Effervescence Unleashed: What is Crémant de Bourgogne?

Part of the Effervescence Unleashed program is to highlight the various sparkling wine regions and methods used throughout the world. One of these is Crémant de Bourgogne, a regional appellation for sparkling wine in the Bourgogne region of France.  According to The Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB), "the appellation Crémant de Bourgogne is restricted to effervescent wines made from still wines (called vins de base) by the traditional method (1)".  

The grapes from which the vins de base for Crémant de Bourgogne are made come from a wide variety of soils in vineyard districts throughout Bourgogne. They range from the chalky subsoil of the Joigny district in the north to the granites of southern Bourgogne, via the limestones and marls of the Côtes where most of the wines of this appellation are grown. The primary grape varieties are Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (minimum 30%) with secondary varieties: Gamay (20% maximum), Aligoté, Melon, Sacy.  Aligoté is a white grape variety known for its high acidity and is often used in blends to add structure and freshness. The Melon grape, also known as Melon de Bourgogne, is a variety of white grape primarily grown in the Loire Valley and is known for producing lean, mineral, and saline-driven white wines. Sacy is a light-skinned grape variety grown in the Yonne department in the far north of Burgundy.

This La Burgondie Brut Rosé ($12) was purchased at Trader Joes for an under $12.99 Sparkling buy and is composed of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Gamay. It is dry, but comes across sweeter with the abundance of strawberry flavor and minor minerality.  We paired the sparkling rosé with The Winemakers, a book  written by Jan Moran and featured during the BevFluence book series held at the Chicago Speakeasy. The love story and part-thriller is a good read, even for the less romantically inclined, and highlights winemaking in Napa Valley and Montalcino, Italy, with a side note to Bordeaux, France. 

Happy sipping and reading. 

(1) The traditional method, also known as méthode traditionnelle, is a process used to produce high-end sparkling wines. This method involves a second fermentation that occurs in the bottle, which is where the wine gets its bubbles. After the initial fermentation, the base wine is blended, and a small amount of sugar and yeast is added to each bottle. The bottles are then sealed and stored horizontally in a wine cellar to undergo the secondary fermentation. During this process, carbon dioxide is trapped in the bottle, creating the bubbles characteristic of sparkling wine.

After the secondary fermentation, the bottles are gradually tilted to an upside-down position and rotated slightly each day in a process called riddling. This helps to collect the sediment, or lees, in the neck of the bottle. The neck of the bottle is then frozen, and the cap is removed, ejecting the frozen sediment in a process called disgorgement. Immediately after disgorging, the bottle is topped up with a mixture of sugar and wine, known as the dosage, to adjust the sweetness level of the wine before it is corked and sealed.

Effervescence Unleashed Bonus Cocktail: The St Patrick's Day Black Velvet

We have a special bonus Effervescence Unleashed Cocktail: The St Patrick's Day Black Velvet. Celebrate with the Irish with this easy cocktail featuring just two ingredients: Guinness Stout and a sparkling wine. We choose the draft can of Guinness along with the very accessible Ruffino Prosecco. Cheers.

The Global Artisan Vintners Alliance

“Our vision is to create a network of global wine region partners who share the same ideals and values, who share the same struggles that we all endure, but coming together to trade ideas, tips and tricks, secrets of how we do our business, sharing with each other.”, David Haubert, D1 Supervisor County of Almeda

The Livermore Valley Wine Community (LVWC) and Alameda County, District 1 Supervisor, David Haubert are proud to announce the formation of The Global Artisan Vintners Alliance (AVA). The Global AVA was established to create a beneficial and sustainable alliance of partner wine regions across the globe. The founding wine regions include the Livermore Valley Wine Community, California; Texas Hill Country Wineries, Texas; Chilecito, Argentina; Dalmatia, Croatia; Chinon, France; Alentejo, Portugal; Vale dos Vinhedos, Brazil; Badacsony, Hungary and Ensenada, Baja California, Mexico.

“On behalf of the entire Livermore Valley Wine Community, we are proud to lead the efforts to establish The Global Artisan Vintners Alliance,” said Brandi Lombardi, Executive Director for the Livermore Valley Wine Community. “As one of the oldest wine regions in California, Livermore Valley has a rich history of winemaking tradition side by side with new winemakers and new techniques. This alliance will allow all partner regions to work together and expand opportunities for their winemakers and wineries as well as enhance tourism to their respective parts of the globe.”

The Global AVA will promote collaboration and exchange of information between winemakers, wine associations, government representatives, tourism and economic development organizations, and business associations. Representatives of the partner wine regions will actively participate in professional development opportunities through discussions about winemaking techniques and sustainability methods, student and professional intern exchanges, and sharing of best practices around economic development, agri-tourism and marketing initiatives to elevate the global presence of the participating wine region, among other opportunities.

“I envisioned creating a network of global wine region partners, and I’m thrilled to see this come to life through the hard work of my team and the Livermore Valley Winegrowers Association,” said David Haubert, Alameda County, District 1 Supervisor. “This Alliance will bring great value and innovation, and I’m excited to be part of this trailblazing group of industry leaders.”

