2022 Kopke Quinta de São Luiz Vintage Port

"Vintage Port is made from the best grapes in the Douro, typically from the Cima Corgo subregion. The grapes are left to achieve full ripeness before they are picked, vinified and then fortified with high-proof grape spirit. Vintage Port spends a short time aging in barrel – only two to three years – and is bottled, unfiltered, when it is still very dense and full of sediment. This is why Vintage Port's minimum bottle-aging period is considered to be 15 years, and it is often said that no other wine requires as much time in bottle to balance itself. The finest examples are capable of vitality well after 50 years." wine-searcher.com

Port requires appropriate glassware particularly for a vintage port from the oldest port wine house in Douro.  The port is the 2022 Kopke Quinta de São Luiz produced by C. N. Kopke which had its start in 1638.  Two years prior Nicolau Kopkë settled in Portugal as Consul General of the Hanseatic League - a medieval commercial and defensive network of merchant guilds and market towns in Central and Northern Europe that operated between the 13th and 17th centuries. He quickly pivoted to shipping wine from Portugal back home to Hamburg and the North of Europe. This process continued for 150 years when in 1781 the family purchased a vineyard and became a major producer and moved away from wine buying. In 1922, Quinta de São Luiz was acquired and became the place where all Kopke’s DOC Douro wines are produced. 

Quinta de São Luiz is located on the left bank of the Douro River in Tabuaço (140 km away from Porto) at the very heart of the Douro Region. in the Cima Corgo subregion. The vines are planted in schist and sometimes granite soils averaging 400 feet above sea level. Out of the 125 hectares in the estate 90 are planted with vines - most are Old Vines that interspersed fields of Touriga Nacional,  Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca, Tinto Cao, and Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo).

In 2022, the Douro Valley’s old vines withstood extreme heat in addition to a 70% reduction in rainfall, resulting in reduced yields by up to 50%. However, the quality of Ports produced from these ancient vines have excelled as the old vines are better equipped to handle the challenging conditions, with their high drought tolerance and adaptation to hot temperatures. In that year, the hand harvested grapes for the 2022 Kopke Quinta de São Luiz consisted of 33% Touriga Nacional and 67% intermixed Old Vines that were barrel aged for two and a half years.  Samples of the wine was submitted to the Institute of Douro and Porto Wine in January 2024 and the Vintage declaration was exclaimed in June. 

I received a sample and immediately wished I could put it aside for a dozen years, but upon uncorking loved the luscious layers of fruit starting with blackberries, then chocolate covered cherries, tropical fruit, and subtle tannins. I wonder where the sidewalk will end with this treasure. 

Having an open bottle I decided to be adventurous and pair with a cigar. With these pairings the only instructions I recall is to try and match the strength of each. Further research suggested that Vintage Ports with dark fruit and spice notes complement cigars with fruit and spice flavors. Thus, match the flavor profile as well. I chose a mystery cigar simply because it was one of a few that I had and it fortunately included some spices that seemed to elevate the chocolate cherries in the wine. Not a bad way to spend an evening. 

The 2022 Kopke Quinta de São Luiz Vintage Port will be available in the United States this month through Sogevinus Fine Wines.

The Wine Concierge: An A++ Curated Wine Experience

During a recent trade tasting of Portuguese wines, I ran into Leslie Frelow, Owner & Chief Discovery Officer (CDO) of  The Wine Concierge. Because of the pandemic, we hadn't seen each other at judging or tasting events that had been canceled. At this tasting, however, where the subject matter was quite pertinent, she related to me the quarterly focus of her The Shades of Vino wine club - Meditteranean wines. This wine club is available through The Wine Concierge community and Leslie kindly sent me a trio of wines from this allotment that highlights wines from Spain, Portugal, and Italy.

Browsing the curated wine selection for Summer/Fall 2021 you immediately notice the intriguing appellations such as Spain's Priorat and Catalonia, Rias Baixas, Basque, Alicante, and Castilla-La Mancha as well as Portugal's Douro and Lisboa DOCs. The collection is rounded out by wines from more familiar regions such as Napa Valley, Williamette Valley Oregon, Mendoza Argentina, Chianti, and Rioja Spain.  

As a wine consumer, it would be difficult on my own to discover a rare white Priorat such as the Les Brugueres Blanc Priorat D.O.Q. ($33) 100%  Garnatxa Blanca or the Vinha Mae Tinto Family Estate Red Lisboa, Portugal ($42) - a blend of Tinto Roriz, Touriga Nacional, Syrah. Yet, Leslie has done the research for you and curated a stellar lineup of wines - many at less than $20 a bottle. Plus take a look at the information provided in the tasting sheets. 

As mentioned earlier, the shipment Leslie sent me consisted of three wines starting with the 2018 Casa Agricola Blanco DO Alicante ($29).  This wine is a blend of 40% Moscatel, 40% Macabeo, and 20% Airén where the grapes were grown in Spain's Alicante DO and produced by Pepe Mendoza at their Casa Agrícola winery.  This is a unique wine, included because of Leslie's expertise, that displays abundant floral and spicy notes,  slight peaches and saline, and finally a fresh spicy finish. Excellent. 

The next wine was an eye-opener, a Cabernet Sauvignon from Tuscany's Tolaini Wine Estate called 2018 LEGIT Tolaini Toscana IGT Cabernet Sauvignon ($42). I never would have purchased a Cabernet from this wine region and instead would have focused on Sangiovese, but this wine is fantastic. Gorgeous fruit, dark cherries and plum, full mouthfeel, structured with chewy tannins. Even better with dark chocolate.  The label is inspired by the "iconic photo of Thelonious Monk from the album cover of one of Monk's most famous live concert recordings, 'Thelonious Monk in Italy' recorded live April 21st, 1961 in Milan by Riverside Records".

Finally, Leslie included the intriguing NV 10 Year White Tawny Porto Douro Valley ($28.75) from Quinta Da Devesa Fortunato Family Estate. From the winery, "this 10 Year Old White Port is obtained from a selection of grape varieties recommended for the Douro region. The aging process occurs naturally over the years, in oak vats at Quinta da Devesa cellars, thus resulting in a darkened color." White Port doesn't receive as much airtime as its red grape sibling but provides sometimes similar but oftentimes a cleaner profile.  This excellent wine starts with dried nuts and figs on the nose, then a textured mouthfeel with honeyed bacon, and an uplifting clean tail. Savor this one.

I look forward to perusing the other wines in The Shades of Vino collection as well as designing Christmas gifts for the family. Please visit The Wine Concierge, join the free community, participate in their Facebook Live events, and support The Black Winemakers Scholarship Fund through every wine purchase. Cheers.