Shenandoah Valley - Appalachian Highlands Road Trip Stop 6: Troddenvale Cider

Recently I spent a couple days traveling the backroads of the Shenandoah Valley into the Appalachian Highlands visiting as many craft beverage establishments as possible. This endeavor included four wineries in the Shenandoah Valley, two breweries in the Appalachian Highlands, and a couple cider houses within both regions. Here's the story. 

The Warm Springs Valley is a narrow mountain valley in Bath County shaped by the Allegheny Highlands and has a long history of mineral‑spring activity which has been enticing visitors to the region since the early eighteenth century. The valley floor sits between parallel ridgelines, creating a landscape of mixed pasture, forest, and small agricultural holdings, with elevations rising sharply on both sides of the valley. Warm Springs Run flows through the center of the valley, fed by the natural warm springs that give the area its name. The combination of sheltered terrain, reliable water sources, and cooler nighttime temperatures has supported farming for more than two centuries and continues to define the geography surrounding Hot Springs and Warm Springs today.

Oakley Farm is one of these historical agricultural holdings - founded in 1834 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It is one of the oldest continuously operated farms in Bath County. The property sits at 2,400 feet on a karst limestone in Warm Springs, Virginia and is surrounded by the George Washington National Forest. Over nearly two centuries, three families have shaped and stewarded this farm. Today, Oakley is home to two ventures, Troddenvale and Foodlore, "each rooted in the land and in the traditions of food, farming, and gathering that continue to shape this valley".

Troddenvale can be roughly translated to the “valley road” and is inspired by the long  history of visitors traveling to Virginia’s great springs region: the Warm Springs Valley.  The cidery focuses on producing ciders from fruit grown in the Appalachian Highlands and their estate orchards include a mix of heirloom and modern apple varieties suited to the region’s cooler nights and well‑drained soils. I learned later that they also source apples from Virginia's modern pomme pioneer, Diane Flynt, and her Foggy Ridge Cider.  Troddenvale's ciders emphasizes traditional styles without additions or adjustments. They rely on native yeasts that provides genuine complexity and individual character; fermenting in neutral oak that creates depth; and unfiltered bottling that provides texture.

During our visit I sampled five ciders that were offered as their weekend sampler. The first was the 2024 House Cider ($22), produced from a blend of apples grown on the farm and nearby orchards -- including Foggy Ridge. Interestingly the fresh pressed juice was fermented in a combination of French, American oak, and Black Locust barrels.  House Cider is made in a straightforward manner, relying on natural acidity and the characteristics of the fruit to present a dry profile with moderate tannin and the light orchard‑fruit notes typical of Appalachian‑grown apples. 

The 2024 Forage Cider ($26) was next and as the name suggests made from apples collected from wild or unmanaged trees located near to Oakley Farm.  These trees often include older or unidentified varieties that persist in the region’s hollows, fence lines, and former homestead sites. Foraged apples can show higher tannin, variable acidity, and more rustic aromatics compared to cultivated fruit. The resulting cider presents a drier, more structured profile starting with an interesting sour grapefruit note that after strongly aerating mellows into a more Martinelli fresh apple flavor.

The 2024 Petit Cider ($25) is produced from 100% Virginia Hewe’s Crab apples grown at Foggy Ridge, Countryside Farm & Nursery, and apples from Hidden Valley in Warm Springs planted by the forest service in the mid 1990s. After native fermentation and resting on its lees for many months, the cider was bottled and let to rest 10 months before release. The tasting notes genuinely reflect the orange marmalade notes that slowly open after the reduced aroma is allowed to aerate. 

The 2024 A Little Man Sings ($30) is a natural wine made from Petit Manseng where the grapes were grown in Crozet Virginia at Grace Estates Winery and Chiles Family Orchards. The grapes were foot tread and macerated whole cluster for two weeks. Upon fermenting dry, the wine was pressed directly to barrel, blending with a small amount of reserve wine from previous vintages. The barrels sat open and un-topped for 12 months. The result is a tart wine with some pineapple and other tropical notes with a unique brown sugar character. And still plenty of acidity.

The final offering is the 2023 Family Ties ($45) - a truly unique collaboration between  Lightwell Survey and Troddenvale. This wine-cider hybrid is made from Traminette grapes blended with Virginia Hewe’s Crab. "Once the cider reached near-dryness, clusters of Traminette grapes were foot-tread, pressed, and combined with the cider in a neutral French oak barrel. The mixture rested undisturbed until it was racked off its lees in early March 2024 and bottled still."  I really enjoyed this collaboration with the spicy and floral character of the grapes mingling with the tartness and tannin of the crabapples. Perhaps its blaspheming but I would augment with a little sparkling water to return the a more effervescent character. Cheers. 

