneer of the revival of the qvevri wine technology in Georgia. Following this process, the Orgo Kisi 2024 underwent fermentation and aging in qvevri, resulting in an amber wine with a notable tannin presence and extended skin‑derived phenolics, plus surprising salinity. Orgo wines are available in the United States through the Georgian Wine House.

Koncho & Co Winery is based in the Kvareli area of Kakheti, where vineyards benefit from the Alazani Valley’s alluvial soils and the moderating influence of nearby mountain ranges. The winery was established using the foundation of the Konchoshvili wine cellar (dating back to 1737) with the goal to "find and cultivate extinct and endangered Georgian indigenous vine varieties and produce the exclusive wines from grapes harvested in these vineyards".   Their Kisi Qvevri 2019 ($28) is naturally vinified through spontaneous fermentation by wild yeast. The wine remains on grape skins and stems for six months in buried clay vessels, developing tannin structure and extended phenolic depth, and is then aged an additional six months in oak barrels. The wine is available in the United States through Qvevri Wines online store. 

Ashaneli Winery operates in Kakheti with a focus on indigenous varieties and a combination of traditional and modern techniques. Their wines generally follow a fruit‑forward, European‑style approach that emphasizes freshness, moderate alcohol, and clear varietal aromatics. The Ashaneli Kisi Kakheti 2024 $17.99) reflects this style, produced through controlled stainless‑steel fermentation to preserve primary fruit character and maintain balanced acidity. Ashaneli’s vineyards benefit from Kakheti’s warm, dry climate and well‑drained alluvial and loamy soils, which support consistent ripening. This wine demonstrates how Kisi can be expressed without extended skin contact while benefiting from the regional terroir associated with eastern Georgia. Ashaneli wines are available in various retail outlets in a dozen states.

Grape Spotlight: Jumilla PDO Monastrell Through European Wine Treasures & Bodegas Viña Elena

Last week I attended a virtual masterclass presented by Master Sommelier Evan Goldstein on European Wine Treasures -- a three-year European Union co-funded initiative designed to showcase wines from the ancient vineyards of Greece to the distinctive terroir of Jumilla PDO, Spain. The idea is to present two iconic (yet perhaps obscure) wine regions with one European story in terms of exploring the authenticity, heritage, and quality behind European wines with certified origin.

The discussion on the Jumilla PDO focused on the region's basic terroir and then to its signature grape: Monastrell (which most of the world knows as Mourvèdre). The common factor is that this thick-skinned and late ripening grape thrives in Jumillo's limestone and dry farmed soils. The large diurnal temperature swings help retain freshness and the longer growing season slowly concentrates fruit and helps generate structured dark fruit and "Monte Bajo" --  a signature aromatic profile. 

The masterclass taught us that Jumilla’s terroir is built upon a high, semi‑arid plateau in southeastern Spain, where elevations from 400 to 900 meters (1300-2000 feet) create sharp diurnal temperature swings that help maintain acidity in an otherwise hot interior climate. The region receives little rain (under 300 mm of annual rainfall) making drought stress a defining condition of the dry‑farmed, bush‑trained vines. Its soils are predominantly calcareous—light, stony limestone and sandy loams with low organic matter and excellent drainage—which naturally limit vigor, encourage deep rooting, and historically provided resistance to phylloxera. Climatically, Jumilla sits at the intersection of continental and Mediterranean influences: intense summer heat moderated by altitude, cold winters, and periodic Levantine breezes that temper extremes. (The Levantine breezes are easterly winds that blow through the western Mediterranean Sea and along the southern coasts of Spain and France.) These combined factors produce an environment where vine growth is restrained, yields are low, and fruit develops with notable concentration, structure, and mineral expression -- all hallmarks of the region’s distinct high‑plateau environment.

Monastrell is a late‑ripening, thick‑skinned variety whose parentage is completely Spanish in nature. Recent genetic work published in the Vitis – Journal of Grapevine Research (2015) indicate that it is a natural cross between Hebén and an as‑yet‑unidentified second parent. Its historical heartland is the Mediterranean arc of eastern Spain, where references to Murvedre and Monestrell appear in medieval agricultural records from Valencia and Catalonia (Wikipedia). Jumilla became one of its most important refuges in the late 19th century: the region’s sandy, limestone‑rich soils resisted phylloxera, allowing vast tracts of ungrafted Monastrell to survive while neighboring regions were devastated. 

Francisco Pacheco planted the seeds for Bodegas Viña Elena in the early 1940s by purchasing a property in Jumilla’s warmest and driest region, that of northeast of Murcia. This early bodega included a wine press and thus Francisco began to make wine. By 1948, his son Paco had inherited the press and enlarged the facility to make and age wine with the addition of concrete vats and large wooden casks. Over the years the operation expanded and more generations joined the family operation where today the it is currently in the hands of the third and fourth generations of the Pacheco Family.  

The Bruma del Estrecho de Marín Vineyard Collection was conceived by Elena Pacheco and Isio Ramos aimed at making 100% Monastrell wines from select DO Jumilla vineyards with the goal to craft wines that reach their full expression with regard to microclimate, soil, location, and the age of the vines.  One of these wines is the Paraje Marín -- 100% Monastrell sourced from a combination of different plots, located in the Marin Valley, southern sub-zone of the D.O.P. Jumilla.  These grapes are also Organic certified, were dry-farmed, and hand harvested. 

