Regenerative Rosé from Domaine Bousquet

This year we have received many samples from Domaine Bousquet and have covered the winery in the Wines with Altitude series based on the fact that their estate vineyards are 4,000 feet above sea level. Yet, we have not covered in detail their most important viticulture accomplishment-- the first Argentinean winery achieving Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC). "Regenerative organic agriculture is a collection of practices that focus on regenerating soil health and the full farm ecosystem. In practice, regenerative organic agriculture can look like cover cropping, crop rotation, low- to no-till, compost, and zero use of persistent chemical pesticides and fertilizers. Layered into these practices, depending on a farm’s needs, could be the addition of perennials, development of pollinator and wildlife habitats, incorporation of agroforestry systems, vegetative barriers, and other regenerative practices that are shown to contribute to the development of soil organic matter."

Domaine Bousquet unknowingly started the regenerative process 25 years ago by farming organically then slowly adding in more features aligning to Regenerative agriculture. Wineries highlight different aspects of certification and Domaine Bousquet focuses on three three key areas:

• Soil Health and Land Management
• Animal Welfare
• Equity between Farmers and Workers

According to co-owner and CEO Anne Bousquet, "by nurturing the earth and treating it with respect, the earth will reward us with its finest fruits. Healthy plants, cultivated through these methods, do not require pesticides. The healthiest grapes yield quality yeast, leading to smooth fermentation. Consequently, we reduce the need for adjustments during the winemaking process, resulting in wines that express their true character." Thus the agricultural practices they practice aim to foster a more balanced and nourishing ecosystem. 

Soil Health and Land Management
"Within the realm of regenerative practices, we actively promote various natural processes, with a special emphasis on the use of compost. Compost contributes not only organic matter and nutrients but also enhances microbiology and soil structure. Our vineyards hold certifications for organic agriculture (ECOCERT), regenerative (ROC), and biodynamic (Demeter) practices. All our efforts are directed toward cultivating healthy soils, including composting, rotational grazing, and cover crops. We have also minimized soil tillage to encourage root development and beneficial bacteria, reducing the need for external fertilizers. Collectively, these practices help mitigate erosion, preserve organic matter, and boost soil biodiversity and fertility."

And according to the winery, the climate within the Tupungato mountain range at Gualtallary encourages organic farming. "Thanks to the [Mendoza] Uco Valley's dry climate and phylloxera-resistant sandy soils, organic farming at Domaine Bousquet, from day one, was not only possible, but desirable. Other factors that distinguish this landscape are the constant breezes from the Andes to the west, which help mitigate heat stress in this desert climate. Significant temperature differentials between day and night help enhance aromatics, while the sandy soils result in low fertility, desirable for vine stress and ideal for good drainage. With an average annual rainfall of just 8"/203 mm, groundwater from the Andes snowmelt is vital for vineyard irrigation. Time has shown that the roots of organically grown vines penetrate deeper, allowing greater access to water in times of drought. Not least, organic farming is decidedly better for the long-term well-being of the local environment as well as the people who tend the vines."

Domaine Bousquet Organic Rosé 2023 ($13)
This organic wine is an interesting composition of 50% Pinot Noir, 30% Syrah, 10% Pinto Grigio, and 10% Viognier. Each grape variety provides input to the complex mouthfeel - strawberry, citrus, floral, some spice, and abundant acidity.

Domaine Bousquet Gaia Rosé 2023 ($18)
This wine is 100% organically grown Pinot Noir and after gliding through the floral and strawberry notes, the acidity and creamy texture resides.

Domaine Bousquet Sparkling Rosé NV ($13)
This sparkling wine is 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay with noticeable lemon and white grapefruit notes, some bready yeast, and similar texture as the Gaia. A bargain at this price point. 

Wilding in Vineyards with the Apis Arborea TreeNest

While discussing their Regenerative Farming practices at their American Canyon Vineyard at Grgich Hills Estate, Luke and Ivo Jeramaz showed us the most interesting bee hive. It was cylinder tree log, covered with bark, and located a dozen feet above our head. This TreeNest was designed by the  nonprofit organization Apis Arborea in order to promote wild honeybee populations. Seeing the hive immediately raised two insights. (1)  Yes, wild bees do exist and (2) the TreeNest seemed so nature - as opposed to the boxed nature of commercial bee hives. 

