Spain's Great Match - Masterclass: Around Spain in 8 Glasses

Last week I attended Spain's Great Match held at the Del Mar Restaurant located in The District Wharf. The day long event started with a Masterclass: Around Spain in 8 Glasses led by Master Sommelier Evan Goldstein & Advanced Sommelier Lindsey Fern.  Why is Spanish viticulture important? Because Spain has the largest vineyard area of all the major vine-growing countries in the world and accounts for 13% of the World's vineyards. As a corollary, Spain is the third largest producer of wine globally and accounts for the 8th largest exporter to the U.S. by volume and 4th by value. Moreover, Spain is also home to over 400 individual grape varieties grown in over 70 D.O.s (Denominación de Origen) and two DOCas (Denominación de Origen Calificada) in Rioja and Priorat. The seminar focused on eight appellations through the eyes of one winery within each region. 

D.O. Cava
The Denominación de Origen was established in 1986 with 95% coming from within Penedès. The D.O. encompasses close to 94k acres of vineyard and over 6,100 growers. In 2022 the designation was more finely tuned with the creation of the Cava de Guarda (minimum of 9-months tirage) and Cava de Guarda Superior (minimum of 18-months tirage) designations. The leading grape varieties are Macabeo, Parellada, Xarel-lo, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir.  Our sparkling wine sample was the Parés Balta Blanca Cusiné Organic Cava 2014 ($52) which showcases the age-ability of Cava  particularly after 80 months en tirage (secondary fermentation). The Xarel-lo heavy grapes were organically grown in central Penedès by the 3rd generation Cusiné family. 

D.O. Rías Baixas
This designation was created in 1988 and represents the cool and green northwest corner of Spain known as Galacia. It consists of five sub-regions with the Val do Salnés the historical focal point -- but each region is affected by the proximity to the Atlantic Ocean. Albariño is the dominant grape and there are rising trends for more barrel aging and sparkling programs. We have covered D.O. Rías Baixas very often in the past so please read these posts for more in depth coverage.  The wine presented was an old friend, the Pazo Senorañs Colección Albariño 2020 ($25). The winery is located in the Val do Salnés and this wine shows the depth that Albariño is capable of showing particularly balanced with the racy minerality. 

D.O. Rueda
Established in 1989, Rueda is the oldest D.O. in Castilla y Leon and is located on high plains rising around 2,500 feet. The vines receive 2600 hours of sunshine annually and a large thermal diurnal change helping to maintain acidity and lengthen the growing season. Verdejo is the primarily grape and there are significant plantings of Sauvignon Blanc where a small percentage is often blended with Verdejo. The grape was considered a safety net in case Verdejo didn't flourish. Marques de Riscal pioneered this blend but we sampled the magnificent Marques de Riscal Organic Verdejo 2022 ($12.99) consisting solely of Verdejo. Lively tropical fruit. 

D.O. Jerez
This region was the second designation in Spain (1933) and is the southernmost wine region in Western Europe. It is known for sherry production and the white Albarizo (chalk) soils. This soil is poor in organic composition and highly porous but well suited for the Palomino Fino, Pedro Ximénez, and Moscatel grapes. In general sherry is produced when the grape must, called "yema", is fermented and fortified to 15.5% then enters a solera system where it is aged for various years. During this aging period, the wine undergoes biological aging under a layer of yeast called "flor". The Gonzales Byass Tio Pepe Fino NV Sherry ($22) is produced using this method  and the unique pungent aromas from the flor blend nicely with the almond notes characteristic of the Palomino grape.  Our visit to the winery is available here.

DOCa Rioja
This was the first Spanish region to receive the D.O. status in 1925 and the first to receive the DOCa designation in 1991.  The DOCa (Qualified Denomination of Origin in English) is the highest category in Spanish wine law, reserved for regions with above-average prices along with stringent quality controls. Rioja is the home of Tempranillo, the birthplace of the Spanish language, and consists of three zones: Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa, and Rioja Oriental. This is a hot Mediterranean climate influenced by high altitudes ranging from 1150 to 2100 feet. Besides Tempranillo, Viura, Malvasia Garnacha Blanca & Tinta, and Graciano are major players. We sampled the Finca Allende Rioja Tempranillo 2017 ($35) - a DOCa wine grown in Rioja Alta and naturally fermented and aged 14 months in Bordelais 225 liter barrels. Savory.

D.O. Jumilla
This designation was created back in 1966 and encompasses 61,755 acres located on a very high plateau (1,000 to 3,000 feet)) in southeastern Spain. The climate is hot and dry leading to abundant organic viticulture where the vines receive over 3,000 hours of sunshine a year. The soils are chalky and allows the vines to be planted ungrafted. Monastrell (Mourvèdre) is the signature grape and accounts for 77% of plantings. The grape was represented by the Juan Gil Silver Organic Monastrell 2021 ($18) - a certified organic wine made from 40+ year old vines. This is a delicious wine that I will be seeking for further sipping. 

