For the Love of Bourgogne Aligoté

Having long played a second fiddle to Chardonnay, Bourgogne’s other white grape, Aligoté, is finally getting its due! As winemakers and growers help realize its potential by giving it more attention and care in the vineyard and cellar, the spectrum of styles available of this incredibly terroir-expressive wine grows wider: Bourgogne Aligoté brims with mouthwatering acidity and salinity as well as a nose driven by green apple, peach, lemon, and white flowers, yielding expressions that can range from light and refreshing to rich and age-worthy.

Although the Aligoté grape represents less than 6 percent of Bourgogne's total vineyard planting, it has a long history in the region. It has been grown in Bourgogne since the 17th century and furthermore, the Bourgogne Aligoté appellation was created 84 years ago this July (1937).  The appellation is a regional AOC, which means that the wines can be produced throughout the Bourgogne region. However, it most prolific within the Côte Chalonnaise -- in the heart of Bourgogne -- and in particular in Bouzeron, in the northern Côte Chalonnaise. 

DNA profiling shows that Aligoté is a member of the wider Pinot family, the same as with Chardonnay. It is an early-ripening variety, is more frost-resistant than its more renowned cousins, and thus planted in cooler sites. Bourgogne Aligoté wines are generally made in stainless steel and are crisp and fresh in style, with relatively high acidity, even after undergoing complete malolactic fermentation. 

During a recent For the Love of Bourgogne Aligoté Twitter tasting hosted by Christy Canterbury, we received and reviewed four Bourgogne Aligoté wines that revealed the floral, citrus, mineral, and refreshing characters of these wines. These wines also offer great value and carry an unexpected weightiness and depth. 

Bourgogne Aligoté Buissonnier Vignerons de Buxy ($19)
Their parcels of Bourgogne Aligoté are located mainly between Buxy and Saint-Gengoux-le-National (Bouzeron) with the grapes planted in calcareous soil covered with scree and rock. The wine is made entirely in stainless steel vats allowing the grape's characters to shine. This wine has a traditional Bourgogne Aligoté profile: white stone fruit, some citrus, real butter, minerality and excellent acids. 

Bourgogne Aligoté Olivier Leflaive 2018 ($27)
The grapes for this wine were also grown in calcareous clay within Puligny and Corpeau in the Côte-d'Or, and not in the Côte Chalonnaise, and using biodynamic methods. The wine was aged primarily in stainless steel with 15% in oak. This helps develop a delicious buttery texture aligning with minerality, soft tropical fruit, and refreshing acids.

Bourgogne Aligoté Marcel Giraudon 2019 ($22)
This wine is another example of the broader Bourgogne Aligoté AOC as the estate is located in Chitry-Le-Fort - near the town of Chablis and part of the Auxerre district. The Giraudon family has been farming and making wine in Chitry for centuries, and the current proprietor, Marcel Giraudon, follows very traditional methods in his work. Their vineyards are on hillsides of Kimmeridgian chalky marl as one finds in Grand Cru Chablis.  This wine was fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel and starts with a light grassy hay and citrus aroma. This then leads to a full mouthfeel, lemons and peaches, creamy texture, and refreshing acidity. 

Bourgogne Aligoté Domaine Chevrot 2019 ($22)
This estate is located in the village of Cheilly-lès-Maranges in the Côte du Nuit, just north of Côte Chalonnaise. Some of the vines were planted 75 years ago, with an average age of 30 years, in limestone soils. The Domaine itself was established in 1830 with the current family generation opting for organic farming in 2008. This is another all stainless steel wine - although with approximately 13 months aging in the vats. It is a fantastic wine with a tropical nose and a creamy, saline, wet rock interior. 

Discovering #BourgogneUnknown with Bourgogne Wines

"I normally shy away from white wines, but that one (Jean Chartron Rully Montmorin 2015) was delicious", Anonymous Neighbor 1

"This wine (Domaine Dominique Gruhier Bourgogne Epineuil 2015) is so good....we loved it", text from Anonymous Neighbor 2

I generally disperse wines I receive as samples amongst my neighbors once the official tasting session has concluded and a recent #BourgogneUnknown registered immediate and overwhelmingly positive feedback from the beneficiaries. That is Bourgogne and not Burgundy as Bourgogne Wines seeks to "re-affirm its identity as one of the most iconic ‘brands’ of France, the region and its producers are reverting back to the original French iteration of its name – Bourgogne".

