The Essence of the Olive: From Tree to Taste: How Olive Oil Is Made

Behind every golden drop of olive oil lies a process that blends ancient tradition with modern precision. Much like winemaking or distillation, olive oil production is a balance of art and science — where timing, technique, and terroir determine the outcome. From the grove to the press, each step in the journey shapes the oil’s flavor, aroma, and integrity.

For those in the beverage world, understanding how olive oil is made offers valuable insight into its complexity — and the same appreciation we give to the craftsmanship behind a fine wine or spirit.

Featured Producer
Terre Francescane is located in Umbria and the Gradassi family has been farming olives for 400 years.  In 1639, when – according to an ancient inscription found on a stone in the old olive mill – the Gradassi family began farming olives. Four centuries later they still proudly harvest olives from the same fertile slopes their ancestors did. I picked up this bottle of their L'Italiano Black Ceramic at the Rome airport duty free store and wish I had purchased more. It's slightly sweet with a pleasant bitterness at the finish - easy for a teaspoon a day diet. 

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The Harvest: Timing Is Everything

The olive harvest typically takes place between October and December in the Northern Hemisphere (and April to June in the Southern Hemisphere). The timing of the pick is crucial:

• Early-harvest olives are greener, yielding robust, peppery oils with higher polyphenol content (the antioxidants that give structure and bite).
  

• Late-harvest olives are riper, producing smoother, fruitier oils with a gentler profile and golden hue.
  

Producers choose their harvest moment based on desired flavor, cultivar, and market style — much like vintners deciding when to pick grapes. In many small groves, olives are still hand-harvested, preserving fruit integrity and reducing bruising before pressing.

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From Fruit to Paste: The Milling Process

Once harvested, speed is essential Olives begin to oxidize and ferment quickly after picking, so quality-focused producers rush them to the mill — often within hours.

At the mill (frantoio in Italy or almazara in Spain), olives are washed and ground into a thick paste using hammer or blade mills. This paste contains both oil and water, and the goal is to separate the two while preserving the delicate aromas and flavors.

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Malaxation: The Quiet Transformation

After milling, the olive paste is gently mixed in a process called malaxation. This slow churning (usually 20–40 minutes) allows small oil droplets to coalesce into larger ones — a critical step for flavor development. Temperature control here is key: to qualify as cold-extracted or cold-pressed, the process must stay below 27°C (80°F) to prevent flavor loss and preserve antioxidants.

Professionals often compare this stage to maceration in winemaking or blending in distilling — it’s where texture, balance, and character begin to emerge.

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Extraction: Separating Liquid Gold

Modern producers use cen, the purest and highest-quality grade, obtained mechanically without chemical refinement or excessive heat.

The remaining byproduct, called pomace, can be repurposed for compost, fuel, or lower-grade oil production, aligning with sustainable agricultural practices.

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Storage & Bottling: Protecting Freshness

Fresh olive oil is like fresh juice — vibrant, aromatic, and best enjoyed soon after production. It’s typically stored in stainless steel tanks under nitrogen or inert gas to minimize oxygen exposure and light damage. When bottled, dark glass or tins help preserve quality, and clear labeling ensures transparency on harvest date, origin, and cultivar.

Much like wine, olive oil evolves over time — but rather than aging, it gradually loses intensity. The best producers encourage consumption within 12–18 months of harvest for peak flavor.

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Craft in Every Step

From the meticulous timing of the harvest to the precision of cold extraction, making olive oil demands the same attention to detail that defines great winemaking and distillation. For beverage professionals, understanding this process transforms olive oil from a simple pantry item into a crafted product — one that speaks of place, producer, and philosophy.

For travelers, visiting a working mill during harvest reveals a world alive with sensory energy — the hum of machinery, the scent of fresh-cut grass, and the taste of vivid green oil straight from the press. It’s an experience that captures both the science of extraction and the soul of the Mediterranean.

The Essence of the Olive: Introducing Our Olive Oil Series

Few ingredients in the world of food carry as much heritage, versatility, and symbolism as olive oil. For thousands of years, this golden liquid has nourished civilizations, inspired poets, and defined entire culinary traditions. From the rocky hills of Greece to the sun-drenched groves of Spain, from the ancient presses of Italy to the emerging producers of California and beyond, olive oil remains a cornerstone of culture, craft, and cuisine.

In this new series, we’ll explore olive oil from root to bottle — uncovering the stories, science, and people behind it. We’ll delve into how geography and climate shape its character, how different olive varieties yield distinctive aromas and flavors, and how modern producers balance innovation with ancient methods. You’ll learn what makes an extra virgin truly “extra,” how to taste olive oil like a professional, and how to pair it with food and wine.

Join us on this journey through groves, mills, and markets as we uncover the world of olive oil — one harvest, one taste, one or two stories at a time.

So let's jump in. What is Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO)? 

Extra virgin olive oil is the highest quality grade of olive oil, made exclusively from the first cold-pressing of olives without heat or chemicals, resulting in a superior flavor, aroma, and higher nutritional value. The cold-pressing retains more antioxidants, polyphenols, and vitamin E, contributing to its anti-inflammatory properties and health benefits. Finally, the olive oil must have a free acidity level of 0.8% or less and is assessed by a tasting panel to ensure it has no defects and a distinct fruity character. 

In contrast, virgin olive oil has a higher acidity level (between 0.8% and 2.0%) and may have minor defects detectable by taste, making it less flavorful and less nutritious than EVOO.  Virgin olive oil is often produced by blending refined olive oil with a small amount of virgin or extra virgin oil to improve its taste and color, which reduces its health benefits compared to EVOO. Since virgin olive oil is typically lighter in color, milder in flavor, and less expensive than extra virgin olive oil it is more suitable for cooking at higher temperatures where its flavor is less critical.

The production of EVOO requires olives to be harvested at optimal ripeness and processed quickly (often within 90 minutes) to preserve quality, while virgin olive oil can be made from olives with higher acidity or from later harvests.  The production process will be covered more in depth next week with From Tree to Taste: How Olive Oil Is Made.

Fattoria Poggio Alloro is an agritourism destination providing spectacular views of San Gimignano and the surrounding rolling hills. The farm is located 40km southwest from Florence and only 5km from San Gimignano.  The name Poggio Alloro means Bay Leaf Hill, and it refers to the bay laurel bushes that grow everywhere on their property. There's a multitude of agricultural commodities grown on the one hundred hectares from grapes; fruits; vegetables; and grains: barley, oats, corn, sunflowers, durum, wheat, farro; and olives.