DOCa Priorat
This designation was created in 2006 out of older designations and is completely encircled within DO Montsant. This is a high altitude region in Spain's northeast corner of Catalunya with a combination of Mediterranean and Continental influences. Soils are quartz and slate and known as llicorella. These conditions have lead to the "intense, full-bodied red wines; the classic Priorat wine is made from old-vine Garnacha and Samso/Cariñena, and has concentrated aromas of licorice, tar and brandied cherries". The Gratavinum 2pr Organic Priorat 2021 ($50) is a four grape blend dominated by Garnacha and then Carignan and is named after the Gratalops village in with the winery is located. There are twelve wine based villages within Priorat.  There is surprising softness to the biodynamic farmed wine with a pleasant lingering finish.  

D.O. Ribera del Duero
Since its inception of a D.O. in 1982, this region has grown from 24 wineries to over 300 today but still one third of the vines are 45+ years old and 10% are 80+ years old. These vines consist of  Viura, Malvasia, Garnacha Blanca & Tinto, Tempranillo, and Graciano. All excel in the string Continental climate featuring 40 degrees of diurnal temperature shifts -- partly due to the high altitudes (2,360 to 3,600 feet).  The Pago de Anguix Costalara 2019 ($40)  is made from 100% Tempranillo grown at 2,626 feet in elevation. Initial intensity leads to  lush tannins. 

Celebrating Generations of Vineyard Workers with Matsu Tinta de Toro

Castilla y León is the largest region of Spain, as well the largest region of all the European Union, and hosts the wine regions of Ribera and Rueda in addition to the more recently designated Toro DO. Toro lies to the west of Rueda in the province of Zamora and and is bisected by the Duero River flowing towards Portugal. Despite gaining Denomination of Origin (DO) status as late as 1987, wine making traditions predate the Romans as Greek settlers taught the local Celtic tribes how to vinify grapes. During the Middle Ages, Toro gained considerable wealth from the wine trade which expanded during the phylloxera epidemic as the local vines were protected by the sandy soil. Thus even today there are 150 year old vines still producing fruit. Traditionally Tinta de Toro refers to red wine from Toro and equates to a clone of the Tempranillo grape that excels in the DO's continental climate. Like other Spanish DOs there are several classifications of Tinta de Toro:

Roble: a young red aged between three and six months (can contain some Garnacha)
Crianza: must age for at least two years with at least six months in oak barrel
Reserva: must age for at least three years with one year in oak barrel
Gran Reserva: must age for at least five years with two years in oak barrel

El Picaro

In the Toro DO there are currently 8,000 ha of land planted with vines with a portion sourced to Vintae, the La Rioja wine company launched by José Miguel Arambarri and sons José Miguel and Ricardo. The produce wine from 15 DOs and in 2006 ventured into Toro. Three years later they introduced the Matsu brand. In Japanese the brand name translates to "wait" and is a tribute to the workers who tend the vines over multiple generations. As proof, each wine label includes a photo of a viticulturist spanning these generations. I recently received samples of three of these 100% Tinta de Toro wines sourced from extremely old vines farmed using biodynamic techniques.

El Recio

Matsu El Picaro 2016 ($13.99) - consists of grapes harvested from a selection of 50 to 70 year old vines. The juice is fermented and rests three months on lees in concrete vats and undergoes malolatic fermentation in French oak barrels. This Roble wine is fresh yet full bodied with a velvety texture, dark juicy fruit, and lasting tannins. A great tasting wine. 

El Viejo

Matsu El Recio 2015 ($21.99) - consists of grapes harvested from a selection of 90 to 100 year old vines. After fermentation in concrete vats the wine was aged 14 months in French oak. This Crianza is intense that is both chalky and chewy; dusty and leathery. The dark fruit and chocolate lingers with the tannins. Ups their game here.

Matsu El Viejo 2015 ($46.99) - consists of grapes harvested from a vines over 100 years old. It follows a similar fermentation and aging regime as the El Racio but extended to 16 months. This Reserva is even more intense exploding in the palate with a combination of fruit, spice, and toasted wood. Chewy tannins integrate with the juicy acids to keep the party going. Oh yes, if only in my budget.

Ribera Y Rueda: Tempranillo Y Verdejo

Many wine consumers are probably familiar with the Designation of Origin (D.O.) Ribera del Duero wine region, situated in north-central Spain, roughly two hours north of Madrid. This classic region in Castilla y León sits on an elevated plateau along, not surprisingly, 70 miles of the Duero River before it meanders to Portugal and its outlet to the Atlantic at Porto. The summers in Ribero are long, hot, and dry with the river providing irrigation relief. Red wine is king which usually means 100% Tinto Fino aka Tempranillo -- although at times wines may include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Malbec. Aging requirements mandate that Crianzas spend one year aging in barrel with one year in bottle whereas Reservas spend an additional second year in bottle before release. And Gran Reservas require at least two years in barrel and three years aging in bottle.  These wines tend to be rich and powerful with acidity to match.