This iconic region spans 230 km of territory from North to South and encompasses 84 distinct appellations. Of these, there are seven regional appellations, 44 village appellations, and 33 Grand Cru Climats. Some of these appellations, such as Chablis and Côte de Nuits are well-known so this tasting targeted smaller village regions such as Marsannay, Bourgogne Epineuil, Chorey-les-Beaune, Pouilly-Vinzelles, and Rully. And as all of Bourgogne, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are the main players, yet variations in character occur across the different appellations. The wines discussed below were not only delicious but affordable ranging in price from $25-$30.

Around 250 million years ago, an emerald lagoon covered what is now the Bourgogne winegrowing region. As a result, the subsoil contains marine marl and limestone deposits. The roots of the vines go deep into this unique geological legacy, drawing from it the finesse, depth and minerality that are so characteristic of Bourgogne appellations.

 • Pinot Noir flourishes on marl soils that are more yielding and porous, that tend towards limestone and which offer good drainage. It will produce light and sophisticated or powerful and full-bodied wines, depending on the proportion of limestone, stone content and clay on the plot where it grows.

 • Chardonnay prefers more clayey marly limestone soils from which it can develop sophisticated, elegant aromas in the future wine. The clay helps produce breadth in the mouth, characteristic of the Bourgogne region’s great white wines.

Source:  Bourgogne Wines

Domaine Dominique Gruhier Bourgogne Epineuil 2015
The village of Epineuil is located in the larger Auxerrois regions, northeast of Chablis and sharing the same Kimmeridgian soils. Bourgogne Epineuil is a regional AOC that was created in 1993 and only recognizes 100% Pinot Noir. On the other hand, its neighbor Bourgogne Tonnerre features only 100% Chardonnay. This wine is very pleasant 100% organic Pinot Noir wine with juicy and chewy fruit, dusty and mild middle, and finishing with fresh acids.

Catherine et Claude Maréchal Chorey-les-Beaune 2014
The village of Chorey-les-Beaune is located just to the north of the town of Beaune and produces both red and white wines. This red wine is 100% Pinot Noir - not flashy - but steady integrated fruit and soft lingering tannins.

Maison Louis Latour Pouilly-Vinzelles "En Paradis" 2015
Pouilly-Vinzelles is a small appellation in the Mâconnais region where their white wines are full expressions of Chardonnay. Its famous neighbor, Pouilly-Fuissé, is actially around 20 times smaller in acreage! The name Vinzelles takes its name from the latin vincella which means small vine and these vines are planted in predominantly limestone soils. This wine is fantastic; completely integrated with creamy white stone fruit and citrus, minerals, and refreshing acidity.

Jean Chartron Rully Montmorin 2015
The Rully appellation is optimally situated in the northern part of the Côte Chalonnaise where light and sandy soils create fresh Chardonnay. this wine is 100% barrel fermented and maturing on its lees for 8 months in barrel and 4 months in tank. This helps produce a fuller slightly buttery body but with juicy white fruit and finishing with plenty of lift. Easy to see why my neighbor enjoyed the switch from red wines.

Domaine Bart Marsannay Chardonnay Musque Les Favieres 2015
Domaine Bart is run by Martin Bart, who has prime land in Marsannay, the northern most wine village in the Côte de Nuits in Bourgogne. This AOC was created in 1987 and is the most recent addition to the Côte de Nuits. This is a beautiful wine, my favorite of the group as it possesses more creamy stone fruit, a full mouthfeel, a touch of saline, and a long acid boost.

Find Mineral and Acid Driven Chardonnay with #PureChablis

Many, many years ago, I remember relatives at family reunions quaffing wine from plastic cups. One source was a large bottle labeled Chablis, a generic American description for a light, perhaps off-dry white wine. In no way did it refer to the Burgundian wine region. And in no way did it resemble the mineral and acid driven Chardonnay the French Chablis region is known. Unfortunately it is still possible today to find mis-labelled American Chablis as the 2005 agreement with the EU, that was intended to end this practice, included a grandfather clause for producers who had been using the name. Why???


The Chablis to enjoy is in reality 100% Chardonnay from cold-climate northern Burgundy. The coldness traps acidity whereas the 150 million year old soil of Kimmeridgian Limestone - loaded with fossilized oyster shells - imparts noticeable amounts of minerals.  Obviously this isn't your new world chardonnay. The Chablis region also maintains a Appellation D'Origine Controllee system with four classifications: Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru, and Chablis Grand Cru. The first two are broader in nature; while the second two consist of specific climats - or micro-terroirs.