More specifically 1,500 olive trees that are used in the production of extra-virgin olive oil. The Leccino, Moraiolo, and Frantoio varieties are completely hand picked in November, and then cold pressed to guarantee superior quality.   Their EVOO has a golden yellow color with light green tones and has a stone fruit, slightly spicy flavor with an intense finish.

Franciacorta: Italy’s Finest Sparkling Secret

While traveling through Italy last month, Prosecco was everywhere - by the glass or as a spritz - and usually the sparkling wine of choice for our family. Yet I had to make sure we had a decent amount of Franciacorta available to sip and this was normally through grocery store purchases. I would easily label Franciacorta the best of Italian sparkling wine and readily compare favorably to any other international effervescent wine. This Duca Diseo Brut Franciacorta is made in Lombardy by Cantina Chiara Ziliani. It is composed of 75% Chardonnay and 25% Pinot Noir grapes harvested in the vineyards of Provaglio d’Iseo, village in the heart of the Franciacorta DOCG region. It ages 18 months on its own yeasts providing a pleasant bready backbone layered with white peaches and pears. Continual bubbles...

What Is Franciacorta?

Franciacorta is a high-quality, traditional-method sparkling wine made in the province of Brescia, near Lake Iseo. Unlike Italy’s more widely known sparkling wine, Prosecco (which is made using the tank method), Franciacorta is produced using the metodo classico — the same labor-intensive process used in Champagne. This involves a secondary fermentation in the bottle, creating the elegant bubbles and rich, yeasty notes that define the world’s best sparkling wines.

A Protected Name

Franciacorta holds DOCG status (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), Italy’s highest wine classification. This guarantees strict regulations on grape growing, winemaking, and aging, all with the aim of ensuring premium quality. Only sparkling wines produced within the defined Franciacorta region and made according to these rules can bear the name.

The Grapes Behind the Bubbles

The primary grapes used in Franciacorta are:

• Chardonnay – lends elegance, freshness, and structure.
• Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) – adds body and depth.
• Pinot Bianco (Pinot Blanc) – used in smaller amounts for softness and floral notes.
• Some producers are experimenting with Erbamat, an ancient local variety that brings acidity and character.

Styles of Franciacorta

Franciacorta offers several styles to explore:

• Brut – the most common style, crisp and dry with fine bubbles and citrusy elegance.
• Satèn – unique to Franciacorta, made only from white grapes (mostly Chardonnay), with lower pressure and a creamy, silky texture.
• Rosé – includes at least 35% Pinot Nero, bringing structure and red fruit notes.
• Millesimato (Vintage) – made from grapes of a single year, aged at least 30 months on the lees.
• Riserva – aged over 60 months, delivering depth, complexity, and toasty richness.

Aging Matters

Franciacorta must be aged a minimum of 18 months on the lees for non-vintage wines, which is longer than the minimum required for Champagne. This extended aging imparts complexity, with aromas of brioche, toasted nuts, and citrus peel.

Food Pairing & Serving

Franciacorta’s versatility makes it a brilliant companion to a wide range of dishes:

• Brut pairs beautifully with shellfish, sushi, and light pasta dishes.
• Satèn is excellent with creamy risottos or mild cheeses.
• Rosé complements roasted poultry or charcuterie.

Serve chilled (around 6–8°C / 43–46°F) in a tulip-shaped flute or white wine glass to appreciate the aroma and mousse.

Why Franciacorta Deserves a Spot in Your Cellar

Franciacorta remains underappreciated outside of Italy, which means you can often find excellent bottles at a fraction of the price of Champagne. It offers an unbeatable combination of craftsmanship, terroir, and flavor — a true gem for sparkling wine aficionados and curious newcomers alike.

Next time you’re celebrating (or just enjoying a quiet evening), reach beyond the familiar. Let Franciacorta surprise and delight you — Italy’s finest bubbles, ready to sparkle.

Grape Spotlight: Vernaccia di San Gimignano with Fattoria Poggio Alloro

Bonagiunta da Lucca; e quella faccia | Bonagiunta from Lucca; and that face

di là da lui più che l'altre trapunta | beyond him more embossed than the others

ebbe la Santa Chiesa in le sue braccia: | had the Holy Church in its arms:

dal Torso fu, e purga per digiuno | from Torso, and by fasting purges

l'anguille di Bolsena e la vernaccia". | the eels of Bolsena and the Vernaccia."

--Dante Alighieri's Purgatorio Canto XXIV

Vernaccia di San Gimignano, perhaps Tuscany's greatest white wine. It has long been esteemed by Italians from Dante's time through the modern era when in 1966 it became the first Italian wine to be awarded DOC status and 1993 upgraded to a DOCG status (the only Tuscany white wine having this designation). The Italian hill town of San Gimignano is surrounded by land that used to be the ancient Ligurian sea. Thus fossils and shells permeate the pliocene soil and clay providing mineral composition to the Vernaccia wines. These wines are also known for a string floral bouquet and abundant acidity. 

Fattoria Poggio Alloro specializes in not only Vernaccia di San Gimignano, but also a Grappa made from the must of the processed grapes.  The name Poggio Alloro means Bay Leaf Hill, and it refers to the bay laurel bushes that grow everywhere on their property. This is a destination providing spectacular views of San Gimignano and the surrounding rolling hills as well as organically growing a multitude of agricultural commodities from grapes; olives; fruits; vegetables; and grains: barley, oats, corn, sunflowers, durum, wheat, and farro to produce the delicious durum, semolina and farro pasta. With these, they offer cooking classes as well as a round of wine tasting.

These wines include, of course, Vernaccia di San Gimignano; but also Sangiovese to produce Chianti wine; and Canaiolo, Volorino, Malvasia and Trebbiano to produce the traditional Vinsanto sweet wine. The Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG is 100% Vernaccia and on the nose expect honeysuckle and perhaps tropical fruit. On the palate notice the minerality - the saline jumps forth - then alternating with pear, citrus and slight bitter almonds. 

The Grappa di Vinacce di Vernaccia is a distillate obtained from the pomace (the solid part of the grape composed of skins and seeds) of Vernaccia grapes. This grappa is noticeably fragrant with both citrus and stone fruit mixed with a soft petrol. 

