Gambero Rosso's Vini D’Italia 2025 Roadshow

On April 30th, Gambero Rosso, Italy's premier food and wine media group, returned to Washington DC celebrating the Vini D’Italia 2025 guidebook! The event featured a walk around tasting of hundreds of Italy’s top Italian wines representing a fraction of the 2,600 wineries and more than 25,000 wines reviewed by the guidebook's experts. As part of the event, Gambero Rosso also hosted a Wines of Abruzzo masterclass in partnership with wines of Consorzio Tutela Vini D'Abruzzo and led by Marco Sabellico, the Editor-In-Chief of the Vini D’Italia 2025 guide.

The masterclass focused on Pecorino within several different regulatory zones: IGT Pecorino, Abruzzo DOC Pecorino, Colline Pescaresi, and the Tullum DOCG. The wines shared a persistent floral character, and fabulous acidity, while alternating between citrus and tropical fruits. My favorites of the nine featured were the Cascina Del Colle Terre Di Chieti Abruzzo DOC Pecorino Superiore Aimè 2023 and the Cantina Tollo Feudo Antico Pecorino Tullum DOCG Biologico Fermentazoine Spontanea 2023.  The latter is comprised of 100% organically grown Pecorino that was fermented naturally in cement tanks and then rested on its lees for six months.  This is a wonderful wine, golden delicious apples with a true sense of herbaciousness lifted by persistent acidity.  The Aimè is farmed organically and is profoundly more fruit forward with strong ripe peaches and tropical notes. That profile is balanced by lively minerality. Two fantastic wines. 

Moving into the Embassy's atrium and the walkaround tasting I focused on two regions: Puglia and Lazio. I started with Amastuola, a wine resort and farm located just north of Taranto where they organically farm ten grape varieties. By design, the 100 hectare estate "brings together the two concepts of functionality and aesthetics. The rows of vines were planted on the basis of the design conceived by the great landscape designer Fernando Caruncho. The vine spaliers draw harmonious parallel waves that follow each other for about 3 km. " Their IGP Puglia Bialento di Amastuola 2024 is a blend of Malvasia and Fiano and provides fresh pears, white grapefruit, and herbaceous notes. The IGP Puglia Primitivo di Amastuola 2021 is full bodied dark fruit with layers of light spices and juicy tannins.  Then there's  Negroamaro - a favorite Puglia grape - and their IGP Puglia Negroamaro di Amastuola 2021 shows luscious soft fruit  and a juicy spiced finish. 

Masca del Tacco is located in the cultural heart of central-northern Salento with 200 hectares of vines within a triangle of Brindisi, Taranto and Lecce. They farm Negroamaro, Primitivo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Fiano, and the Brindisi based Masseria Paticchi vineyard contains the regal Susumaniello grape. They poured a very delicious and surprisingly mineral laden Susumaniello Rosato 2024 and well as the full bodied Susumaniello 2023 with its layers of fresh and inviting fruit.  

From Lazio and just southeast of Rome, Colle di Maggio introduced us to the indigenous Bombino Blanco grape which they grow in volcanic soils along with Fiano, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot. These vines are over 50 years old, are planted 150-200 meters above sea level, and benefit from their proximity to the Tyrrhenian Sea. Bombino Blanca is a late ripening variety and disease tolerant grape primarily used in blends and the Sirio Lazio Bianco IGP is a delicious combination of Chardonnay and Bombino. They release another excellent Chardonnay blend in the Lunapigra Lazio Bianco IGP -- this time paired with Fiano. 

Located a little closer to the sea, Casale del Giglio was a most pleasant surprise. The winery started as a small family venture in 1967 then expanded in 1985 with the planting of an experimental vineyard of 60 different vines. This translates today to a large portfolio of a dozen flagship grape varieties, with two very intriguing options: Viognier and Bellone. The Lazio IGP Blanco Viognier is a very rare sighting of this Rhone grape in the Italian landscape and provides full fruit - with layers of peaches and apricots. The Lazio IGP Blanco Bellone shows that this ancient (once sited by Pliny the Elder) and drought resistant grape thrives in the sandy soils close to the sea. The wine shows tropical fruit and fresh acidity that is extremely quaffable. This is one to seek. 

Grape Spotlight: Castilla y León D.O. Bierzo Mencia

Mencia is to D.O. Bierzo what the Prieto Picudo and Albarin grapes are to D.O. León. A subregion within Castilla y León primarily dedicated to an historic and signature grape. 

Castilla y León is located in northwestern Spain between Galicia & Portugal and Rioja and is that country's largest wine-producing region -- encompassing 6% of Spain's total production. It is also the 4th largest Spanish grape growing region and home to over 500 wineries. The region contains 14 Designations of Origin (D.O.), four Protected Designations of Origin, and the Vino de la Terra de Castilla y León Protected Geographical Indication (I.G.P.). Castilla y León came into administrative existence in 1983, when the two historical provinces of León and Castilla la Vieja were unified.

According to wine-searcher.com, "Castilla y León's rich cultural history dates back more than two thousand years, as evidenced by its six Unesco world heritage sites. These include the medieval city walls of Avila, the Roman Aqueduct in Segovia, and Atapuerca, an archaeological site rich in Bronze Age and Stone Age artifacts. It may be that wine production in the region pre-dates even the Roman occupation, which began in the 1st Century BC.

