Two Weekends in Loudoun: The Heart of DC's Wine Country

After last month's A Vineyard Tour of 868 Estate Vineyards with a Taste of Uncork Loudoun, I leveraged being in the area to visit two more craft beverage establishments. And as fate would come forth, the following weekend we attempted to attend the Lovettsville Oktoberfest, but chose to detour after seeing the concession lines. 

Two Twisted Posts Winery & Tavern
I was able to sample a couple wines from Two Twisted Posts at the Taste of Uncork Loudoun event. There 2022 Viognier is a fuller expression of the grape as it is whole-cluster pressed, fermented and aged sur lie for twenty months, and aged in a combination of oak treatments.  But it still retains a stone fruit and citrus core. Their 2020 Cabernet Franc is another wine where the oak treatment doesn't overwhelm the dark black and cherry juice. But after that tasting, I was ready for a palate cleanser and the beauty of this winery is that it is very close to 868 Estate and they also brew craft beer. On arrival, I immediately grabbed a pint of their Two Twisted Lager - an American lager brewed with Carolina rice and Pilsner malt.  Set aside your mass produced lager and choose this delicious alternative instead.

Mt. Defiance Cider & Distillery
I used to frequent Mt. Defiance's downtown Middleburg location often, but this was the first time visiting the Cider Barn where they have combined the cider, wine, and distilling operations. It's a spacious area, with cider and wine served in the main hall and spirits in the loft.  Plus plenty of room outdoors for both groups. Their Virginia Farmhouse Cider is a classic as the traditional dry cider shows apple and citrus fruit, tannic texture, and a little funk. Later in the afternoon we shared a flight of whiskies and favored the Mt. Defiance Smoked Virginia Whiskey.  The whiskey starts with a high corn mash bill which includes wheat and malted barley that is aged two years after distillation in used oak. The smoky flavor comes from cherry wood, alder wood, and lemon balm introduces before bottling. Nicely done. 

Hiddencroft Vineyards
The vineyard occupies part of the historic Compher family farm, a property established in 1868 in what was once known as the "German Settlement" of Loudoun County. This community later became Lovettsville - hence the popular Oktoberfest celebration. The Compher family owned and worked the land for roughly a century from 1868 until 1968 and eventually purchased by Clyde Housel and Terry Housel. They planted the first vines in 2001 followed by an official commercial opening in May 2008. Our first visit occurred shortly after this opening. A few years later  the winery expanded operations onto the adjacent historic property and moved its tasting room into a restored circa-1850 farmhouse and barn. Throughout the years, Hiddencroft has been known for long aging of reds - particularly their Chambourcin which changes complexity and looses any semblance of the jammy, highly acidic, low tannic nature of its youth. Instead Hiddencroft's aged Chambourcin shows more tannic structure, more rounded fruit, and still enough acidity to lift the finish. 

Stockyard Brewery
Both Stockyard and Cool Spring are located very close to Hiddencroft providing an easy exploration of this trio. Stockyard Brewery is a relatively new operation opening only a year ago and the family-friendly farm brewery sits on approximately 50 acres of farmland - maintaining its historic agricultural activity. The taproom barn was crafted from repurposed historic materials and includes a cornerstone carved 1893. Inside the famished will find plenty of food options plus a plethora of beer and guest wines and cider. I chose their Milo's Marzen in order to salvage Oktoberfest which paired nicely with the Brisket Cup.

Cool Spring Distillery
Since the exit for Cool Spring is literally right across from Stockyard, we couldn't pass on a visit despite the always welcome rain.  The distillery is located on the east side of Short Hill Mountains, not far from Two Twisted Posts on the western side of the mountain. They offer a wide assortment of expressions from moonshine to rum to whiskey. Their  Cool Spring Short Hill Sugar Shine is made from - obviously sugar - and is very approachable. And their Cool Spring Apple Pie unloads with those traditional Autumn flavors that we look forward to sharing with our moonshine friends. They have a unique method for creating rum, using dark molasses, honey, and Demerara brown sugar. Even at 80 proof it comes across a little hot; thus several of our party preferred the Cool Spring Spiced Rum version. I'll have to return to evaluate their Bourbon, but we did come home with a bottle of their Spiked Lemonade. This expression is made using the Short Hill Shine as a base and infusing with the lemon flesh repurposed from the lemon skins used to craft their Cool Spring Lovettcello. Cheers.