Puglia's Amaro Salento: Bitter Liqueurs and Limoncello

Throughout Puglia we had seen bottles of Amaro Salento Classico in various grocery stores and restaurants and by chance we were passing near their Veglie distillery on our drive to Porto Cesareo. Hoping to tour the facility we pulled in to find founder Realino Mazzotta out front but unfortunately learned we could enter the distillery. However, he called for his son Francesco to bring us a samples of several products and it was immediately evident that our detour was a prudent decision. 

The inspiration for Amaro Salento s.r.l. started in the 1940s when Realino's father Raffaele opened Bar Venezia in the center of the small town of Veglie.  Realino remembers him serving coffee corretto - a "correct" coffee with extra sugar and augmented with a bitter liqueur. During this time in Salento, home-made liqueurs were a common activity with very few commercialized spirits. Only in a few bars - like Bar Venezia - was it possible to sample liqueurs crafted from the maceration of native herbs and roots. 

The recipe used by Raffaele was never officially written down and was suggested by a monk from the nearby convent of the Friars Minor of San Giuseppe da Copertino.  This liqueur was apparently much much beloved by the American soldiers stationed in the town after the Liberation. And from our experience beloved by American tourists 75 years later. Sadly Raffaele died when Realino was young and the recipe was lost.

As life lead Realino to become an esteemed international conductor, he "maintained spiritual contact with his father by traveling through the fields and along the Ionian coast to collect rare herbs. Over the years, research also spilled over into libraries, through a meticulous selection of manuscripts that referenced some 'Herbe amarissime' (1767, Life of Saint Joseph of Cupertino – Domenico Bernino) that the saint used during penitential fasts."  

In 2014 Amaro Salento s.r.l. was born with the release of Amaro Salento Classico with the Amarissimo released a year later.  Francesco relayed that the Classico was more in line with a sweeter amaro whereas the Amarissimo was aligned to a fernet. I chose the Classico and specifically it is comprised of 45 herbs, vegetables, roots, peels, seeds, flowers, and rhizomes, including cinchona, gentian, bitter and sweet orange, elderberry, wormwood, chamomile, pigeon pea, and quassia. Some of these botanicals I've never heard of. But this is a fantastic representation of an amaro - much nicer than most of the selections we tasted throughout Italy. 

We also purchased two other bottles - their Limoncello Salento and Bitter Rurale. The Limoncello is practically finished after being served nightly since our return as a palate cleansing digestif.  It explodes with lemon flavor. Yet the biggest surprise has been the Bitter Rurale; throw out the Campari. It is a fantastic maceration of bitter orange, sweet orange, Roman wormwood, pomegranate, cascarilla, cinchona, gentian, and quassia. This bitter liqueur will be deeply missed after our last sip or Negroni.

Getting Acquainted with Fernet-Branca

Who enjoys Fernet-Branca? We were able to tour their Milano facility and even though Italian was spoken, learned plenty.

Fernet-Branca's history began in 1845 when Bernardino Branca,  a self-taught herbalist, formulated this bitter liqueur. He and his sons marketed it as a cure for many common ailments and eventually started exporting throughout the world. We learned that they started exporting to Argentina in 1905 and this country is easily its top market. They even build an Argentinean distillery in 1925.

The exact composition of botanicals and herbs are secret but we saw a wheel that includes most of the ingredients. These are sourced from all over the globe and include Chinese rhubarb, Aloe ferox (bitter aloe), cinchona, chocolate, quinine, angelica, gentian, galanga, chamomile, linden (Tiliae flos), iris, saffron, zedoary, myrrh, and cinchona.  Fernet-Branca has a higher alcohol content, at 39%, and lower sugar content than most other amaro and is aged in large barrique barrels. This helps explain its unique profile.  

Apparently, Argentineans and  Italians prefer consuming Fernet-Branca over ice with Coke. I would rather someone suggest an alternative cocktail.

Gambero Rosso's Vini D’Italia 2025 Roadshow

On April 30th, Gambero Rosso, Italy's premier food and wine media group, returned to Washington DC celebrating the Vini D’Italia 2025 guidebook! The event featured a walk around tasting of hundreds of Italy’s top Italian wines representing a fraction of the 2,600 wineries and more than 25,000 wines reviewed by the guidebook's experts. As part of the event, Gambero Rosso also hosted a Wines of Abruzzo masterclass in partnership with wines of Consorzio Tutela Vini D'Abruzzo and led by Marco Sabellico, the Editor-In-Chief of the Vini D’Italia 2025 guide.

The masterclass focused on Pecorino within several different regulatory zones: IGT Pecorino, Abruzzo DOC Pecorino, Colline Pescaresi, and the Tullum DOCG. The wines shared a persistent floral character, and fabulous acidity, while alternating between citrus and tropical fruits. My favorites of the nine featured were the Cascina Del Colle Terre Di Chieti Abruzzo DOC Pecorino Superiore Aimè 2023 and the Cantina Tollo Feudo Antico Pecorino Tullum DOCG Biologico Fermentazoine Spontanea 2023.  The latter is comprised of 100% organically grown Pecorino that was fermented naturally in cement tanks and then rested on its lees for six months.  This is a wonderful wine, golden delicious apples with a true sense of herbaciousness lifted by persistent acidity.  The Aimè is farmed organically and is profoundly more fruit forward with strong ripe peaches and tropical notes. That profile is balanced by lively minerality. Two fantastic wines. 

Moving into the Embassy's atrium and the walkaround tasting I focused on two regions: Puglia and Lazio. I started with Amastuola, a wine resort and farm located just north of Taranto where they organically farm ten grape varieties. By design, the 100 hectare estate "brings together the two concepts of functionality and aesthetics. The rows of vines were planted on the basis of the design conceived by the great landscape designer Fernando Caruncho. The vine spaliers draw harmonious parallel waves that follow each other for about 3 km. " Their IGP Puglia Bialento di Amastuola 2024 is a blend of Malvasia and Fiano and provides fresh pears, white grapefruit, and herbaceous notes. The IGP Puglia Primitivo di Amastuola 2021 is full bodied dark fruit with layers of light spices and juicy tannins.  Then there's  Negroamaro - a favorite Puglia grape - and their IGP Puglia Negroamaro di Amastuola 2021 shows luscious soft fruit  and a juicy spiced finish. 

