Grape Spotlight: Serbian Tamjanika from Milosavljević Winery

It was fortuitous that our Christmas Eve dinner at Ambar included a bottle of the Milosavljevic Winery Tamjanika Vila Vina. Tamjanika is an autochthonous Serbian variety where the grape’s etymology translates to incense and in old Slavic, Frankincense.  The grape is thought to be a local clone of Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains -- the oldest member of the Muscat family and one of the oldest grape varieties in the world. The variety is named for its small berries and seeds (petits grains) which leads to a range of citrus, floral and spice aromas, with a full, dry palate. 

Tamjanika shares the intensely pronounced muscat aroma and flavor. On the nose, it is richly floral and fruity; in addition to jasmine, strawberries, peaches, and honey, it is sometimes accompanied by notes of citrus and tropical fruit. On the palate, it is refreshing with a long and pleasant finish.  And that is the case with this Tamjanika Vila Vina. It is straw yellow in color and exudes that favorably muscat aroma followed by a pleasant herbaceousness, stone fruit, and spicy palate. 

The grapes for this wine were grown in the village of Bucje, Serbia, on the right bank of the Zapadna Morava River, where vine cultivation dates back to Roman times. The Tamjanika vines were planted about 1200 feet above sea level and are farmed as sustainably as possible including the use of grass and beneficial flora between rows to support ecological balance.  

The Milosavljevic Winery is a family-owned winery that was founded in 1978 by Branisav Milosavljević as a brandy producer, then added wine to the portfolio in 1980.  This laid the foundation for the current winery which was re-incorporated in 2006 by Milomir Milosavljević as a family winery and introducing the Vila Vina brand.  Milomir had spent 35 years in Switzerland, "learning from the best and adopting modern methods of viticulture and viticulture that included the precision of German winemakers and the sophistication of French winemakers". Today the winery is run by a triumvirate of  Milomir, his son Dragan, and Milomir's grandson Branko.

Grape Spotlight: Herzegovina Tamjanika (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains) from Wines of Illyria

Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains is an ancient white wine grape that originated in Greece and spread through southern Europe. In Italy, it is known as Muscat Blanc and the source of sparkling Asti and the semi-sparkling Moscato d’Asti. In France, it is one of that country's most widely planted white grape varieties -- particularly in southern France. And in the Balkins - specifically Serbia and Bosnia-Herzegovina -- local clones of Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains are called Tamjanika. 

Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains is named for its small berries and seeds (petits grains) and requires a long growing season as its buds early and ripens relatively late. Because of the small and dense berries, it is susceptible to mildew diseases and requires regular canopy management.  Like other muscat grapes, it produces a very aromatic wine either spicy, floral, and\or fruity.  It's high sugar density and acidity encourage vinification into sparkling and off-dry styles. That being said, in the Balkins, Tamjanika wines are generally drier since the hot Mediterranean climate inhibits the accumulation of sugar and acidity. 

In Bosnia-Herzegovina, Tamjanika is grown in the Mediterranean climate of Herzegovina near Mostar where agriculture is influenced by the Adriatic Sea (about 20 miles distance), several rivers, and the Herzegovinian mountains. The vines are generally planted in sandy loam soils at 150 to 1,000 feet above sea level. 

For this Wines of Illyria Galerija Vukoje Tamjanika 2019 ($21.99), the grapes are sourced from Vukoje Cellars -- located near the town of Trebinje on the banks of the Trebišnjica river. Trebinje is the southernmost city in Herzegovina and only 20 miles or so from Dubrovnik. Vukoje Cellars farms two estates with the Zasad Polje vineyards being the source of the Tamjanika. These vines are planted along the Trebišnjica riverbed with the dry and rugged country nearby. This wine starts with a floral aroma then transitioning to lime, grapefruit, and melon with some depth and finishes with food-friendly acidity.