In terms of climate, Castilla y León has a remarkably strong continental feel, given how close it comes to the Atlantic Ocean. Hot, dry summers here are followed by sharp, cold winters, when temperatures regularly drop well below freezing. Diurnal temperature shifts are equally pronounced, and play a vital part in the local wine styles. Cool nights refresh the vineyards after long, hot days. The area is completely shielded from the  maritime influence of the Bay of Biscay by the Cordillera Cantábrica mountain range. On the other side of these mountains lie the Asturias, Cantabria and Pais Vasco regions. Their cool, fresh climates and fertile hills are in stark contrast to the warm, dry tablelands of Castilla y León.

Wedged between the Cordillera Cantábrica and the Sistema Central mountains, the region occupies a vast plateau about 200km (125 miles) across and between 700 and 1000 meters (2,300ft - 3,300ft) above sea level. Given this location and the low rainfall, soils here are typically thin and poor. They do become richer in minerals and clays, however, near the region's rivers, of which there are many.

D.O. Bierzo lies in the far northwest of Castilla y Leon close to the region's borders with Galicia.  The viticultural area consists of two parts: Bierzo Alto (high Bierzo), a mineral-rich and mountainous terrain where terraced vineyards are sewn into the slopes, and Bierzo Bajo (low Bierzo), a wide and verdant plain. Bierzo's proximity to the Atlantic Ocean has a profound effect on its overall climate, with average temperatures during the growing season much cooler than in Castilla y Leon's more inland areas, making it rather mild. Nevertheless, the Cordillera Cantábrica mountain range in the north provides the vineyards with adequate shelter. This ensures that the Mencia grapes achieve optimum ripeness. 

Bierzo's soil is different from that found in other parts of Castilla y Leon in that it contains a predominance of slate and granite. This favors the Mencia vines and helps them to produce wines with a distinct mineral character. The wines tend to be lighter in terms of alcohol and more refreshing than those from other parts of Castilla y León.

Mencia is a thick-skinned, violet-blue grape that was once thought to be related to Cabernet Franc. Modern DNA testing has disproved this theory, however, but has uncovered that it is genetically identical to Portugal's Jaen." It's its origin Bierzo or Dão?

"Mencia wines tend to exhibit earthy, vegetal characters with berry nuances and stony minerality. They have a bright complexion with a vivid maroon color, relatively fresh acidity and tannins. The fruit flavors can range from red to black fruits, often with a herbal dimension of mint or thyme. The variety can be challenging in the vineyard, and has a tendency towards low yields, making it a challenging prospect for growers and winemakers. It is susceptible to botrytis and mildew, and can lose its acidity quickly if not harvested promptly. Mencia's high alcohol and moderate acidity provide something of a juggling act at harvest and in the winery. Oak is used sparingly, as it can overwhelm Mencia's rather delicate flavor profile."

At the Castilla y León Roadshow, I sampled several Mencia wines from two producers who focus almost exclusively on this grape. Elva Garcia Amigo was onsite representing her winery -- Aníbal de Otero (Daughter of Anibal) -- named in honor of her father.  Aníbal and his father tended their Mencia vines which  are now more than 100 years old. The process is overseen by oenologist José Hidalgo where the grapes are hand harvested in small batches, fermented in stainless steel and aged at various lengths in French oak.  In the vineyard they practice sustainable practices where aromatic plants, wild oregano, thyme, and chamomile grow wild as cover crops. 

Anibal de Otero Mencía, D.O. Bierzo 2022 
Made exclusively with Mencía grapes from bush-ripened vines with an average age of over 90 years. Located near the village of Otero de Toral, on a steep, high altitude of 500-600 meters with clay, sand, slate, and pebbles. The grapes are naturally fermented in stainless steel tanks. The wine is aged three months in used 225-liter French oak barrels, then 8-10 months in stainless steel tanks before bottling, and bottle ageing for at least 6 months.  This is a fresh and pleasant Mencia with abundant red fruit and juicy acidity. 

Anibal de Otero Villa, D.O. Bierzo 2018
The grapes are from the same 90+ year old vines as the Anibal de Otero Mencía but the best grapes are separated and used for the Villa. Similar fermentation process, but longer aging with six months in used 225-liter French oak barrels and at least 18 months in the bottle. More velvety texture surrounds the red fruit and balanced tannins leading to bright acids. 

Anibal de Otero Los Fornos, D.O. Bierzo 2016
The grapes are harvested from very small plots in the exclusive Los Fornos area. The vineyard is south-facing, on a slope overlooking the valley where the Burbia and Cúa rivers meet the Sil where the soils are dominated by limestone and slate.  The wine follows a similar fermentation process but the aging is extensive. It involves 18 months in new and used 225-liter French oak barrels then bottle aged for at least 36 months. This a complex and wonderful wine - darker fruit, more approachable tannins, and tasty earthiness. 

Cantariña Vinos de Familia is another small winery started by five siblings cultivating 13 Ha of 100 year old family vineyards divided among three different sites in their Villafranca del Bierzo hometown.  The first is Viña de Los Pinos, one of the most iconic and photographed vineyards in Bierzo. It sits by the Camino de la Virgen, a narrow dirt path transited by thousands of Pilgrims each year on their way to Santiago de Compostela. The second and older site is Valdeobispo and the third and newest site is Cotelo, where parts had been abandoned for 20 years. Valdeobispo was first planted in 1910 and considered one of the grand crús in Bierzo. The soils are clay and sand with limestone and rolling stones. 