Shenandoah Valley - Appalachian Highlands Road Trip Stop 5: Bacova Beer

Recently I spent a couple days traveling the backroads of the Shenandoah Valley into the Appalachian Highlands visiting as many craft beverage establishments as possible. This endeavor included four wineries in the Shenandoah Valley, two breweries in the Appalachian Highlands, and a couple cider houses within both regions. Here's the story. 

Hot Springs was our fist destination on day two, and like many towns in Bath County its development is tied to the long history of tourism centered around the region’s mineral springs. Visitors began arriving in the eighteenth century, and by the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries the Homestead Resort and surrounding businesses formed a small commercial district that served travelers seeking the springs and the mountain climate. The town today maintains a mix of long‑standing service establishments and newer small businesses that support both residents and visitors to the Allegheny Highlands.

After traveling from Clifton Forge and through the scenic views of Alleghany Highlands and Bath County, we arrived in Hot Springs just in time for Bacova Beer to open for lunch. The brewery initially opened in 2017 and is owned and operated by Seth and Emily Ellis -- both having ties to Bath County’s community and outdoor culture. The name references the historic Bacova community and woodcraft enterprise that operated in the county during the mid‑twentieth century and known for producing handmade household goods. The brewery operates a five barrel brewhouse, a taproom offering a rotating lineup of beers, plus a kitchen serving pub fare and sandwiches. 

One of these sandwiches that immediately caught our attention was their Avocado BLT. Seemed like a great option to pair with their six beer flight.  The first selection was the 180 Kölsch. The name derives from Seth doing a "180" regarding Emily's suggestion to brew this German style beer which their version follows the traditional approach: presenting a pale, restrained malt profile and a dry finish.  Love it and have been sipping cans at home since our return. 

The Furious George is hybrid ale crossing an English Bitter with an American IPA, in other words, biscuity malt background as English Bitters pronounced dry hop character of an IPA.  I'm not sure how I felt about this hybrid - would be interested in their version of a strict English Bitter. 

The Sally Amber is an amber ale -- a style traditionally defined by moderate malt sweetness, caramel notes, and a balanced hop presence. Yet the brewery augments this into a West-Coast style with a  prominent supply of hops.  Another where I would rather try a true Amber Ale 

The Harris Porter is a traditional English porter emphasizing roasted malt, chocolate, and coffee notes, with moderate bitterness and a fuller body than lighter ales. Love this beer - imagine sipping in Autumn among the mountain leaves. 

Bacova brews a year round Irish‑style red ale in the Conner O’Malley. This style typically shows moderate malt sweetness, light caramel notes, and a subtle toasted character, with a reddish hue derived from specialty malts.  Nicely done and named for the family dog - a Siberian Huskey with red fur. 

The final offering in our flight was the seasonal Hay Fever wheat beer. Another very drinkable beer that matches the expected character of  soft grain and subtle fruit with spice notes.  Probably the best pairing choice with the Avocado BLT. Cheers.

Shenandoah Valley - Appalachian Highlands Road Trip Stop 4: Jack Mason’s Tavern and Brewery

Recently I spent a couple days traveling the backroads of the Shenandoah Valley into the Appalachian Highlands visiting as many craft beverage establishments as possible. This endeavor included four wineries in the Shenandoah Valley, two breweries in the Appalachian Highlands, and a couple cider houses within both regions. Here's the story. 

Clifton Forge was our final destination for the first day of the trip and this town's development was closely tied to the expansion of the Chesapeake & Ohio Railway. Clifton Forge grew as a rail center beginning in the late nineteenth century, serving as a location for locomotive maintenance, crew changes, and freight movement through the Allegheny Mountains. The town’s commercial district formed around this activity, with hotels, restaurants, and taverns supporting rail workers and travelers. Jack Mason’s occupies a building within this historic core and reflects the town’s connection to rail‑based industry and the transition toward tourism and local commerce that followed the decline of heavy rail operations.

After checking into our hotel, we immediately ventured downtown to Jack Mason’s Tavern and Brewery. The operation was established in 2009 by Martha Atherholt and Wendy Hudler who named the tavern as a tribute to Martha’s grandfather, Jack Hiram Mason -- "whom they admired for his many and varied accomplishments". In July 2022 the tavern changed hands to lifelong friends of Martha's, Michael and Ann Foster, who retained the tavern name and tradition of naming beers in alliance with Clifton Forge's history.  

The first beer I chose while waiting for my plate of Smoke Sausage and Kraut was their Loghopper Tavern Kölsch. I can't believe there isn't a Beer Centric post on Kölsch, so in brief this is a German style originating from Cologne, brewed as an ale but conditioned at cooler temperatures. This process creates a clean, light beer with moderate bitterness and subtle fruit notes. And the name "Loghopper" refers to the logging and timber activity in the Allegheny region, where workers moved timber along rail lines and through mountain passes. The beer nails the traditional profile of the style, offering a pale color, restrained malt character, and a dry finish.