The BevFluence team participated in a media zoom session discussing the formation of this alliance. The meeting started with welcome remarks by Lindsey Knight, the Global AVA Coordinator; followed by the vision and background of the forming of the Global AVA provided by David Haubert, Alameda County, District 1 Supervisor. Brandi Lombardi, Executive Director of the Livermore Valley Wine Community, CA gave additional information about the Livermore Valley wine region and the Global AVA; followed by a representative of each sister wine region introducing their organization and wine region.

One event that is on our radar will be the inaugural in-person Global AVA summit to be held Livermore, California sometime in 2025. We will post when more information becomes available.

Effervescence Unleashed Cocktail of the Month for March 2025: Mardi Gras Old Cuban

Effervescence Unleashed Cocktail of the Month for March: Mardi Gras Old Cuban

Capstone Vineyards Sparkling Chardonnay
Wildcat Brothers Distilling Noire Rum

Recipe:

• 6 whole mint leaves
• 1 ounce simple syrup
• 3/4 ounce lime juice, freshly squeezed
• 1 1/2 ounces aged rum
• 2 dashes Angostura bitters
• 2 ounces sparkling wine, chilled
• Garnish: mint sprig

1. Muddle the mint leaves with the simple syrup and lime juice in a shaker.
2. Add the rum and bitters and ice and shake until well-chilled.
3. Double-strain into a coupe glass.
4. Top with sparkling wine and garnish with a mint sprig.
   
   

Capstone Vineyards is a family-owned winery located on the slopes of Blue Mountain in Linden, Virginia. The vineyard produces some of the best fruit in Virginia, resulting in handcrafted wines that are expressive of the land and the people behind them. Visitors can enjoy a unique wine-tasting experience surrounded by breathtaking views and a warm, intimate atmosphere. The 2021 method champenoise sparkling wine is dry, crisp, refreshing.

Wildcat Brothers Distilling is located in Lafayette, Louisiana and uses local sugarcane to produce smooth and unique French-style rums. According to the distillery, "Bourbon enthusiasts will appreciate the full-bodied flavor that our maturation journey produces."

BevFluence Chicago Speakeasy: The Story of Norton

In 1873, the international wine community was stunned when a Missouri produced Norton wine produced by Poeschel & Scherer was declared the “Best Red of All Nations” at an International competition in Vienna, Austria. Then another medal at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1873. The popularity of Norton exploded - worldwide. At the time many European vineyards were just recovering from Phylloxera, and because of Norton’s relative immunity to disease and pests, this grape was designated as a possible savior to their ravaged vineyards. 

During the 2025 BevFluence Chicago Speakeasy I presented "The Story of Norton", a seminar that described the history of America's Grape - starting with the 1873 Best Red of All Nations award in Vienna, Austria. During the presentation, I poured four Norton wines, two from Missouri and the other from Virginia.  After the presentation, attendees poured samples from a number available Norton wines that had been opened during the previous night's Norton Wine Dinner for industry professionals.

The attendees started with a glass of the 2022 Stone Hill Cross J Norton. The winemaker at Stone Hill Winery, Nathan Held, asked that I relay that he feels this is a great representation of what a young Norton wine should taste. I mentioned that inexperienced winemakers can produce a Norton that is astringent and too acidic, whereas this wine exhibited  a spicy nose with tart plums and black cherries with subtle earthiness and spice. 

Back to our story.   

I discussed the preponderance of German settlers to the Midwest between 1827 and 1856 and how Hermann Missouri was created specifically for German immigrants.  And grape growing was a popular endeavor. By 1847 there were 28 vine growers in Hermann with one being Michael Poeschel started making wine using Catawba and Isabella - two Vitis labrusca grapes. Soon he partnered with another German, John Scherer, to form Poeschel & Scherer.

In the 1850s, under the leadership of George Hussmann, Norton was recommended and Hussmann distributed cuttings and by 1858 Princes Nursery (Flushing, New York) shipped the first documented instance of Norton vines to Hermann. Norton and Cynthiana were quickly adopted by Poeschel & Scherer. The winery was renamed Stone Hill Wine Co. Over time successful salesmen turned business partners William Herzog and George Stark helped grow the winery to become the second-largest winery in the country. Winning top honors in 8 World’s Expos between 1873 and 1915, the winery gained international prominence in the world of wine.   But there were stormy clouds on the horizon. 

The attendees then sampled the 2018 Stone Hill Winery Old Vine Reserve Norton. The grapes come from  a tiny 1/4 acre vineyard of Norton grapevines that were planted in 1863, during the Civil War. According to the winery, "once in a great while the shy bearing Ancient Vines produce enough grapes for a barrel or two of Norton Wine".  The wine was aged two years in French oak and shows more roundness plus hints of chocolate and more mature dark fruit. But still plenty of lively acidity. 

Back to our story.   