In general, the grapes come from an area called Estrecho de Marín (where the Viña Elena bodega is located) that lies in a valley flanked by two mountains: Rajica de Enmedio in the east and Solana Sopalmo in the west. As stated previously, this is DO Jumilla’s warmest and driest region and the goblet-pruned vines used to produce the Paraje Marín are planted on both sides of the valley: "those in the east are subject to more shade and give the wine freshness, minerality and elegance, while those in the west are subject to more sunlight and give the wine the characteristic maturity and warmth of the Monastrell grape variety". 

After the hand harvest, the grape juice was fermented in stainless steel tanks with the grapes’ native yeasts, then malolactic fermentation carried out slowly in concrete tanks, where the wine was then aged for six months in the old 1948 winery. The result is a deliciously fruit forward wine showing layers of blackberry and dark cherry fruit, noticeable herbaciousness and spices. 

Grape Spotlight: Virginia Blanc de Franc

Cabernet Franc is highly suitable for Virginia's climate because it ripens earlier than other red varieties, allowing it to avoid late-season rains and humidity that cause rot.  Its thicker skins and looser clusters provide natural disease resistance in these humid conditions, and its cold hardiness allows it to withstand winter temperatures better than varieties like Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon. Thus it is not surprising that it is the most widely planted grape in the Commonwealth with 610 acres planted. (See the Virginia Wine 2025 Commercial Wine Grape Report - pdf.)  

From what I recall, this Spring I tasted my very first Blanc de Franc wine at Capstone Vineyards and very soon afterwards tasted versions from the Shenandoah Valley's Cave Ridge Vineyard and our local favorite: Paradise Springs Winery. 

First, a basic primer. Red grapes contain nearly colorless juice so the dark color associated with red wines comes from extended skin contact during fermentation. However, Blanc de Franc is a white wine made entirely from red wine grapes - in this case - Cabernet Franc, produced by pressing the red grapes immediately so that the clear juice is separated from the skins before any color or tannin can be extracted. By eliminating the skin contact, winemakers obtain a pale, essentially white wine from a red grape variety. 

The production of Blanc de Franc relies on extremely gentle handling and pressing to avoid extracting pigment or harsh phenolics. Some producers use only free‑run juice, which flows from the grapes before any mechanical pressure is applied. Fermentation typically occurs in stainless steel to preserve freshness, and the wine may be fractioned or clarified without skin contact. 

During a recent excursion to Capstone Vineyards we were able to compare their 2025 Blanc de Franc ($44) with the Cave Ridge 2024 Blanc de Cabernet Franc ($27). And a week later we sampled the Paradise Springs Winery Blanc de Franc 2024 ($34) at their Rosé Day Celebration. We found that each wine was significantly different despite using very similar whole cluster pressing methods to avoid as much as possible introducing red pigment into the wine. 

For the Capstone, the pressed juice was a little pinker than they had wanted and they relied on the fermentation process where yeast can naturally leach remaining color from the juice. The finished wine is pale and provides more green apple and stone fruit characters with ample acidity.  The Cave Ridge version has a slightly darker appearance, more citrus notes, and similar acidity that is tempered by a little residual sugar. Finally, the Paradise Springs release is the most complex, on the one hand a strong citrus profile that also joins with a few tropic notes. Lots of depth which made for a very pleasant fröccs. Cheers.

Grape Spotlight: Moravian Pálava Using Sonberk as a Benchmark

Pálava tells the story of modern Moravia: a native grape rooted in tradition, yet confident enough to speak to the world. For many Czech wine lovers, Pálava represents a distinctly Moravian style of wine and is often considered one of the country's signature varieties. -- Sonberk Winery **

During an evening at the Czechia Embassy, we tasted two expressions of a local hybrid Pálava - a variety developed in Moravia by Josef Veverka from a crossbreeding Gewürztraminer and Müller-Thurgau. The new grape was named after the Pálava Hills, a UNESCO-protected landscape area in South Moravia renowned for its vineyards, limestone slopes, and centuries-old winemaking tradition. The breeding station where Veverka completed his work was located on the slopes of these hills, making the name a natural tribute to the region. Imagine the aromatics in these wines. First, though, let's step into the terroir. 

Moravia is the Czech Republic's viticultural engine and is responsible for 96% of Czech wine production. The region sits along the 49th parallel, sharing a latitude with Alsace and Champagne. It also resides at the intersection of Pannonian warmth and Central European coolness which helps explain its hallmark style: high‑acid, aromatic wines shaped by warm summers, cool autumns, and slow ripening. Vineyards typically lie between 240–320 meters in elevation and the soil is a mosaic of loess, limestone, sand, and ancient seabed deposits.

Mikulov is a subregion of Moravia and is dominated by the limestone massif of Pálava -- one of Moravia’s most distinctive terroirs. It excels in Welsch Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon, and the local aromatic cross Pálava. The town of Mikulov is a cultural and wine hub, home to festivals and historic wine presses. 