Masca del Tacco is located in the cultural heart of central-northern Salento with 200 hectares of vines within a triangle of Brindisi, Taranto and Lecce. They farm Negroamaro, Primitivo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Fiano, and the Brindisi based Masseria Paticchi vineyard contains the regal Susumaniello grape. They poured a very delicious and surprisingly mineral laden Susumaniello Rosato 2024 and well as the full bodied Susumaniello 2023 with its layers of fresh and inviting fruit.  

From Lazio and just southeast of Rome, Colle di Maggio introduced us to the indigenous Bombino Blanco grape which they grow in volcanic soils along with Fiano, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot. These vines are over 50 years old, are planted 150-200 meters above sea level, and benefit from their proximity to the Tyrrhenian Sea. Bombino Blanca is a late ripening variety and disease tolerant grape primarily used in blends and the Sirio Lazio Bianco IGP is a delicious combination of Chardonnay and Bombino. They release another excellent Chardonnay blend in the Lunapigra Lazio Bianco IGP -- this time paired with Fiano. 

Located a little closer to the sea, Casale del Giglio was a most pleasant surprise. The winery started as a small family venture in 1967 then expanded in 1985 with the planting of an experimental vineyard of 60 different vines. This translates today to a large portfolio of a dozen flagship grape varieties, with two very intriguing options: Viognier and Bellone. The Lazio IGP Blanco Viognier is a very rare sighting of this Rhone grape in the Italian landscape and provides full fruit - with layers of peaches and apricots. The Lazio IGP Blanco Bellone shows that this ancient (once sited by Pliny the Elder) and drought resistant grape thrives in the sandy soils close to the sea. The wine shows tropical fruit and fresh acidity that is extremely quaffable. This is one to seek. 

Grape Spotlight: Sicilia DOC Grillo

"Beginning with the Greeks, who arrived on the eastern part of Sicily in the 8th century BCE, the idea of methodical grapegrowing practices for the purpose of quality winemaking firmly took root on the island. As the centuries passed, Phoenicians and Romans traded Sicilian wines based on their power and their distinctive qualities. The best vines were propagated, viticulture developed, and thus Sicilian wines were promoted on and off the island. Today, we see the fruits of these labors. Though many things have changed, most of Sicily’s indigenous grape varieties and time-honored winegrowing traditions continue to play an important role. Thanks to meticulous vineyard tending and gentle grape handling in Sicily’s wineries, Sicilia DOC wines feature the medley of flavors that Sicily has been known for since ancient times and which represent some of the best wines of Italy." -- Wines of Sicily DOC

Sicily is Italy's southernmost wine region and is the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea It is blessed with consistently bright sunshine and reliably moderate rainfall, Sicily's classic Mediterranean climate is ideally suited to the production of wine grapes. This is because the warm, dry climate means that mildews and rots are kept to a minimum, particularly in well-ventilated areas that benefit from coastal breezes. This low disease pressure means that chemical sprays are hardly needed, and much Sicilian wine is produced from organic grapes.

There are a number of denominations spread throughout the island with the broadest being Terre Siciliane IGT and Sicilia DOC. As of 2017, all varietal wines made from either Grillo or Nero d'Avola must be classified as Sicilia DOC.  According to wine-searcher.com, "Sicily's soils, and the mountains from which they came, are of particular interest when it comes to studying the island's viticulture. Mount Etna, the towering stratovolcano, dominates the island's eastern skyline, and is responsible for the mineral-rich, dark soils that characterize the Etna DOC vineyards. Vines are now being planted higher up on the volcanic slopes, to capitalize on the cooler air and richer soils there. Fifty miles (80km) south, the Iblei Mountains stake their place in eastern Sicilian wine. On their lower slopes and the coastal plains below them, the DOCs of Siracusa, Noto, Eloro and Vittoria sweep from east to west, forming a crescent that mirrors the arcing coastline. In western Sicily, the volcanic hills are less individually dramatic but just as influential to the soil type".

Apparently the origins of Grillo are still being debated, but what is clear, is that this grape is well suited to the hot, dry Sicilian climate. Traditionally Grillo has been used in the popular Marsala fortified wines because of its high levels of sugar and the ease with which it oxidizes. More recently, winemakers have tuned their processes to use Grillo to make fresh, light white wine with nutty, fruit-driven flavors.  Some winemakers have started using lees contact to create deeper, fuller-bodied expressions of the grape, with aromas and flavors that resemble ripe citrus and spice. 

During last month's Slow Wine tour in Washington DC, I attended the From Vine to Glass: Sicilia DOC's Native Varietals seminar sponsored by Wines of Sicily DOC.  This seminar featured a trio of very distinct Grillo wines.  

Baglio Bonsignore "OI" Sicilia DOC 2022 Grillo
The winery farms 13 hectares of grapes near Naro, in Southwestern Sicily, with four hectares planted with 10 year old Grillo vines.  The vineyards are planted at about 1,000 feet in limestone and clayish soils. We started with a very complex wine, tropical and nutty aromas that follows with loads of character. Fresh and mineral driven with some creamy depth.  

Bagliesi "Terre Di Toto" Sicilia DOC 2022 Grillo
The winery is also located near Naro and the estates are spread over twenty-five hectares in the province of Agrigento and also planted around 1,00 feet and similar calcareous-clayey soils.  This wine is a blend of  Grillo grapes from the estates and is leaner with bright green apples, slight grass, and salivating salinity. This is a patio consumer -- it won't last long.

Di Giovanna "Helios" Sicilia DOC 2022 Grillo
This winery is located in the mountainside of Monte Genuardo, a protected nature reserve and situated on the western side of Sicily,  They operate five family estates of almost 100 hectares -- composed of 65 hectares of vineyards, 14 hectares of olive groves, and 21 hectares of wheat fields and forests. These vineyards are  located in the small DOC of Contessa Entellina within the Sambuca di Sicilia DOC and most are planted on the limestone and ancient marine slopes of Monte Genuardo up to 2,700 feet above seal level.  This is an interesting wine, both refreshing and funky featuring  ripe citrus and spicy aromas and flavors. There's also significant structure with appreciable tannins and minerality on the finish. 