With World War I came anti-German sentiment, which hurt the traditionally German alcohol industry in Missouri, slowing growth. With the end of the war, the temperance movement started to dominate politics and eventually succeeded with Prohibition being ratified in 1919 and enacted in 1920. George Stark’s sons were forced to shutter the winery and order the vineyards to be destroyed. In 1923, the cellars were transformed into a mushroom farm which would continue under Bill and Mary Harrison until wine could once again find a home in their halls. 

During and after prohibition there was a strong home winemaking tradition in Missouri with Jim & Betty Held as active participants.  In 1965, they moved into the remnants of the old Stone Hill Wine Co. at the urging of the Harrisons in order to resuscitate the winery. He started with Catawba and Concord  but searched throughout the region to find existing Norton vines. He eventually found and purchased a plot of old civil war era - vines at a property owned by another home winemaker Rauch. This is the grapes used in the 2018 Stone Hill Winery Old Vine Reserve Norton.

The attendees then sampled the Bluemont Vineyard 2020 Norton Reserve. I wanted to show another younger Norton and stressed the noticeable difference with the Stone Hill Cross J Norton. It was livelier with more spices, bubbly sour cherries, and noticeable tannins. 

Back to our story. 

Norton or Vitis Aestivalis is a native North American grape officially discovered in 1823 by Dr. Daniel Norborne Norton (1794-1842), a physician from Richmond. After his first wife died during childbirth he turned to cultivating new grapes (27 in total) in a small plot of land known as Magnolia Farm - northwest of Richmond.  Even though Jefferson was never successful in finding a wine grape suitable to the Virginia climate, he may have inspired Dr. Norton's new endeavor. There are saved correspondence between Dr. Norton and Jefferson's chief grape grower. But fortune is odd. The Norton grape was not created intentionally, but resulted as a chance of nature through open pollination. Initially it was thought to be a natural cross between Pinot Meunier and a now extinct hybrid known as Bland. What is known for sure is that the male parent, was a wild vine of Vitis aestivalis.

Shortly after his discovery, Norton was quickly adopted by many growers as a hearty grape able to yield quality fruit for wine making. Based on sale documents, Norton is one of the oldest native grape varieties commercially used to make wine in North America. In fact, it was sold and used to make wines since 1830 as an inexpensive alternative to importing well-known European vinifera grapes, vines, and wines. As it spread westward it was still popular in Virginia up into the late 19th century - but like Missouri died out during prohibition. 

The final wines that the participants sipped were the Horton Vineyards 1995 and 1999 Horton Norton - library wines intended to demonstrate the age ability of Norton wine. The grapes inherent acidity helps elevate the finish even as the wine passed almost three decades in the bottle. In addition the wines show jammy - yet velvety layers - of dark fruit and chocolate. 

Post prohibition, the Virginia wine industry was slow to materialize and one of the pioneers was Dennis Horton. A native of Missouri, he started an office supply business in the metro D.C. region all the while planting a few vines at a small home vineyard in Madison County, Virginia in 1983.  In the late 1980s, Horton and a business partner acquired 55 acres for the beginning of Horton Vineyards. Rhone grape varieties were his favorite options but he was familiar with the Norton grape from growing up in Hermann and knowing the grape's Virginia roots.  He thus contacted Jon Held and obtained a shipment of Norton vines from Stone Hill Winery -- reintroducing the Norton grape to the Commonwealth with their inaugural vintage in 1992. The grape loves the Virginia climate.  And the Horton library wines represent wines made from these Stone Hill cuttings. Today there are over 20 wineries producing a Norton wine in Virginia and the have joined together to form the Norton Network in order to promote the grape. Thanks to Dennis Horton this is possible along with the world's largest grower of Norton - Chrysalis Vineyards.

BevFluence Chicago Speakeasy: Cambio -- A Mexican-styled Tequila

Tequila is one of the only spirits in the world to retain a sense of place through its entire process, it retains its Terroir. Every choice we made with Cambio is to enhance the effect and show the true potential of the spirit.” John des Rosiers - Founder of Cambio Tequila

At the very beginning of John des Rosiers' presentation at the BevFluence Chicago Speakeasy, he mentioned the desire to create a "Mexican-styled Tequila" as a result of conversations with one of his wife's Jalisco cousins pertaining to creating a new tequila brand. This philosophy closely corresponds to the above quote which I obtained while researching the brand before the Speakeasy. 

But what defines a Mexican-styled Tequila and what differentiates it from contemporary and popular tequila brands? This was the unofficial topic of the next 45 minutes and a later Cambio Tequila Dinner where Mr. des Rosiers discussed the rational for starting the brand and the many production steps he choose to come closer to "how tequila was produced back in the day".  These production steps feature a Tahona to crush the agave, fermentation in wooden vats, and distilling using an Alembic copper still. 

As des Rosiers pressed forward in developing this new brand, his cousins introduced him to ZB Distillery, the only operation willing to adopt his innovations and longer production times. The distillery also allowed a separate building to be completely modified to incorporate a design for 100% natural process. He also selected the Ruvalcaba de Arandas family and their Ruvalferti agave estate as the source for the whole Blue Weber, highland agave. In return the Global G.A.P. certified company adjusted to Cambio's unique harvest requirements. 

