The Humboldt Current and Chile’s Coastal (Chardonnay and Pinot Noir) Wines

"Of the great oceanic currents, the Humboldt stands out. It generates one of the richest maritime ecosystems in the world. It’s so large and cold that it affects the coasts of South America from the 50th to the 4th parallels. And, whenever it shifts course the impact on weather patterns is global. So potent is the Humboldt that it’s no wonder that any wines grown on its doorstep are affected accordingly."

This statement was the basis for a virtual tasting of six Chilean coastal Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines presented by Wines of Chile and Joaquin Hidalgo, wine columnist for La Nación,  

During the presentation he informed us that , "due to its scale and length, the Humboldt Current changes the weather around it, creating a cold buffer in nearby air masses and lowering temperatures as it goes. Even in tropical regions, the resulting lack of evaporation, due to the cooler temperatures, makes for a decisive drop in atmospheric humidity. "  How so? "Firstly, it cools the water over the sea, generating a classic thermal inversion in summer, condensing the little humidity generated during the day and, from the early morning right through to midday, creating a thick fog that spreads over the sea and coast. It’s the same kind of mist famously seen in California’s Sonoma Coast and the Santa Lucía Highlands, just on a larger scale. Because this fog also filters the sunlight, grape varieties with short ripening cycles, mainly Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, develop slowly and delicately."

"This combination of cool temperatures and ample sunlight ensures that the wines ripen fully but gradually. While the whites retain sharp acidity and low pH, the fruity aromas tend to be ripe -- apple and pear for Chardonnay with notes of lime and ginger, and the palates are rich in spite of the tart core. For Pinot Noir, the color is slightly more vivid due to the impact of the sunlight, while the crisp aromas of sweet and sour cherry are accompanied by wet earth, a hint of blood, tart acidity and a rich palate."

The Humboldt effect also presents some problems. The closer to the Ocean, the more intense the moderating effect on temperature and fog becomes, thus frost rises as a concern. To alleviate this risk, vineyards are planted facing North to capture as much sunlight as possible.  And since temperatures barely change across variations in latitude, there is a delicate balance between the grapes planted and the appropriate micro-climate. These "pockets"; such as San Anontio,  Lo Zarate, Colliguay, and Isla de Maipo; are where the wines we tasted are grown.

According to Hildago, these pockets are well suited for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Chardonnay delivers green apple and pear, with notes of lime and ginger; flavors are rich, in spite of the tart core. Whereas Pinot Noir offers a slightly more vivid color due to the impact of sunlight. Crisp aromas of sweet and sour cherry are accompanied by wet earth, a hint of blood, tart acidity and a rich palate. In addition, calcareous clay soils in Limarí bring a chalky feel to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as seen in the wines from Miguel Torres, Viña Concha y Toro, and Santa Rita.  On the other hand, abundant granite soils in Chile’s Coastal Range lead to lean, smooth textures, particularly in Pinot Noir. See the TerraNoble and Viña Garcés.

Viña Montes Alpha Chardonnay Chile 2022
Aroma of tropical fruit then candied papaya; toasty, red apple, and vanilla.

Santa Rita Chardonnay Floresta Chile 2021
Yeasty floral; pears and pineapples, saline, good acidity, creamy texture.

Miguel Torres Cordillera Chardonnay Chile 2023
Floral; salinity and acidity - lots of ripe apple and lime - chalky from clay soils.

Viña Garcés Silva Boya Pinot Noir Chile 2020
Raspberries and roses on the nose; red currants (tart) and herbaceous; fresh acidity - light tannins. 

Viña Concha y Toro Amelia Pinot Noir Chile 2022
Nice mouthfeel. Soft red fruit on nose, tea, chalky, some black pepper & saline, lingering finish.

TerraNoble Algarrobo Pinot Noir Chile 2023
Sour cherry puree on nose; continues on palate, wet stone earthiness, structure, acids, lasting finish.

Sipping the Best of DuCard Vineyards

Like several successful Virginia wineries, Ducard Vineyards opened 15 years ago during the ascendence of the Commonwealth's wine industry. Their estate is located in a beautiful valley on the  eastern edge of the Shenandoah National Park in the shadow of Old Rag Mountain and White Oak Canyon.  In the early days Rappahannock Cellars produced award winning wine from their grapes but eventual owner Scott Elliff decided to transition from grape grower to commercial winery. During that he made many wise decisions such as planting grapes suitable for the Virginia climate, starting small when building out the tasting room and production facility, and most importantly, hiring Julien Durantie as winemaker. 

The Ducard Norton was the first of their wine to reach our attention and they planted "America's Grape" based on a recommendation from Dennis Horton. The early versions were very acidic but Julien was able to nurture more fruit and less acidity moving to an open lyre vine training system. The results have been several consecutive years of award winning Norton wine.