Grape Spotlight: Cortese di Gavi DOCG from Riva Leone

The Gavi or Cortese di Gavi DOCG is an appellation covering still and sparkling white wines produced from the indigenous Cortese grape grown in and around the town of Gavi in southern Piedmont, Italy, roughly 50km (30 miles) due north of Genoa on the shores of the Mediterranean. -- wine-searcher.com

The designation of origin Gavi or Cortese di Gavi DOCG was established in 1998 based on a pre-existing DOC created in 1974. The DOCG area is a predominantly hilly area and vines are planted within 11 municipalities in the southern part of the province of Alessandria. The soils are primarily alluvial, calcareous, and limestone resulting in low yields and decent minerality. It's climate contains elements of both Continental and Mediterranean with abundant winter rainfall followed by hot and dry summers. The summer conditions are tempered by the influence of winds from the sea with abundant sunshine allows the grapes to slowly ripe. And the high diurnal temperature range between night and day allows for the grapes to retain acidity and boist the aromatics.

Cortese is a white grape variety most famously associated with the crisp, lime-scented wines of Gavi. The variety is known for its bracing acidity and its ability to retain freshness even when grown in warm environments. The variety has been grown in the southeastern part of Piedmont for hundreds of years with documents on Cortese dating back to the beginning of the 17th century (wine-searcher.com). The thin skinned grape can be very rigorous and vines and grapes must be pruned and dropped which also helps prevent rot by allowing more airflow. And the warn environment in Gavi allows the grapes to ripen fully balancing the high acidity.

Mack & Schuhle offers a Riva Leone line of wines from the Piedmont which includes the Riva Leone Gavi 2021 ($14.99). According to the Consorzio Tutela del Gavi, 2021 provided conditions in which "the grapes revealed a slow maturation ... stands out compared to previous years, with a better stability of the malic acid which suggests an excellent qualitative potential for the 2021 Gavi DOCG". For this wine, the grapes were lightly pressed and the must fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel vats. This is a delicious wine, starting with powerful aromatics of pineapple and pears leading to a lemon-lime profile, texture and minerality, finishing with racy - fresh acids. A complete bargain. 

Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo DOC with the Villa Gemma Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC Superiore

Cerasuolo (chair-ah-swolo) translates loosely to "cherry-colored” in Italian and refers to Italian rosés in general. However the Abruzzo province is one of the few appellations in Italy exclusively dedicated to rosé, the Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC. This designation was established in 2010 and mandates that 85-100% of the rosé wine consist of Montepulciano and the remaining percentage be filled with local white grapes. Montepulciano's dark color and tannins give the rosatos body with characters of cinnamon, orange peel, strawberry, rose and a mineral acidity. 

We received a sample of Cerasuolo from Masciarelli, a leading producer in Abruzzo and the producer with vineyards in all four provinces (Chieti, Pescara, Teramo, l’Aquila). The winery has been producing a rosato since 1986 and  Villa Gemma is their flagship line from  winemaker Gianni Masciarelli. The Montepulciano grapes for the Villa Gemma Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC Superiore ($20) were harvested from 30 year old vines from the San Martino sulla Marrucina estate in Chieti, destemmed and macerated on their skins for 24 hours, before fermentation in stainless steel.  This rosato has exceptional texture and body with raspberries, pomegranate, and herbaceous aromas followed by a full red raspberry profile enveloped with minerality and subtle mint and finishing with refreshing acids. 

Grape Spotlight: Masciarelli Trebbiano d'Abruzzo

Abruzzo is a naturalist's dream "as half of the region's territory is protected through national parks and nature reserves, more than any administrative region on the continent, leading it to be dubbed 'the greenest region in Europe'".  That could be why it has been occupied since the "Neolithic era, with the earliest artifacts dating to beyond 6,500 BC. In the 6th century BC, the Etruscans introduced viticulture into the area which continued with the Romans -- who contributed to much of Abruzzo’s recognizable history.  Even after the fall of Rome, the Lombards, Byzantines, Magyars, and Normans successively imparted some type of influence in Abruzzo.   Throughout these periods, viticulture has been a constant with multi-generation small plots, sometimes less than a few hectares, being passed down through successive generations. 

Abruzzo is located directly east of Rome and bordered by the Molise wine region to the south, the Marche to the north, the Lazio to the west, and the Adriatic to its east.  It is further divided into several sub-regions: Chieti, Pescara, Controguerra, Teramo, and L’Aquila (L’Aquilano) -- with Chieti being the prime winemaking region (75% of vineyards).  Most of Abruzzo is rugged with  65% mountainous with this landscape assisting grape growing by blocking most storms from the west. And to the east, the Adriatic Sea provides a moderating Mediterranean climate for these vineyards; vines that are predominately planted in calcareous clay soils.

The most popular grape varieties in all sub-regions are Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Trebbiano d'Abruzzo.  Last week we focused on Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and now Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, both through the wines of Masciarelli. Trebbiano is grown throughout Italy, but in Abruzzo, Trebbiano Abruzzese is a different clone, an ancient version indigenous to the region.  The wines are generally "golden in color, typically dry but fruit-forward, with a delicate bouquet and refreshing, crisp acidity".  -- wine-searcher.com

The only Abruzzo producer with vineyards in all four provinces (Chieti, Pescara, Teramo, l’Aquila), Masciarelli wines demonstrate the diversity of Abruzzo terroir.  The winery was founded in the early 1980s by Gianna Masciarelli when produced the first vintage of wine from 2.5 hectares of vines he had planted in land owned by his grandfather near the family home in the province of Chieti. Over the next couple decades production increased as more estates were planted and Gianna introduced several innovations to the region. He was the first to introduce the Guyot training system in Abruzzo and use French oak barrels to age Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.  Tragically Gianna died suddenly in 2008 but his wifie of almost 20 years, Marina Cvetić, seamlessly continued the progress towards higher quality and expansion. Today, their eldest daughter Miriam Lee manages the winery with Marina and they focus on keeping all wines estate grown while expanding plantings, transitioning to organic viticulture, and dialing back the use of oak.

The Masciarelli Trebbiano d'Abruzzo DOC 2022 ($16) is a friendly wine with a floral aroma, flavors of stone peaches and creamy lemons and a refreshingly acidic finish. It is fermented and aged in stainless steel and like the Masciarelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC, the grapes are sourced from several of the estate vineyards in Chieti, Pescara, & Teramo. 

Grape Spotlight: Masciarelli Montepulciano d'Abruzzo

Abruzzo is a naturalist's dream "as half of the region's territory is protected through national parks and nature reserves, more than any administrative region on the continent, leading it to be dubbed 'the greenest region in Europe'".  That could be why it has been occupied since the "Neolithic era, with the earliest artifacts dating to beyond 6,500 BC. In the 6th century BC, the Etruscans introduced viticulture into the area which continued with the Romans -- who contributed to much of Abruzzo’s recognizable history.  Even after the fall of Rome, the Lombards, Byzantines, Magyars, and Normans successively imparted some type of influence in Abruzzo.  Throughout these periods, viticulture has been a constant with multi-generation small plots, sometimes less than a few hectares, being passed down through successive generations. 