For modern tequila, the general production methodology is to harvest the piñas and at some point cut them into pieces, and cook using autoclaves (pressure cooker within 6-12 hours) or stone ovens (2-3 days).  Molinos (mechanized shredding mills) or  diffusers extract the aguamiel juice from the softened agave. It is the aguamiel juice that is then fermented -- usually in large stainless steel vats. After fermentation, the "musto muerto" is then distilled maybe in a traditional copper still, maybe a stainless steel version of the Alembic still, but more likely in a large column still - more suited for mass production. 

Cambio returned to a more historic Mexican-styled approach by cooking the piñas the same day they are harvested -- and cooking the Blue Weber whole. This allows the retention of various aromas and flavors that are lost early in the production process in modern processes. Cambio uses a stone oven to cook the whole piñas and allows four days to proceed instead of the standard 2-3 days.  The slower cooking of the agave won't caramelize the sugars as much, so it tends to create a sweeter, smoother spirit with less bitterness in the finish.  After cooking, a traditional Tahona wheel is used to gently squeeze the agave juice from the plant by hand instead of a roller machine or diffuser processing.  Like the slow cooking, the use of a tahona wheel helps retain inherent aromas and flavors. 

While moving to the fermentation process, Cambio continues reverting back to historic techniques. They slow the fermentation time down starting with using cooler deep-well water that is filtered by the volcanic soils. The low temperature fermentation is more reminiscent of wine fermentation and results in a more flavorful spirit with greater texture and complexity. This low fermentation requires a unique set of four types of yeast that can operate at lower temperatures. And most importantly, the fermentation occurs in wooden vats where ZB Distillery allowed Cambio to build temperature controlled tanks around the wooden vats. These vats are made from Tennessee white oak and traditional Mexican oak. The resulting fermentation process takes 14 days with includes 2-days of malolactic fermentation. 

The resulting "musto muerto" is then distilled 12 hours in an Alembic copper still to exactly 50% alcohol. There is no cutting of heads and tails and fats and oils are not filtered. Each run is tested in certified by the required authorities. 

All the Cambio tequilas are then aged for some period and they use 13 barrel types to soften and add complexity and nuance to their spirits. The Blanco is aged for two weeks in used White Burgundy and White Bordeaux wine barrels.  The Reposado is aged 30 days in a similar combination of used white wine barrels and then five additional months in French Oak Chardonnay barrels. And the Anejo is aged on average for 15-24 months blended from three different types of French Oak barrels and finishes. 

Even the labels are made using historical methods, in this case artisan “amate,” an ancient method of creating nonwoven fabric using the barks of indigenous trees that dates back to the Mayas and the Aztecs.

We will be following this post with various tasting reviews and cocktail recipes using Cambio Tequila. 

The Herdade do Esporão's Inaugural "Monte Velho Reserva Red 2022"

Alentejo is a Portuguese wine region that I vow one day to visit. It covers much of Portugal’s southern half, spanning the flatlands below the Tejo River down to Portugal's southern Atlantic Coast. It accounts for 13% of Portugal's area under vine and 18% of wine production. Alentejo incorporates eight sub-viticultural zones (from north to south: Portalegre, Borba, Évora, Redondo, Reguengos, Granja-Amareleja, Vidigueira, & Moura).  The climate is hot and dry with both a Continental and Mediterranean climate with winters exceptionally cold whereas spring and summer are dry and hot. The region experiences high levels of sunshine in the growing season -- over 3,000 hours annually. Wine-searcher.com also shares that the "Alentejo is broadly flat with hilly areas dotted across its zone. Major mountainous or hilly regions across the area include the Serra de São Mamede (1025m) on the border with Spain at the very northeastern end of the area, and the Serra de Portel (421m) and the Serra d’Ossa (649m), both in the central east".

The Herdade do Esporão estate is located in the Reguengos de Monsaraz DOC sub-region which itself is located squarely in central Alentejo. The granite and schist soils and the local climate are particularly favorable to vine-growing and the region is well known for its production of high-quality wines with their own distinctive characteristics (VisitPortugal).  The region provides the estate with two key advantages: access to water and diversity of soils. According to the winery, "Alentejo is a dry region, averaging just 58 cm/23 inches of rainfall per year. The estate sits on a probable north–south fault zone; fault zones coincide with areas blessed with groundwater. This relative abundance of water was decisive to the medieval occupation of the land and building of the defensive Esporão tower.

Soil mapping begun in 2008 by geologist José Borrego established that at least seven different soils exist within the property, with dioritic soils (medium- to coarse-grained igneous rock) found only at the estate. Dioritic soils result in wines wines with lots of aroma, fruit, and acidity. Granite-origin granodiorite soils eventually yield wines with great freshness and minerality. Other soils include mottled schists (the Reserva Red) for grapes with high sugar and phenol levels, and two different versions of sandy clay loam soils are home to some of the white grapes".

