Grape Spotlight: Rías Baixas, Val Do Salnés, Attis Bodega y Viñedos Souson

Did you know that red wine is being produced in Rías Baixas?

Val Do Salnés is the oldest of the five sub-regions in Rías Baixas and contains 64% of the region's vineyards. It features the most coastline with the Atlantic Ocean and is thus the coolest and dampest of the sub-regions with an average temperature of 59 degrees F.  The soils here are granite-based and quite rocky. These factors give the wines of  Val do Salnés abundant acidity and noticeable salinity. Like all of the sub-regions in Rías Baixas (See The Rías Baixas Roadshow 2023 - Part 1), the vast majority of the wines here are Albariño but Rías Baixas Tinto is a permitted class of wine that accounts for 1% of all production.  

One of these red grapes is Souson, which is synonymous to Vinhao (or Sousao) from just below the border in Portugal's Minho region and composing red Vinho Verde wines.  This is a dark-skinned grape variety indigenous to the western Iberian Peninsula. "It is used to make relatively light red-wine styles which are nonetheless deeply colored thanks to the grape skin's strong pigmentation. Its budding season is mid-late and its maturation cycle is long, so its location predominates in areas that are favorable for early ripening. It has high sensitivity to powdery mildew, medium to mildew and low to Botrytis". (wine-searcher)

Attis Bodega y Viñedos is situating in the center of Val do Salnés. Although dominate in Albariño, the winery also produces a Souson. All the vines grow on traditional pergolas and thus the grapes are somewhat protected from the humidity and moisture. The grapes must be tediously hand harvested and then are naturally fermented in open 500 liter barrels. The wine is then aged 12 months in new French oak barrels and fined with eggs and sea water. 

During The Rías Baixas Roadshow 2023 - Part 1, I sampled the Attis Souson 2016 ($40), where the intense color matches the fruit forward character. There's lively acidity and noticeable saline that extends long into each sip. 

Wines with Altitude: Domaine Bousquet from Gualtallary, Argentina

Imagine a 240 hectare wine estate located in the Andes foothills at an altitude of 4,000 feet above sea level.  The highest peaks in California's Sierra Nevada, Washington's Cascade Range, or many of Colorado's peaks are only 300-500 feet higher. In this environment, rainfall is scant, sunshine is plentiful, and the desert-like climate creates a massive 59° F day/night temperature differential. The area also has poor stony and alluvial soils that are interlaced with layers of sand and limestone. This diverse combination creates free-draining soils that, due to the already mentioned limited water availability, stress the vines.  The grapes react to these conditions by increasing skin tannins, concentrating flavor, and retaining acidity and aromas. 

The Domaine Bousquet estate is situated in the northern reaches of the Uco Valley, specifically in Gualtallary within the Tupungato mountain range. This massive Andean lava dome is one of the highest mountains in the Americas rising to 21,560 feet above sea level.  The winery's founder, Jean Bousquet, fell in love with the region during a vacation and returned in 1977 to plant this estate -- close to the very highest extremes of Mendoza's viticultural limits. There were many naysayers who doubted Bousquet's endeavor, but Jean believed "he’d found the perfect blend between his French homeland and the New World (sunny, with high natural acidity and a potential for relatively fruit-forward wines)". This feat was within the family winemaking tradition which goes back four generations in the South of France.  This tradition continued as Bousquet’s daughter, Anne Bousquet, and her husband Labid Al Ameri became investors and eventual owners of the family operation. And one last important feature, the estate is 100% certified organic.

Domaine Bousquet produces a range of still and sparkling wines released through almost a dozen brands leveraging the ability to plant multiple grape varieties such as Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot  Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, and the focus of this post: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. We received samples of two Méthode Traditionnelle sparkling wines, the Méthode Traditionnelle Chardonnay-Pinot Noir Brut NV ($18) and Méthode Traditionnelle Pinot Noir-Chardonnay Brut Rosé NV ($18). The first grape in each listing accounts for 75% of the blend and as expected the Rosé had a more red fruit character whereas the Chardonnay dominate Brut was more citrus and floral. And both shared a bready - yeasty character. What was unexpected was the softness of the effervescence and their lasting nature as well as noticeable minerality in both wines. Gualtallary's limestone soils may have something to do with this. 

At $18 retail SRP, these are tremendous values which we plan to have on hand during our Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays. Cheers. 

The Rías Baixas Roadshow 2023 - Part 1

Rías Baixas, Galician for "Lower Estuaries"

Recently I attended one stop on the Rías Baixas Roadshow 2023 that featured a masterclass presented by Advanced Sommelier, Erik Segelbaum and Master of Wine, Caroline Hermann. It also included a showroom tasting of the wines of Rías Baixas hosted by visiting wineries and representatives from the region. Whereas Albariño was the focus we learned several exciting new trends coming from Galicia. But first, a primer.