Abruzzo is located directly east of Rome and bordered by the Molise wine region to the south, the Marche to the north, the Lazio to the west, and the Adriatic to its east.  It is further divided into several sub-regions: Chieti, Pescara, Teramo, and L’Aquila (L’Aquilano) -- with Chieti being the prime winemaking region (75% of vineyards).  Most of Abruzzo is rugged with  65% mountainous with this landscape assisting grape growing by blocking most storms from the west. And to the east, the Adriatic Sea provides a moderating Mediterranean climate for these vineyards; vines that are predominately planted in calcareous clay soils.

The most popular grape varieties in all sub-regions are Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Trebbiano d'Abruzzo.  This week we will focus on Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and next week Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, both through the wines of Masciarelli.

Montepulciano  is a late-ripening, thick-skinned, deep-colored grape indigenous to Abruzzo. It provides a robustness that is balanced by considerable acidity and noticeable tannins. That profile means wines ranging from firmly structured and willing to age to lighter styles, including rosés with some heft, depending on decisions made in the vineyard and winery. The wines are known for their fruit and spice characters.

The only Abruzzo producer with vineyards in all four provinces (Chieti, Pescara, Teramo, l’Aquila), Masciarelli wines demonstrate the diversity of Abruzzo terroir.  The winery was founded in the early 1980s by Gianna Masciarelli when produced the first vintage of wine from 2.5 hectares of vines he had planted in land owned by his grandfather near the family home in the province of Chieti. Over the next couple decades production increased as more estates were planted and Gianna introduced several innovations to the region. He was the first to introduce the Guyot training system in Abruzzo and use French oak barrels to age Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.  Tragically Gianna died suddenly in 2008 but his wifie of almost 20 years, Marina Cvetić, seamlessly continued the progress towards higher quality and expansion. Today, their eldest daughter Miriam Lee manages the winery with Marina and they focus on keeping all wines estate grown while expanding plantings, transitioning to organic viticulture, and dialing back the use of oak.

The Masciarelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC 2020 ($16) is an example of the latter approach. This was the original wine that Gianna Masciarelli first produced back in 1981 and today is the company's best-selling product and the flagship of the Classic Line. The grapes are sourced from several of the estate vineyards in Chieti, Pescara, & Teramo and are fermented and aged in stainless steel. It is a juicy wine, showing dark berries and earthiness and lifted by sufficient acidity and approachable tannins. And appealing everyday wine. 

Herbal Liqueurs: Amaro Montenegro 1885

We are sticking with Amaro in our Herbal Liqueur series with the Amaro Montenegro 1885. As the name suggests, this liqueur was launched in 1885 by Stanislao Cobianchi in Bologne, Italy.  Cobianchi was born in Bologne in 1862 and soon traded in his clerical robes and traveled the world tasting dozens of botanicals. Upon returning home to Bologne he experimented for four years with various recipes and when satisfied established the Cobianchi Stanislao Steam Distillery in 1885 and produced the Elisir Lungavita. Eleven years later, the future King of Italy, Prince Vittorio Emanuele III, married Princess Elena of Montenegro and this event inspired Cobianchi to change the name to Amaro Montenegro. For all intents, King Victor Emmanuel III and Queen Elena were the last monarchs in Italy with the country voting to establish a Republic in 1946.

The Amaro Montenegro is produced using 40 botanicals, including spices, dried fruits, roots, seeds, bark, citrus peels, flowers, and species of wood sourced from around the world. Of these 40 botanicals, only 13 are publicly known and are categorized into 3 different aroma profiles: citrus, spice, and herbal.  After the botanicals are boiled, macerated, and distilled, 12 unique essences remain. These essences then undergo a delicate blending process performed by the Master Herbalist to create the six notes of Amaro Montenegro: bitter & herbaceous, spicy & floral, sweet & roasted, fresh & balsamic, fruity & vegetal, and warm & tropical. There is also a final step called the Premio. This involves the micro-distillation of 5 secret botanicals that is so potent that for every 15,000 liters of Amaro Montenegro, only one liter of Premio is used. Cobianchi wanted to create a unique bottle for this elixir and hand-drew the outline for this iconic bottle.

This is a very pleasant and easy sipping amaro. On the nose expect oranges and baking spices which continue into the core flavor. The lasting finish includes limes and interestingly, cucumbers, for a very pleasant and easy elixir. Amaro Montenegro suggests several cocktails so we mixed the following:

Monte Mulled (because it's the season)
Warm up equal parts Montenegro, brandy, unfiltered apple juice, and one teaspoon of honey in a heated saucepan. Heat until steaming, then ladle into a glass mug, and garnish with a cinnamon stick.

Monte & Mezcal (because I love Mezcal)
Fill a rocks glass with ice and pour equal parts Montenegro and mezcal into the glass. Very simple.

Herbal Liqueurs: Amaro Nonino Quintessentia®

Amaro translates to “bitter” in Italian, but the category of bittersweet herbaceous liqueurs is far from one-note. It spans a range of flavors and styles, from light and citrusy Aperol to bracing and minty Fernet-Branca, not to mention countless artisanal brands you may have never heard of. An amaro is a bittersweet herbal liqueur that is made by infusing an alcoholic base, such as a neutral spirit, grape brandy, or wine, with botanical ingredients that include herbs, citrus peels, roots, spices, and flowers; the exact recipes are often closely held secrets. The resulting liquid is sweetened and then aged. Amari (the plural of amaro) can be produced anywhere, but they’re a cornerstone of Italian culture. Monasteries started making bittersweet liqueurs as far back as the 13th century, touting their healing properties and digestive benefits, and in the 1800s Italian producers such as Averna and Ramazzotti took amari to the masses. Today, amari are most often sipped as pre-dinner aperitivi to whet the appetite or post-dinner digestive to aid in digestion. -- Audrey Morgan, Liquor.com

We are staying within the Herbal Liqueurs category and moving to the Italian specialty: Amaro. And the gold standard starts with the Amaro Nonino Quintessentia®.