While showing us the TreeNest, Luke described how the bees assist in the general bio-diversity of the American Canyon Vineyard and the surrounding land. The bees can forage up to 8,000 acres assisting in cover crop pollination and as stewards of the landscape, Grgich Hills has a responsibility to make it as natural as possible. 

He also introduced me to Michael Thiele, Founder and President of Apis Arborea.  During our call, Mr. Thiele described the history, challenges and ecological impacts of contemporary beekeeping and why he founded Apis Arborea -- to shift the focus from thinking in terms of commodities (Apis Mellifera) to that of their natural, historical habitat in trees. -- preserving the life and resiliency of honeybees through wilding.

During our exchange, I learned that the modern techniques of beekeeping are modern conventions that force the bees to utilize un-natural processes. In the distant past, beekeepers used egg shape hives or woven skeps -- mimicking how bees nest in nature. However, the "bee box" method employed almost universally today stresses the bees. First according to Thiele, "thermodynamics shows that the walls are too thin to protect the bees". Second, the combs implanted into the wooden frames are artificially sized to maximize output and are not the same size as combs that bees create naturally in the wild. Third, bees prefer to live high in trees -- away from predators; in smaller homes with smaller entrances.   And finally, commercial bee colonies are much more prone to long term extinction by disease as bees from neighboring hives mix easily within the colonies. On the other hand wild hives are much more likely to bounce back after a disease crisis. 

Thus Thiele sees wilding and TreeNests as a more ethical choice and allows bees to create a "self-willed ecological process". And he sees vineyards as a refuge for wild honeybees to recover their health and strength and to live freely -- not in square boxes. 

Courtesy of Apis Arborea

Like Grgich Hills Estate, Spotteswood Estate is another Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC) winery that hosts wild bees through TreeNests. According to Aron Weinkauf (Winemaker & Vineyard Manager), "as they forage to nurture future generations in their hives, bees help to propagate cover crops that enrich the soil in our vineyards and flowering plants that attract other beneficial insects that keep our vines pest free. And as they range up to a mile and a half from their hives, they pollinate our neighbors’ gardens and fruit trees in every direction as well. "

Regenerative Farming at Grgich Hills Estate

Are you familiar with the main principles of Regenerative Farming?  Grgich Hills Estate has been a leader in this innovation, first by farming organically for the past two decades, then biodynamically, and finally regenerative farming as stipulated by Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC) since 2019. 

Winemaker and Vice President of Vineyards & Production Ivo Jeramaz and his son Luke provided an overview of this process during a BevFluence® organized tour of one of the Grgich Hills Estate's American Canyon vineyards. Here they farm 121.5 acres at cooler temperatures and stronger winds than in Napa Valley.  Over a crescendo of songbirds, ducks, geese, and guinea fowl; Ivo and Luke described how Grgich Hills implements five principles of Regenerative Farming leading to a vibrant nature preserve, productive grapes, reduced costs, and satisfied employees. Check back later for multiple posts on these chemical free principles, but here are the main features:

1. No till agriculture reduces erosion and keeps valuable nutrients and microbes in the soil.
2. Bio-diversity in the vineyard through at least four plant groups leads to sharing of nutrients.
3. Planting cover crops that become layers of armor by protecting the soil from sunlight and maintains moisture.
4. Let animals manage most vineyard activities such as mowing and pest control. Grgich Hills uses sheep, owls, songbirds, guinea fowl, and other animals to control cover crops and pests.
5. Institute labor practices that ensure sufficient wages and worker safety that leads to greater retention and thus increased productivity.

Grgich Hills also provided a fantastic library tasting of their iconic wines -- after a refreshing glass of their 2021 Essence Estate Sauvignon Blanc ($55). This saline driven refreshing wine offers white grapefruit and stone fruit and is made from practically a 50-50 blend of American Canyon and Carneros grapes.  The 2016 Estate Napa Valley Chardonnay still carries similar acidity and minerality with floral and sweet apple and pear notes. 