During the height of Greek civilization between 800-400 B.C., the Celts, who we now associate with Scotland and Ireland, ruled over most of Central and Western Europe. In fact, the Alps mountain range is named from the Celtic Alpes, which itself is derived from a pre-Indo-European base alb (hill). Over time the Celts were pushed to the extremes of Europe - including Galacia where the Romans referred to them as Celtiberians - regardless whether they were ethnic Celts or a mix with Iberian tribes. One of these tribes was known as the Gallaeci and they left behind cultural remnants like language, pagan festivals and bagpipes that endure today. The first winemakers were Roman, who conquered the Celts and firmly established viticulture and global trading. Winemaking practices in the region evolved further in the 12th Century with the arrival of Cistercian monks from France.

Spanish wine regions are usually noted for their dry desert-like conditions and bold red wines. The major exception to this rule is the Galicia region of north-western Spain, located along the Atlantic coastline and bordering Portugal to its south. This is a wet and green region, plenty of vegetation that feeds off the 71 inches of rain per year.   In this  moisture rich environment red wines are a rarity and the white Albariño grape dominates. In fact it consists of 95% of all grape plantings and is the primary reason that the DO Rías Baixas denomination was created in 1980.

DO Rías Baixas encompasses five distinct sub-regions which form around the lower estuaries. Ribeira do Ulla is the newest (formed in 2000) and is the most northern region. Val do Salnés is known as the birthplace of the Albariño grape. This is the original and oldest sub-region and it's fingers reach out into the Atlantic.  Soutomaior is the smallest of the sub-regions and was registered in 1996. Soils are light and sandy over granite bedrock. Condado do Tea (The County of Tea) is named after the river Tea, a tributary of the Miño River which separates the border with Portugal. O Rosal also resides against the Miño River -- adjacent to the Atlantic.

Because of the high rainfall and humidity grape vines are widely spaced and trained on stone pergolas and a wire trellis called a “parra".  These parras can reach up to seven feet tall, allowing breezes to prevent mildew and to promote even ripening. During harvest, workers must stand on grape bins in order to collect the grape bunches.

Despite the high rainfall amounts,  Rías Baixas vineyards are blessed with ample sunshine - averaging over 2,200 hours of sunshine per year. This sunshine in conjunction with the cooler climate provides an environment for high natural grape acidity. Albariño wines are also known for their floral and mineral character, most likely impacted soil composition within Rías Baixas. The bedrock is primarily hard granite with a top layer of  mineral-rich alluvial (a combination of clay, silt, sand and gravel) formed from deposits eroded from flowing water.

DO Rías Baixas Wine Types:

• Rías Baixas - 100% sourced from DO Rías Baixas.
• Rías Baixas Albariño -100% Albariño, grapes can be sourced from any sub-zone.
• Rías Baixas Val do Salnés - 100% Val do Salnés, 70% Albariño.
• Rías Baixas Condada do Tea - 100% Condada do Tea, 70% Albariño & Treixadura.
• Rías Baixas Rosal - minimum blend 70% Albariño & Loureiro.
• Rías Baixas Barrica – wines aged in oak (red or white), minimum 11.5% abv.
• Rías Baixas Tinto – red wine, less than 1% of all production. 
• Rías Baixas Espumoso – traditional method sparkling, minimum nine months on less.

According to the Roadshow, "the accepted theory regarding the origin of Albariño, which is now backed by genetic research, is that the renowned grape is native to Rías Baixas. This evidence is further supported by Albariño’s ability to naturally thrive in the region’s cool, wet growing conditions. Given Albariño’s distinct characteristics, it is perfectly suited to the region's climate and terroir, producing wines that are truly unique. The influence from the Atlantic Ocean air, long sunshine hours, cool nights, heavy rainfall and mineral-rich granite and schist soils create an environment that yields the purest expression of Albariño which cannot be found anywhere else in the world".

Check back for Part 2 when we discuss these Albariño expressions.

East Tennessee History at Old Tennessee Distilling Company

Sevierville is a popular exit off Route 40, not only because it is nestled in the foothills of the Great Smoky Mountains and feeds into Pigeon Forge & Gatlinburg but because, itself, has multiple tourist attractions such as hiking, rafting, kayaking, Brass Pro, Buc-ee's, Tennessee Smokies MiLB, Harley Davidson, and, of course, Old Tennessee Distilling Company.

