The Essence of the Olive: From Tree to Taste: How Olive Oil Is Made

Behind every golden drop of olive oil lies a process that blends ancient tradition with modern precision. Much like winemaking or distillation, olive oil production is a balance of art and science — where timing, technique, and terroir determine the outcome. From the grove to the press, each step in the journey shapes the oil’s flavor, aroma, and integrity.

For those in the beverage world, understanding how olive oil is made offers valuable insight into its complexity — and the same appreciation we give to the craftsmanship behind a fine wine or spirit.

Featured Producer
Terre Francescane is located in Umbria and the Gradassi family has been farming olives for 400 years.  In 1639, when – according to an ancient inscription found on a stone in the old olive mill – the Gradassi family began farming olives. Four centuries later they still proudly harvest olives from the same fertile slopes their ancestors did. I picked up this bottle of their L'Italiano Black Ceramic at the Rome airport duty free store and wish I had purchased more. It's slightly sweet with a pleasant bitterness at the finish - easy for a teaspoon a day diet. 

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The Harvest: Timing Is Everything

The olive harvest typically takes place between October and December in the Northern Hemisphere (and April to June in the Southern Hemisphere). The timing of the pick is crucial:

• Early-harvest olives are greener, yielding robust, peppery oils with higher polyphenol content (the antioxidants that give structure and bite).
  

• Late-harvest olives are riper, producing smoother, fruitier oils with a gentler profile and golden hue.
  

Producers choose their harvest moment based on desired flavor, cultivar, and market style — much like vintners deciding when to pick grapes. In many small groves, olives are still hand-harvested, preserving fruit integrity and reducing bruising before pressing.

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From Fruit to Paste: The Milling Process

Once harvested, speed is essential Olives begin to oxidize and ferment quickly after picking, so quality-focused producers rush them to the mill — often within hours.

At the mill (frantoio in Italy or almazara in Spain), olives are washed and ground into a thick paste using hammer or blade mills. This paste contains both oil and water, and the goal is to separate the two while preserving the delicate aromas and flavors.

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Malaxation: The Quiet Transformation

After milling, the olive paste is gently mixed in a process called malaxation. This slow churning (usually 20–40 minutes) allows small oil droplets to coalesce into larger ones — a critical step for flavor development. Temperature control here is key: to qualify as cold-extracted or cold-pressed, the process must stay below 27°C (80°F) to prevent flavor loss and preserve antioxidants.

Professionals often compare this stage to maceration in winemaking or blending in distilling — it’s where texture, balance, and character begin to emerge.

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Extraction: Separating Liquid Gold

Modern producers use cen, the purest and highest-quality grade, obtained mechanically without chemical refinement or excessive heat.

The remaining byproduct, called pomace, can be repurposed for compost, fuel, or lower-grade oil production, aligning with sustainable agricultural practices.

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Storage & Bottling: Protecting Freshness

Fresh olive oil is like fresh juice — vibrant, aromatic, and best enjoyed soon after production. It’s typically stored in stainless steel tanks under nitrogen or inert gas to minimize oxygen exposure and light damage. When bottled, dark glass or tins help preserve quality, and clear labeling ensures transparency on harvest date, origin, and cultivar.

Much like wine, olive oil evolves over time — but rather than aging, it gradually loses intensity. The best producers encourage consumption within 12–18 months of harvest for peak flavor.

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Craft in Every Step

From the meticulous timing of the harvest to the precision of cold extraction, making olive oil demands the same attention to detail that defines great winemaking and distillation. For beverage professionals, understanding this process transforms olive oil from a simple pantry item into a crafted product — one that speaks of place, producer, and philosophy.

For travelers, visiting a working mill during harvest reveals a world alive with sensory energy — the hum of machinery, the scent of fresh-cut grass, and the taste of vivid green oil straight from the press. It’s an experience that captures both the science of extraction and the soul of the Mediterranean.

The Essence of the Olive: Introducing Our Olive Oil Series

Few ingredients in the world of food carry as much heritage, versatility, and symbolism as olive oil. For thousands of years, this golden liquid has nourished civilizations, inspired poets, and defined entire culinary traditions. From the rocky hills of Greece to the sun-drenched groves of Spain, from the ancient presses of Italy to the emerging producers of California and beyond, olive oil remains a cornerstone of culture, craft, and cuisine.

In this new series, we’ll explore olive oil from root to bottle — uncovering the stories, science, and people behind it. We’ll delve into how geography and climate shape its character, how different olive varieties yield distinctive aromas and flavors, and how modern producers balance innovation with ancient methods. You’ll learn what makes an extra virgin truly “extra,” how to taste olive oil like a professional, and how to pair it with food and wine.

Join us on this journey through groves, mills, and markets as we uncover the world of olive oil — one harvest, one taste, one or two stories at a time.

So let's jump in. What is Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO)? 

Extra virgin olive oil is the highest quality grade of olive oil, made exclusively from the first cold-pressing of olives without heat or chemicals, resulting in a superior flavor, aroma, and higher nutritional value. The cold-pressing retains more antioxidants, polyphenols, and vitamin E, contributing to its anti-inflammatory properties and health benefits. Finally, the olive oil must have a free acidity level of 0.8% or less and is assessed by a tasting panel to ensure it has no defects and a distinct fruity character. 

In contrast, virgin olive oil has a higher acidity level (between 0.8% and 2.0%) and may have minor defects detectable by taste, making it less flavorful and less nutritious than EVOO.  Virgin olive oil is often produced by blending refined olive oil with a small amount of virgin or extra virgin oil to improve its taste and color, which reduces its health benefits compared to EVOO. Since virgin olive oil is typically lighter in color, milder in flavor, and less expensive than extra virgin olive oil it is more suitable for cooking at higher temperatures where its flavor is less critical.

The production of EVOO requires olives to be harvested at optimal ripeness and processed quickly (often within 90 minutes) to preserve quality, while virgin olive oil can be made from olives with higher acidity or from later harvests.  The production process will be covered more in depth next week with From Tree to Taste: How Olive Oil Is Made.

Fattoria Poggio Alloro is an agritourism destination providing spectacular views of San Gimignano and the surrounding rolling hills. The farm is located 40km southwest from Florence and only 5km from San Gimignano.  The name Poggio Alloro means Bay Leaf Hill, and it refers to the bay laurel bushes that grow everywhere on their property. There's a multitude of agricultural commodities grown on the one hundred hectares from grapes; fruits; vegetables; and grains: barley, oats, corn, sunflowers, durum, wheat, farro; and olives.

More specifically 1,500 olive trees that are used in the production of extra-virgin olive oil. The Leccino, Moraiolo, and Frantoio varieties are completely hand picked in November, and then cold pressed to guarantee superior quality.   Their EVOO has a golden yellow color with light green tones and has a stone fruit, slightly spicy flavor with an intense finish.