They have also innovated and expanded their portfolio in terms of grape varieties and styles. Their red wines run through traditional Bordeaux grapes Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot to several red blends.  One the paler side, the offer a couple Chardonnays, Viognier, Pinot Gris, as well as blends and a couple effervescent wines: the Pet Gnat and XOXO - both based on Viognier.  During my visit Scott curated a flight of four wines he thought best personified DuCard's current lineup.  

2022 TANA Chardonnay ($45)
This is a Burgundy style wine where the Chardonnay grapes were harvested from the Estate's TANA vineyard and aged five months in French oak. The fresh citrus and green apple fruit basks with great acidity and length. No cloying butter or oak character. 

2022 Cabernet Franc Vintner Reserve ($40)
The best fruit from this vintage was sourced from their Whetstone Run vineyard which helps produce layers of dark cherry fruit, some earthiness, and without any sense of methoxypyrazines (aka green pepper). Expect a long, easy finish.  

2021 Triskele ($70) 
This wine is only made during the best of years (five out of fifteen vintages) and apparently 2021 was one such year. The Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Tannat grapes come from their three vineyard sites. The wine shows floral and herbaceous notes then structured layers of dark fruit with approachable tannins.  An excellent wine. 

2021 XOXO Sparkling Viognier  ($50)
This Hugs and Kisses sparkling wine is made from 100% Viognier from the TANA vineyard where the wine is aged two years on its lees. This leads to noticeable yeast, but an elegant display of subtle stone fruit and a lasting finish. 

Effervescence Unleashed: Virginia Sparkling Red Wine

"The overall inspiration for the wine comes from the often asked question, "why not?" This is a popular question here at CV and has led to many different styles of wine we produce. " - Jake Blodinger, winemaker at Chrysalis Vineyards discussing their Buttorfleoge Norton Pet Nat.

Since the inception of the modern Virginia wine industry, both Horton Vineyards and Chrysalis Vineyards have been pioneers in its development. This can be seen by their introducing (or re-introducing) popular grape varieties such as Viognier, Petit Manseng, and Norton. In addition, they have been pioneers in creating different styles of wine - notably - sparkling red wine.

The Chrysalis Vineyards 2019 Buttorfleoge ($28) is a rarity. This is a Norton Pét-Nat, a new use for Virginia's native grape.  In 2023 there were 130 acres of Norton planted in Virginia (10th most abundant in the Commonwealth(1)). The grape is usually seen as a rich and juicy dry wine that needs a few years in the bottle to tame its astringent nature. Yet, its versatility can be seen in the other styles such as a port-styled wine, a semi-dry lighter offering, and in various blends. But this is the first sparkling I've experienced via Pétillant Naturel using 100% whole-clustered pressed Norton wine. Expect the traditional dark purple color of the Norton but there is an unexpected strong floral note followed by blackberry bubbles.

According to Jake Blodinger, winemaker at Chrysalis Vineyards, "using the methode ancestrale technique ‘rediscovered’ in the Loire in the 1990s, this 100% whole-clustered pressed Norton wine is produced using only the natural microflora found at Locksley Estate. This wine is fermented in tank until there is only a small amount of sugar left. At this point, the wine is bottled and laid down to let the fermentation finish. The result is a true, terroir-driven pétillant-naturel (or Pét Nat), and an exciting addition to the Norton lineup here at Chrysalis Vineyards". 

The Horton Vineyards NV Knots & Shuttles ($24.95) is a another red sparkling wine, this one made from 100% Tannat. Another rarity on many levels.  First, Tannat is the 14th most widely planted grape variety in the Commonwealth with only 78 acres planted. For perspective, Cabernet Franc is the most widely planted grape with 661 acres (1).  Second, Virginia Tannat is generally bottled in Bordeaux-styled blends or as a single varietal wine depending on its tannic structure and juiciness. But as a sparkling wine?  This has to be a first. The wine starts with a black fruit intensity but yields to more finesse once the effervescence starts its escape. 

(1) 2023 Virginia Wine 2023 Commercial Wine Grape Report

Southern Distillery Tour: Mississippi with Crittenden Distillery & Circle Hook Distilling

During another quick trip to Lafayette I was able to visit and tour two distilleries in the Gulf area of The Magnolia State: Crittenden Distillery and Circle Hook Distilling. 

Crittenden Distillery is located in Kiln and produces mostly whiskey - bourbon and rye - with several expressions finished in various oak casks. I was fortunate to schedule this trip during their December open house and participated in a full distillery tour and tasting. During the tour, owner Matt Crittenden showed us their distilling process from the raw ingredients, to the mash tank and fermenting tanks, and the column still. After discussing the various fermenting temperatures and yeast features we moved out back to the rick house -- loaded with 53 gallon charred American white oak barrels.

