Grape Spotlight: Maryland Regent from Burnt Hill Farm

The Regent Diamond is a 140.64-carat (28.128 g) diamond, classified as D color with a slight bluish tinge, cut into a cushion brilliant shape and internally flawless, making it one of the most historically significant and valuable diamonds in the world.  Discovered in India and cut in London, the diamond has adorned numerous French royal regalia - plus Napoleon - throughout history. Today it is hopefully secure at the Louvre and estimated to be worth US$60,000,000.  

With this background in mind, grape breeders at the Geilweilerhof Institute for Grape Breeding in Germany named a new hybrid after the diamond - the Regent grape. Big expectations. The grape was bred in 1967 by Professor Gerhardt Alleweldt with the intent to create a high-quality grape that could survive in cold climates.  He eventually crossed Diana (Silvaner × Müller-Thurgau) and Chambourcin - thus blending European vitus vinifera and French-hybrid genetics. After years of experimental plantings, the grape was officially released in 1996.

In general, Regent produces solid yields and is highly resistant to mildew diseases; the variety also has thick dark skins and an abundance of tannins. Chambourcin provides the resistance component whereas the Diana adds vinifera class. Unusually, Regent's flesh is stained red – a condition known as teinturier, and another indication that it is genetically geared toward producing powerful reds.

Regent has become a symbol of sustainable viticulture, reducing reliance on chemical sprays thanks to its natural resistance. This is what attracted Drew Baker, co-founder of Burnt Hill Farm, to organically farm grape on the their estate.  This fits into the regenerative farming philosophy espoused by Baker which we will highlight in more detail in a future post. In the meanwhile take a stroll through Regenerative Farming: Why the Fuss? which includes a video of Burnt Hill Farm. In general, they treat the farm as its own ecosystem and raise longwool sheep, woodland hogs, honey bees, log-grown mushrooms, heritage grains, and a small orchard. They even harvested dying ash trees to create foeders to ferment and age their wine.

The 2021 Single Barrel Selection RE - 01 Barrel 5 spent three years in one of these foeders before being bottled and released as a single barrel selection. Drew is very enthusiastic about this release and the future of Regent at Burnt Hill Farm.  This medium-full bodied wine reminded me of a partnership between Petite Sirah and Chambourcin.  It appeared to have dark red fruit, more black pepper than spice, and more tannic structure than a typical Chambourcin. Plus an abundant supply of aromatics. Looks very promising. 

Regenerative Farming: Why the Fuss?

Last year we posted a few articles on Regenerative Farming in terms of the core tenets being implemented at Grgich Hills Estate, Ridge Vineyards, and Domaine Bousquet.  Why the fuss over regenerative farming practices? Let's first look at the negative consequences of conventional farming practices. 

• Soil degradation due to wind and water erosion, soil compaction, loss of organic matter, reduced water-holding capacity, and salinization in irrigated areas, which collectively diminish soil productivity.
• The extensive use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides contributes to water pollution, contaminating groundwater and surface waters with nitrates, phosphorus, and other chemicals, leading to eutrophication and the creation of "dead zones" in aquatic ecosystems.
• Monoculture practices and heavy pesticide use reduce biodiversity by harming pollinators and other beneficial insects.
• The overuse of pesticides has also led to the development of resistant pests and pathogens, complicating pest management.
• These practices also pose health risks to farm workers and consumers due to exposure to pesticide residues and the sub-therapeutic use of antibiotics in animal production.
  

Now, let's examine the positive benefits of regenerative farming practices.

• No till agriculture reduces erosion and keeps valuable nutrients and microbes in the soil.
• Bio-diversity in the vineyard through at least four plant groups leads to sharing of nutrients.
• Planting cover crops that become layers of armor by protecting the soil from sunlight and maintains moisture.
• Let animals manage most vineyard activities such as mowing and pest control. Grgich Hills uses sheep, owls, songbirds, guinea fowl, and other animals to control cover crops and pests.
• Institute labor practices that ensure sufficient wages and worker safety that leads to greater retention and thus increased productivity.

Because of the negative consequences of conventional farming and the positive benefits from regenerative practices, farms are transitioning to various regenerative certifications. These include:

• USDA Certified Organic: While not strictly regenerative, organic farming avoids synthetic pesticides and fertilizers, laying a foundation for further regenerative practices.
• Demeter Biodynamic: This certification focuses on a holistic approach to agriculture, emphasizing soil health and biodiversity.
• Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC): This emerging standard verifies adherence to principles focused on soil health, animal welfare, and social fairness.