This distillery was first known as Thunder Road Distillery when it debuted in 2014 but rebranded to Old Tennessee Distilling Co. in Jan 2019 in order to "celebrate the culture, people, history and spirits of this great state". And during a visit make sure you take time to learn about this history. For instance, their Dumplin Creek brand of moonshine, vodka and gin honors the Treaty of Dumplin Creek: the last treaty of the State of Franklin and the Great Cherokee Nation. This treaty ceded the territory now known as East Tennessee to residents of the unrecognized proposed state that eventually returned to North Carolina. In addition, their Caldonia Fackler Johnson Rum brand celebrates the life of this former slave who became a prominent Knoxville racetrack and saloon owner. By the time of his death, he was one of the wealthiest African-Americans in the state.

Old Tennessee Distilling Company specializes in farm to bottle spirits made from "local ingenuity and produce". Their master distillers (Dwight Bearden, Adam Gratz, & Kent Merritt) use "recipes handed down through the generations to create whiskey, moonshine, gin, vodka and bourbon that honors the name “Tennessee” on every label". One of these is their Apple Brandy, distilled from Gala apples based on a recipe from a member of the Moonshiner's show, and full of bright apple flavors. For the moonshine, their Coffee was my favorite. And don't overlook their Corn Whiskey which is distilled from 100% corn mash. 

Navigating the Bayou Teche

A bayou is a body of water typically found in a flat, low-lying area. It may refer to an extremely slow-moving stream, river (often with a poorly defined shoreline), marshy lake, wetland, or creek.

The Bayou Teche is the most famous bayou in The Pelican State, curling for miles through south central Louisiana, west of the Atchafalaya Swamp.  This bayou runs through multiple parishes and there are several notable towns that were built along the Bayou Teche such as Breaux Bridge (the crawfish capital), St. Martinville (of Evangeline fame), New Iberia (home to rice, sugar cane and TABASCO), Charenton (the site of the Chitimacha Indian reservation, noted for its exquisite double-walled cane baskets), Patterson (Louisiana Aviation and Cypress Sawmill Museum) and Morgan City (home to the first submersible oil drilling rig, the Mr. Charlie).  And let's not forget Arnaudville, the home of Bayou Teche Brewing.

The brewery was founded in 2009 by brothers Karlos, Byron and Dorsey Knott within a converted old rail car near the banks of the Bayou Teche. Their goal is to brew beers that complement the unique foods and lifestyles of South Louisiana. This includes offering brewery tours in French and English and naming most of the beers in Cajun French in an effort to help preserve and promote the native language. These beers include LA 31 Acadie, name in memory of their Acadian homeland in Eastern Canada; LA-31 Bière Pâle, brewed to pair with dishes savored in South Louisiana (boudin, crab and shrimp gumbo, fried catfish, sauce piquant); and LA 31 Cocodrie DDH IPA, where Cocodrie is Cajun-French for alligator. Many of these beers are prefaced with LA-31 which honors part of the Bayou Teche National Scenic Byway which shadows the Bayou Teche from Arnaudville to Morgan City.

On our visit I paired a delicious pizza with a flight containing the LA-31 Bière Pâle, LA-31 Swamp Thing IPA, Ragin' Cajuns Kölsch, and a Zwickelbier. I love the Pale Ale, the brewery's flagship, brewed with pilsner and oats, slightly hazy, and with a decent supply of Mosaic and Citra hops. The Swamp Thing is a very clean and drinkable "Louisiana-style" IPA brewed with Mosaic, Citra and Chinook hops. How could I not try the Kölsch - one of my favorite styles and this one "made to represent the culture and heritage of Acadiana and the University of Louisiana: ça va mieux avec des amis - It's better with Friends." Finally the Zwick or Kellerbier is a very refreshing unfiltered lager brewed for German Fest. 

Avery Island & TABASCO®: Where Bourbon Barrels Find Rest

"TABASCO® Brand products are made by McIlhenny Company, founded by Edmund McIlhenny in 1868 on Avery Island, Louisiana. It was here that he developed the recipe for TABASCO® Original Red Pepper Sauce that's been passed down from generation to generation. To this day, the company is still family-owned and -operated on that very same island". -- TABASCO® Brand Website

During this trip to Cajun Country we allocated time to visit the TABASCO® Brand Factory Tour & Museum, located southwest of New Iberia on Avery Island. This is not an island in the traditional sense. Instead it is one of five salt domes formed as the weight of younger sediment pushed up a column of salt deposited over 165 million years ago creating a topographic rise. Locally, the geological formation is known as “island” because of its height relative to the neighboring land and insular appearance from a distance.  The five islands are also surrounded by salt marshes, cypress swamps, and\or bayous. Over the last two centuries these island have served as wildlife sanctuaries as well as salt and petroleum fields. Not without mishaps. During a visit to Jefferson Island and their gardens we learned of the Lake Peigneur catastrophe. 