Pálava is a mid‑ to late‑ripening variety, typically reaching full maturity toward the end of the harvest window in South Moravia. It thrives in warm exposures where it can accumulate flavor precursors without losing acidity. The grape forms medium‑compact clusters with small to medium berries, thick enough in skin to contribute a gentle phenolic grip an advantage over its parents. Yields must be controlled; if overcropped, aromatics flatten and the wine loses its distinctive spice. In the right sites, however, Pálava develops a layered aromatic profile while maintaining enough acidity to avoid heaviness. The result is unmistakable: a wine that marries Traminer’s rose‑petal aromatics with the gentle acidity and orchard‑fruit charm of Müller‑Thurgau.

Sonberk Winery stands on a vineyard site cultivated since at least the 13th century, historically prized for its south‑facing slopes overlooking the Pálava Hills in the Mikulov subregion. Founded in 2003, the modern winery was built in 2008 and is recognized as one of Czechia’s first examples of contemporary wine architecture. Sonberk farms roughly 40–45 hectares on loess soils and produces acclaimed whites - especially Riesling, Pálava, Traminer, and Sauvignon - known for focusing on low yields, hand harvesting, and meticulous vineyard work to highlight the character of Mikulov's limestone terroir. 

"One of Pálava's greatest strengths is its versatility. Few aromatic varieties are capable of expressing themselves so convincingly across different levels of sweetness. In our experience, a near-dry style with around 5–6 g/L of residual sugar offers exceptional harmony at the table, allowing the wine's freshness and aromatics to shine. At the same time, Pálava can achieve extraordinary results in sweeter styles, including traditional straw wines with residual sugar levels approaching 190 g/L, where its floral character and exotic fruit notes gain impressive depth and complexity. **"

The winery's approach to Pálava is deliberately restrained: fermentations are cool, aromatics are preserved, and residual sugar is kept in balance with acidity. The result is a style that feels modern and architectural --aromatic but not exaggerated, textured but never heavy. Sonberk’s Pálava typically shows layers of white peach, lychee, citrus blossom, and ginger, grounded by a mineral line that reflects the vineyard’s limestone base. 

At the Embassy, we started with the 2024 Pálava, their everyday offering that, besides the strong floral aromas, shows tropical notes such as guava and peaches, some ginger, and all within a surprisingly fuller body. Expect minerality racing through the finish. The second expression was the Pálava 2024 VOC which shared similar traits as the previous with additional spice and texture from the oak treatment.  The wine is produced under the VOC (Wine of Original Certification) appellation system, which guarantees the wine's origin and typicity. This wine provides both charm and structure. The winery believes both wines are ready for the international market. I heartily concur. 

These wines are available through Wine of Czech Republic.

** Thank you to Kristína Eibl, Head of Marketing & Events at Sonberk Winery for most of the information about Pálava and the vineyard photos. 

Grape Spotlight: Moravian (Slovácko) Cabernet Cortis Courtesy of Vinařství Spěvák

Cabernet Cortis is a dark-skinned grape variety developed in 1982 by breeder Norbert Becker at the State Wine Institute in Freiburg, Germany. It is a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon (the mother vine) and Solaris (the father vine). Solaris, itself, is a complex hybrid involving Merzling, Zarya Severa, and Muskat Ottonel.  The grape variety was designed for cooler climates with the intention to combine vinifera character with improved disease resistance. The grape ripens earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon, maintains acidity in warm years, and delivers a flavor profile that leans toward blackcurrant, forest berries, herbal spice, and cocoa.

The grape has found a home in South Moravia, the Czech Republic's viticultural engine responsible for the majority of Czech wine production (96%) where the soil is a mosaic of loess, limestone, sand, and ancient seabed deposits. The region sits at the intersection of Pannonian warmth and Central European coolness, creating ideal conditions for aromatic whites and structured, cool‑climate reds. Cabernet Cortis thrives in the region’s warm summer days followed by cool autumn nights and offer growers reliable ripening without sacrificing character. 

Drilling into Moravia's subregions, the Slovácko sub-region lies in the south-east of Moravia, nestled between Austria and Slovakia, and is endowed with very diverse natural conditions. The southern part of Slovácko is taken up by the land of Podluží. Most of the wine villages lie along the Morava River which is cooled by north-westerly breezes. As a cool continental wine growing-region, it is located along the same latitude as Alsace in France, Baden in Germany or Weinviertel in Austria. 

"The micro-climate conditions within the close proximity of Dubnany are quite unique: the rolling hills (referred to as Moravian Toscany and sought after by acclaimed photographers) at a low altitude of no more than 200 meters [600 ft] above sea level, situated in the valley of Morava River, provide slope and aspect to the vineyards. The light black soils intensify the temperatures during hot and dry summers, moderated by the north-east winds, and help extend the growing season well into late October. Some vineyards are located atop a dead mud volcano, giving the terroir a mineral to ashy undertone. Others are abundant with heavy clay which helps with water retention during the hot summer months." -- Vinařství Spěvák

Located in Dubňany, Vinařství Spěvák is a family‑run estate known for expressive, fruit‑forward wines crafted using both classic Moravian varieties and a selection of modern crossings such as Cabernet Cortis. The winery originated behind the Iron Curtain as a family vineyard for Frantisek and Marie Spěvák while Frantisek worked as a head agronomist at a large co-op.  As a bonus, he was fortunate enough to study under Professor Vilem Kraus, an educator, expert and published author on viticulture at Mendel University in Brno. Following the Velvet Revolution (1989) and the legalization of private business establishment (1990), Vinařství Spěvák became fully licensed and official the same year as the dissolution of Czechoslovakia -- 1993. Over the next 20+ years, two sons David and Frantisek Jr., graduated from the Vocational Viniculture School in Valtice and returned to help manage the winery's operations. 