Moving to red library wines, we started with the 2018 Estate Napa Valley Merlot which is a blend from three vineyards - the cooler American Canyon and Carneros vineyards and the warmer Yountville vineyard. Expect savory red fruit, some mint, structure and a balanced acidic - but polished finish. We had the pleasure to sip their 2014 Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and compare it to their 2007 Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2014 starts with a wonderful mouthfeel of black fruit and juicy structured tannins. Whereas the 2007 is lighter, it is still vibrant with noticeable tannins mingling with ripe raspberries. The final wine was the 2013 Estate Napa Valley  Miljenko's Old Vine Zinfandel sourced from 135-year-old vines grown in Calistoga. Think of savory black fruit dusted with black pepper finishing with juicy tannins. 

The Pre-Industrial Approach to Farming at Ridge Vineyards at Lytton Springs Estate

During the 2022 BevFluence Livermore Experience we ventured west to the Santa Cruz Mountains in order to visit the famous Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello Estate. Thus we deemed it appropriate during the recently concluded 2024 BevFluence Sonoma Experience to travel to the Dry Creek Valley and visit the Ridge Vineyards at Lytton Springs Estate. Alongside 115-year-old vines we sipped several Ridge wines and learned about the winery's Pre-Industrial Approach to Farming that was a forbearer to an upcoming lesson on Regenerative Farming by Grgich Hills Estate. 

Whereas Ridge Vineyards is not formally Regenerative Organic Certified, they have adopted virtually all the practices recommended by the alliance.  As of 2022, Ridge has received organic certification for 100% of the vines at their Monte Bello, Lytton Springs, Geyserville, and East Bench vineyards.  In addition they protect and increase the fertility of soil microbes by applying home-made compost; planting cover crops that add  nitrogen and organic matter and control erosion; practice no till (mow only) on their hillside vineyard blocks to help minimize erosion and build organic matter in the soil. 

Ridge also encourages beneficial insect and bird populations as an alternative to pesticides. Planting hedgerows harbor  beneficial insects as well as break up the monoculture of vineyards.  They have installed raptor roosts and bird boxes to help with insect and rodent control. And their Integrated Pest Management activity monitors for pests and insects to quickly ameliorate crop damage.

These practices have greatly enhanced the survivability of their old vines like those within the Lytton Springs Estate. During our tasting we sat at the base of these vines, sampling several fantastic Ridge wines. The first was the 2023 Alder Springs Falanghina ($35) which includes 18% Vermentino and is sourced from the Alder Springs Vineyard in Mendocino County. Interestingly, they discovered a warmer micro-climate within the overwise cooler Mendocino region to grow this southern Italian grape variety and the delicious wine shows peach and tropical notes with racy minerality.  The 2023 Lytton Estate Rosé ($35) was the first Lytton Springs estate wine on the tasting menu and this is a strawberry inspired blend of 36% Grenache, 26% Zinfandel, 15% Mataro (Mourvédre), 14% Cinsaut, and 9% Counoise. 

Moving to the red wines, the 2022 Green & Red Zinfandel ($42) includes 2% Petite Sirah with the zin coming from the Green & Red estate at a high elevation in Napa Valley. Grapes from two vineyard sites (Tip Top vineyard and Chiles Mill vineyard) are co-fermented and show abundant acidity.  Moving to estate wines, the 2021 Lytton Springs ($55) is a delicious blend of 72% Zinfandel, 15% Petite Sirah, 9% Carignane, 2% Alicante Bouschet, 1% Cinsaut, and 1% Counoise. This wine includes vines planted in 1901 plus eighty-year-old Counoise inter-planted with Cinsaut. Luscious as our party would say.  The 2021 Lytton Estate Syrah, Grenache, Mataro ($44) features 74% Syrah, 17% Grenache, & 9% Mataro where the G floral notes, the S provides richness, and the M - spiciness. This was a must purchase. The 2021 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($90) includes 16% Merlot most of which is sourced from Monte Bello’s Klein Ranch. Layers and layers of fruit. Finally, a tasting at any of the Ridge tasting rooms requires a sampling of the famed Monte Bello - in this case - the 2016 Monte Bello which was a 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, & 6% Cabernet Franc blend. A mild summer allowed the grapes to slowly ripen, retaining acidity, which are still prevalent after the 18 months in oak and six years in the bottle. A classic wine. 