Before the Civil War, Hagerstown Maryland born Edmund McIlhenny was a successful and wealthy independent bank owner married to Mary Eliza Avery -- who's family lived on a plantation house on Avery Island. By the end of the war and with the South's economic collapse, McIlhenny had lost everything. He and Mary Eliza moved in with her parents on Avery Island where McIlhenny started experimenting with Capsicum frutescens -- now known as Tabasco peppers. His goal was to invigorate the bland southern cuisine with a new pepper sauce.  

"McIlhenny grew his first commercial pepper crop in 1868. The next year, he sent out 658 bottles of sauce at one dollar apiece wholesale to grocers around the Gulf Coast, particularly in New Orleans. He labeled it “Tabasco,” a word of Mexican Indian origin believed to mean “place where the soil is humid” or “place of the coral or oyster shell.” McIlhenny secured a patent in 1870, and TABASCO® Sauce began its journey to set the culinary world on fire. Sales grew, and by the late 1870s, he sold his sauce throughout the U.S. and even in Europe".

While today the production process is mostly automated and the peppers are grown worldwide , the recipe and process are relatively the same as in the early years. Only the oak aging takes a little longer. The peppers are crushed and the mash is stored for three years in white oak barrels (which previously held bourbon or whiskies).  The inside of each barrel is de-charred (top layer of wood is removed), torched, and cleaned, to minimize the presence of any residual whiskey. In addition, the barrels are rehooped with stainless steel rings.. Once closed, the barrel tops are then sealed with salt to form a natural protective barrier that also allows for the release of gases produced during the slow fermentation process. After three years the mash is mixed with distilled vinegar and stirred occasionally for a month. The resulting liquid is strained to remove skins and seeds and then bottled as a finished sauce. 

The McIlhenny Company produced only the original version up until 1993, when the company released the Green Pepper Sauce. Today they have nine varieties, all conveniently available for purchase at the TABASCO® Country Store.  This store is located next to the museum entrance where the self-guided walking factory tour begins.  The entire Avery Island Experience which includes the factory tour and Jungle Gardens & Bird City driving tour is highly recommended. 

Grape Spotlight: Masciarelli Trebbiano d'Abruzzo

Abruzzo is a naturalist's dream "as half of the region's territory is protected through national parks and nature reserves, more than any administrative region on the continent, leading it to be dubbed 'the greenest region in Europe'".  That could be why it has been occupied since the "Neolithic era, with the earliest artifacts dating to beyond 6,500 BC. In the 6th century BC, the Etruscans introduced viticulture into the area which continued with the Romans -- who contributed to much of Abruzzo’s recognizable history.  Even after the fall of Rome, the Lombards, Byzantines, Magyars, and Normans successively imparted some type of influence in Abruzzo.   Throughout these periods, viticulture has been a constant with multi-generation small plots, sometimes less than a few hectares, being passed down through successive generations. 

Abruzzo is located directly east of Rome and bordered by the Molise wine region to the south, the Marche to the north, the Lazio to the west, and the Adriatic to its east.  It is further divided into several sub-regions: Chieti, Pescara, Controguerra, Teramo, and L’Aquila (L’Aquilano) -- with Chieti being the prime winemaking region (75% of vineyards).  Most of Abruzzo is rugged with  65% mountainous with this landscape assisting grape growing by blocking most storms from the west. And to the east, the Adriatic Sea provides a moderating Mediterranean climate for these vineyards; vines that are predominately planted in calcareous clay soils.

The most popular grape varieties in all sub-regions are Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Trebbiano d'Abruzzo.  Last week we focused on Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and now Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, both through the wines of Masciarelli. Trebbiano is grown throughout Italy, but in Abruzzo, Trebbiano Abruzzese is a different clone, an ancient version indigenous to the region.  The wines are generally "golden in color, typically dry but fruit-forward, with a delicate bouquet and refreshing, crisp acidity".  -- wine-searcher.com

The only Abruzzo producer with vineyards in all four provinces (Chieti, Pescara, Teramo, l’Aquila), Masciarelli wines demonstrate the diversity of Abruzzo terroir.  The winery was founded in the early 1980s by Gianna Masciarelli when produced the first vintage of wine from 2.5 hectares of vines he had planted in land owned by his grandfather near the family home in the province of Chieti. Over the next couple decades production increased as more estates were planted and Gianna introduced several innovations to the region. He was the first to introduce the Guyot training system in Abruzzo and use French oak barrels to age Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.  Tragically Gianna died suddenly in 2008 but his wifie of almost 20 years, Marina Cvetić, seamlessly continued the progress towards higher quality and expansion. Today, their eldest daughter Miriam Lee manages the winery with Marina and they focus on keeping all wines estate grown while expanding plantings, transitioning to organic viticulture, and dialing back the use of oak.