Spěvák operates several vineyards within Slovácko, most situated in the Lower Morava Valley, with a diverse planting of over 30 grape varieties. They have been growing Cabernet Cortis for quite awhile and leverage the  the grape’s natural structure: medium body, ripe tannins, and a flavor profile that moves from blackcurrant and forest berries to cocoa and subtle spice. Their bottlings age well, benefiting from both barrel and bottle maturation - an attribute the family winemakers themselves emphasize as central to their craft. Case in point the Moravian Red Cabernet Cortis 2017 should be a cult classic. It is very concentrated for a medium‑bodied wine with layers of black forest fruit coated in dark chocolate, and firm yet approachable tannins. Plus vibrant acidity. All in a wine that is almost a decade old. A fantastic offering. 

Spěvák wines are available through Wills International.

Grape Spotlight: The Stover Grape

"The Stover grape is a hybrid cultivar developed by the University of Florida’s breeding program. It is a yellow/bronze small grape. The flavor is mild and free from excessive sweetness or tartness. Clusters are medium size and the sugar content is 17-18% with a mild taste. ‘Stover’ is a golden-fruited, long-lived variety with improved dessert and holding qualities. The fruit ripens in July and August." - Fiorelli Winery

Specifically, the Stover grape cultivar was developed at the Leesburg Agricultural Research Center and is named in honor of Loren Stover (1898–1993), Florida’s "Mr. Grape". Stover was a pioneering horticulturist who developed this variety in 1956 to be resistant to Pierce’s disease and other fungal issues prevalent in Florida’s humid climate. The cultivar is a cross between Mantey and Seyve‑Villard 12‑309. Mantey is a self‑fertile seedling of unknown parentage, but derived primarily from Vitis coriacea Shuttleworthii and contributes disease resistance, heat tolerance, and adaptation to the southeastern U.S. Seyve‑Villard 12‑309 or Roucaneuf (developed by breeder Bertille Seyve at the Seyve‑Villard program in France) is complex French hybrid with ancestry rooted in V. vinifera and V. rupestris and contributes fruit quality, cluster structure, and improved table‑grape characteristics.

Fiorelli Winery & Vineyard, located just outside Bradenton Florida, grows Stover and uses the grape in their semi-sweet Chill white white wine. The winery was founded in 1998 by Antonio and Rosa Fiorelli, Sicilian immigrants from Casteldaccia.  Antonio began cultivating the estate with fruit bearing trees and a few grape vines and soon the operation expanded to 7.5 acres of vines and a full estate operation with dedicated production and tasting facilities. The grapes consist of several Florida‑adapted muscadine varieties -- including Noble, Carlos, and other bronze and black muscadines -- along with bunch‑grape hybrids such as Blanc du Bois and Conquistador. Their portfolio includes dry to semi‑sweet table wines, muscadine‑based reds and blushes, and fruit wines made from blueberry, strawberry, peach, and apple. 

Grape Spotlight: San Marco from Trentino-Alto Adige to the Outer Coastal Plain AVA

San Marco is a Vitis vinifera red wine grape created in 1993 by breeder Marco Stefanini at the Fondazione Edmund Mach in Trentino-Alto Adige. It is a cross of the very popular Trentino-Alto Adige grapes Teroldego × Lagrein in order to create a wine grape that ripens fully in cooler climates; resist botrytis better than its parents; and still produced deeply colored and structured wines. 

In 2011, Larry Coia of Bellview Winery visited the Foundation Edmund Mach and learned about EC02 - the name originally given to this grape. Trentino-Alto Adige experiences hot summers, cold winters, and significant diurnal shifts which are conditions similar to parts of the U.S. East Coast. Thus, through his recommendation,  the following year the Outer Coastal Plain Vineyard Association (OCPVA) imported the grape into the U.S.. Following release from quarantine, the OCPVA trademarked the name as San Marcus and through a petition from Bellview Winery, the TTP approved use of San Marco as a registered grape variety.

The Outer Coastal Plain AVA, established in 2007 and expanded in 2017, stretches across 2.25 million acres of southern and southeastern New Jersey, making it one of the largest and most quietly influential winegrowing regions on the East Coast. The region’s defining feature is its uniform soil profile—well‑drained sandy and sandy‑loam soils derived from ancient coastal sediments, naturally low in fertility and pH, which help control vine vigor and encourage deep rooting. Climatically, the AVA benefits from a 188‑ to 217‑day growing season, moderate rainfall, and the moderating effects of the Atlantic Ocean and Delaware Bay, which reduce frost risk and temper heat spikes.

San Marco thrives in environments with hot summers, cold winters, and when planted in sandy and clay soils. It buds late helping to shield from Spring frost and produces medium sized and loose clusters. It seems more suited for VSP training and shares a similar late-midseason harvest as Cabernet Franc. Although it is resistant to botrytis, it is not resistant to black rot or downy mildew.