Cantariña Villafranca, D.O. Bierzo 2022
This wine is practically 100% Mencia with trace amounts of Palomino, Doña Blanca and Godello in a field blend from the  Viña de Los Pinos and Valdeobispo sites. The grapes are naturally fermented in 5000 liter oak vats with partial use of whole cluster.  The wine is then aged in oak vats and used 225 and 500 liter French oak barrels. Fresh red fruit characterizes this wine with subtle spice and earthiness. 

Cantariña Valdeobispo, D.O. Bierzo 2021
This is 100% Mencia from the the iconic and organic Valdeobispo site. The grapes are fermented in an 50 HL oak vat, whole clustered, the aged 12 months in used 225 and 500 liter French oak casks. This wine has an astonishing vibrant mouthfeel, lively tannins and acidity distributing velvety dark fruit most notably blackberries.

Effervescence Unleashed: What is Champagne?

Champagne is a sparkling wine that is exclusively produced in the Appellation d’Origine Controlee area of Champagne, France and made using the traditional method known as the Méthode Champenoise. This method involves a secondary fermentation in the bottle, which creates the bubbles that are characteristic of Champagne. While the term "Champagne" is often used generically to describe sparkling wines, legally and technically, only those produced in this specific region under strict guidelines can bear the name. In short, Champagne is more than just sparkling wine—it's a protected cultural and agricultural product that reflects the tradition and terroir of its region.

Origin and Terroir

The Champagne region, located about 100 miles northeast of Paris, has a cool climate and chalky soils that are ideal for growing grapes with high acidity—a key trait for sparkling wines.  In this kind of cool climate, the growing season is rarely warm enough to ripen grapes to the levels required for standard winemaking.  The landscape that earned Champagne its name (it roughly translates as "open countryside") suggests very gently over the white, calcareous soils of the Paris Basin. 

This famous chalk is distinct from the limestone soils of other French wine regions, being much finer-grained and more porous. This looser structure means that its mineral content is more readily absorbed by the vine roots, and it also provides excellent drainage – avoiding the risks of waterlogging. A further benefit is that this permeability allows access to the water resources far below, promoting strong root development and ensuring a continuous water supply.

The Champagne wine region is divided into five sub-regions: Montagne de Reims, Vallée de la Marne, Côte des Blancs, Côte de Sézanne, and Côte des Bar.

1. Montagne de Reims: Known for its chalky limestone soil and home to Reims and Epernay, it is the largest sub-region with the most Grand Cru villages.
2. Vallée de la Marne: Located between the Marne River and the Côte des Blancs, it is the second-largest sub-region.
3. Côte des Blancs: Specializes in white grapes and is known for its chalky-limestone soils.
4. Côte de Sézanne: A smaller sub-region known for its diversity of soil types.
5. Côte des Bar (Aube): The southernmost sub-region, it is known for its red and rosé Champagnes.

Grape Varieties

Champagne is typically made from three primary grape varieties:

• Chardonnay 
• Pinot Noir 
• Pinot Meunier 

These grapes may be used alone or blended in various proportions to create different styles and flavor profiles.

Production Method

Champagne is made using the Méthode Champenoise, or traditional method, which involves a second fermentation in the bottle. This process creates the fine bubbles that characterize Champagne. The steps include:

1. Primary Fermentation – Refers to the initial fermentation process where grape juice is transformed into a still wine. During this stage, yeast converts the natural sugars in the grape juice into alcohol and carbon dioxide, resulting in a dry wine with high acidity. This fermentation can take place in various containers, such as stainless steel tanks or oak barrels, though stainless steel is more commonly used.
   
   
2. Blending – The blending process aims for consistency for non-vintage Champagne by combining wines from different grape varieties and different vineyard plots, along with reserve wines from previous years. Non-vintage Champagne typically blends wines from three to five different vintages.
   
   
3. Second Fermentation – A liqueur de tirage (wine, sugar, and yeast) is added to the wine before bottling. The amount of sugar in the liqueur de tirage determines the pressure of carbonation in the bottle.
   
   
4. Aging on Lees – Once the yeast have finished converting the sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide, they die and become lees. The lees remain in contact with the wine, imbuing it with autolytic aromas (or aromas from lees-aging), which add layers of complexity.
   
   
5. Riddling and Disgorgement – In order to ensure the clarity and quality of the Champagne, the lees must be removed. The bottles are tilted at an angle downward so that the lees settle into bottle's neck. The bottles are occasionally turned or riddled so that the sediment does not remain on one side of the bottle. The sediment is then removed through disgorgement where the bottle's neck is frozen and when the temporary cap is removed, the pressure in the bottle forces the sediment out.
   
   
6. Dosage – Before final corking, a small amount of sugar wine(liqueur d’expedition) is added to balance the naturally high acidity of the wine and determine its sweetness level. 

Styles of Champagne

• Brut Nature – Also known as Zero Dosage, is a type of Champagne with a very low sugar content, typically between 0 and 3 grams per liter. This designation allows the true flavors of the grapes and the terroir to be fully expressed, as no additional sugar is added after the second fermentation. The term "Brut Nature" comes from the fact that the only sugar present is the natural sugar in the grapes.
  