 

Afterwards we returned to the tasting bar in which the distillery offered a generous sampling of practically their entire portfolio.  This started with their flagships Cut Above Bottled in Bond Bourbon and Cut Above Bottled in Bond Rye Whiskey. Both were the first Bottled in Bond whiskies produced in Mississippi and are a little hot at 100 proof, but dampened down they are excellent examples within their respective categories.  I didn't sample their the other flagship - Kiln Shine - but went to the various finished expressions. Crittenden sources a unique mixture of used casks from Scotland, Spain, Hungary, Brazil, and elsewhere. I had tasted the Sherry Finished Cut Above Bourbon in my previous visit and that is one of their best.  I purchased a bottle of the Cut Above Bourbon Tokaji with it's hint of sweetness; but my favorite was easily the Cut Above Bourbon Tara - a four year old whiskey finished in Brazilian Amburana casks. Three bottles of bourbon should keep me satisfied until my next trip south. 

Circle Hook Distilling is not open to the public but I was able to attend their first ever Open House.  They are located just north of I-10 in Gulfport and produce rum from a mixture of cane syrup, cane sugar, and molasses sourced from Franklin, Louisiana. They also created a very small batch Agricole-Style Rum made from cane juice grown at an extension farm at Mississippi State University. And the distillery's name pays homage to the family's main occupation: Alaskan salmon fishers. 

During this open house, owners Ely and Amy Underhill provided an overview of their operation through fermentation to distillation in the copper pot still; offered pure cane juice from freshly crushed sugar cane; and poured samples of their rum expressions. My favorites were the two standard offerings, the Circle Hook Silver Rum and Circle Hook Original Rum. They are bottled at 84 and 86 proof respectively and capture the essence of slow fermentation, micro-distillation runs, and the blending of two distillates - one molasses based and the other cane syrup based. The Silver provides way more body and character than your average unaged rum with subtle herbaceous notes. The Original is aged in smaller new American oak barrels, and like Crittenden, takes advantage of the Mississippi climate that helps impart plenty of baking spices into the rum.  Yet, the beauty of this expression is that the oak influences are not overwhelming and the spices blend seamlessly into the cane character. A little heat encourages cocktail usage.

The distillery also offers smaller batch rums like the aforementioned Agricole-Style Rum which is made from pure cane juice and then aged in new American oak barrels for approximately two years in order to mute the funky truffle, grassy, and herbaceous notes.  The Circle Hook Distiller's Reserve is the expression that caught my attention on social media since the product is a blend of rums derived from Circle Hook's new American oak barrels as well as from A Cut Above Bourbon barrel from Crittenden Distillery.  The cask strength Reserve is naturally boubon-ish and the oak imparts plenty of character where the rum fights to be heard. For this reason, I preferred the Original, but it is most likely in the wheelhouse of cigar and whiskey lovers. The final expression I tasted was a soon to be released Coconut Rum made with real toasted coconuts.  This will be very popular. Find this and their other rums from shops ranging from Baton Rouge to the panhandle. 

Grape Spotlight: Islas Canarias DOP Listán Blanco and the Bodega El Lomo 4 Lías

Courtesy of vineyards.com

The Canary Islands archipelago is an interesting region for growing grapes as it is the most tropical of Europe's wine regions. Lying off the west coast of Morocco, the tropical climate is generally hot and humid but there are numerous micro-climates and topographical features that make wine production possible. The altitude of the stone-terrace vineyards is vital and for the majority, it ranges from 1,600-3,300 feet above sea level, providing a string diurnal temperature change.  This ensures that freshness and acidity are maintained in the grapes.

Volcanic soils are also beneficial to grape growing. The soil imparts mineral and subtle, mineral notes to the otherwise largely aromatic wines.  And because of its isolation from the European mainland, phylloxera never reached the archipelago and imported rootstock was never needed. Thus Canarian wines are made from old and ungrafted vines. 

Wine is made on seven of the eight main islands, encompassing 11 Denominaciones de Origen Protegida (DOPs), the overall Islas Canarias DOP, five individual island DOPs, and five located on the largest island - Tenerife: Abona, Tacoronte-Acentejo, Valle de Guimar, Valle de la Orotava and Ycoden-Daute-Isora.  In order, these encompass the southern coast, northeast coast, southeast coast, northwest, and western part of Tenerife.