The boundaries of the Herdade do Esporão estate were first established in 1267 and have been unaltered since.  In 1973, José Roquette and Joaquim Bandeira bought the property because the Reguengos sub-region "ensures wines that were full-bodied but elegant and both big and seductive, thanks to a mix of very poor, stony soils and a harsh climate".  The first wine was produced in 1985 using the brand name Esporão which coincidently was the Esporão Reserva Red -- which we will be reviewing the 26th vintage. Currently, they have 450 hectares of vines planted with 194 grape varieties, 37 of which are in full production. Four of these grapes are included in the newly debuted Esporão Monte Velho Reserva Red 2022 ($18).

Traditionally, the winery's Monte Velho Red, White, and Rosé line is aged in stainless steel, but the Reserva is treated with eight months in oak.  The wine is composed of Touriga Nacional, Aragonez (Tempranillo), Syrah, and Trincadeira with an average vine age of 18 years. and the grapes were grown on barren granitic schist eroded into clay-like fragments. The granite schist provides structure to the wines, while its clayey texture helps with water retention. The Touriga Nacional offers dark fruit and tannins; the Aragonez, red fruit with earthy, leathery notes; the Syrah floral aromas and red fruit; and the Trincadeira, fruity and floral character. I found this to be a very food friendly wine offering sour cherry and plum flavors in a creamy texture, light tobacco - a solid backbone - and lasting acidity.

Why We are Attending the Eastern Winery Exposition

"EWE coordinates the biggest trade show outside of the West Coast.  This dynamic conference offers industry members to learn from the vendors who often can supply a wide range of practical advice and discuss the latest vineyard and winery equipment. The EWE seminars feature regional winemakers and entrepreneurs who willingly offer their success stories.. And given the neo-prohibition headwinds now facing the industry, the fresh and innovative ideas shared by forward thinking marketers at the License to Steal sessions provide realistic, cutting-edge suggestions on how to navigate the difficult challenges coming our way." -- Donniella Winchell, Executive Director, Ohio Wines

The Eastern Winery Exposition touts itself as the "Largest Production Wine and Grape Trade Show and Conference in the East" and that reason alone, should be incentive for any wine industry professional to pack their bags for Lancaster, PA.  Shame on me for never attending in the past. 

But this year I set March 25-27th aside on my calendar initially just for the multiple networking opportunities available during the three days.  On Tuesday March 25th, there is a two hour Welcome Wine Reception where attendees are able to sample wines from throughout the Eastern region as the greet and meet other professionals. On Wednesday March 26th there is both a Networking Lunch as well as the 13th Annual EWE Industry Celebration Reception & Dinner. Then on the final day, expect expanded exhibit hall hours to converse with exhibiters and attendees.

“The Eastern Winery Exposition provides opportunities for wine industry leaders to share knowledge, experiences, and wines in an engaging environment,” says Devon Perry, Executive Director of the Garden State Wine Growers Association. “The New Jersey wine community is enthusiastically committed to the future of this mission.” -- Devon Perry, Executive Director Garden State Wine Growers Association

If that wasn't enough incentive to attend, the seminar schedule truly is - not only for producers - but also for content creators who need to master some level of industry proficiency in order to produce higher quality material. Tuesday is dedicated to workshops focusing on the TTP, Workplace Safety, Taxes, and Succession Planning. We have already wrote about the numerous instances when the founders of a family enterprise want to retire, but their children have no plans to continue in the industry.  I'm also interested in the Bioprotection Strategies for Juice and Wine workshop where microorganisms could replace various chemical preservatives. 

“The Maryland Wineries Association sponsors the Eastern Winery Exposition each year because it’s a very important opportunity for our wine community to learn, network and share best practices. EWE provides the space for collaboration and the chance to take some time from day to day winery operations to gather with others from the Eastern wine region. Wine is communal, and everyone leaves this conference feeling part of the greater community, encouraged that there is support and appreciation for all of the hard work they do, and then energized to try new things going forward.” -- Janna Howley,  Cultivate & Craft 

Now, Wednesday is the most intensive day of seminars and workshops. It includes the License to Steal Wine Marketing Conference® (LTS) that is a full Marketing track as part of the EWE Conference. The other seminars fall within three other buckets: Enology, Viticulture, and a combination of the two (EV).  The later is represented by Solving a Grape’s Identity: Using DNA or Ampelography? We Say Both! presented by Lucie Morton, Adam McTaggart & Dean Volenberg. This session focuses on Norton and Cynthiana and will try to answer the delicate question,  Are these cultivars unique? Since I am dabbling in oak treatment I will not miss the Enology session: Stavin Barrel Alternatives presented by Megan Hereford, Emily Hodson & Scott Spelbring. Another interesting Enology session is Gamay’s Versatility and Potential by Robert Muse & Christine Vrooman. And on the Viticulture side, I plan on learning about the USDA/NIFA SCRI Planning Project through the Grape & Wine Industry Needs Assessment Results session. 