  
• Brut – The most common style, Brut Champagne has a sugar content typically less than 12 grams per liter. The term "Brut" originated in the early 19th century when Champagne producers began experimenting with lower sugar levels in their wines. 
  
  
• Extra Dry – Refers to a champagne that is slightly sweet rather than dry. It has a sugar content ranging from 12 to 17 grams per liter.
  
  
• Demi-Sec – A sweet style of Champagne that contains between 32 and 50 grams of sugar per liter, often paired with desserts.
  
  
• Rosé Champagne – The pink color of Champagne Rosé is achieved through specific winemaking techniques involving red grapes, such as the blending method (assemblage) and the saignée method.  The blending method involves adding a small amount of red wine to the base white wine before the second fermentation, while the saignée method involves a short maceration of red grapes to extract color and aromas.  Champagne Rosé has a history dating back to the 17th century.
  
  
• Blanc de Blancs – Blanc de Blancs is a term used for Champagne made exclusively from white grape varieties, typically Chardonnay. The name translates to "white from whites" in French, indicating that the wine is made solely from white grapes.  In the Champagne region, Blanc de Blancs are mainly produced in the Côte des Blancs area, known for its chalky terroir which is ideal for growing Chardonnay.
  
  
• Blanc de Noirs – Blanc de Noirs is a term used for white Champagne made from the juice of black-skinned grapes, such as Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier. The name literally means "white from blacks" in French, indicating that the wine is produced from dark-skinned grapes. During the winemaking process, the contact between the juice and the skins is minimized to prevent the juice from taking on color from the skins, resulting in a white wine despite the use of red grapes.

Learn more about the BevFluence Effervescence Unleashed campaign here. 

Grape Spotlight: Abruzzo's Tullum DOCG Pecorino

The Tullum DOCG is one of Italy's smallest and newest DOCGs -- becoming that country's 75th DOCG in 2019.  The DOCG is confined to the Tollo municipality, in the province of Chieti, in Abruzzo. Tullum was also the first local DOP (Protected Denomination of Origin) in Abruzzo -- created in 2008.  The Tullum DOCG is also unique in that it involves only three wine producers (Feudo Antico CTSCA, Vigneti Radica, and Cantina Coltivatori Diretti Tollo CCDD) and only 18 hectares (44.5 acres) of vines. The Tullum vineyards are located a few kilometers inland from the Adriatic, about halfway up the coast of Abruzzo. The DOCG zone is an area of rolling green hills and forested ridges leading down to the sea. The primary grape varieties permitted are Montepulciano, Passerina, or Pecorino. To learn more about the Pecorino gape, please see our previous Grape Spotlight posts. 

According to the Consortium, "the Controlled and Guaranteed Designation of Origin 'Terre Tollesi' or 'Tullum' is only granted to wines meeting the conditions and requirements regulated by law. Regulations sets out the details of the winemaking and labelling standards that include a low-yield production, the exclusive use of native vine varieties, and cellar practices respectful of the quality of the product. Tullum introduces for the first time the concept of single vineyards cru. Regulations identify which vine varieties are allowed on the specific single plot. Grapes, with the exception of vineyards located at an altitude of less than 80 m above sea level, must be harvested, vinified, and bottled within the same production area. The planting density must not be lower than 1.600 plants per hectare for the pergola abruzzese system, and lower than 4.000 plants per hectare for vine rows. "

On April 30th, Gambero Rosso, Italy's premier food and wine media group, returned to Washington DC celebrating the Vini D’Italia 2025 guidebook! The event featured a walk around tasting of hundreds of Italy’s top Italian wines representing a fraction of the 2,600 wineries and more than 25,000 wines reviewed by the guidebook's experts. As part of the event, Gambero Rosso also hosted a Wines of Abruzzo masterclass in partnership with wines of Consorzio Tutela Vini D'Abruzzo and led by Marco Sabellico, the Editor-In-Chief of the Vini D’Italia 2025 guide. 

One of the nine wines presented in the masterclass was the Feudo Antico Pecorino Tullum DOCG Biologico Fermentazoine Spontanea 2023.  As it's name suggests this 100% organically grown Pecorino was fermented naturally in cement tanks and then rested on its lees for six months.  This is a wonderful wine, golden delicious apples with a true sense of herbaciousness lifted by persistent acidity,  

Grape Spotlight: Virginia Gamay Through the EWE25

Gamay (Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc) is most famous for producing the fresh, red wines of Beaujolais. It is also grown in other parts of France (Maconnais, Loire region, and Savoie), in western Switzerland, and in the new world: Oregon, Washington, Canada, and more recently: the Commonwealth of Virginia.  Gamay grown in Virginia was a topic at the 2025 Eastern Winery Exposition through a session titled Gamay’s Versatility and Potential with Robert Muse (Muse Vineyards) & Christine Vrooman (Ankida Ridge Vineyards).

There is documented evidence that Gamay Noir has been planted in the Burgundy region since the 14th century. In 1395, the Duke of Burgundy, Philippe the Bold, banned the cultivation of Gamay in Burgundy because he felt it was inferior to Pinot Noir. Perhaps because DNA analysis shows that Gamay is an offspring of Pinot Noir and a white grape called Gouais Blanc. It was easier to grow than Pinot Noir and delivered larger yields, so local farmers preferred Gamay over Pinot Noir -- especially in Beaujolais.