Over the next year we will be posting about Regenerative Farming practices implemented at various vineyards and farms such as here at Maryland's Burnt Hill Farm. As you can see in the video below the farm practices bio-diversity; planting cover crops; and allow animals, in this case sheep, to manage many vineyard activities.  

Are there pitfalls and criticism of regenerative agriculture? Absolutely.  There is a solid argument that the global food system cannot transition entirely to regenerative methods without causing deforestation and habitat destruction, as there is insufficient land available for farming. The shift to regenerative practices also places significant demands on farmers, particularly smaller ones, who may lack the resources or support to adopt these new tenets.  Fair enough, but we should move away from synthetic fertilizers and pesticides that are extremely damaging. Your thoughts?

Old Westminster Winery, Burnt Hill Farm, & The Summer Solstice Festival

“We’re going to challenge current beliefs with unique and transparent wines – wines that offer balance, nuance, and character. We’re going to farm thoughtfully, using biodiverse cover crops, biodynamic principles and incorporating animals. And then, in the winery, we’re going to craft wines with a light hand, ferment with indigenous yeast, and bottle it all without fining or filtration. These wines will be made without makeup – a pure reflection of the time and place where they’re grown and the people who guided the process." Drew Baker.

Photo Courtesy of
Old Westminster Winery

This is the guiding principle behind the next phase of Maryland's Old Westminster Winery as this accomplished and innovative winery attempts to challenge contemporary winemaking through The Burnt Hill Project. The Baker family has been very successful in their previous endeavors, first by immediately impressing consumers and critics after an initial launch of Old Westminster Winery, being the first to can and successfully market Maryland wine, and creating a custom crush facility for other aspiring winemakers.  So there's little reason to conclude this next phase will not be as successful.

Burnt Hill Farm is located in northwestern Montgomery County and its name comes from the late 1800s, when the owners "despaired of growing crops in the nutrient-poor soils and made money by burning trees and brush to make charcoal, potash, and lye". The farm has the ideal gradient and clay-limestone soils congruent for Gamay and Pinot Noir, grapes normally not planted in the Free State. But why stop there. They are also planting "90 experimental varieties bred by Cliff Ambers, an iconoclastic viticulturist who pollinates native grape vines with pollen from European vinifera varieties” Dave McIntyre Washington Post.

The Bakers will continue the viticulture philosophy from their Home Vineyard in Westminster, all work done by hand, sustainable farming, minimalist winemaking, and fermenting with native yeast. They have also incorporated bio-dynamic vineyard practices at Burnt Hill Farm  -- starting two years before planting their first vines - in order to create a living organism. Biodynamic farms generate their own fertility through composting, integrating animals, and cover cropping. This effort at Burnt Hill includes rotating cover crops like wheat and daikon radish, planting manure filled bull horns that will eventually fertilize the vineyard, and introducing sheep next year.

"We choose to think of our farm as a living, breathing organism. Like a human body with a system of organs, our farm is a complex system of interacting substances and processes...> biodynamics." Drew Baker

Consumers can discover Old Westminster's minimalist approach to winemaking as well as taste a preview of what should come from Burnt Hill at their Summer Solstice Festival on June 22, 2019. Under a circus tent at Burnt Hill Farm, low-intervention winemakers from across the globe will pour 100+ unique wines. The lineup includes Broc Cellars, Hiyu Wine Farm, Zafa Wines, Floral Terranes, Margins Wine, Methode Sauvage, Iapetus Wine, Wild Arc Farm, Inconnu Wine, Johan Vineyards, The Scholium Project, Fable Farm, Purity Wine, En Cavale, Fausse Piste, Old Westminster, Lightwell Survey, Liten Buffel, Maitre de Chai, Old World Winery, Les Lunes, Ruth Lewandowski, Brooks, Art+Science, Native Selections, Zev Rovine, Williams Corner, Plant Wines, MFW, Domestique, Wines of Georgia, Revel Wine, and more...

And to learn more about the festival and Old Westminster Winery tune to #Winestudio on Twitter Tuesdays in June at 9PM E.T. Cheers and hope to see you at the Summer Solstice.