"To me, the conference has a three part purpose. Firstly, the trade show is worth the day all by itself. But I get a lot out of the conference. A lot our best practices we learned at EWE, vineyard management, winemaking techniques, winemaking materials, processes, etc. And then the final third was not only seeing friends from around the east coast but exchanging information with them in a meaningful way. Who's planting what grapes. Who's using what yeast. What's a new trend that's really moving the needle. You can always do what you are doing better. And have I mentioned the Grand Tasting or the Auction? It's a great event. I have never missed a year except for COVID. Always a valuable event in the eastern winery calendar." -- Carlo DeVito, Author and Interim Winemaker at Unionville Vineyards

The LTS track continues on Thursday and ends with Practical Ideas When Working with Influencers. At BevFluence we have several ideas within that domain.  I highly recommend the EV session on Grapes for a Changing Climate II primarily because it is presented by Dr. Joseph Fiola and always has an interesting set of alternative cultivars that he grows in various test plots - many with just a numeric name. On the Viticulture side take a looks at Grapes for a Changing Climate I where Dana Acimovic & Jeanette Smith evaluated over 50 old and new varieties from around the globe in terms of climate activity. On the Enology side, there are several sessions on white wines such as Sauvignon Blanc, <12% Alcohol or No Alcohol, and Aromatics & Texture.

Let us know if we are overlooking a must see session and we hope to see more content creators in attendance.  Learning about the wine industry is a never-ending process. Cheers.

Visiting Wolf Point Distilling During the BevFluence Chicago Speakeasy

During our Speakeasy events we try to visit local producers at discovered that Wolf Point Distilling was very close to our content house. Fortunately co-owner Victoria Polvino was working the taproom when we arrived, and thus, we received an excellent overview of the distillery and their expressions.  Regarding this portfolio, we immediately noticed the intricate hand drawn artistry of each label which illustrate the famed stories from Chicago history that inspired each bottle. 

It's name derives from the area formed by the confluence of the North, South, & Main branches of the Chicago River which was "central to the early development of Chicago, from its humble beginnings as a settlement in the late 18th century to its incorporation as a city in 1837.  It was home to the city’s first tavern, theater, trans-river bridge, and much more".  

Wolf Point Distilling specializing in small-batch spirits such as small-batch bourbon, rye whiskey, gin, vodka, and specialty infusions.  We tasted through their entire portfolio forming an appreciation for many of the very unique offerings, like the Everleigh Botanical-Infused Vodka. The spirit is named for the Everleigh Club, a renowned high-class brothel in Chicago from 1900 to 1911, and run by the Everleigh sisters.  It uses a vapor infusion distillation method followed by macerating select botanicals. These botanicals are Elderberry, Orange & Lemon Peel, Chamomile Flower, Angelica Root, Mint, Grains of Paradise, Hibiscus, and Caraway. The recommended cocktail fits perfectly within the BevFluence Effervescence Unleashed program. 

Everleigh Cocktail: A cocktail made with Everleigh Vodka includes 2 oz of vodka, 1.5 teaspoons of simple syrup, and 4 oz of Prosecco. Shake the ingredients in a cocktail shaker filled with ice, then strain into a glass and top with Prosecco. Garnish with lemon peel.

On a similar plane, the Florence Field Gin was inspired by the woman (Florence Lathrop Field) responsible for donating the iconic Chicago Bronze Lions and various significant artworks to the Art Institute of Chicago.  This botanical forward gin is made using a plethora of ingredients -- Juniper Berries, Lemongrass, Coriander, Grains of Paradise, Cardamom, Lemon Peel, Angelica Root, Chamomile Flower, Orris Root, Hibiscus. This is a very pleasant sipping gin that would work with any gin based cocktail. 

The Captain Santa Vapor Infused Moonshine falls within the unique category as the moonshine is infused with vapors of the Christmas season (Cinnamon, Orange Peel, Lemon Peel, Hibiscus Flower, and Pink Peppercorn). The spirit was inspired by the story of Captain Santa, a generous and compassionate ship captain who gave away Christmas trees to those in need in the early 1900s before the vessel was destroyed during a storm in 1912.

The distillery offers two other vodka products, the Jackscrew Vodka and O'Leary’s 1871 Cinnamon-Infused Vodka. The former is named after the effort to actually physically lift Chicago's infrastructure 4 to 14 feet higher in order to create new foundations for a city-wide sewer and storm system.  And I'm sure our readers are familiar with the myth(?) of Catherine O’Leary’s cow, Daisy. The Jackscrew is clean with zero burn while the Cinnamon-Infused Vodka provides a little kick from the spice. 

For whiskey fans, we finally move into the barrel program where the Wolf Point Straight Bourbon Whiskey is a four year singe barrel made from a mash bill of 75% corn, 21% rye, and 4% malted barley. At 92 proof, the experience was improved with a drop or two of water which elevates the vanilla nose as well as the nutmeg and other baking spices on the palate.  The Wolf Point Straight Rye Whiskey is a little higher proof and includes 4% malted barley. This expression offers a warm chewy core with slight black pepper on the tail surrounded by a little earthiness, mint, and clove. 