Spirits for the World Cup Knockout Round: July 9, 2026

Over the years I’ve built a small global library of distilled spirits and fortified wines, and the World Cup Knockout Round feels like the perfect excuse to dig back into it - researching the producers, revisiting the bottles, and tasting my way through the bracket. Starting with the June 29th matches, I’ll be recommending one or two spirits for each game, whether they’re already on my shelf or simply deserve a place in the lineup. Click here to view the other World Cup Knockout Round matches.  Today's match for July 9th:

---

France vs Morocco

Absente Absinthe (France)
When discussing French spirits, absinthe can’t be left out. Absente Absinthe is produced in Provence using a recipe inspired by historic French absinthes but adapted to modern regulations. The base spirit is infused with wormwood, anise, and Mediterranean botanicals, reflecting the region’s long tradition of herbal liqueurs. Absente was among the first absinthe‑style spirits to return to the U.S. after the ban was lifted, offering a legal expression built on traditional ingredients without exceeding thujone limits.

Production centers on maceration and distillation of wormwood, anise, and fennel, followed by blending for consistency. Wormwood provides the bitter backbone, while anise and fennel supply the familiar licorice note. Mint, lemon balm, and star anise round out the profile. Absente is bottled at high proof to maintain structure when diluted with water or used in cocktails.

Absente is made by Distilleries et Domaines de Provence, a producer founded in 1898 in Forcalquier, a region known for herbal spirits such as pastis, génépi, and traditional plant‑based liqueurs. The distillery specializes in botanical maceration and distillation, drawing on local ingredients and long‑established methods. Their portfolio focuses on Provençal herbal traditions, and Absente represents their modern, regulated interpretation of classic French absinthe.

Absente Absinthe shows herbal intensity, anise, light mint, and gentle wormwood bitterness. When louched with cold water, the spirit turns cloudy and releases softer floral and citrus notes. Absente works well in traditional preparations or in classic cocktails like the Sazerac and Corpse Reviver No. 2, where its herbal character adds depth without overwhelming other ingredients.

For a cocktail to sip during the match, we chose Any Last Words?, a suggestion listed by Distilleries et Domaines de Provence. The drink pairs Absente with gin and maraschino liqueur; for the latter, I used a homemade sour‑cherry moonshine‑style liqueur, with cherries that have been steeping for two years.

For the gin, and to continue our celebration of 250 Independence Days, it’s appropriate to use the Virginia 250th Anniversary Gin from the Virginia: Birthplace of American Spirits Collection, which aligns neatly with that theme and complements Absente’s herbal profile. This botanic gin was crafted by Peter Ahlf and Kimberly Nuckols of Mt. Defiance Cidery & Distillery with blending support from Barry Haneberg of Virago Spirits and Peter Morgner of Vitae Spirits. It draws on a London Dry structure featuring Italian juniper, angelica, coriander, orris root, and lemon peel layered with Virginia botanicals such as pawpaw, rose, sassafras, and sumac to evoke the aromatic character of the state’s mountain landscapes. 

Finally, let's raise a toast to Admiral François Joseph Paul de Grasse, the French navy commander who defeated the British fleet under Rear-Admiral Sir Thomas Graves in the Battle of the Chesapeake on September 5, 1781.  This victory blocked British reinforcements and escape routes by sea, allowing the joint Franco-American land forces led by General George Washington and the Comte de Rochambeau to trap Lieutenant General Charles Cornwallis at Yorktown, leading to his surrender on October 19, 1781. 