During a #PureChablis tasting last week, Chef Ryan Hardy and Wine Director Arvid Rosengren of NYC's Carlie Bird restaurant lead a discuss of five Chablis wine and the appropriate food pairing for each. I will update this post with links to these pairings when they become available. In the meantime, here are the wines we tasted:

Petit Chablis, La Chablisienne, 2015 ($15) The Petit Chablis "village" appellation can be produced across all the communes in the Chablis region. Petit wines usually come from a slightly different type of soils, called Portlandian limestone.This wine starts with light apples and limes, then saline, and refreshing acids - a great value.

Chablis “Vauprin”, Roland Laventureux, 2014 ($26) - The appellation village of Chablis is produced in a specific list of communes. This "village" level wine is from a single vineyard and possesses tropical fruit and citrus, mint, chalky minerals, and fresh acids.  Very delicious. Food pairing: Razor Clams, Fennel, and Pickled Chiles

Chablis Premier Cru, Vaillons, Domaine Daniel Dampt, 2015 ($32) This wine is from the left bank of Chablis and in general, the Premier Crus add a layer of complexity and intensity. This wine has both plus stone fruit and melons, saline, and noticeable acids. Food pairing: Montauk Fluke, Espelette, Lime & Olio Nuovo

Chablis Premier Cru, Fourchaume, William Fèvre, 2014 ($45) This wine is from the right bank, right next to Grand Cru plots. Fourchaume is well known among Chablis lovers and for good reason. The wine is excellent: green apples and lemons, hefty dose of minerals, bombastic acids.

Chablis Grand Cru, Valmur, Jean-Claude Bessin, 2014 ($54) Chablis Grand Cru accounts for only 2% of Chablis production. As Rosengren noted, this wine is "both rounder and more muscular at the same time". It is fantastic: pineapple aroma, saline and minerals, rounder, chalky, and strong acids.

Wine Chateau Uncorks Life with the 2011 Château des Jacques Moulin-à Vent

Our friends at the Wine Chateau sent us another care package this Fall and I immediately saw fit to open the 2011 Château des Jacques Moulin-à Vent ($23). The wine is part of the Louis Jardot portfolio and is made from Gamay grown in the prestigious Moulin-à-Vent appellation in Beaujolais. Nothing wrong with the seasonal Beaujolais Nouveau, but this is a more Burgundian wine - having spent ten months in oak (30% in new oak) - and is age-able for those with patience. Not here. This is a juicy wine, full of black cherry, plenty of texture, with a slight mocha chocolate finish.  Well done, indeed. Check back soon when we open the Ruffino Classico Riserva and Castello Banfi Belnero. Cheers.

Learning about Chablis - the Wine and Region - with Pure Chablis

Last week Pure Chablis came to D.C. to showcase the region's wines and I was fortunate to be invited to a lunch at Proof.  The lunch was hosted by Jean-François Bordet, the current President of the Chablis Wine Board (in addition to winemaker at Domaine Séguinot-Bordet) and Françoise Roure of Burgundy Wines. It's easy to forget that Chablis is situated in Burgundy even though it lies closer to Champagne than Côte de Nuits. That means its a cold grape growing climate; we saw fascinating pictures of frost fighting techniques and snow covered vines. But the cold brings acidity which is a coveted characteristic of Chablis wine. Minerality is another characteristic. The soil is 150 million years old and the Kimmeridgian Limestone is loaded with fossilized oyster shells (see accompanying photo).

Kimmeridgian Limestone Rock

Like many Medieval town, Chablis is built upon a waterway, the Serein River, which provides two more characteristics to Chablis wine. First, vines are planted on the hills overlooking both banks, with the right side receiving the evening sun and the left bank the morning sun. This means the right bank receives more exposure - providing a little more flavor to the Chardonnay grapes. Second, Chablis wine is usually fermented and aged in steel; but when oak is used, it's neutral oak. This is partly because of the region's proximity to Paris - only two hours away by train.  Wine was transported by river to the capital city by barrel and then returned to be reused once more. Regions residing further away from Paris did not receive returns  and became to rely on new oak each year.

The Chablis region maintains a Appellation D'Origine Controllee system with four classifications: Petit Chablis, Chablis, Premier Cru, and Grand Cru. The first two are broader in nature; while the second two consist of specific climats - or micro-terroirs. During our lunch at Proof, the wines were from the last three appellations and were selected for their relative availability in the U.S. market. (The U.S. market ranks 5th in Chablis consumption following the U.K., France, Belgium, and Germany.)

