9diDANTE, Inferno, Purgatorio, and Vermouth di Torino Superiore IGP

9diDANTE comes to life as a modern liquid version of the poem (Comedìa). To us, Vermouth is a power struggle between Wormwood and all the other botanicals, told in a language that everyone can understand … wine!  -- Alex Ouziel

Vermouth has been a popular topic within our community particularly after receiving samples of the Dante inspired 9diDANTE. The brand was created by Alex Ouziel in collaboration with Mario Baralis (ex-Carpano -- the father distillery of Italian vermouth). Their vermouth is produced at the historic Dr. M. Montanaro Distillery (1885) in Piedmont and they are one of a few producers in the Turin region to use 100% DOC Piedmontese wines, made entirely from native grapes -- Dolcetto/Cortese for the red Inferno and Arneis for the extra dry Purgatorio. Each vermouth contains 27 botanicals with the major contributors aligning to Dante's classical interpretation of the nine levels within each of the three cantiche – Inferno (Hell), Purgatorio (Purgatory), and Paradiso (Paradise)*.  Thus three cantiche multiplied by nine levels = 27 botanicals. 

The vermouth is produced within the Vermouth di Torino Superiore IGP -  a classification created in 2019 to guarantee the quality of its origin and process.  According to the Consortium, "World-renowned for the tradition and historicity of its production, Vermouth di Torino is an aromatized wine born in the 18th century at the foot of the Alps and enjoyed at the court of the Savoy kings. Vermouth di Torino is known worldwide for the tradition and history of production. The fame of Vermouth di Torino PGI is inextricably linked to Piedmont producers and Turin. In the 1800s, Turin was home to the aristocracy of vermouth makers, thanks to whom, in different ways and to different degrees, Vermouth di Torino achieved international standing and became appreciated worldwide. Over the years, techniques and processes have evolved: new ideas went hand in hand with the older practices, and they continue to coexist today, preserving and valorizing Vermouth di Torino's traditional production. Vermouth di Torino is classified according to the color (White, Amber, Rosé or Red) and the amount of sugar used in its preparation".  

As one of only a few Vermouths crafted and bottled under the Superiore classification, 9diDANTE goes well beyond the consortium's regulations. Whereas a Superiore vermouth must use at least 50% Piedmont wines, 9diDANTE uses 100%. Whereas Superiore vermouth must be produced and packaged locally, 9diDANTE sources the actual packaging locally. And whereas Superiore vermouth must be at least 75% wine content, 9diDANTE  has 84% wine content. 

The Inferno Rosso Vermouth di Torino Superiore IGP ($32) blend of  Dolcetto and Cortese contrasts with most other red vermouths in that the red Dolcetto provides coloring whereas most vermouths color using caramel. In the 9diDANTE Circles of  Hell, Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) resides in Limbo - home to the unbaptized and virtuous pagans such as Hippocrates and Aristotle. Cardamon appears as Lust, Bitter Orange Peel as Glutony, Cumin as Greed, Basil as Anger, Nettle as Heresy, Tansy as Violence, Fennel as Fraud, and poor Caraway as the lowest and coldest level of hell -- Treachery.  I enjoyed the Inferno chilled - basically neat - loads of complex herbaceous and citrus flavors. I can envision using in a Negroni - but save that for an inferior vermouth. 

The Purgatorio Extra Dry Vermouth di Torino Superiore IGP ($35) is comprised of 100% Arneis -- a noble Piedmont grape rescued from the verge of extinction in the 1960s and thanks to the efforts of one winemaker: the late Alfredo Currado of Vietti.  And this is the very first vermouth to be blended exclusively from 100% Arneis DOC wine. This vermouth also contains 27 botanicals. In the 9diDANTE steps to Peter's Gate and Levels of Purgatory, souls  move upwards to be purified of sins in order to enter the heavenly kingdom. Woodruff as Stubborness and Thyme as Repentance are cleansed before passing through Peter's Gate. Sage as Pride begins the lowest level of Purgatory, and moving upwards, Mint as Envy, Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) as Wrath, Melissa as Sloth, Lemon Peel as Avarice, Bitter Orange Peel as Gluttony, and Coridander as Lust. I'm not a Martini fan, which is the recommended cocktail, but I did imbibe the Purgatorio over ice with a twist of lime and orange. The pear notes of the Arneis are not lost in translation. 

* For those who would like to learn about the epic poem I recommend the Hillsdale College course or the Word On Fire seminar. 

Grape Spotlight: Cortese di Gavi DOCG from Riva Leone

The Gavi or Cortese di Gavi DOCG is an appellation covering still and sparkling white wines produced from the indigenous Cortese grape grown in and around the town of Gavi in southern Piedmont, Italy, roughly 50km (30 miles) due north of Genoa on the shores of the Mediterranean. -- wine-searcher.com

The designation of origin Gavi or Cortese di Gavi DOCG was established in 1998 based on a pre-existing DOC created in 1974. The DOCG area is a predominantly hilly area and vines are planted within 11 municipalities in the southern part of the province of Alessandria. The soils are primarily alluvial, calcareous, and limestone resulting in low yields and decent minerality. It's climate contains elements of both Continental and Mediterranean with abundant winter rainfall followed by hot and dry summers. The summer conditions are tempered by the influence of winds from the sea with abundant sunshine allows the grapes to slowly ripe. And the high diurnal temperature range between night and day allows for the grapes to retain acidity and boist the aromatics.

Cortese is a white grape variety most famously associated with the crisp, lime-scented wines of Gavi. The variety is known for its bracing acidity and its ability to retain freshness even when grown in warm environments. The variety has been grown in the southeastern part of Piedmont for hundreds of years with documents on Cortese dating back to the beginning of the 17th century (wine-searcher.com). The thin skinned grape can be very rigorous and vines and grapes must be pruned and dropped which also helps prevent rot by allowing more airflow. And the warn environment in Gavi allows the grapes to ripen fully balancing the high acidity.

Mack & Schuhle offers a Riva Leone line of wines from the Piedmont which includes the Riva Leone Gavi 2021 ($14.99). According to the Consorzio Tutela del Gavi, 2021 provided conditions in which "the grapes revealed a slow maturation ... stands out compared to previous years, with a better stability of the malic acid which suggests an excellent qualitative potential for the 2021 Gavi DOCG". For this wine, the grapes were lightly pressed and the must fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel vats. This is a delicious wine, starting with powerful aromatics of pineapple and pears leading to a lemon-lime profile, texture and minerality, finishing with racy - fresh acids. A complete bargain.