Courtesy of Bodega El Lomo

Along with Malvasia, Listán Blanco is the most popular white wine grape. The name is a synonym for the popular Jerez sherry grape: Palomino. In Andalucia, the variety has a rather neutral flavor profile, with low acidity and potential alcohol, making it a natural for fortification in Sherry's particular winemaking style.  However, in the volcanic soils and high elevation of the Islas Canarias DOP, Listán Blanco achieves much more acidity from the diurnal temperatures and is usually harvested prematurely to give it a touch of freshness. In this instance, it shows light and subtle herbal (fennel), peach and dried fruit aromas which seem to enhance the mineral and saline character of the volcanic terroir.

Bodega El Lomo is located in Tenerife with multiple estates located in distinct microclimates on the island.  The estate vineyard ("Fray Luis")  is located at 1400 feet above the sea in a volcanic fault with the vines cultivated in terraces. "This farm, according to historical records, has been a vineyard for more than 300 years".  Their highest vineyard is "Chío" located at 3600 feet near the Chinyero volcano in the south of the island. And most of their vineyards are located in the northeast of Tenerife averaging 1600 feet. 

The 4 Lías Blanco Seco 2022 is a truly unique wine.  The Listán Blanco base is fermented and aged on its lees as well as the lees from three other wines produced that vintage year at the winery. The other lees derive from Malvasía, Albillo Criollo, and Forastera and come from a sheltered vineyard on the northeast side of Tenerife. The Listán Blanco comes from vineyards located over 2800 feet with the vines planted in deep volcanic soil. 

This is a fantastic complex wine with plenty of ripe stone fruit on the nose with layers of minerality and aggressive acidity. At Jaleo this wine was served with Papas Arrugas (miniature potatoes) and Croquetas de pollo (chicken fritters). Expect $15 or Euros if you can find it in your market. 

Grape Spotlight: Canary Islands Lanzarote DOP Listán Negro and the La Geria Winery Rosado

Courtesy of vineyards.com

The Canary Islands archipelago is an interesting region for growing grapes as it is the most tropical of Europe's wine regions. Lying off the west coast of Morocco, the tropical climate is generally hot and humid but there are numerous micro-climates and topographical features that make wine production possible. The altitude of the stone-terrace vineyards is vital and for the majority, it ranges from 1,600-3,300 feet above sea level, providing a string diurnal temperature change.  This ensures that freshness and acidity are maintained in the grapes.

Courtesy of La Geria Winery

Volcanic soils are also beneficial to grape growing. The soil imparts mineral and subtle, mineral notes to the otherwise largely aromatic wines.  And because of its isolation from the European mainland, phylloxera never reached the archipelago and imported rootstock was never needed. Thus Canarian wines are made from old and ungrafted vines.

Wine is made on seven of the eight main islands, encompassing 11 Denominaciones de Origen Protegida (DOPs), the overall Islas Canarias DOP, five individual islands, and five located on the largest island - Tenerife.  Today's focus is on the easternmost island - Lanzarote - known for the uniqueness of its volcanic (lunar) landscape.  In general, the island has a temperate climate as a result of its proximity to Africa coupled with cooling breezes from the Atlantic Ocean. Plus there is an abnormally large drop in nighttime temperatures enhancing acidity and lengthening the growing season. 

According to wine-searcher.com, "Lanzarote's landscape was transformed from 1730 to 1736 by a series of volcanic eruptions. It covered around a third of the land in thick black lava and ash and destroyed the island's traditional agricultural crops, such as wheat. However, it created the conditions for the island to start its wine production."  Forced to innovate, the vines are planted in cones formed in the lapilli, locally called picón, and additionally protected by small dry stone walls. This type of planting allows the plants to root more easily in the fertile soil, while the upper layer of lapilli reduces evaporation. In addition, the shape of the holes and the additional wall protect the crops from the wind.

Courtesy of La Geria Winery

Listán Negro is the most  most cultivated red wine grape planted in the Canary Islands - and is most dominant in the Tacoronte-Acentejo DOP that covers the island of Tenerife. It is a black-skinned grape formed into funnel shaped and compact clusters The berry, itself, is medium-sized, spherical, and blue-black.  It adapts very well to northern slopes, medium altitude and more evolved soils with a higher level of clay, where it maintains acidity, achieves good alcohol content and good phenolic ripening. Most interesting is that DNA studies have shown that this grape variety is not a mutation of Palomino Fino (Listan Blanco in the Canary Islands).  It is autochthonous to the archipelago. Wines made from Listán Negro vary considerably in style, from rosé wines to light red wines with soft tannins, spice and red berry flavors.

