Learning About #Biodynamic #Gruner #Wine from Austria During #Winechat

This past week I was invited to participate in a tasting of four biodynamic, Gruner Veltliner wines from Austria for the weekly #winechat discussion. Gruner and Austrian wine has been high on my radar, but biodynamic - not so much. I'm familiar with the concepts, but not the theories or practical applications. And the practical applications and preparations that a vineyard must undergo in order to be certified as Biodynamic by the Demeter classification system can be quite bizarre. Here's one take from the San Francisco Weekly.  Another set of practices involve celestial movements. For instance, wine is racked on a descending moon because it is thought that more aromas are lost during a fuller or higher standing moon. Other lunar practices are listed here.  But the main focus for biodynamic should be the beneficial vineyard practices, using manure instead of chemicals; using composts; using natural insectacides - all which must have a positive impact on the vineyard and the surrounding countryside. And apparently, organic and biodynamic farming is quite popular in Austria with organic farming accounting for 20% of total grape production - the highest in Europe.

But for me, the primary concern was the wine, and in my opinion, they were quite good. We started with the Meinklang Burg White ($15), a blend of  Welschriesling, Gruener Veltliner, and Muscat Ottonel. The grapes were harvested from the eastern side of Lake Neusiedl, technically the Neusiedlersee in Burgenland. All these wines were produced using natural yeasts, so the aromas come from the vineyard as well as the Mucat for this wine - floral-citrus, long and powerful. This is a refreshing wine, citrus flavors and even a bright mid that transitions naturally to the finish. 

The next wine was the Nikolaihof Wachau Hefeabzug ($28), 100% Gruner grown in the Wachau region - located west of Vienna and perhaps the best known region for Gruner Veltliner.  This wine possesses a creamy texture a result of neutral oak treatment as well as six months on their lees. It also displays earthy-hay characteristics which intertwine with a lemon citrus nose and peach flavors. An excellent wine.

The Wimmer-Czerny Fumberg came to us from Wagram/Donauland, also in Lower Austria, just north-west of Vienna. The wine is spicier than the previous with a citrus - almost pinesol-ish aroma -  some pear-ish minerality on the palette, before finishing with a short dose of acidity. Very different than the previous - but in a good way.

We completed the night with the Sepp Moser Grüner Veltliner Schnabel 2011($27).  The grapes were also harvested from vineyards in Lower Austria - this time surrounding Krems or the Kremstal region. The winery is named for Sepp Moserl, son of legendary Dr. Lenz Moser, and now managed by Sepp's son  Nikolaus. I nice lineage there; in fact the Mosel family has been producing wine since 1848 so years of knowledge are handed down to successive generations. The nose is all floral and big, with the flavor starting as citrus, then moving to a more spicy, creamy character to finish with roasted nuts on the finish. Could be the biggest Gruner I've tasted: full of flavor, mineral depth, and a long finish. Savory is the word. I great finish to the evening. Cheers

Where in the World is Slovenia?

I've always had a fascination for Slovenia, not sure why, maybe its history of being swallowed by various empires - Austria to the north, Italy to the west, and of course, the old Yugoslavia. This attraction lead us to visit Ljubljanica and Lake Bled, taste some local beer and wine, and enjoy the country. However, the wine never really registered until we sampled them again at the Washington D.C. International Wine & Food Festival and then a week ago at a special trade tasting held at the Slovenian Embassy. The truth is that they are crafting excellent wines in this hidden region.

Slovenian vineyards are primarily situated in two regions, the Podravje Region (Stajerska Slovenia) in the northeast and the Primorska Region (Brda-Collio and Vipava) in the southwest. The Podravje Region is the largest "appellation" and is more mountainous with plenty of southern exposure for the vineyards. The gravel and clay soils drain well and the hot summers and cool evenings provide an ideal climate for Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Traminer, Yellow Muscat, Pinot Noir, Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch. In fact this region is the source of German Lemberger. On the other hand, the Primorska Region borders Italy and consists of gently rolling hills and a micro-climate produced by the Adriatic Sea. Traditional Bordeaux and indigenous varieties are planted here - both made in the earthy European style.

The Slovenian white wines were extremely impressive. We first re-tasted the Pullus Sauvignon Blanc and Pullus Pinot Grigio, which attracted our attention (and others) at the D.C. festival. These wines are crafted by the oldest winery in Slovenia, Ptujska Klet and are flavorful with balanced acidity - very nice everyday wines. The winery also offers a Pullus G collection crafted for the restaurant market that are fuller from extended lees aging and partial malolatic fermentation. Besides the Sauvignon Blanc, the Pullus G Traminer was very good. Another excellent white wine from Stajerska was the Sanctum Chardonnay. This is the low alcohol Burgundy style - not the California fruit bombs. It is barrel fermented and aged on lees, but doesn't retain much oakiness since its aged in steel. Our type of Chardonnay. Yet, the most interesting white wine was the Mansas Klarnica, an indigenous grape grown on only 15 acres in the Vipava Valley. This rare treat is supposedly off-dry, but is much drier on the palette. Very interesting.

There were several good red wines, although they seemed to be over shadowed by the white selections. Pullus and Sanctum both had very drinkable Pinot Noirs - nice and gentle. The Bordeaux blend Klinec Quela bio-dynamic wine was easily the most noticeable - red fruit flavors, strong tannins, and a long tail.

We highly recommend researching and sampling Slovenian wines. They are both affordable and delicious. To find these wines in your area check out Fine Croatian Wines and Vinum USA.

Is Bio-dynamic Grape Growing a Hoax?

I recently read an interesting article by Dr. Mark Greenspan in the Wine Business Monthly titled, "Thoughts on Organic, Bio-dynamic, and Sustainable Grape Growing". This article is a reasonable critique of the Bio-dynamic movement particularly with the true believers who infer that conventional wine is bad, organic wine is better, and bio-dynamic wine is best. Dr. Greenspan also critiques many bio-dynamic practices because they can not be tested in a scientific manner. This article forced me to research the subject a little more which led me to a site which wasn't pulling punches, "Biodynamics is a Hoax". Published by Stu Smith, of Smith-Madrone Vineyard, this blog is dedicated to proving that Biodynamics founder, Rudolf Steiner, was a "nutcase" and fraud and that Biodynamics farming may do more harm in the long run. Very interesting propositions.