---

Any Last Words?

Ingredients

• 1 oz gin
• 1 oz maraschino liqueur
• 1 oz lemon juice
• 1 oz Absente absinthe
• maraschino cherries

Instructions

• Shake all ingredients together in a shaker filled with ice.
• Strain into a glass and garnish with a maraschino cherry on a skewer.

BevFluence Cocktail Book Program 2021 - Negroni: More than 30 Classic and Modern Recipes for Italy's Iconic Cocktail

This spring, BevFluence has partnered with Ryland Peters & Small and CICO Books to review several Cocktail books starting with Negroni, More than 30 classic and modern recipes for Italy's iconic cocktail ($12) by David T. Smith and  Keli Rivers. My bar setup was void of each of the three central ingredients (Campari, gin, and vermouth) so I decided to go local as much as possible - obviously excluding the Campari. This Italian liqueur was created by Gaspare Campari in 1860 as a bitter aperitif made from various herbs, fruits, and spices. 

For the gin, I went with the excellent Joseph A. Magnus & Co Vigilant District Dry Gin ($35) that I first sampled at their Washington, D.C. distillery. This is a London-style dry gin that should be a decent alternative to the English gins. For vermouth, I learned that Mt. Defiance Distillery in Loudoun County Virginia produces a Sweet Vermouth ($19, 350ml).  This fortified wine starts at the Mt. Defiance Apple Brandy that is flavored with herbs and spices and blended with barrel-aged brandy, Vidal Blanc wine, local honey, and caramel syrup. 

The perfect place to start is with The Classic, just equal parts of all three ingredients. In this scenario, the bitter orange of the Campari takes center stage with the vermouth providing a slight balance with sweet flavors.  The gin was a little lost with this palate. 

I favored another recipe called Run Free & Naked which puts The Classic ingredients into an ice-filled and salt-rimmed pint glass. Then fill the remaining glass with sparkling hard cider. I choose the Corcoran Vineyards and Cidery PoPo Peach. This was an eye-opener and will be a summer favorite. 

The next recipe came from the Experimental Negroni section and is the Oaxacan which replaces the gin with mezcal in the Classic recipe. I had the Mezcal El Silencio Espadín available and this substitution seemed to elevate the Campari even more while also providing a smokey trail. Good for a change of pace.

Check back as we will up updating this post with more cocktail experiences as we leaf through the book. Cheers. 

Another non-traditional Negroni we enjoyed was the Kingston Negroni which is the Classic above with the gin replaced with rum. We used the Pilar Key West Rum and this combination provides a little smoothness and toastiness.

The Stout & Steadfast piqued our interest - as well as a seminar discussion - so we created this cocktail using equal parts from the Classic recipe - using Aviation American Gin.  The recipe calls for filling the remaining half-pint class with Guiness, but I used the Center of the Universe Donny Coffee Brown Ale. The Campari bitters start off the race, but the coffee and dry malt catch up and lead to a smooth relaxing finish. Actually liked the cocktail more than the beer on its own. 

We were waiting for warmer weather to make the Negroni Float, but couldn't wait. The recipe calls for smaller amounts of the Classic added with ice to a large glass. Then add a scoop of vanilla ice cream and slowly fill with cola or as in our case, Kutztown Sarsaparilla. Top with whipped cream and let the cola and ice cream integrate into the cocktail, then sip with a straw. The Negroni takes a back seat and I love our choice of Sarsaparilla which blends in nicely with the Campari. A worthy dessert. 

Tasting an Expanded Spirits Portfolio at Mt. Defiance Distillery

The Middleburg AVA is a popular destination in Virginia wine country and a couple years ago Mt. Defiance Cidery augmented the area wine offerings with craft cider. Soon afterwards the distillery section of the operation came online providing visitors an opportunity to sample classic spirits. And in past year Mt. Defiance Distillery has expanded their portfolio to now include three Rum offerings, Apple Brandy & Liqueur, Cassis, and Absinthe.