La Geria is a sub-region within Lanzarote and the La Geria Winery was originally founded at the end of the 19th century by the Rijo family and acquired by the Melián family in 1993. It is one of the most visited wineries due to the estate's lunar landscape and extensive portfolio. One of these is the La Geria Rosado 2022 which I was fortunate enough to sample during a Canary Island wine lunch held at Jaleo in Washington, D.C.  The wine is made in the Saignée style using 100% Listán Negro and then fermented after 12 hours of skin contact.  The wine is cheerful - strong aromatics, noticeable texture and minerality, with refreshing acidity. Served with grilled octopus and tapa of shrimp head on, sautéed with garlic sauce. Expect $13 or Euros if you can find it in your market. 

Southern Distillery Tour: Tennessee, Alabama & Louisiana

In early-mid November I embarked on a trip to Lafayette making sure I visited as many distilleries as possible - particularly those that offer a rum expression. 

Drop Zone Distilling, Knoxville Tennessee

This veteran founded distillery offers a company of whiskies, moonshines, flavored moonshines, and other spirits -- including a cane-based rum. Here's their origination story:

"Rod 'Sarge' Parton is on a journey to introduce everyone to the real authentic unadulterated taste of hand-crafted Moonshine made famous from the back hills of Pittman Center, TN by his grandfather and great-grandpap as far back as 1930’s. Rod’s grandfather had a small store up on the river where other shiners would come and get supplies to keep them from having to travel into town and be seen. Rod’s grandfather started making Rye Moonshine in the late 1960’s for a different flavor from the traditional corn-based shine most everyone was making. Rod has now taken the recipes from his great-grandpap’s corn based and his papaw’s rye-based moonshine and perfected the taste of both into Gold Medal Winning very smooth enjoyable shine made for sipping and telling stories around a campfire."

Drop Zone offers three Moonshine expressions based on this family history with the Drop Zone - Legacy 110 Proof, Drop Zone Legacy 135 Proof, and the Drop Zone - Mountain Rye. I purchased a bottle of the rye moonshine in order to savor the moment - great texture, subtle spice and pepper, and easy finish. I also purchased a bottle of the Drop Zone Classic Rum which provides herbaciousness and earthiness - traits not associated with molasses based rums. 

I also need to mention the "Jump Master" Series with an American Single Malt Whiskey, a Rye Whiskey, and a Bourbon Whiskey. All are solid expressions. 

Sweet Home Spirits, Leeds Alabama

Continuing on through our Southern Spirits Tour, I stopped into a relatively new operation located just south of Birmingham, Alabama in the town of Leeds: Sweet Home Spirits. Name after the iconic song of the South and carrying on the tradition of the Swampers of Muscle Shoals this distillery seeks to exude Alabama culture and a love of one’s home. That is why founder Austin Creel, along with his partners, have created Alabama-style whiskies using various mash bills of Rye, Malted Barley, and Corn.

I arrived during their launch of Sweet Home Divided Bourbon encompassing 68% yellow corn -- all sourced from Creel's family farm in Hamilton. Combined with 21% Rye and 11% Malted Barley this Bourbon is finished with charred pecan wood chips to emulate The Heart of Dixie. Very unique. Their signature whiskey however, is the Sweet Home Whiskey, using a 75% sweet corn, 21% rye and 4% malted barley mash bill and aged in various American toasted oak casks. If you ever thought of a crushable whiskey, this is it.

My flight also consisted of the Campfire Whiskey and Cask Strength Bourbon Whiskey. The former is produced by soaking cinnamon sticks into the Sweet Home Whiskey whereas the Cask Strength has a similar mash bill but bottled at 120 proof. A couple drops of water tempers the heat and allow the vanilla and other baking spices to rise.

Wildcat Brothers Distilling, Lafayette Louisiana 

Gator Cove is our home base during our trips to The Pelican State and we are well versed on their regular expressions as well as their limited edition offerings. Particularly through cocktails. However, their newest rum is the limited edition L. Ferrer. This 4-year dark rum was aged in virgin, charred American white oak barrels - replicating the process of aging bourbon.  I'll let the distillery explain "the story behind Wildcat Brothers' new rum, L. Ferrer, draws inspiration from a tantalizing legend about the infamous pirate Jean Laffite. Laffite, a notorious figure in the Gulf of Mexico, was deeply involved in smuggling and privateering, building a reputation as a bold and clever outlaw. After his supposed death in the early 1820s, rumors persisted that he had not truly perished, but instead faked his demise to escape the authorities and his enemies. According to legend, Laffite adopted a new identity, living out the rest of his days as Lorendzo Ferrer in peaceful obscurity." During my three nights visiting Gator Cove, this was a popular option both over ice and in bottle sales. 

Louisiana Spirits Distillery, Lacassine Louisiana

The Bayou Rum Distillery is located about an hour west of Lafayette and was instituted to bring Louisiana rum to the world. From the outset, production has been managed by Cuban born and second-generation rum maker Reiniel Vicente Diaz. His father Omar Vicente was Master Blender of a Cuban rum distillery for 15 years before relocating to the Dominican Republic where the younger Reiniel worked alongside him at the Oliver & Oliver rum company. 