Autumn Lake Winery, located in Williamstown, New Jersey, is one of the Outer Coastal Plain AVA producers actively developing and releasing wines from San Marco. I was able to sample their 2021 San Marco at the 2026 Eastern Winery Exposition and was impressed with the dark fruit, structure, and smooth tannins shown by this wine. 

Grape Spotlight: Montenegrin Krstač with 13. Jul – Plantaže

Montenegro’s wine-growing region near Lake Skadar, just 30 kilometers from the Adriatic Sea, is defined by its dramatic geography. The area is bordered by the high mountains of the Dinaric Alps, the Cijevna River, and the Skadar Lake basin, creating a Mediterranean-continental climate with hot summers and mild winters. Soils are diverse, with karst limestone, alluvial deposits, and red clay, supporting a range of indigenous and international grape varieties.

At the heart of this region lies Ćemovsko Polje, one of the largest vineyards in Europe, spanning 2,300 hectares, hosting over 11.5 million vines, and located only 18 miles from the Adriatic Sea. This single complex vineyard is the flagship of 13. Jul – Plantaže, Montenegro’s leading wine producer. The vineyards are boarded on one side by the Cijevna  -- a subterranean river which broke through the rocks and created a picturesque canyon leaving layers of different types of stone where the vines were eventually planted. 

The vineyard is situated on a plateau with an altitude between only 150 and 230 feet and it is surrounded by limestone hills, which defines it as a karst valley with extremely hot and dry summer and slightly cooler winter than in the coastal zone. The area receives an extremely limited amount of precipitation and plenty of sunny hours. But this scorching sun, which shines up to twelve hours a day during the summer is a major challenge along with the skeletal soil composed of chalky limestone, sand and gravel-strewn with many polished pebbles. 

Krstač is a rare, indigenous white grape variety native to Montenegro. It thrives in the warm, dry conditions of Ćemovsko Polje and is known for its delicate floral aromas, crisp acidity, and subtle minerality. Wines made from Krstač are typically dry, light-bodied, and refreshing, often showing notes of white peach, pear, and citrus zest. It has a tight, medium sized cluster that is shaped like a cross -- leading to the name Krstač or Crusader in English. 

13. Jul – Plantaže was founded in the 1960s emerging from a consolidation of farms in Podgorica, Danilovgrad, and Virpazar. Today, it is Montenegro’s largest wine producer and a regional powerhouse, exporting to over 40 countries. According to their website, they are the only winery in the world that produces wine from Krstač.  The grapes harvested from their estate at Ćemovsko Polje are vinified and aged at three wine cellars Lješkopolje (the company’s oldest wine cellar), Ćemovsko Polje (where most of the wine production occurs), and Šipčanik (a former military bunker). 

The grapes for their 2023 Crnogorski Krstač were harvested from Ćemovsko Polje vines with the juice fermented and aged on its lees in stainless steel tanks. This is a surprisingly complex wine, a floral aroma, plenty of green apple and stone fruit, minerality, and a racy elevated finish. Love the acidity. 

Grape Spotlight: Peña Garnacha and the Calatayud DO

Calatayud is a high‑altitude appellation in Aragón in northeastern Spain, set among rugged hills and river valleys shaped by the Jalón and Jiloca rivers. Vineyards here sit between 650 and 900 meters (2,100–3,000 feet), making it one of Spain’s highest red‑wine regions. The climate is continental—hot, dry summers; cold winters; and wide day‑night temperature swings that help preserve acidity. Much of the terrain is a patchwork of slate, schist, and iron‑rich clay, soils that stress the vines just enough to concentrate flavor. Although winegrowing in the area dates back to Roman times, Calatayud’s modern revival has centered on reclaiming old bush‑trained vineyards and spotlighting Garnacha as the region’s signature grape.

Garnacha thrives in this environment. The grape ripens late and handles heat and drought well, but in Calatayud the altitude adds freshness and structure. Many of the vines are 40–100 years old, low‑yielding plants with deep roots and naturally small clusters. Wines from these vineyards tend to be deeply colored, with red and black fruit, herbal notes, and a firm mineral line from the stony soils. The combination of elevation and old vines gives Garnacha from Calatayud a balance that’s harder to achieve in warmer, lower‑lying areas.

Peña -- crafted by Master of Wine Norrel Robertson -- is one of the labels that captures this style cleanly. The wine is sourced from older bush vines planted on rocky slopes, where the soils are thin and the yields modest. In the glass, Peña Garnacha (aka "Garnacha Club") is medium‑bodied with ripe red fruit—cherry, raspberry, and a touch of plum—supported by subtle spice and a faint earthiness. The acidity is bright, a hallmark of the region’s elevation, and the tannins are gentle but present. It’s a straightforward, honest expression of Calatayud: fruit‑driven, lifted, and shaped by the landscape rather than heavy winemaking.

Grape Spotlight: Serbian Tamjanika from Milosavljević Winery

It was fortuitous that our Christmas Eve dinner at Ambar included a bottle of the Milosavljevic Winery Tamjanika Vila Vina. Tamjanika is an autochthonous Serbian variety where the grape’s etymology translates to incense and in old Slavic, Frankincense.  The grape is thought to be a local clone of Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains -- the oldest member of the Muscat family and one of the oldest grape varieties in the world. The variety is named for its small berries and seeds (petits grains) which leads to a range of citrus, floral and spice aromas, with a full, dry palate. 