The Masciarelli Trebbiano d'Abruzzo DOC 2022 ($16) is a friendly wine with a floral aroma, flavors of stone peaches and creamy lemons and a refreshingly acidic finish. It is fermented and aged in stainless steel and like the Masciarelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC, the grapes are sourced from several of the estate vineyards in Chieti, Pescara, & Teramo. 

Academy du Rhône Wine - Washington D.C. Edition

"Vinsobres or sober wine, drink it soberly".. Monseigneur Joseph Marie de Suarès (Bishop of Vaison-La-Romaine) in1633

The Rhône Valley is a diverse and complex wine region that I've been slowly trying to comprehend. In 2023 I started with a Côtes du Rhône Online Wine Academy course in April and attended the Academy du Rhône Wine this month in Washington D.C. The Academy was hosted by Master Sommelier David Keck and showcased 18 wines from various appellations within the Rhône Valley all the while discussing the grapes and terrior within each region. The Rhône Valley is located in southeast France between Lyon and Marseille and is sub-divided into Northern and Southern regions. Southern Rhône is sandwiched between Provence to the east and Languedoc-Roussillon to the west and is known for its Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre (GSM) blends. On the other hand, Syrah is the champion of the Northern Rhône with  Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier its white counterparts. Overall, the Rhône Valley accounts for 9% of all French vineyards and ranks 2nd by volume for all French AOC wine regions.

The Rhône Valley's wine history is quite fascinating and starts three hundred million years ago as the Massif Central clashed with the Alps creating the valley and then flooding from the Mediterranean populated the valley’s soils with four different types of rock: granite, sandy silica, limestone and clay. This created conditions for the Greeks & Romans to apply viticulture which continued through the Avignon Popes up to the 1930's when Baron Le Roy championed the creation of the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée system. The Rhône Valley was granted AOC status in 1933. Read more of the Rhône Valley's entire history at the Vins Rhône website. 

In brief, there are 34 different grape varieties planted in the Rhône Valley and red wines account for 76% of production, rosé 13%, and whites 11%. The diverse landscape consists of five major soil types: clay, stony, limestone, granitic, and sandy soils. Again see Vins Rhône for a more detailed presentation. There are 31 appellations grouped within two major areas: Côtes du Rhône AOCs and Rhône Valley AOCs. The Côtes du Rhône AOC accounts for 75% of the overall production in the Rhône Valley and itself consists of a hierarchy starting with the  Côtes du Rhône Crus,  Côtes du Rhône Villages with a geographic name,  Côtes du Rhône Villages, and  Côtes du Rhône. Red wine accounts for 86% of overall Côtes du Rhône production,  rosé 8%, and whites 6%. The Rhône Valley AOCs are more prevalent in the Southern Rhône and are distributed in a wider area from the Rhone River. 

Whereas most of the 18 wines we sampled were from the Côtes du Rhône there were a handful from Rhône Valley AOCs with one I especially enjoyed, the M. Chapoutier La Ciboise Luberon 2022. This wine is a blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Ugni Blanc and Vermentino from the Luberon AOC. The vineyards for this appellation and high in elevation and surround the Luberon Natural Regional Park, part of UNESCO’s World Network of Biosphere Reserves. Luberon is dominated by small farmers and cooperatives and this region is one of France's sunniest with 320 sunny days each year. It also straddles Provence so the wines closely resemble that style in the sense of easy-drinking and value. This La Ciboise is a fresh and lively wine, yet creamy and structured, with noticeable citrus and stone fruit. 

Turning to the Côtes du Rhône, I want to focus on two wines from the tasting starting with the Southern Rhône Chateau de Rouanne 2020 AOC Vinsobres. The Vinsobres Crus commune has a long history of viticulture and the name is derived from "Vinzobrio, the oldest recorded version of the village name, dating back to 1137; this in turn is thought to derive from the pre-Celtic Vintio, meaning height, and the Celtic suffix briga (mountain)". It is one of the most northernly southern communes and thus shares many notable northern characteristics such as exposure to the mistral winds and a stronger reliance on Syrah. The vineyards are at high elevations and the vines are planted in very stony, red to brown soils where their warmth allows the vines to ripen early. This wine is a GSM blend of 50% Grenache, 40% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre  where whole clusters were vinified and aged in concrete vats using native yeasts. This is an elegant and complex wine, with juicy dark fruit, black pepper and earth, and silky tannins.  As the quote relates above, this is a sober (and serious) wine. 