Effervescence Unleashed Cocktail of the Month for February 2025: Sparkling Rosé French 75

The Effervescence Unleashed Cocktail of the Month for February 2025 is the Sparkling Rosé French 75.

We are celebrating both the American Cider Association CiderCon as well as Valentine's Day this month with an ode to rosé cider.

* 2 ounces Gin: Raincity Last Garden Gin
* 1 ounce simple syrup
* 1/2 ounce Lemon juice
* Top with sparkling rosé wine: Snow Capped Cider Sparkling Rosé Cider
* Lemon peel, for garnish (optional)

Raincity is a small distillery located in scenic Squamish, British Columbia. Last Garden Gin is a floral fusion of Elderflower and Osmanthus with the signature spicy flavor of Juniper. With over a dozen botanicals lending their spicy, citrusy, and floral flavors and aromas to this spirit, Last Garden Gin will transport you to a summer garden in full bloom.

Snow Capped Cider family’s orchard legacy spans over a century, with five generations cultivating a tradition of excellence that has grown into businesses like Snow Capped Cider. The cider is crafted at an impressive elevation of 6,130 feet, making it one of the highest-elevation orchards and cideries in the world. The Sparkling Rosé is made from single varietal Pinova apples aged on Malbac wine lees with dried elderberries for 9 months in oak.

The Humboldt Current and Chile’s Coastal (Chardonnay and Pinot Noir) Wines

"Of the great oceanic currents, the Humboldt stands out. It generates one of the richest maritime ecosystems in the world. It’s so large and cold that it affects the coasts of South America from the 50th to the 4th parallels. And, whenever it shifts course the impact on weather patterns is global. So potent is the Humboldt that it’s no wonder that any wines grown on its doorstep are affected accordingly."

This statement was the basis for a virtual tasting of six Chilean coastal Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines presented by Wines of Chile and Joaquin Hidalgo, wine columnist for La Nación,  

During the presentation he informed us that , "due to its scale and length, the Humboldt Current changes the weather around it, creating a cold buffer in nearby air masses and lowering temperatures as it goes. Even in tropical regions, the resulting lack of evaporation, due to the cooler temperatures, makes for a decisive drop in atmospheric humidity. "  How so? "Firstly, it cools the water over the sea, generating a classic thermal inversion in summer, condensing the little humidity generated during the day and, from the early morning right through to midday, creating a thick fog that spreads over the sea and coast. It’s the same kind of mist famously seen in California’s Sonoma Coast and the Santa Lucía Highlands, just on a larger scale. Because this fog also filters the sunlight, grape varieties with short ripening cycles, mainly Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, develop slowly and delicately."

"This combination of cool temperatures and ample sunlight ensures that the wines ripen fully but gradually. While the whites retain sharp acidity and low pH, the fruity aromas tend to be ripe -- apple and pear for Chardonnay with notes of lime and ginger, and the palates are rich in spite of the tart core. For Pinot Noir, the color is slightly more vivid due to the impact of the sunlight, while the crisp aromas of sweet and sour cherry are accompanied by wet earth, a hint of blood, tart acidity and a rich palate."

The Humboldt effect also presents some problems. The closer to the Ocean, the more intense the moderating effect on temperature and fog becomes, thus frost rises as a concern. To alleviate this risk, vineyards are planted facing North to capture as much sunlight as possible.  And since temperatures barely change across variations in latitude, there is a delicate balance between the grapes planted and the appropriate micro-climate. These "pockets"; such as San Anontio,  Lo Zarate, Colliguay, and Isla de Maipo; are where the wines we tasted are grown.

According to Hildago, these pockets are well suited for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Chardonnay delivers green apple and pear, with notes of lime and ginger; flavors are rich, in spite of the tart core. Whereas Pinot Noir offers a slightly more vivid color due to the impact of sunlight. Crisp aromas of sweet and sour cherry are accompanied by wet earth, a hint of blood, tart acidity and a rich palate. In addition, calcareous clay soils in Limarí bring a chalky feel to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as seen in the wines from Miguel Torres, Viña Concha y Toro, and Santa Rita.  On the other hand, abundant granite soils in Chile’s Coastal Range lead to lean, smooth textures, particularly in Pinot Noir. See the TerraNoble and Viña Garcés.

Viña Montes Alpha Chardonnay Chile 2022
Aroma of tropical fruit then candied papaya; toasty, red apple, and vanilla.

Santa Rita Chardonnay Floresta Chile 2021
Yeasty floral; pears and pineapples, saline, good acidity, creamy texture.

Miguel Torres Cordillera Chardonnay Chile 2023
Floral; salinity and acidity - lots of ripe apple and lime - chalky from clay soils.

Viña Garcés Silva Boya Pinot Noir Chile 2020
Raspberries and roses on the nose; red currants (tart) and herbaceous; fresh acidity - light tannins. 

Viña Concha y Toro Amelia Pinot Noir Chile 2022
Nice mouthfeel. Soft red fruit on nose, tea, chalky, some black pepper & saline, lingering finish.