I then selected the Brother Perkins Brown Ale to pair with the smoked sausage. The name refers to a local preacher known within Clifton Forge’s community history. Brother Perkins was remembered for his role in local religious life and for his interactions with residents, becoming part of the town’s oral tradition. The ale offers a malt‑forward style with color and flavors associated with caramel, toast, and light chocolate.  The beer blended nicely with the savory smokiness of the sausage and with the moderate alcohol level I was tempted to another pint -- but not after this long day.

Shenandoah Valley - Appalachian Highlands Road Trip Stop1: The Winery at Kindred Pointe

Recently I spent a couple days traveling the backroads of the Shenandoah Valley into the Appalachian Highlands visiting as many craft beverage establishments as possible. This endeavor included four wineries in the Shenandoah Valley, two breweries in the Appalachian Highlands, and a couple cider houses within both regions. Here's the story. 

The Shenandoah Valley is a 140–150 mile long and 25 miles wide geographic corridor located in western Virginia and the eastern panhandle of West Virginia.  It is bounded to the east by the Blue Ridge Mountains and to the west by the Allegheny Mountains. Plus, the valley floor is bisected by Massanutten Mountain, a 50-mile ridge that splits the valley into sub-valleys and separates the north and south forks of the Shenandoah River.  The region features karst topography with limestone bedrock that creates fertile soil, sinkholes, and extensive cave systems.

Grape growing in the Shenandoah Valley is shaped by the region’s position between the Allegheny Mountains and the Blue Ridge. These ranges create a rain shadow that results in lower annual precipitation compared to other parts of Virginia. Lower humidity reduces disease pressure, which can allow growers to extend the growing season when conditions permit. Vineyard elevations commonly range from roughly 900 to 1,500 feet, contributing to cooler nighttime temperatures. Soils in the area include limestone, shale, and loam, which drain efficiently and support varieties that benefit from moderate fertility and consistent water management. Like the rest of the Commonwealth, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc are popularly planted grapes, but the cooler climate is also suitable for Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Albarino, Seyval Blanc, and late‑ripening vinifera varieties such as Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Our first stop of this trip was at The Winery at Kindred Pointe which sits within the central agricultural landscape of the Shenandoah Valley. The winery operates on a property that originally functioned as an equestrian farm. The transition to grape growing began in the early 2010s, when the owners planted varieties suited to the conditions of the region. The tasting room and surrounding structures retain elements of the site’s earlier use, including the horse imagery that appears on several wine labels. The winery produces small quantities of wine from estate fruit and from growers within the Shenandoah Valley American Viticultural Area.

The tasting flight offered at Kindred Pointe shows how they leverage the history and regional strengths of the Valley. We started with the Saving the Edinburg Mill ($32) , a blend of Albarino, Sauvignon Blanc, and Dazzle, that references the preservation of the historic pre-civil war era mill. For those like us newly introduced to the Dazzle grape, it was developed by the University of Arkansas that they describe as "floral and fruity with herbal and spicy aromas".  Expect to enjoy peaches and other lively stone fruit while admiring the artwork. 

We then moved on to a pair of Seyval Blanc wines starting with the stainless steel 2022 Seyval Blanc ($28). The is a fresh grapefruit forward wine with fantastic acidity. In contrast, the 2021 Seyval Blanc Skins ($28) was fermented on the skins which adds texture, tannin, and deeper color, while providing a more savory dimension that differs from the stainless‑steel style. 

Turning to reds, Petit Verdot is a major focus appeared in two vintages and a blend. The 2019 Petit Verdot French ($35) is aged 36 months in French oak and shows how long aging softens tannins and integrates dark fruit flavors. The velvety fruit is layered with soft vanilla and earthy characters. The 2020 Petit Verdot ($32) offers a comparison shaped by both the vintage and aging in American oak for the same 36 month period. This version is spicier, not as velvety, and with closer to smokey cedar. The final wine wine to discuss is their 2021 Hungarian Blend ($38), an interesting and unique blend of equal parts Chambourcin, Petit Verdot, and Dornfelder.  The typical Chambourcin profile is hidden as the 28 months in Hungarian oak and one year bottle aging softens the grapiness and allow the black fruit characters of the other two grapes to dominate.  This is a savory fire pit sipper. 

But instead of purchasing the Hungarian Blend I came home on a hunch with their single varietal 2021 Dornfelder ($36) that was aged for 36 months in new Hungarian oak. Check back to see if that was a good all.