When visiting I recommend the short self guided tour in the media room - paying close attention to the photos and wall posters. Then on to a flight which consisted of eight samples in my case. This starts with the Bayou® White Rum - the core of the portfolio - distilled using their pot still and proofed with triple filtered fresh local water. The Bayou® Pink provides more berry and floral notes with the addition of  local mayhaw berries. Getting into the aged rums, they were all solid expressions starting with the solera Bayou® Reserve Rum aged in ex-bourbon barrels for up to four years. The Bayou® Single Batch #3 is equally unique maturing in California red wine barrels for five years.  

The Bayou® XO Mardi Gras was actually the rationale behind my visit as it was one of two American rums mentioned by Ian Burrell in the American rum chapter of his latest book: Rum A Tasting Course: A Flavor-Focused Approach to the World of Rum.  The rum was matured in bourbon barrels for up to five years and then finished for one additional year in Spanish Pedro Ximenez sherry barrels. Just a fantastic expression - incorporating the orange, fig, and nut characters of the sherry.

The flight finished with three notable expressions starting with the Bayou® Spiced Rum that was inspired by Louisianan Creole baking and  includes three styles of natural vanilla, cinnamon and sweet figs. Then there are the two Gator Bite Louisiana Liqueurs. The Satsuma + Rum offering is sweet oranges - hitting all the Curaçao components. The Coffee + Rum is exactly what you would expect. I envision quick espresso martinis. 

NOËL Family Distillery, Donaldsonville Louisiana 

The NOËL Family Distillery is located just 25 feet above sea level on the banks of the Mississippi, about 35 miles south of Baton Rouge. This is a father-daughter team that graduated from the Moonshine Academy together in order to start a distillery producing rum from molasses and  sugar cane processed at the nearby Cora-Texas Mfg. Co plant in White Castle.  Although centered in Donaldsonville, Chip Noel travelled the globe as a jet pilot whereas daughter Natalie remained local studying marketing at ULL and earning a M.B.A. at LSU. Both visionaries to start a distillery.

On my visit Chip walked me through ta curated flight of their current portfolio, excluding the canned cocktails and Tequila which is made from a proprietary blend of lowland and highland Blue Weber agave in Jalisco, Mexico.  I started with their Rare 6YR Reserve Rum distilled from high-test molasses. Unlike traditional molasses, high-test molasses is not a byproduct of sugar production, but rather a product that is produced instead of sugar. Sipping from home, I can observe dried apricots, caramel, vanilla and an easy finish. The distillery also has a 6YR: Tequila Cask Finished Rum that is distilled from Grade-A molasses and aged in white American oak and finished in ex-tequila barrels. Grade A molasses is the highest quality molasses and most desirable grade, characterized by its good flavor, good color, and minimal defects. This expression is also highly complex with an interesting butterscotch character. 

The flight continued with a Charcoal Filtered Vodka and the Pickle Flavored Vodka. This last was not a favorite of mine, but apparently is with the younger crowd. On the other, I also purchased a bottle of the Charcoal Filtered Vodka which is a fresh clean spirit made from 100% American corn and as the name suggests, charcoal filtered to remove any impurities. The final offering in the flight was a soon to be release Rhum Agricole distilled from cane juice and having all the funky herbaceous notes you expect from this process. Will need to return to add this rum to our collection. 

Perdido Vineyards (Boogie Bottom Spirits), Perdido Alabama

To say the Perdido Vineyards has been a pioneer in the Alabama craft beverage industry is such an understatement. They do hold winery license #1 as the first farm winery in The Heart of Dixie. In fact, founders Jim and Marianne Eddins (who started growing muscadine grapes in 1972) worked with the legislative sponsors to enact the Alabama Native Farm Winery Act of 1979. Prior to this legislation, wineries could only sell to state stores, wholesalers, or out of state and not to retailers and consumers.  In 2002, the couple expanded their operation to include wine vinegars, then fortified wines, cider, and eventually distilled spirits through Boogie Bottom Spirits.

Whereas the winery specializes in many Muscadine expressions, I focused on the fortified wines and spirits. learning all about their various wines, rum, and brandy.  For instance, the rum is made from Alabama sugar cane harvested and processed by farmers who are located very close to the estate. The Joe Cane Rhum Agricole is made straight from the cane juice and is as earthy and funky as expected. The Shipwreck Alabama Rum is their entry level expression with a distinct creamy body and is named after a reputed rum runner and his story, known as the “Whiskey Wreck”.  The 100 proof Blue & Gold Alabama Rum provides more vanilla than the 80 proof Shipwreck and packs a little bite.