Less familiar is Ribera's companion wine region Rueda -- also located in Castilla y León but situated to the southwest and where wine production dates back to the 12th century. Spain's wine drinkers are more familiar since Rueda received D.O. designation before Ribera, 1980 versus 1982.  The older D.O. hosts a continental climate with abundant sunlight, low rainfall, and prevailing winds that dry the vineyards. This allows for practically organic viticulture. And in contrast to Ribera, white grapes dominate as in Spain’s most popular white grape Verdejo. Not only does Verdejo thrive in these conditions but the large diurnal temperature swings of 50 degrees on average maintain the balance between sugar and acidity. This is why the grape was replanted extensively in the 1970's after being decimated in the region in the late 19th century due to phylloxera.

This month the marketing arm of the twin regions, Ribera y Rueda, hosted a series of trade tastings with one held at the Barcelona Wine Bar in Washington D.C.. This event showcased Tempranillo and Verdejo from 28 wineries in order to present "wines that reflect an ancient tradition and a singular sense of place, yet have a timeless appeal that knows no borders". With such a large tasting it is difficult to fully experience all presenters so here are a handful that caught my attention.

Starting with Rueda, the Bodega Javier Sanz Viticultor presented two Verdejo wines that were fantastic. The winery owns 104 hectares of vines, many pre-phylloxera vineyards, with the intent to cultivate local grape varieties and the recovery of varieties that almost became extinct. One of these is Malcorta, a Verdejo clone nursed from virtual extinction and the basis for the Javier Sanz Viticultor V Malcorta 2016 ($28). This is an elegant wine, aged six months on lees and possessing a creamy dry character with minerals and nuts finishing with abundant acidity. The also showed the Javier Sanz Viticultor Verdejo 2017 ($20) that spent four months on lees providing a little texture to accompany the refreshing finish. A similar wine was poured by Bodegas Menade with their Menade Verdejo 2016 ($15) that provides racy minerals with a large mouth feel. Other notables are the Marqués de Cáceres Verdejo 2016 ($13), the Familia Torres Verdejo 2016 ($12), and the Hermano del Villar Oro De Castilla Verdejo 2017 ($17).

Bodega Reina de Castilla is a cooperative of family vineyards producing several styles of Verdejo as well as Sauvignon Blanc. Their entry level Bodega Reina de Castilla Isabelino Rueda 2017 ($11) includes some Viura, is made from 35 year old vines, and rather tasty. But try to locate their Bodega Reina de Castilla Barrel Fermented Verdejo 2016 ($23) that is made from 50 year old vines only in exceptional years. This wine show depth and elegance with a silky, refreshing tail.


Bodegas Mocén is located in the old center of the village of Rueda and like Reina de Castilla produces an excellent Sauvignon Blanc as well as the barrel fermented Bodegas Mocén Fermentado en Barrica 2016 ($25). This wine has more oak presence with vanilla and spice but also retains the traditional green apple and fresh acids. They also poured an organic equivalent Bodegas Mocén Ecologico 2016 ($15) that possesses plenty of texture and minerals with a little less acids.

For Ribera, let's start with Viñedos y Bodegas Gormaz, one of the nine founding members of the Ribera del Duero D.O. that itself was founded in 1972. It sources fruit from small vineyards throughout the eastern part of Ribera that are the foundation of three excellent 12 Lineages wines poured that day: Viñedos y Bodegas Gormaz 12 Linajes Roble 2014 ($18), Viñedos y Bodegas Gormaz 12 Linajes Crianza 2011 ($24), and Viñedos y Bodegas Gormaz 12 Linajes Reserva 2009 ($35). These wines had various shades of spice and tannins - but are three powerful and delicious wines.

For 25 years April Cullom has been an evangelist for Spanish wine and recently launched the Alma de Vino brand to celebrate Ribera. The Alma de Vino Old Vine Tempranillo 2011 ($35) is made from old vine organic grapes grown at some of the highest elevations in Ribera. This leads to a higher diurnal swing allowing he grapes to ripen slower resulting in softer tannins.  An excellent wine.

Finca Villacreces is named after the Franciscan monk Pedro de Villacreces who founded the estate in the 14th century. This property consists of 64 hectares of vines located in the heart of the Ribera del Duero's "Golden Mile". Their Finca Villacreces 2014 ($39) is a blend of 86% Tempranillo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot aged 14 months in new oak. Quite simply, it is fantastic: structured, good fruit, slight spice and rounded tannins.

Dominio Basconcillos offers soft Tempranillo wines through their organic and biodynamic practices on their 18 year old winery.  The grapes are grown at over 3,000 feet in elevation providing similar slow ripening and these soft tannins. So check out the Dominio Basconcillos Vina Magna Seie Meses 2016 ($26) and Dominio Basconcillos Vina Magna 2015 ($40).

The final wines are from Bodegas Peñalba Herráiz and Bodegas Arrocal. The former owns vineyards located in Aranda de Duero, Castrillo de la Vega and Hoyales de Roa and their Bodegas Peñalba Herráiz Aptus 2015 ($17) is a soft and structured blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, and Monestrell.  The latter is a family owned winery farming their ancestry vineyards with the Bodegas Arrocal Seleccion 2014 ($40) based on 70 year old vines.  This is an impressive wine with a solid backbone, dark fruit, and slight spice.

There were plenty of other delicious wines from Ribera Y Rueda. Start your research into the two areas now. Cheers.