Returning to the beginning of the session, the first flight featured wines from the AOC Côtes du Rhône. The entire appellation stretches from Vienne to Avignon and includes 171 communes across six departments: Ardèche, Drôme, Gard, Loire, Rhône and Vaucluse), covering an area of around 30,000 hectares. The climate is Mediterranean, refreshed by the cleansing and cooling Mistral wind. Summers are hot and dry, with occasional violent storms. Rainfall is low, and snow is rare.  One of my favorites of the initial flight was the Domaine de l'Odylée. La Talentuese 2020 -- a certified organic blend of Grenache and Syrah.  The wine ages 14 months in oak barrels and demi-muids which contributes to a it's depth and complexity. There's a slight earthiness and  herbaciousness on the nose followed by plums and raspberries and a spicy and firm finish. 

Hopefully I will have more content to post n this tasting and further exploration of the Rhône Valley.

Grape Spotlight: Masciarelli Montepulciano d'Abruzzo

Abruzzo is a naturalist's dream "as half of the region's territory is protected through national parks and nature reserves, more than any administrative region on the continent, leading it to be dubbed 'the greenest region in Europe'".  That could be why it has been occupied since the "Neolithic era, with the earliest artifacts dating to beyond 6,500 BC. In the 6th century BC, the Etruscans introduced viticulture into the area which continued with the Romans -- who contributed to much of Abruzzo’s recognizable history.  Even after the fall of Rome, the Lombards, Byzantines, Magyars, and Normans successively imparted some type of influence in Abruzzo.  Throughout these periods, viticulture has been a constant with multi-generation small plots, sometimes less than a few hectares, being passed down through successive generations. 

Abruzzo is located directly east of Rome and bordered by the Molise wine region to the south, the Marche to the north, the Lazio to the west, and the Adriatic to its east.  It is further divided into several sub-regions: Chieti, Pescara, Teramo, and L’Aquila (L’Aquilano) -- with Chieti being the prime winemaking region (75% of vineyards).  Most of Abruzzo is rugged with  65% mountainous with this landscape assisting grape growing by blocking most storms from the west. And to the east, the Adriatic Sea provides a moderating Mediterranean climate for these vineyards; vines that are predominately planted in calcareous clay soils.

The most popular grape varieties in all sub-regions are Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Trebbiano d'Abruzzo.  This week we will focus on Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and next week Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, both through the wines of Masciarelli.

Montepulciano  is a late-ripening, thick-skinned, deep-colored grape indigenous to Abruzzo. It provides a robustness that is balanced by considerable acidity and noticeable tannins. That profile means wines ranging from firmly structured and willing to age to lighter styles, including rosés with some heft, depending on decisions made in the vineyard and winery. The wines are known for their fruit and spice characters.

The only Abruzzo producer with vineyards in all four provinces (Chieti, Pescara, Teramo, l’Aquila), Masciarelli wines demonstrate the diversity of Abruzzo terroir.  The winery was founded in the early 1980s by Gianna Masciarelli when produced the first vintage of wine from 2.5 hectares of vines he had planted in land owned by his grandfather near the family home in the province of Chieti. Over the next couple decades production increased as more estates were planted and Gianna introduced several innovations to the region. He was the first to introduce the Guyot training system in Abruzzo and use French oak barrels to age Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.  Tragically Gianna died suddenly in 2008 but his wifie of almost 20 years, Marina Cvetić, seamlessly continued the progress towards higher quality and expansion. Today, their eldest daughter Miriam Lee manages the winery with Marina and they focus on keeping all wines estate grown while expanding plantings, transitioning to organic viticulture, and dialing back the use of oak.

The Masciarelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC 2020 ($16) is an example of the latter approach. This was the original wine that Gianna Masciarelli first produced back in 1981 and today is the company's best-selling product and the flagship of the Classic Line. The grapes are sourced from several of the estate vineyards in Chieti, Pescara, & Teramo and are fermented and aged in stainless steel. It is a juicy wine, showing dark berries and earthiness and lifted by sufficient acidity and approachable tannins. And appealing everyday wine. 

Herbal Liqueurs: Amaro y Arroyo

Continuing our discovery of Amaro herbal liqueurs, we recently purchased the Amaro y Arroyo from Copper Fox Distillery.  This is one of Virginia's oldest distilleries with locations in two important regions in the Commonwealth. Their original Sperryville home is located in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains just below the Panorama entrance to Skyline Drive and Shenandoah National Park. Their newer second home is located minutes from Colonial Williamsburg. 

The herbal liqueur is bittersweet and crafted using 25 different botanicals that are macerated in a bourbon mash spirit (produced with 100% Virginia grain), and aged in used Virginia bourbon barrels for a few months. The Amaro is then finished in used Virginia wine barrels infused with chestnut wood, local honey, agave, and cane sugar.