As for the fortified wine, I sampled the Satsuma Orange and the Marianne Sherry Style and purchased a bottle of the Marianne to join the Shipwreck on my drive home. I selected the first because I wanted to mentally compare it to the Bayou Satsuma + Rum and it has a similar strong citrus component with a very approachable and lengthy finish. The Marianne (obviously named after Marianne Eddins) was a complete surprise, it is equivalent to the Oloroso style with the muscadine flavors achieving more of  nutty and fig character.  

John Emerald Distilling Company, Opelika Alabama

John Emerald Distilling is a small craft distillery located in downtown Opelika - located in eastern Alabama just northeast of Auburn.  The distillery was founded by former home brewers and father and son team John and Jimmy Sharp in 2015 becoming the first post-prohibition distillery in Alabama. That's a century of illegal stills operating in The Heart of Dixie. The operation is named after John’s Father and honored with their flagship spirit: the Alabama Single Malt Whiskey - a single malt whiskey made in the American Single Malt style and the first whiskey to be legally made in Alabama in 100 years.

The offer spirits from multiple spirits categories and I started with three rum samples starting with Sarah's Silver Rum which is made from local pure cane syrup from Headland, Alabama and dark moncovado cane sugar from the Mauritius Islands. The later is is a type of unrefined cane sugar that retains a significant amount of molasses, resulting in a rich, dark brown color and a robust, almost bitter flavor. Gene's Spiced Rum starts with the Silver and is augmented with Alabama Pecans, Madagascar vanilla beans, Indonesian cinnamon sticks, and star anise pods from Southern China. I came home with a bottle of Spurgeon's Barrel Aged Rum which was the first rum made in Alabama and is barrel aged in their used single malt whiskey barrels for two years. This is a must buy for rum collectors. 

I concluded the tasting with a sample of their Casa Esmeralda Anejo. This agave spirit is made from 100% blue weber agave and aged one year in a white oak barrel. A very smooth offering to close our the tour. 

Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc from Across the Domaine Bousquet Landscape

We love receiving wines from Domaine Bousquet, not only because of their quality and value, but also to learn more about regenerative farming. Their vineyards (first planted in 1997-98) are situated high above the clouds at 4,000 feet in Gualtallary in Mendoza’s Uco Valley. This dry environment definitely helped the winery achieve Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC)™ status -- only the fourth wine estate (and the first outside the U.S.). 

"Regenerative organic agriculture is a collection of practices that focus on regenerating soil health and the full farm ecosystem. In practice, regenerative organic agriculture can look like cover cropping, crop rotation, low- to no-till, compost, and zero use of persistent chemical pesticides and fertilizers. Layered into these practices, depending on a farm’s needs, could be the addition of perennials, development of pollinator and wildlife habitats, incorporation of agroforestry systems, vegetative barriers, and other regenerative practices that are shown to contribute to the development of soil organic matter."

Domaine Bousquet Gaia Organic Cabernet Franc 2021 ($20)

The first tenant of regenerative farming is No-Till Farming. This method offers a range of benefits that can improve soil health, increase crop yields, reduce environmental impacts, and save farmers money.  No-till farming educes soil erosion, preserves soil structure, increases soil organic matter, and reduces soil compaction, leading to better soil biological activity and improved soil health. Fields managed using no-till farming for multiple years have a higher water-holding capacity. And farmers benefit from reduces fuel and labor costs. 

Grapes from the GAIA brand have always been grown organically and the "Greek goddess of the earth, has been the Bousquet family’s inspiration since founding our winery 1997".  This 100% Cabernet Franc wine was aged in French oak between 8 and 10 months and shows luscious layers of dark fruit intertwined with earthy herbaceous notes.

Domaine Bousquet Gran Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($25)

The next tenant of regenerative farming is Biodiversity through at least four plant groups.  This process increases pollinator populations by providing diverse flower-rich habitats and reduced pesticide use support pollinators like bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. It enhances ecosystem services so that soil biota, decomposers, and predators work together to regulate pests and diseases, reducing the need for chemical controls. Biodiversity improves habitat connectivity as regenerative farms with diverse habitats and corridors can support wider species distributions and population growth. And is sequesters carbon as healthy soils and diverse ecosystems help sequester carbon, mitigating climate change and its impacts on biodiversity.

The Gran Domaine Bousquet label features the best grapes from the “home” vineyard – the original vineyard planted by Jean Bousquet in the late 1990s.  The vines live in sandy soils and the grapes benefit from a dramatic diurnal temperature swing. The wine is aged 12 months in French oak lifting the fruit but allowing the layers of dark cherry and dried figs flavors to ride through the palate. The best food pairing: peppered beef jerky. 