Tamjanika shares the intensely pronounced muscat aroma and flavor. On the nose, it is richly floral and fruity; in addition to jasmine, strawberries, peaches, and honey, it is sometimes accompanied by notes of citrus and tropical fruit. On the palate, it is refreshing with a long and pleasant finish.  And that is the case with this Tamjanika Vila Vina. It is straw yellow in color and exudes that favorably muscat aroma followed by a pleasant herbaceousness, stone fruit, and spicy palate. 

The grapes for this wine were grown in the village of Bucje, Serbia, on the right bank of the Zapadna Morava River, where vine cultivation dates back to Roman times. The Tamjanika vines were planted about 1200 feet above sea level and are farmed as sustainably as possible including the use of grass and beneficial flora between rows to support ecological balance.  

The Milosavljevic Winery is a family-owned winery that was founded in 1978 by Branisav Milosavljević as a brandy producer, then added wine to the portfolio in 1980.  This laid the foundation for the current winery which was re-incorporated in 2006 by Milomir Milosavljević as a family winery and introducing the Vila Vina brand.  Milomir had spent 35 years in Switzerland, "learning from the best and adopting modern methods of viticulture and viticulture that included the precision of German winemakers and the sophistication of French winemakers". Today the winery is run by a triumvirate of  Milomir, his son Dragan, and Milomir's grandson Branko.

Grape Spotlight: Romania DOC Lechinţa, Valea Ascunsă Fetească Neagră

Courtesy of Premium
Wines of Romania 

Lechinţa DOC is a small appellation in Transylvania comprised of several villages located between the Someșul Mare and Mureș rivers at the foothills of the Carpathian Mountains. Viticulture has been a feature of the area for years but like everywhere else in Romania the wine scene has seen decades of stagnation. Only recently has viticulture returned to Transylvania beginning to rebuild its reputation and Lechinţa is an emerging appellation. 

The geography of Transylvania is favorable to grape-growing as it spans the 47th parallel, very similar to southern Alsace and northern Burgundy. It has a temperate-continental climate providing hot, dry summers; warm autumns; and cold, harsh winters -- with regular snowfalls.   The Lechinţa DOC is dominated by brown and clay-iluvial soils, rich in calcium and iron. Vineyards are typically planted at 300-500 meters (1,000-1,600 feet) high. White wine grapes such as the indigenous Fetească Albă and Fetească Regală dominate but there are significant plantings of Fetească Neagra.

Fetească Neagra is a dark-skinned red wine grape variety native to the Republic of Moldova and Romania, whose name means "black maiden". It is an attractive grape to winegrowers because it is resistant to both cold temperatures and drought conditions. The grape ripens late and has thick skins, leading to wines with an excellent concentration of anthocyanins which provide more pigment to the wines. Fetească Neagra wines are typically spicy, with smoky fruit characters and good tannin structure.

Valea Ascunsă (Hidden Valley Winery) is a new winery located in Teaca that farms at least 20 hectares in the Lechinţa DOC.  From these vines they produce the Roșu de Teaca (Red from Teaca), a wine my family brought home this summer after visiting Romania.  The wine is medium bodied with jammy red fruit, slightly spicy, and subtle chocolate. No smokiness, but plenty of acidity.  

Grape Spotlight: Maryland Regent from Burnt Hill Farm

The Regent Diamond is a 140.64-carat (28.128 g) diamond, classified as D color with a slight bluish tinge, cut into a cushion brilliant shape and internally flawless, making it one of the most historically significant and valuable diamonds in the world.  Discovered in India and cut in London, the diamond has adorned numerous French royal regalia - plus Napoleon - throughout history. Today it is hopefully secure at the Louvre and estimated to be worth US$60,000,000.  

With this background in mind, grape breeders at the Geilweilerhof Institute for Grape Breeding in Germany named a new hybrid after the diamond - the Regent grape. Big expectations. The grape was bred in 1967 by Professor Gerhardt Alleweldt with the intent to create a high-quality grape that could survive in cold climates.  He eventually crossed Diana (Silvaner × Müller-Thurgau) and Chambourcin - thus blending European vitus vinifera and French-hybrid genetics. After years of experimental plantings, the grape was officially released in 1996.

In general, Regent produces solid yields and is highly resistant to mildew diseases; the variety also has thick dark skins and an abundance of tannins. Chambourcin provides the resistance component whereas the Diana adds vinifera class. Unusually, Regent's flesh is stained red – a condition known as teinturier, and another indication that it is genetically geared toward producing powerful reds.

Regent has become a symbol of sustainable viticulture, reducing reliance on chemical sprays thanks to its natural resistance. This is what attracted Drew Baker, co-founder of Burnt Hill Farm, to organically farm grape on the their estate.  This fits into the regenerative farming philosophy espoused by Baker which we will highlight in more detail in a future post. In the meanwhile take a stroll through Regenerative Farming: Why the Fuss? which includes a video of Burnt Hill Farm. In general, they treat the farm as its own ecosystem and raise longwool sheep, woodland hogs, honey bees, log-grown mushrooms, heritage grains, and a small orchard. They even harvested dying ash trees to create foeders to ferment and age their wine.