The cherry color masks a plethora of flavors: orange, honey, cinnamon, herbs. The finish is pleasantly lasting with a complex and bittersweet backbone.

From District Made to the Amalfi Coast in D.C.'s Ivy City

After a visit to the Franciscan Monastery of the Holy Land in America we decided to visit a couple of distilleries in nearby Ivy City starting with District Made Spirits. For those familiar with the D.C. spirits scene, two weeks ago this distillery was known as One Eight Distilling. But owners, Andy Wood and Alex Lauffer, now want to emphasize, not only their location in Washington D.C., but also their use of regional grains grown in Maryland and Virginia.  I chose a flight of their Core Spirits featuring their Ivy City Gin, Straight Rye Whiskey, and Straight Bourbon Whiskey. 

The Gin uses the District Made Vodka ($30) mash bill of 66% Abruzzi Rye,  28% Corn, and 6% Malted Rye which is then steeped with ten botanicals. These include Appalachian Allspice and Grains of Paradise for aromatics and a lower juniper profile. And from what I can glean, Abruzzi Rye is a cultivar that has higher yields than other rye varieties.  The District Made Ivy City Gin ($35) immediately brought thoughts of Negronis. Interestingly, we decided on purchasing a bottle of the vodka after a sample (1) because we didn't have any at home and (2) it contains noticeable creamy flavor.

The two whiskeys were also quite solid with the District Made Straight Rye Whiskey ($50) containing a little more malted rye than the gin and vodka with a mash bill of 57% Abruzzi Rye, 14% Corn, and 29% Malted Rye. This reminded me of Pennsylvania ryes, not a spice bomb, but reasonable levels of honeyed cinnamon and spice. I slightly preferred this over the District Made Straight Bourbon Whiskey ($50) which has a very unique recipe of 58% Corn, 16% Abruzzi Rye, 12% Malted Rye, 8% Hard Red Winter Wheat,  and 6% Malted Barley. Interestingly, the grains are distilled and aged in two batches, one with higher percentages of winter wheat and the other a higher percentage of rye. The final bottling uses a mixture of the different barrels. 

Our original destination for the day, Don Ciccio & Figli, is located directly across the street from District Made. This distillery has been operating in the District for over ten years, starting in 2012 and moving to the larger location in Ivy City in 2019. Providentially, owner Francesco Amodeo was manning the Bar Sirenis on our arrival and walked us through their history and a 17 Italian Herbal Liqueur and Cordial tasting kit. 

Amodeo was inspired to open the distillery based on a family heritage of distilling liqueurs on the Amalfi Coast. This tradition began in 1883 when Vincenzo Amodeo started creating liqueurs and devising a large collection of recipes.  The Amodeo family crafted these liqueurs up onto World War II when the stills were closed and the recipes locked away in order to rebuild the country. In 1951, Francesco Amodeo's grandfather Francesco, or Don Ciccio, resurrected the family tradition by building a distillery in the hills of Furore, near Positano and Capri. "The liqueurs are reborn, crafted exactly as they had been until 1931". Sadly, in 1980 an earthquake completely destroyed the distillery to rubble and it wasn't until 2012, in America, that the Amodeo family liqueurs were resurrected a second time. 

Today the distillery offers a plethora of herbal liqueurs, cordials, vermouths, spirits, and bottled cocktails. When you visit here some words of advice. (1) Do not order an Aperol Spritz. You will have your hand slapped. Bar Sirenis only serves cocktails using ingredients produced at the distillery. Instead, order an Ambrosia Spritz made using the Ambrosia Aperitivo -- a bittersweet Italian herbal liqueur made with turmeric, blood orange, cantaloupe, carrots and 9 botanicals. (2) Order the tasting tray. This provides a complete overview of their herbal liqueurs and cordials. 

Three of my favorite herbal liqueurs were the Amaro Delle Sirene (1931 recipe), Amaro Don Fernet (1915 recipe), and Cerasum Aperitivo (1906 recipe). They are all dispersed along the bitterness barometer and like all the products they start with 190 proof neutral grain spirits that is then macerated at room temperature with the respective recipe and then proofed down using purified water . The Fernet is made using 25 roots and herb focusing on mint, dark chocolate, ginger and saffron. The amaro then rests for 12 months in 250-liter French oak barrels provided by the Marisa Cuomo Winery on the Amalfi Coast. The Delle Sirene is made using 30 roots and herbs highlighting eucalyptus, ripe fruit and licorice. The amaro is also aged for one year using the same barrels. Finally the Cerasum is based on an infusion of 3 different kinds of cherries, sakura blossoms and 10 selected roots and herbs. We've already used this in a spritz and will be using in a Negroni at a later date - and its also excellent on its own. Saluti.