TerraNoble Algarrobo Pinot Noir Chile 2023
Sour cherry puree on nose; continues on palate, wet stone earthiness, structure, acids, lasting finish.

Sipping the Best of DuCard Vineyards

Like several successful Virginia wineries, Ducard Vineyards opened 15 years ago during the ascendence of the Commonwealth's wine industry. Their estate is located in a beautiful valley on the  eastern edge of the Shenandoah National Park in the shadow of Old Rag Mountain and White Oak Canyon.  In the early days Rappahannock Cellars produced award winning wine from their grapes but eventual owner Scott Elliff decided to transition from grape grower to commercial winery. During that he made many wise decisions such as planting grapes suitable for the Virginia climate, starting small when building out the tasting room and production facility, and most importantly, hiring Julien Durantie as winemaker. 

The Ducard Norton was the first of their wine to reach our attention and they planted "America's Grape" based on a recommendation from Dennis Horton. The early versions were very acidic but Julien was able to nurture more fruit and less acidity moving to an open lyre vine training system. The results have been several consecutive years of award winning Norton wine.

They have also innovated and expanded their portfolio in terms of grape varieties and styles. Their red wines run through traditional Bordeaux grapes Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot to several red blends.  One the paler side, the offer a couple Chardonnays, Viognier, Pinot Gris, as well as blends and a couple effervescent wines: the Pet Gnat and XOXO - both based on Viognier.  During my visit Scott curated a flight of four wines he thought best personified DuCard's current lineup.  

2022 TANA Chardonnay ($45)
This is a Burgundy style wine where the Chardonnay grapes were harvested from the Estate's TANA vineyard and aged five months in French oak. The fresh citrus and green apple fruit basks with great acidity and length. No cloying butter or oak character. 

2022 Cabernet Franc Vintner Reserve ($40)
The best fruit from this vintage was sourced from their Whetstone Run vineyard which helps produce layers of dark cherry fruit, some earthiness, and without any sense of methoxypyrazines (aka green pepper). Expect a long, easy finish.  

2021 Triskele ($70) 
This wine is only made during the best of years (five out of fifteen vintages) and apparently 2021 was one such year. The Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Tannat grapes come from their three vineyard sites. The wine shows floral and herbaceous notes then structured layers of dark fruit with approachable tannins.  An excellent wine. 

2021 XOXO Sparkling Viognier  ($50)
This Hugs and Kisses sparkling wine is made from 100% Viognier from the TANA vineyard where the wine is aged two years on its lees. This leads to noticeable yeast, but an elegant display of subtle stone fruit and a lasting finish. 

Effervescence Unleashed: Virginia Sparkling Red Wine

"The overall inspiration for the wine comes from the often asked question, "why not?" This is a popular question here at CV and has led to many different styles of wine we produce. " - Jake Blodinger, winemaker at Chrysalis Vineyards discussing their Buttorfleoge Norton Pet Nat.

Since the inception of the modern Virginia wine industry, both Horton Vineyards and Chrysalis Vineyards have been pioneers in its development. This can be seen by their introducing (or re-introducing) popular grape varieties such as Viognier, Petit Manseng, and Norton. In addition, they have been pioneers in creating different styles of wine - notably - sparkling red wine.

The Chrysalis Vineyards 2019 Buttorfleoge ($28) is a rarity. This is a Norton Pét-Nat, a new use for Virginia's native grape.  In 2023 there were 130 acres of Norton planted in Virginia (10th most abundant in the Commonwealth(1)). The grape is usually seen as a rich and juicy dry wine that needs a few years in the bottle to tame its astringent nature. Yet, its versatility can be seen in the other styles such as a port-styled wine, a semi-dry lighter offering, and in various blends. But this is the first sparkling I've experienced via Pétillant Naturel using 100% whole-clustered pressed Norton wine. Expect the traditional dark purple color of the Norton but there is an unexpected strong floral note followed by blackberry bubbles.

According to Jake Blodinger, winemaker at Chrysalis Vineyards, "using the methode ancestrale technique ‘rediscovered’ in the Loire in the 1990s, this 100% whole-clustered pressed Norton wine is produced using only the natural microflora found at Locksley Estate. This wine is fermented in tank until there is only a small amount of sugar left. At this point, the wine is bottled and laid down to let the fermentation finish. The result is a true, terroir-driven pétillant-naturel (or Pét Nat), and an exciting addition to the Norton lineup here at Chrysalis Vineyards". 

The Horton Vineyards NV Knots & Shuttles ($24.95) is a another red sparkling wine, this one made from 100% Tannat. Another rarity on many levels.  First, Tannat is the 14th most widely planted grape variety in the Commonwealth with only 78 acres planted. For perspective, Cabernet Franc is the most widely planted grape with 661 acres (1).  Second, Virginia Tannat is generally bottled in Bordeaux-styled blends or as a single varietal wine depending on its tannic structure and juiciness. But as a sparkling wine?  This has to be a first. The wine starts with a black fruit intensity but yields to more finesse once the effervescence starts its escape. 

(1) 2023 Virginia Wine 2023 Commercial Wine Grape Report