                              Carbonic Maceration

Grapes are whole-bunch fermented in a sealed container which has been flushed with carbon dioxide, creating an anaerobic (oxygen-free) environment. Fermentation begins inside the still-whole berries, creating aromatic flavor compounds (phenols) not found in conventional fermentations. These compounds are responsible for the 'banana' and 'bubblegum' aromas associated with carbonically macerated wines. The technique produces wines which are fruitier and less tannic than those made from crushed grapes. Genuine, pure carbonic maceration is very hard to achieve, because the grapes at the bottom of the container typically split under the weight of the fruit above.

In the Shenandoah Valley, Robert Muse first planted Gamay in 2007 (most likely the first in Virginia)  and it has accepted the cold temperatures. The vines are planted at 750-1,000 feet elevation in soil types ranging from light loam to sandstone and alluvial deposits. Muse Vineyards uses carbonic maceration and after the internal fermentation the grapes are crushed and traditional fermentation occurs in stainless steel. The wine rests in these tanks for a year before bottling.  After bottling young, the wine is light bodied with low tannins; lively, fruity, and fresh aromatics. We have travelled to Woodstock on many occasions to enjoy this wine. The Gold medal it was recently awarded at the  2024 Virginia Governor's Cup is well deserved.

 

Moving south into the still higher Blue Ridge Mountains at Ankida Ridge Vineyards, the Vroomans decided to plant a test plot of Gamay in 2017 after several very successful years growing Pinot Noir.  They planted the 300 vines at 1,800 feet elevation in granite soils and learned that it out produces its Pinot harvest basically 3-1. This on top of dropping 1/3 of the Gamay berries. The Gamay also has a higher pulp to skin ratio leading to less tannin and color.  In 2023 they started vinifying the Gamay using partial carbonic maceration and the wine is only available by keg in the Ankida Ridge tasting room. However, we sipped a sample at the EWE session and it is light and lively, fresh fruit and abundant acidity. 

Effervescence Unleashed Cocktail of the Month for May 2025: The Sparkling Tequila

The Effervescence Unleashed Cocktail of the Month for May 2025 is the Sparkling Tequila. Simply add tequila, lime juice, and mead (or simple syrup) to a shaker. Shake for 10-20 seconds and top with sparkling wine.

Ingredients

• 2 oz Cambio Tequila
• .5 oz lime juice
• .5 oz Clear Skies Meadery Friending Fenrir
• Ernest Rapeneau Champagne

Cambio is a self-described Mexican-styled Tequila: Tequila is one of the only spirits in the world to retain a sense of place through its entire process, it retains its Terroir. Every choice we made with Cambio is to enhance the effect and show the true potential of the spirit.” John des Rosiers – Founder of Cambio Tequila. Clear Skies Meadery is located in Rockville Maryland and produces a range of meads, cysers, and melomels. The Friending Fenrir is their flagship traditional dry mead is a bright and medium-bodied, this mead from orange blossom honey has notes of peach, apricot, and melon and a crisp, citrusy finish. The Ernest Rapeneau Champagne is a blend of 45% Pinot Noir, 35% Meunier and 20% Chardonnay. It is produced in Epernay, the capitol of the Champagne region and was founded in 1901 by the head of the family, Ernest Louis Rapeneau. The family-run Champagne House is one of the last of its’ kind, operating on such a large scale, handing down the family expertise more than five generations. The House sources from 420 family grown and managed acres of estate vineyards. Grapes are carefully selected in order to craft the perfect blend. Each champagne emulates heritage of inimitable style created to delight and make those great occasions very special.

Grape Spotlight: Albarin Blanco from D.O. León & I.G.P. Castilla y León

At a recent Castilla y León Roadshow event, I saw Albarin Blanco on the tasting sheet for Leyenda Del Páramo and thought "Nice, Albariño has a synonym in Castilla y León". Was I wrong. In reality, Albarin Blanco is a rare light-skinned grape variety found only in northwestern Spain --  Castilla y León, Asturias and even Galicia. Wine-searcher.com provides descriptors where "the aroma profile of Albarín Blanco wines falls somewhere between that of its cousin Albariño and that of Gewürztraminer. Tasting notes often include references to ripe limes, lychee, mint, fig and orange." 

Castilla y León is located in northwestern Spain between Galicia & Portugal and Rioja and is that country's largest wine-producing region -- encompassing 6% of Spain's total production. It is also the 4th largest Spanish grape growing region and home to over 500 wineries. The region contains 14 Designations of Origin (D.O.), four Protected Designations of Origin, and the Vino de la Terra de Castilla y León Protected Geographical Indication (I.G.P.). Castilla y León came into administrative existence in 1983, when the two historical provinces of León and Castilla la Vieja were unified.

According to wine-searcher.com, "Castilla y León's rich cultural history dates back more than two thousand years, as evidenced by its six Unesco world heritage sites. These include the medieval city walls of Avila, the Roman Aqueduct in Segovia, and Atapuerca, an archaeological site rich in Bronze Age and Stone Age artifacts. It may be that wine production in the region pre-dates even the Roman occupation, which began in the 1st Century BC.