The 2021 Single Barrel Selection RE - 01 Barrel 5 spent three years in one of these foeders before being bottled and released as a single barrel selection. Drew is very enthusiastic about this release and the future of Regent at Burnt Hill Farm.  This medium-full bodied wine reminded me of a partnership between Petite Sirah and Chambourcin.  It appeared to have dark red fruit, more black pepper than spice, and more tannic structure than a typical Chambourcin. Plus an abundant supply of aromatics. Looks very promising. 

An Evening at the Embassy of the Republic of North Macedonia

Last week we attended an event through Embassy Experiences held at the Embassy of the Republic of North Macedonia.  We were drawn to the event specifically to try the Macedonia wines and food that were provided.  The Republic of North Macedonia is  located in the heart of the Balkan Peninsula in Southeast Europe.  It is situated in the northern part of the larger geographical region traditionally known as Macedonia, which is shared with Greece and Bulgaria. The country is bordered by Kosovo to the northwest, Serbia to the north, Bulgaria to the east, Greece to the south, and Albania to the west. 

Although a landlocked country (it is separated from the Adriatic Sea by Albania and the Aegean Sea by Greece), the republic has both continental and Mediterranean influences on its climate. Its northeastern corner is separated from the nearest coastline by 200km (125 miles), while Lake Doiran at its southeastern edge lies just 55km (35 miles) from the coastal Greek town of Thessalonika on the Thessalonian Gulf.  The main wine-growing regions here are Pcinja-Osogovo in the north, Pelagonija-Polog in the south and Povardarie (the central Vardar River valley). The republic as a whole has 23,000 hectares (56,850 acres) of wine vineyards and a slightly larger coverage of vines harvested for table grapes.

Courtesy of Tikveš Winery

Tikveš is a prominent winegrowing subregion within the Povardarie, or Vardar river valley. Tikveš the region is also readily confused with the country's largest wine producer of the same name (Tikveš winery), based in the town of Kavadartsi where the majority of vineyards in Tikveš lie. Founded in 1885 in a region with centuries-old winemaking tradition, Tikveš Winery is now celebrating 140 years of wine production. 

Courtesy of Tikveš Winery

At the embassy event, we were able to sample several wines from Tikveš Winery as well as a grape Rakija. The buffet consisted of an assortment of delicious Balkan cuisine featuring Tavče gravče, a hearty baked bean stew traditionally cooked in clay pots and seasoned with paprika, mint, and other spices. There was also Burek, grape leaves, plenty of rice and chicken, and pastries and other desserts. As for the wine, they poured a dry Cabernet Sauvignon and off-dry Vranec (Vranac) as well as a delicious dry Žilavka and off-dry Alexandria (Rhine Riesling, Chardonnay, Smederevka, Sauvignon Blanc).  Here are the winery's description of the two flagship wines. 

Tikveš Vranec
The name “Vranec” translates to “black stallion”, which reflects the grape’s dark color and powerful character with complex aromas. The wild nature of Vranec is tamed in this wine, characterized by a rich ruby color, a sweetish taste, full body, and a long finish. It features a myriad of aromas of ripe forest fruits, prunes, and spices

Tikveš Žilavka 
Žilavka is a dry white wine with a gentle and discreet scent of flowers and fresh and fruity taste. It is made from the indigenous grape variety of the same name, derived from ‘žilav,’ meaning ‘tough’ or ‘resilient’. This reflects the grape’s ability to withstand the hot climate, drought, and poor soils. Overall, Žilavka offers a delightful combination of vivid freshness, fruitiness, and minerality, making it a great choice for those seeking a unique and enjoyable experience.

Grape Spotlight: Shelburne Vineyard Lake Champlain Marquette

The Marquette grape was developed at the University of Minnesota as a high quality, cold hardy, and disease resistant wine grape and through multiple cross breeding is a cousin to Frontenac and a grandson of Pinot Noir.  It is renowned for its resilience in harsh climates, capable of surviving winter temperatures as low as --36°F when fully dormant, making it suitable for extreme cold-climate regions. It is highly disease-resistant, showing excellent resistance to downy mildew, powdery mildew, and black rot, and moderate resistance to black rot, which reduces the need for chemical treatments in vineyard management. 

The grape produces medium-bodied, dry red wines with a complex flavor profile featuring notes of cherry, blackberry, black currant, and spice, often accompanied by hints of black pepper, earthiness, and leather. The wines are typically medium-bodied with balanced acidity, soft tannins, and an attractive ruby color due to the thick, dark-blue skins of the small berries.  Marquette wines are often aged in French oak, enhancing their complexity and structure, and can have moderate aging potential, with higher-quality, oak-aged versions developing further complexity over 5–7 years.

The Marquette grape was released by the University of Minnesota in 2006 and Vermont's Shelburne Vineyard immediately planted vines - making these plots in the Champlain Valley the oldest in the Marble State. The Champlain Valley's unique terroir is shaped by the moderating influence of Lake Champlain, which provides a microclimate that warms vineyards in winter and cools them in summer, allowing for the cultivation of grapes and other produce. 

The Shelburne Vineyard 2021 Marquette shows alluring notes of cherry, berry, black pepper, and spice on both nose and palate finishing with refreshing acidity. Cheers.