Domaine Bousquet Reserve Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($18)

The third tenant of regenerative farming is planting Cover Crops that become layers of armor by protecting the soil from sunlight and maintains moisture. Regenerative farming and cover crops are intertwined concepts that promote soil health, biodiversity, and ecosystem services. Regenerative agriculture focuses on enhancing natural processes to improve soil fertility, structure, and overall ecosystem function. Cover crops play a vital role in this approach, serving as a bridge between cash crops and soil regeneration.'

A step up from the premium varietal line, these blends of Domaine Bousquet 4,000-foot elevation estate-grown grapes from plots with low yields offer more of everything – more body, more tannin in the reds, and more flavor. The wine includes 15% Malbec and was aged 10 months in French oak. This is a wine to savor - layers of dark cherry fruit, traces of minerality and spice and a long lifting finish from the acidity and approachable tannins. Works well with chili.

Domaine Bousquet Alavida Kosher USDA-Certified Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($18)

The fourth tenant of regenerative farming is incorporating Animals as a key component to achieve the regenerative goals. This includes grazing management emphasizing rotational grazing, where animals are moved to different pastures to mimic natural grazing patterns. This approach promotes soil health, increases biodiversity, and sequesters carbon.  Manure is used as a natural fertilizer, reducing the need for synthetic fertilizers and minimizing carbon emissions associated with their production and transportation. Animals like chickens, ducks, and geese can be used as natural pest managers, reducing the need for pesticides and promoting soil health. Holistic approach: Regenerative farming recognizes the interconnectedness of soil, plants, animals, and ecosystem services. By incorporating animals into the farming system, farmers can create a more resilient and diverse ecosystem.

The Alavida brand celebrates "to life!" which is the Spanish interpretation of the Hebrew toast l’chaim!. The brand also celebrates the diversity of Argentina and the multi-cultural family at Domaine Bousquet. In order for a wine to be designated Kosher ("fit or proper" ) handled throughout the production process by religious Jews under the guidance of a Rabbi. Thus the Domaine Bousquet team does not directly handle the production for this wine but based on the winery's unique style and technique. The winemaking team is in constant contact with the Rabbi and his team throughout the winemaking process. The grapes are hand harvested then fermented with selected yeast in stainless steel tanks. And according to the winery, "by not adding SO2, characteristics identified with the high-altitude, cool-climate terroir of Mendoza’s Uco Valley, are strengthened and enhanced. The purity of fruit, aroma, flavor, and freshness become yet more pronounced. Fruit has to be of superb quality, with great concentration, for the wine to remain stable without the presence of SO2. "

A juicy wine with layers of red fruit, distinct earthiness and minerality and lifting acidity.  Definitely has a different character than the previous wines without the aging process. We paired it with the Taza Wicked Dark Chocolate, but I can sea how others would prefer it with the Sea Salt & Almond or 70% Deliciously Dark. 

Domaine Bousquet Ameri Single Vineyard Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($36)

The fifth and final tenant of regenerative farming is instituting Labor Practices that ensure sufficient wages and worker safety. Regenerative farmers prioritize fair labor practices, ensuring decent working conditions, safe working environments, and equitable compensation for farmworkers. Regenerative agriculture values the dignity and well-being of farmers and farmworkers, recognizing their importance in maintaining healthy ecosystems and producing nutritious food. Regenerative farms strive to provide comfortable and safe working conditions, including adequate shade, ventilation, and access to clean water and sanitation facilities. Regenerative farmers avoid using synthetic pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers, reducing exposure risks for farmworkers and promoting a healthier environment. Regenerative agriculture often involves community-based approaches, fostering relationships between farmers, farmworkers, and local communities to promote social and environmental sustainability. Regenerative farmers invest in training and capacity-building programs for farmworkers, enhancing their skills and knowledge in sustainable agriculture practices. Regenerative practices like agroforestry, cover cropping, and crop rotation can reduce labor requirements, improving working conditions and reducing the risk of labor exploitation. Regenerative farmers prioritize continuous learning and improvement, adapting to changing environmental and social conditions while refining their labor practices to ensure long-term sustainability.

Today Domain Bousquet is managed by founder's Jean Bousquet's son-in-law and daughter: Labid al Ameri & Anne Bousquet. al Ameri had joined his father-in-law full time in 2005 helping to build the winery while Anne joined the company in 2008. "In 2009, the couple moved to Tupungato full-time, assuming full ownership in 2011". The Ameri label is obviously named after co-owner Labid al Ameri and the grapes come from a single vineyard, located at 4,125 feet, the highest of the estate. These grapes are the last to be harvested. The wine is aged 12 months in French oak and shows blackberries and dark cherries, more intense minerality with traces of herbaciousness. Expect another long finish with layers of fruit and tannins.