In terms of climate, Castilla y León has a remarkably strong continental feel, given how close it comes to the Atlantic Ocean. Hot, dry summers here are followed by sharp, cold winters, when temperatures regularly drop well below freezing. Diurnal temperature shifts are equally pronounced, and play a vital part in the local wine styles. Cool nights refresh the vineyards after long, hot days. The area is completely shielded from the  maritime influence of the Bay of Biscay by the Cordillera Cantábrica mountain range. On the other side of these mountains lie the Asturias, Cantabria and Pais Vasco regions. Their cool, fresh climates and fertile hills are in stark contrast to the warm, dry tablelands of Castilla y León.

Wedged between the Cordillera Cantábrica and the Sistema Central mountains, the region occupies a vast plateau about 200km (125 miles) across and between 700 and 1000 meters (2,300ft - 3,300ft) above sea level. Given this location and the low rainfall, soils here are typically thin and poor. They do become richer in minerals and clays, however, near the region's rivers, of which there are many.

León (known until 2019 as Tierra de León) is a comparatively new D.O .wine region in northwestern Spain. The D.O. title covers over 3,000 square kilometers of gently undulating, fertile plateau just south of the eponymous city of León, below the Asturian mountains that line the northern border of the Castilla y León province."

At the Castilla y León Roadshow, I was able to sample one D.O. León Albarin wine from Bodegas Belote and one I.G.P. Castilla y León from Leyenda Del Páramo.

Bodegas Belote's goal is to restore rural heritage and preserve cultural memory which includes restoring winemaking in underground cellars with minimal intervention.  According to the winery, "Caves are an inherent part of traditional architecture in Roales de Campos. Wineries dug in the slopes with a small slope where for more than 500 years the wines were made in a stable environment and at temperature constant throughout the year". The Belote D.O. León 2020 Albarin was crafted from vines planted between 2002 and 2006 in clay loam soil at 900 meters (2,953 ft.) above sea level. The wine was naturally fermented in clay vats and then rested on its lees for three-four months in the same vats. The wine had the expected weightiness with lovely floral and spice notes interspersed with deep creamy citrus. 

Leyenda del Páramo was launched in 2010 to focus specifically on Prieto Picudo and a future Grape Spotlight topic, Albarin. One of the founding partners, Pedro González Mittelbrunn, is a defender of the Prieto Picudo within the appellation of origin. The Paramo region is located in southern León and a pertinent feature is the cave system and underground cellars mentioned above. "Inside these caves, with the low temperatures of the subsoil, an ideal micro-climate is formed for the production of the famous Prieto Picudo wines."  Their vineyards are located in a landscape called "El Páramo", located in the northern section of the Duero river basin and, like Belote, at 900 meters. They are flat, poor soils with a large amount of boulders, old fluvial terraces of the Esla and Bernesga rivers.  

As I mentioned above, the El Aprendiz I.G.P. Castilla y León Blanco 2024 (100% Albarin Blanco) was the first wine I tasted and assumed to be Albariño.   And even its profile reminded me of the Galician grape with strong floral and tropical notes and abundant acidity. More herbaceous than saline. The grapes are sourced from organic vineyards in the southern area of the province of León. The twenty+ year old vines grow in poor sandy loam texture soils and experience hot and dry summers. Cool nights help retain that acidity. A fantastic wine. 

Domaine Bousquet, GAIA, and Regenerative Farming

"Regenerative organic agriculture is a collection of practices that focus on regenerating soil health and the full farm ecosystem. In practice, regenerative organic agriculture can look like cover cropping, crop rotation, low- to no-till, compost, and zero use of persistent chemical pesticides and fertilizers. Layered into these practices, depending on a farm’s needs, could be the addition of perennials, development of pollinator and wildlife habitats, incorporation of agroforestry systems, vegetative barriers, and other regenerative practices that are shown to contribute to the development of soil organic matter."

Regenerative Farming is a contemporary topic where and increasing number of agriculture entities are following these practices. Domaine Bousquet was the first wine estate out of the United States (4th overall) to achieve Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC)™ status. Their vineyards (first planted in 1997-98) are situated high above the clouds at 4,000 feet in Gualtallary in Mendoza’s Uco Valley. This dry environment definitely helped achieve many aspects of this status, but they also had to implicitly institute policies and procedures to "rehabilitate soil, respect animal welfare, and improve the lives of farmers and farm workers".

The first tenant of regenerative farming is No-Till Farming. This method offers a range of benefits that can improve soil health, increase crop yields, reduce environmental impacts, and save farmers money.  No-till farming educes soil erosion, preserves soil structure, increases soil organic matter, and reduces soil compaction, leading to better soil biological activity and improved soil health. Fields managed using no-till farming for multiple years have a higher water-holding capacity. And farmers benefit from reduces fuel and labor costs. 

Grapes for the GAIA label have always been grown organically and the "Greek goddess of the earth, has been the Bousquet family’s inspiration since founding our winery 1997".  The grapes for this brand come from the estate vineyards in Tupungato, Alto Gualtallary -- located at the foothills of the Andes at 4,000 ft. altitude. This location provides intense sun exposure and huge shifts in day-to-night temperatures combine to both mature the grapes and retain acidity.  The Gaia Organic Pinot Noir Rosé exudes red berries both on the nose and its creamy palate. Expect racy acidity for a refreshing pale rosé.

The next tenant of regenerative farming is Biodiversity through at least four plant groups.  This process increases pollinator populations by providing diverse flower-rich habitats and reduced pesticide use support pollinators like bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. It enhances ecosystem services so that soil biota, decomposers, and predators work together to regulate pests and diseases, reducing the need for chemical controls. Biodiversity improves habitat connectivity as regenerative farms with diverse habitats and corridors can support wider species distributions and population growth. And is sequesters carbon as healthy soils and diverse ecosystems help sequester carbon, mitigating climate change and its impacts on biodiversity.