We started with the La Chablisienne Chablis La Pierrelée 2011 ($23). La Chablisienne is an old cooperative, started in 1923, and accounts for one quarter of the region's wine production (10 million bottles). This wine is a cuvée sourced from grapes grown throughout the region fermented in stainless steel and aged on lees in tank. The result is a light wine - not powerful - but displaying finesse with a lychee aroma, a green apple flavor and fresh acidity finish.

The next was Mr. Bordet's wine, the Domaine Séguinot-Bordet Chablis Premier Cru Fourchume 2010 ($35). The domaine is located on the right bank, far north corner of Chablis around the hamlet of Maligny. Jean-François is the 13th generation winemaker and this is the oldest continually operating winery in Chablis - that's 1590 for those counting. Now that's some history. Interestingly, he practiced winemaking in Michigan - learning about Riesling and Gewurtztraminer. When he returned home in 1998,  he became the youngest winemaker in Chablis accompanied by his grandfather who was the oldest. The Premier Cru Fourchume is at once elegant and intense with a fresh lychee aroma, an iodine earthy mid, and a long refreshing finish. This is one quality wine - very nice.

The Premier Crus kept coming with the Simonnet Febvre Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons 2010 ($30) and the Louis Moreau Chablis Premier Cru Les Fourneaux 2009 ($27).  The second seemed a bigger wine, more structure with vanilla notes, but both displayed the fresh acidic finish.  Two notes, the Simonnet Febvre is a left bank wine whereas the Louis Moreau is a right bank produced by a two hundred year old domaine. 

We finished the afternoon with a Grand Cru - the Domaine Servin Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots 2011 ($45).  There are only seven Grands Cru climats in Chablis and the Domaine Servin right bank vines face east-west - giving more morning sun exposure. The result is more fruit (this is also a rare unoaked Grand Cru),  less minerality, and even less acidity - as compared to the others.  Despite the un-Chablis style - this wine is impressive. Probably my second favorite behind the Séguinot-Bordet. Cheers to Chablis and a hearty thanks to Pure Chablis and Proof.

Burgundy Wine Expo - French Embassy

On Thursday April 23 we were invited to a Burgundy Wine Tasting held at the French Embassy and hosted by the Burgundy Wine Board (BIVB). As expected, the expo provided fabulous Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines as well as a nice overview of the Burgundy region. Wine has been produced in this region for over 2,000 years, which is remarkable since many the the ancient wine growing regions are no longer producing wine. We also learned about the five vignobles within Burgundy, from Chablis in the north, through Côte de Nuits to Côte de Beaune and finally to Côte Chalonnaise and Mâconnais in the south.

We started with the Pinot Noirs and we found a common trait among most of these wines in that the nose was peppery, but on the palate the wine was full cherry flavors with little or no spiciness. Not even a lot of earthiness. Maybe the winemakers are succumbing to the American palate. With over 30 exhibitors we didn't taste wine from every company or even the entire portfolio within an exhibit; with that said, of the wines we tasted, we found some keepers starting the 2005 Clos des Langres Monopole from Domaine d'Ardhuy. Evidently 2005 was an excellent vintage in Burgundy, and this wine reflects that. It is smooth and creamy even with the aforementioned peppery nose. But the tail, no tannins - completely smooth. Located in the Côte de Beaune this winery also produces an excellent Grand Cru from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Beaune was also the region that produced our other two favorites, the Domaine Chanson Pere & Fils, 2005 Clos des Feves and the creamy Bourgogne Parent, 2002 Les Epenottes. There were other outstanding reds. Starting with Maison Louis Latour, Clavelier & Fils, Domaine Tortochot, and Chateau de Melin.

In many cases the actual winemaker was pouring the wines so we were able to meet the families and learn about their history. Many of these wineries have been in the same family for over 5 or 6 generations. One overlooked benefit is that their is an immediate library of facts and history that the winemaker can resource when weather conditions make winemaking difficult. In most situations, there is a documented history to suggest alterations duing the winemaking and evidence how the wine matures in these years. This is difinately somthing missing in the states.

Because of time constraints, we did not sample many chardonnay wines. The Chateau Beru was one of our favorites, producing only whites. Another winery that just produced chardonnay was Cave de Vire. And we can't forget the Closerie des Alisiers - Stephane Brocard. We started with their red Gevrey-Chambertin, but really liked their chardonnay - particularly the 2007 Meursault.

Another benefit of this expo was the booklet of reading material we were able to take home. We will be studying this region, learning more bout its history, regions, wines, and wine-making families.

More photos are available at the Compass Tours section.