Grape Spotlight & Effervescence Unleashed: Slavonija Sparkling Frankovka (Blaufränkisch) from Enosophia

The Slavonija wine region occupies the eastern inland third of Croatia, forming the largest wine-producing region in the country both in area and volume, with over 30 million liters of wine produced annually across 5,800 hectares of vineyards.

It is located in the Pannonian Basin, bordered by the Danube, Drava, and Sava rivers. Slavonija features a moderate continental climate with cold winters, hot summers, and high sunshine hours, which is ideal for viticulture -- a practice since the Roman times.  Vineyards are found planted on free-draining soils that sit atop gneiss and granite base soils. The various river systems create alluvial deposits that are well suited to the cultivation of vines.

There are six subregions of Salvonija: Daruvar, Dakovo, Feričanci, Kutjevo, Slavonski Brod and Orahovica. Enosophia (formerly Feravino) resides in Feričanci, a municipality in Osijek-Baranja County covering a total area of approximately 45.8 km² (17.7 sq mi) near the borders of Hungary, Serbia, and Bosnia. The winery itself is located in the village with the same name as the municipality. The name "Enosophia" is derived from Greek, meaning "wisdom of wine," reflecting the winery's deep-rooted tradition and its ambition to create a compelling wine story.

The original cellar was built in 1804 with the founding of a winery by the Mihalovićs -- a Croatian noble family from eastern Croatia. The Fericeva region (western Osijek-Baranja County) is known for its Graševina and Frankovka (Blaufrankish) and shares a similar tradition as Villany Hungary.  The current winery was established in the 1960s, privatized as an independent company in 1996, and in 2015 merged with the current owners Osilovac d.o.o.  

The Today Rosé sparkling wine is made from 100% Frankovka, the Croatian synonym for Blaufränkisch. The grape is grown widely in Central Europe and is also referred to as Lemberger, Kékfrankos, and Franconia. In the vineyard, Blaufränkisch buds early, ripens late, and delivers generous yields. It needs a warm environment to fully mature, which explains its distribution in wine regions close to the heat of the Pannonian Plain.  In general, the black-skinned grape provides juicy fruit with noticeable acids and tannins.

The sparkling wine was made using the Charmat method for production for the secondary fermentation. This is a process used to produce sparkling wine by trapping carbon dioxide in a large, pressurized stainless steel tank, or autoclave. It is very fruit forward as bright citrus notes advance with noticeable yeasty texture providing roundness and a pleasant mouthfeel. Lasting effervescence. 

The Today Rosé was purchased through Croatian Premium Wine Imports. 

Grape Spotlight: Maryland Teroldego

Teroldego is an ancient grape and it most likely originated in the Piana Rotaliana -- a large alluvial plain located in northern Trentino, Italy, situated between the Adige River and the Noce River. Written documentation dated to 1300 attests to its use in this region. And the knowledge of this grape spread after the Council of Trent (1545-63) as Bishops and their attendants most likely consumed Teroldego wine during the Council and then returned back to their dioceses with samples of the wine.

According to wine-searcher.com, DNA testing has revealed that Teroldego is a parent of Lagrein, and a sibling of Dureza, a parent of Syrah, thus making Syrah a "nephew" of Teroldego. The grape is known for producing deeply pigmented red wines with intense black cherry aromas, firm tannins, and refreshing acidity. It is characterized by high anthocyanin content, resulting in a dark color even in warm climates (anthocyanins are water-soluble vacuolar pigments). 

Teroldego loves soils that are well drained and rich in minerals: in the Piana the soil is made up of limestone, granite and porphyritic stones brought downstream by the Noce river. Growers encounter some other issues – the late-ripening grapes do not always reach full maturity in the cool alpine climate, and are prone to falling off bunches easily, especially in windy sites. In humid years, botrytis bunch rot can cause problems.

Outside of Vini del Trentino, Teroldego is planted in Tuscany; Sicily; Veneto; Lodi, California (see Peltier Winery and LangeTwins Winery); Clarksburg, California (Silt Wine Co. and Heringer Estates); the Finger Lakes, NY (Red Tail Ridge Winery); and in Maryland at Six Wicket Vineyards and and vinified at Catoctin Breeze Vineyard.

Six Wicket Vineyards is located in the Middletown Valley at the foothills of Maryland's Catoctin Mountains. They planted Teroldego in 2019 at 975 feet in elevation on weathered greenstone soils. Greenstone belts are ancient geological formations primarily composed of metamorphosed volcanic and sedimentary rocks, predominantly altered basalts, which have a characteristic green color due to the presence of minerals like chlorite, epidote, and actinolite formed under heat and pressure. 

The Catoctin Breeze Vineyard Teroldego 2020 is made from grapes sourced from Six Wicket Vineyards where the 2020 vintage was considered a very good year.  With no September rain, the grapes were able to ripen on the vine into mid-October allowing for optimal phenolic ripeness which the winery suggests "is proven in the delicate tannins and balanced acidity". After fermentation, the wine was aged for nine months in 37% new French oak.  The nose starts with noticeable spice and herbaceousness which is followed by a more delicate body than I had expected, soft tannins, and favorable acidity.  A charming wine.