The Gaia Organic Malbec 2022 spends between eight and ten months in French oak providing complimentary vanilla tannins to the juicy ripe blackberry notes. This is an extremely approachable wine with a touch of spice to liven the glass.

The third tenant of regenerative farming is planting Cover Crops that become layers of armor by protecting the soil from sunlight and maintains moisture. Regenerative farming and cover crops are intertwined concepts that promote soil health, biodiversity, and ecosystem services. Regenerative agriculture focuses on enhancing natural processes to improve soil fertility, structure, and overall ecosystem function. Cover crops play a vital role in this approach, serving as a bridge between cash crops and soil regeneration.'

The fourth tenant of regenerative farming is incorporating Animals as a key component to achieve the regenerative goals. This includes grazing management emphasizing rotational grazing, where animals are moved to different pastures to mimic natural grazing patterns. This approach promotes soil health, increases biodiversity, and sequesters carbon.  Manure is used as a natural fertilizer, reducing the need for synthetic fertilizers and minimizing carbon emissions associated with their production and transportation. Animals like chickens, ducks, and geese can be used as natural pest managers, reducing the need for pesticides and promoting soil health. Holistic approach: Regenerative farming recognizes the interconnectedness of soil, plants, animals, and ecosystem services. By incorporating animals into the farming system, farmers can create a more resilient and diverse ecosystem.

Like the Malbec, the Gaia Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ages between eight and ten months in French oak. In contrast, there is more intense dark cherry notes with saline flowing through the soft finish. 

The fifth and final tenant of regenerative farming is instituting Labor Practices that ensure sufficient wages and worker safety. Regenerative farmers prioritize fair labor practices, ensuring decent working conditions, safe working environments, and equitable compensation for farmworkers. Regenerative agriculture values the dignity and well-being of farmers and farmworkers, recognizing their importance in maintaining healthy ecosystems and producing nutritious food. Regenerative farms strive to provide comfortable and safe working conditions, including adequate shade, ventilation, and access to clean water and sanitation facilities. Regenerative farmers avoid using synthetic pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers, reducing exposure risks for farmworkers and promoting a healthier environment. Regenerative agriculture often involves community-based approaches, fostering relationships between farmers, farmworkers, and local communities to promote social and environmental sustainability. Regenerative farmers invest in training and capacity-building programs for farmworkers, enhancing their skills and knowledge in sustainable agriculture practices. Regenerative practices like agroforestry, cover cropping, and crop rotation can reduce labor requirements, improving working conditions and reducing the risk of labor exploitation. Regenerative farmers prioritize continuous learning and improvement, adapting to changing environmental and social conditions while refining their labor practices to ensure long-term sustainability.

Effervescence Unleashed: What is Prosecco?

Part of the Effervescence Unleashed program is to highlight the various sparkling wine regions and methods used throughout the world. Prosecco is a popular but commonly misunderstood word. Is it a region, a wine, or a grape variety? Before 2009 this term described all three. Pretty confusing, right? Thus, in 2009 several changes were made. First, the Prosecco DOC was created which covers a vast area spanning two regions, nine provinces, and 556 townships. It is geographically located north of Venice in parts of Veneto and Friuli. At the same time the historical birthplaces of Prosecco, Conegliano Valdobbiadene and Colli Asolani were granted DOCG status. ConVal is a region of steep hillsides located between the villages of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene. The Colli Asolani is a hilly area of northern central Veneto where a neatly defined ridge passes from northeast to southwest between the towns of Cornuda and Asolo. Every DOCG wine is subject to official tasting procedures. To prevent counterfeiting, the bottles have a numbered government seal across the neck.  And finally, the name of the primary grape variety used in making Prosecco wine was changed from Prosecco to Glera - the grape's historical synonym.

The word Prosecco is most likely Slovenian in origin "derived from prosek, a dialectic term for 'path cut through the woods'". In Croatia a sweet passito wine called Prošek has been made for thousands of years - although the EU has now banned that usage. I guess it's name is too similar to the subject of this post which was named after the village Prosecco located near Trieste. The first known mention of Prosecco occurred in 1593 when an English traveler named Fynes Moryson wrote "[In] Histria (Trieste) proper grows the wine Pucinum, now called Prosecho, much celebrated by Pliny". Pucinum refers an ancient wine drunk by the Romans.

The modern history of Prosecco began in 1876 when enologist Giovanni Battista Cerletti founded the Scuola Enologico in Conegliano. However the wine's popularity accelerated with improved production techniques for secondary fermentation starting with Federico Martinotti patenting a method using large pressurized temperature-controlled receptacles. And Eugène Charmat's adoption of the autoclave in secondary fermentation soon followed. Post WWII this autoclave became "widely adopted throughout the area of Conegliano Valdobbiadene and the modern sparkling wine industry was born". Over time this historical region lost focus as more producers outside the region began producing Prosecco sparkling wine. Thus the 2009 reforms.

Today the Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG comprises 15 hillside towns with thousands of small growers supplying 183 wineries. The Dolomite Mountains protect the area on the north while the Piave River valley and a flat plain to the Adriatic Sea bring sea breezes and a semi-marine climate.  The vines are planted on south facing sloops and receive abundant rain which drains quickly through the loose soil or dry from the maritime breezes. 