Grape Spotlight: DO Pla de Bages Picapoll from Bodegas Abadal

The first documented reference on the existence of the Picapoll grape in Bages is found in an inventory of the monastery at Sant Benet de Bages in the year 1564. From 1889 on, there is more precise evidence of the existence of this grape and in documents dating back to 1889 and 1890, it is mentioned as being the most widely-grown variety in the region of Bages. After 1930, in Bages and the rest of the wine-growing regions of Catalonia, there was a decline in the area of land dedicated to vineyards which resulted in the residual growth of Picapoll in Bages – a region which is ideally suited to this variety, thanks to the grape’s great adaptability. -- Bodegas Abadal 

 

The DO Pla de Bages designation is one of ten in Catalunya and lies 30 miles northwest of Barcelona. This region enjoys a mostly Mediterranean climate but Continental influences move in as the hot summers transition to cold winters.   The Llobregat and Cardener rivers weave southwards through the region and vineyards sit within the rivers' valleys, surrounded by impressive mountain peaks and ranges, including the tourist destination of Montserrat Monastery.  During the summer months the grapes develop slowly because of the very high diurnal temperature variation.

According to wine-searcher.com, "Vineyard locations, and the corresponding grape-growing conditions, are defined by two distinct types of topography. The central basin, at an altitude of 200m (600ft), has predominantly clay-based soil and is warmer.  Alt Bages ('Upper Bages'), which lies at 500m (1,600ft) above sea level, is the cooler part and has a healthy amount of lime in its soil. This helps to retain moisture during the hotter months. The lower reaches, simply referred to as Pla des Bages, sits at around 200m (600ft) above sea level. The soils are alluvial, made up of mostly clay and sand."

Pla des Bages acquired DO status in 1995, in part from the effort of Valentí Roqueta, who chaired the association from 1995 to 2015. A dozen years previously, he had founded Bodegas Abadal based on eight centuries of the Roqueta family's vine growing tradition. The first documents that illustrate this tradition date from the year 1199.  The estate focuses on native grape varieties that his ancestors may have grown for they provide the "maximum expression in their native land".

Their "vineyards are distributed on terraces at different levels. They are nourished by a terrain of clay and limestone, and they are surrounded by woodland which leaves its mark in our wines. The result is expressiveness and complexity. The vineyards are immersed in a unique microclimate that is a mix of Mediterranean and continental, with a marked temperature oscillation between day and night."

The winery may not call their vineyard practices Regenerative Farming, but they sure resemble it. Abadal facilitates biodiversity and maintains a high proportion of the forest around their vineyards that protect and nurture a wide variety of animal and plant species. As a result, pests are controlled by this  auxiliary fauna. They also maintain a living soil by sustaining an active microbiology, minimizing compaction, improving its structure and therefore facilitating the work of the roots. Finally, they are very proud of their efforts to  maintain the historical environment by restoring and conserving dry stone huts and vats that date back to the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. 

The very first Abadal Picapoll was released to the market in 1996 and this was also the first 100% Picapoll released from the DO Pla de Bages. A synonym for Piquepoul or Picpoul, the grape may have migrated to Catalunya from the Rhone Valley and Languedoc regions during the earlier Roqueta family history.  The Picapoll grape grows in small compact clusters, with tiny spherical berries that very often show “picades” or marks on the grape skin, which is where the name originated. I sampled the 2021 vintage of the Abadal Picapoll Pla des Bages DO at last month's Spain's Great Match and was surprised by its weight -- assisted by three months aging on lees.  Expect a floral and herbaceous aroma and a complex citrus profile. Fresh acidity provided a lively finish