Because of the screwy Virginia ABC regulations, cider is sampled in Mt. Defiance's tasting room and the spirits nearer to the distillery. Visitors are allowed four one ounce pours of spirits per day. The distillery, like others in the Commonwealth, provide a range of cocktails so visitors aren't forced to sample neat. However, neat was my preference and so between two of us we chose the Amber Rum, Dark Rum, Apple Liqueur, Cassis, and Absinthe.

According to Distiller Peter Ahlf, previously the Amber and Dark rums were both aged for 6 - 8 months in small (15 gal) used rye barrels.  The difference is that Ahlf adds caramelized sugar to the Dark Rum just before bottling. Check your bottle label because Batch 12 was aged for 14 months in a 55 gallon used bourbon barrel and Batch 13 was a blend of 12 and previous methods. I don't know which version I sampled but the Dark Rum does have a pronounced honey-caramel profile when compared to the Amber - which is very smooth with a lighter honey accent. Both are very nice, but I preferred the lighter Amber style.

The Apple Liqueur is produced using a mash of sweet cider with crushed apples which is mixed with their Apple Brandy and additional sugar for sweetening. (The Brandy is produced by aging distilled hard cider and hen cutting to 80 proof). Thus, the liqueur is lower in alcohol at 50 proof / 25% alcohol and a bit on the sweeter side.

Cassis is a liqueur made from blackcurrants and Mt. Defiance's version is excellent. Ahlf says that his goal was to emphasize the liqueur's bright fruit flavor over sweetness and he succeeded. There's no syrupy or gritty sugar texture and the blackcurrant flavors are prevalent. Ahlf also mentioned that beet sugar worked much better than cane sugar as a sweetener. Interesting. 

The final spirit we sampled was the much anticipated Absinthe as Mt. Defiance utilizes the traditional brouilleur (water dripper) and sugar cube to prepare the spirit. They also use traditional ingredients such as Virginia grown Grand Wormwood, Lemon Balm and Hyssop; Aniseed from Andalucía, Spain; and Fennel Doux from Provence, France.  In general I'm not a great fan of Anise based spirits, but this Absinthe was rock solid - not overly liquorish - but relatively smooth. I was pleasantly surprised on this one.

To help navigate to Mt. Defiance or any of the Middleburg area wineries check out theCompass Winery, Brewery, Distillery Locator Mobile App. Cheers.

Cider and Spirits Arrive in the Middleburg AVA with Mt. Defiance Cidery and Distillery

Middleburg Virginia was already a solid wine destination with several surrounding the old town; but now there is even more of an incentive with the addition of Mt. Defiance Cidery - right at the end of Washington Street. The cidery is the second cider operation started by Marc Chretien, who opened Vermont's Stowe Cider last year. Growing up in Northern Virginia, Chretien wanted to return to the DC area to join the growing Virginia cider movement. Currently the cidery operates in an old gas station in Middlburg, but Chretien plans to move production to a larger facility in the country to accommodate a canning line. Don't worry however, the location will then be home to Mt. Defiance Distillery. The nano-distillery is currently producing small batches of rum, absinthe, and applejack that should be available in ABC stores and the distillery this fall.

Currently at the cider, there are four ciders on tap. And I mean on tap - bring your growlers to stock up; although there are some bottles for sale. The flagship Farmhouse Cider is a traditional dry cider, very tart and refreshing. They also produce a Ginger Cider with this batch evidently higher in ginger - interesting - but not my thing. The Cider Blanc was fermented with wine yeast and is tasty with a more bready flavor than apple. Finally, their General's Reserve Barrel Aged is apple cider aged in used Wild Turkey bourbon barrels. This is delicious, only subtle hints of the whiskey that doesn't overwhelm the apples. This one is only available in growlers so be prepared when visiting. Cheers.