A Trio from El Coto de Rioja

El Coto de Rioja consists of twelve separate cellars and wineries, each designated with a distinct task. This includes the original winery that first opened in 1976, six years after their very first harvest. Today, that winery building operates as the administration offices, but there are new facilities that operate to process just white wines, others to just process Crianzas and Coto Real. Still another to age the Crianza and others for aging the Reservas and Grandes Reservas.  The vinification is carried out in small tanks that do not exceed 50,000 liters and all our red wines are aged in oak barrels, which are replaced annually. 

Last month I received samples from this brand that is a leader not only in Rioja, but all of Spain. 

El Coto Blanco 2022 ($11.99)
This wine is primarily Viura (with smaller percentages of Sauvignon Blanc and Verdejo) that was grown in the Finca Carbonera vineyard. This vineyard was first planted in 2010 right when the  Regulatory Council authorized the planting of white wine grape varieties. The additional of white wine became so popular that in 2017 El Coto built a separate facility at Finca Carbonera to process these grapes. This is a fundamental summer wine -- begging for shellfish. It starts with a floral aromas that transitions to a saline driven center of white peaches, white grapefruit, and lemon, then finishes with racy acids.

El Coto Rosé 2021 ($11.99)
This rosé is dominantly Tempranillo 10% Garnacha  harvested from the Los Almendros vineyards. This site is the largest vineyard in all of the Denomination of Origin Rioja. The wine is made in the Provence style with light pressing, short skin maceration, and fermenting under low temperatures. This rosé is all red berries but what separates it from others is a noticeable herbaceousness with slight tannins and a fuller body.

El Coto Crianza 2019 ($16.99)
This savory wine is composed of 100% Tempranillo and processed using the regional requirements -- fermented and aged in oak for at least 12 months with an additional six months resting in bottle, prior to release.  The wine starts with a vibrant aroma of dark fruit, tobacco, mint that leads to a juicy, earthy, and herbaceous core. The finish is long dominated by approachable tannins.

Les Vergers Lafrance - a Multiforme Cidrerie, Vignoble, Domaine, & Distillateur

Perhaps our favorite craft beverage stop during our Quebec visit was to Les Vergers Lafrance, a multifaceted establishment located just outside of Saint-Joseph-du-Lac. This municipality is surrounded by panoramic mountain views, orchards, and a truly rustic countryside.  LaFrance participates in providing these orchards with their 30 hectares of 13,000 apple trees, 4,000 grape vines, 500 pear trees and 250 plum trees. And the apple trees are distributed among 20 different apple varieties.  Besides les vergers, LaFrance is a cidery, winery, distillery, maple producer, and restaurateurs.

Vignoble Lafrance is composed of more than 4,000 grapevines, particularly all shades of Frontenac  and Sabrevois -- both cold climate grapes bred at the University of Minnesota. LaFrance uses the grapes exclusively for the production of spirits. One of these is their Dandy Gin which is a fruit distillate made from apple, pear and grape eau-de-vie as well as our Marc de Raisins eau-de-vie. The botanicals consist of selected herbs and apple tree flowers from the estate orchards. Need less to say, this gin is quite floral, with less juniper but more citrus. 

The distilling operation started in 2013, when Domaine Lafrance acquired an alembic still made in Bordeaux by the Stupfler family. This family has been producing stills for four generations starting in 1925. Lafrance produces almost a dozen spirits and aperitifs as well as a range of ready to drink cocktails. We also purchased a bottle of the Quartier Lafrance - a Grand Marnier inspired spirit made from 50% Georges-Étienne apple brandy and 50% caramelized orange liqueur. Try to beef up are cocktail options with this surprisingly drier and complex liqueur.

Les Vergers LaFrance is also a purveyor of maple products available in their Sugar Shack. The maple products are made from the syrup from 200 Maple trees that are processed in early Spring during sugar season. 

Despite all these endeavors, the prime focus of the enterprise is cider where they produce close to 20 different cider products. This includes the canned Bio Sparkling Organic Cider and Bio Organic Rosé Cider that complemented the suddenly sunny afternoon picnicking in front of the Boutique. Another easy option was the canned Darragon dit Lafrance sparkling cider. And please try the Rick Special blend #3, an unfiltered sparkling brut cider that was fermented in ice cider barrels.  We didn't sample any of the still ciders, but had to bring home a miniature of the Domaine LaFrance Ice Cider. I would have brought full 375ml bottles of all their ice ciders, but was leery of crossing the border with a weeks worth of cider and beer. These are elegant ice ciders.