The Grappa Nonino Distillery was founded in 1897 by Orazio Nonino in the Friuli region of Italy and has run through six generations as Benito and Giannola passed control over to their three daughters Cristina, Antonella, and Elisabetta (the 5th generation).  And the 6th generation has already made an impact with Cristina's daughter Francesca taking a role in the family operations.

In 1933, Antonio Nonino (the third generation) starts producing Nonino liqueurs like the Amaro Carnia, an infusion of herbs from the mountains of Friuli, using the grappa as the base. In 1940, "Silvia Nonino – Antonio’s wife and an excellent cook – left a widower and becomes the first woman to manage a distillery; her great knowledge of botanicals leads her to create the 'Aperitivo Bianco Nonino', a drink for the pleasure of the palate and the spirit. It is the first time that in the distillery they experience the female touch in the art of liqueurs and distillation. Silvia will be the first of a long series of Nonino woman distillers". During her tenure Silvia also enriches the recipe of the Amaro Carnia, with selected botanicals, to create a more complex amaro:  Amaro del Friuli.

In 1973, Benito (4th generation) and Giannola Nonino started a worldwide distilling trend by introducing the very first single variety grappa -- Nonino Monovitigno, made from Picolit - an indigenous grape from the Nonino distillery's home region of Friuli Venezia Giulia. The concept was revolutionary because suppliers traditionally combined the pomace (the post-pressed pulpy matter of grape skins, flesh, seeds, and stems) for all grape varieties into the same bins. The combined pomace was usually then fermented and distilled into grappa. And most winemakers were reluctant to change this process until Giannola recruited the wives to separate the varieties in exchange for higher payments.

In 1992, the distillery replaced grappa in the recipe of the family amaro with ÙE® Grape distillate aged for a minimum of 12 months in barriques and small casks. This grape distillate was created by Giannola and Benito in 1984 using a discontinuous distillation* process in copper steam stills. This amaro was also rebranded as Amaro Nonino Quintessentia®. The ancient family recipe still uses herbs from the mountains of Friuli and the grape distillate is usually a blend of Ribolla Gialla, Moscato, and Malvasia grape pomace. The Quintessentia® is packaged in an old pharmacy bottle at 70 proof. 

This is a lighter-bodied and friendly liqueur showing citrus and forest herbs. Our bartender friends love its suitability in cocktails like the Paper Plane. Cheers.

The Paper Plane
3/4 ounce bourbon
3/4 ounce Aperol
3/4 ounce Amaro Nonino Quintessentia
3/4 ounce lemon juice, freshly squeezed

* Discontinuous distillation means that at the end of each "batch", or distillation cycle, the distilled grape pomace is unloaded from the cauldrons and replaced with other fresh grape pomace ready to be distilled. Therefore, between each cycle of distillation, it is necessary to stop the process to allow loading and unloading. The "discontinuous" method represents the historic and artisan system to produce Grappa and is not to be confused with the industrial "continuous" method.

Grape Spotlight: Oltrepò Pavese DOC Pinot Nero and Others

Lombardy is one of Italy's largest and most populous regions and is located in the north-central part of the country. It consists of five DOCG, 21 DOC, and 15 IGP titles with the Oltrepò Pavese DOC being one of the larger and better-known regions. Oltrepò  Pavese refers to Pavia across the Po -- or more meaningful - the area south of the Po River. The region lies in southwest Lombardy and shares many common features with neighboring Piedmont as both regions were once ruled by the House of Savoy.

Viticulture has been prevalent in Oltrepò Pavese for thousands of years as evidenced by the discovery of a fossilized caràsa, that is, a fossilized vine trunk, 25 cm long by 6 cm in diameter, found near Casteggio (Consorzio Tutela Vini Oltrepò Pavese). And why not. According to wine-searcher.com, "the vineyards of the Oltrepo zone sit among the foothills between the Apennines and the river Po in the provinces of Alessandria, Genoa, and Piacenza. The vines benefit from an excellent microclimate (thanks to its proximity to the Po), well-drained soils rich in clay and calcareous marl, and a terroir often compared to that of Barolo".  In 1884 Oltrepò Pavese was home to at least 225 native vines, but today there are just a dozen that are the most widespread.

 
Last week I attended a fascinating lunch at Cafe Milano featuring wines from Oltrepò Pavese presented by Carlo Veronese, the director of the Consorzio Vini Oltrepò. Even though there are 20 classifications within Oltrepò Pavese, this tasting focused on the Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG, Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Grigio, Pinot Nero dell'Oltrepo Pavese, and Sangue di Giuda dell'Oltrepo Pavese. And notice that the wines of Oltrepò Pavese are generally named from the vines from which they are made and not just the region.

 
Pinot Nero dell'Oltrepò Pavese DOC
Oltrepò Pavese is considered the Pinot Nero (Noir) capital of Italy as more Pinot Nero is planted there than anywhere else in Italy. Interestingly, the original genotypes of Pinot Noir were already cultivated in the Oltrepò areas by the ancient Romans and may have been the source of Pinot Noir in the south of France. However, the current Pinot Noir vines derive from French selections that were planted after the Phylloxera epidemic. Pinot Nero can be labeled as a vintage wine or a Reserva with a minimum of two years of aging.

The Cantina di Casteggio Pinot Nero Dell'Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2020 is a lighter style but with noticeable tannins and a little chewy mint.

The Dino Torti Pinot Nero Dell'Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2019 was perhaps my favorite despite the interesting branding. It's floral with creamy red raspberries and cherries and a viscosity throughout.

The Mazzolino Pinot Nero Dell'Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2018 was the biggest of the reds, aged twelve months in oak and offering a tea and pepper aroma, a full-bodied interior, with a firm and lasting finish.

Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG
Metodo classico is Italy's version of Champagne's methode classique and Pinot Nero is dominant in all wines made under this title.  The sparkling wine can be made either as a white or rosé and 70 percent or more of the final blend must be Pinot Nero. This percentage increases to 85 percent for wines claiming the varietal title Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico Pinot Nero.  Picked at the early stages of skin ripeness, Pinot Nero displays a good balance of acidity and sugar required for these sparkling wines.

The Asburgico Oltrepò Pavese DOCG Metodo Classico Pinot Nero 2018 explodes in the mouth with textured citrus notes.

The Azienda Agricola Quaquarini Francesco Oltrepò Pavese DOCG Metodo Classico Pinot Nero 2014 needed a few minutes to open then the floral, white grapefruit and a little tropic fruit notes rushed out.

Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC
This title applies to still and frizzante white wines containing at least 85 percent Pinot Grigio.

The Vanzini Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC was an eye-opener on the region's richer style and orangish-colored versions of this varietal wine.

Sangue di Giuda dell'Oltrepo Pavese DOC
The title translates to "Blood of Judas" and applies to sweet red wines which can be still, frizzante (semi-sparkling), or spumante. Barbera and Croatina must each account for between 25 and 65 percent of any blend with Pinot Nero, Uva Rara, and Vespolina alone or in any combination, accounting for 45 percent. The intriguing and sometimes controversial name Sangue di Giuda means "Blood of Judah" or "Blood of Judas". 

The Losito & Guarini Sangue Di Giuda Dell'Oltrepò Pavese DOC, C'era Una Volta 2021 is a low alcohol (6%), full-bodied, and fresh wine where the sweetness is partially obscured by the abundant acidity.

Oltrepò Pavese Riesling
The Ca Di Frara Oliva Oltrepò Pavese Riesling DOC also provides a darker copper color with tropical and petrol notes.

Oltrepò Pavese Barbera
The Ca Montebello Oltrepò Pavese Barbera DOC 2020 is fruit-forward, and very friendly with a floral start and a slight mocha tail.

Grape Spotlight: Abruzzo DOC Pecorino

“…one morning in September, before the harvest, I and others went to Arquata del Tronto, in the hamlet of Pescara, where they had pointed out to me an ancient vineyard cultivated with Pecorino. Arrived on the site I was indicated by the owner of the land Mr. Cafini some shoots that were evidently two, or three, generations old. In the following February I went back to pick up the shoots and took them to my company in Ripatransone, where I made the first grafts: my idea was to cultivate it in purity. I know, it was a crazy idea, everyone said it, my friends always repeated it to me in the winter evenings in front of the fire, but I wanted that wine, I knew it was possible, and I never doubted” -- quote from Guido Cocci Grifoni in The Rebirth of Pecorino

Abruzzo is a naturalist's dream "as half of the region's territory is protected through national parks and nature reserves, more than any administrative region on the continent, leading it to be dubbed 'the greenest region in Europe'".  That could be why it has been occupied since the "Neolithic era, with the earliest artifacts dating to beyond 6,500 BC. In the 6th century BC, the Etruscans introduced viticulture into the area which continued with the Romans -- who contributed to much of Abruzzo’s recognizable history.  Even after the fall of Rome, the Lombards, Byzantines, Magyars, and Normans successively imparted some type of influence in Abruzzo.   Throughout these periods, viticulture has been a constant with multi-generation small plots, sometimes less than a few hectares, being passed down through successive generations. 

Abruzzo is located directly east of Rome and bordered by the Molise wine region to the south, the Marche to the north, the Lazio to the west, and the Adriatic to its east.  It is further divided into several sub-regions: Controguerra, Teramo, Chieti, Pescara, and L’Aquila (L’Aquilano) -- with Chieti being the prime winemaking region (75% of vineyards).  Most of Abruzzo is rugged with  65% mountainous with this landscape assisting grape growing by blocking most storms from the west. And to the east, the Adriatic Sea provides a moderating Mediterranean climate for these vineyards; vines that are predominately planted in calcareous clay soils.

The most popular grape varieties in all sub-regions are Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Trebbiano d'Abruzzo. That being said, our current focus is Pecorino, a light-skinned wine grape that, in general, produces dry, minerally, driven, floral, and herbaceous wines. According to our friends at Wiki, "Pecorino is a very old variety that, as believed by ampelographers, likely originated as a wild grapevine growing in the Sibillini Mountains that was eventually domesticated for wine production".  Its name derives from the Italian word pecora, meaning sheep, most likely because sheep would often eat the grapes while moving through the vineyards. 

Pecorino's home region is actually in Marche and in the last couple of centuries was slowly phased out because of low yields. By the mid-20th century, it was thought to be extinct. But in the 1980s, Guido Cocci Grifoni decided to "search for this native vine in the wild lands of the Sibillini National Park" and the quote above is how he traced an old vine raised in Pecorino in Arquata del Tronto.  "In February 1983, the first rows of vines were grafted in different geographical exposures within the grounds of the  Cocci Grifoni Estate. And just two years later the first demijohns of wine were produced". -- The Rebirth of Pecorino

Since then, the variety's plantings have grown exponentially, and Pecorino is now found across the Marche, Abruzzo, Umbria, and Tuscany.  "The 'Abruzzo' DOC was created to protect and enhance the main autochthonous regional grape varieties, in particular Pecorino and Passerina, and by means of the 'Abruzzo' DOC, the territory of origin of these wines has been directly identified, as a guarantee of their quality, typicality, and origin." -- Consorzio Vini d'Abruzzo

This month, the Vini d’Italia 2022 experience came to Washington DC showcasing 100 wines at the Embassy of Italy, There were also two masterclasses led by journalist and author Lorenzo Ruggeri, the first focusing on Italian wines in general and the second specifically on Pecorino wines from Abruzzo. I attended this second session which compared ten Pecorino wines from ten different producers and from various sub-regions within Abruzzo.

What I discovered was that these wines were able to alleviate the high sugar content and corresponding higher alcohol into crisp, fresh, and acidic wines. In general, they provided a vibrant white flower aroma with degrees of herbaceousness with sage, basil, and thyme. The wines also alternated between a ruby red grapefruit profile and a red delicious apple profile with a major exception being the Pasetti Abruzzo Pecorino Superiore Collecivetta DOP 2020 which had a textured profile of an upside-down pineapple cake laced with melons. The Podere Colle San Massimo Abruzzo Pecorino Colle Dell'Orso DOC 2019 showed the savory side of Pecorino layered with multiple spices. Two that stood out were the Tenuta Terraviva Abruzzo Pecorino Terraviva DOC 2021 and the Tenuta I Fauri Abruzzo Pecorino DOC 2020. The first is from a small organic grower located very close to the Adriatic so this wine is a little riper with a floral aroma, savory red apples, some herbaceousness, and energetic acidity.  The second is from the first female winemaker in the Consorzio Vini d'Abruzzo and is from the Chieti sub-region. This wine also provides savory fruit and the accustomed herbaceousness but is saline driven based on the clay calcareous soils of their vineyards. Both of these are evidently priced near six euros, so you don't need to spend much to obtain quality Abruzzo Pecorino. Saluti.