Wine-searcher.com notes that "the Colli Asolani (the hilly area of northern central Veneto in which Asolo Prosecco is made) run in a neatly defined ridge from northeast to southwest between the towns of Cornuda and Asolo itself. Along this 8-kilometer (5-mile) spine, the hills undulate gently, their peaks rising to a maximum of about 450 meters (1500ft). The finest vineyard sites lie on the southern side of the hills, on sunny south-facing slopes, whose gentle gradient and loose soils offer excellent drainage. They are interspersed with orchards, vegetable crops and the wooded areas that reach up in finger-like valleys to the ridge summit.". 

There are three styles of wine made in the two DOCGs: Spumante (95% of production), Frizzante, and Tranquillo (Still). And there are three categories of residual sugar: Dry (17-32 grams of residual sugar), Extra-Dry (12-17 grams), and Brut (0-12 grams). A fourth category, Extra Brut, was just adopted and will incorporate wines from 0-6 grams.

Other requirements include that the grapes in a Prosecco wine must be at least 85% Glera with the remaining 15% from other authorized grape varieties. Secondary fermentation can be achieved via the autoclave method or in the bottle ("Rifermentato in Bottiglia"). And finally labeling. Superiore refers to only Spumante wines made within the two DOCGs. Millesimato indicates a wine made from a single vintage (85% minimum). And Rive indicates a Prosecco Superiore made entirely of grapes from one of the designated Rive (villages).

As part of our $12.99 Challenge for the Effervescence Unleashed campaign, we stumbled upon this Villa Antica Asolo Prosecco Superiore DOCG for $8.99. From what we've learned the Glera grapes were grown in north central Veneto in the Asolo DOCG and the extra-dry designation means that there is 12-17 grams residual sugar. It comes across off-dry with tight bubbles with some almond mixed with creamy lemons. A nice value for a DOCG Prosecco. 

Pair with Will There By Wine, a novel written by Whitney Cubbison and featured during the BevFluence book series held at the Chicago Speakeasy. 

The 2025 Maryland Apple Blossom Cider & Mead Festival

This past Saturday April 12th, I attended the Maryland Apple Blossom Cider & Mead Festival held at Linganore Winecellars.  Please pay attention to the Mead in that title as there were many expressions available. There were also several whiskies available to sample courtesy of Pathfinder Farm Distillery. Plus dozens of ciders. Apologizes to Silver Wheel Cellars for not traying their meads and ciders because there was a persistent line in front of this producer.

Starting with the meads we found a familiar options with Loew Vineyards and their assortment of cysers and pyments. Cysers are meads made with apple cider, whereas pyments (a subset of melomels - mead made with fruit) are meads made with grapes. My favorite was the Abba a blend of  Polish style mead that was barrel aged for 18 months and a Vidal Blanc pyment that was barrel aged for 11 months. The Mechel is the cyser - a pleasant dry blend of local apple cider, wildflower and clover honey.  I have a bottle of Honey & Grape (a semi-sweet pyment blend of Vidal Blanc, local clover and wildflower honey) cellaring for another year or two investigating if meads change over time. 

Clear Skies Meadery's urban location entices it to create meads with multiple flavor profiles to encapsulate a cocktail culture. This starts with their flagship dry cider, Friending Fenrir, made from Orange Blossom honey. This base is then translated into multiple melomel expressions like the Twisted Oliver (blackberries) and Hades' Trick (pomegranate). They also produce Hydromel or "session" meads such as the Mojave Rose or Guava Mama. They also poured a popular cyser in the Adam's Fall (apple pie). I definitely preferred the Friending Fenrir plus their Fenrir's Reserve aged in oaken stout barrels.

At the Pathfinder Farm Distillery table I learned about their portfolio based upon Bloody Butcher Red Corn -- an heirloom variety of corn that has been grown in Appalachia since at least the mid-1800s. The corn is the base for the surprisingly smooth (at 100 proof) Bloody Butcher 100% Red Corn Whiskey. They then saturate this moonshine into a plethora of fruits with an Apple Pie, Blueberry, and Orange Cranberry expressions. They also produce two aged whiskies starting with the Daily Driver Whiskey with a mash bill of 15% malted barley and 85% Bloody Butcher non-GMO red corn. Then there's the Bloody Butcher Bourbon made from 100% red corn.  A very unique whiskey to add to the collection.

Now to the ciders. 

Willow Oaks Craft Cider is based in a 38-year-old family farm and orchard located in the Middletown Valley at the foothills of the Catoctin Mountain. They were the first organic orchard on the East Coast and their farmhouse styles ciders date back to the cider preferences of some of America's Founding Fathers. The Gloaming, a delicious blend of organic apples and organic black currants, is a favorite - tart for sure, but also dry, fruity, and refreshing. They also offer the Integritas RGB series - ciders aged in rye, bourbon, or gin barrels. The Bourbon offers plenty of vanilla and creaminess. 

Doc Waters Cidery produces one of our favorite Maryland pomme and perry products, the Lady Kay Perry. Although they weren't pouring this perry at the festival, there will be plenty available in the tasting room very soon. On a sour note, last week's freeze most likely destroyed their pear crop for 2025. The challenges of farming. I did savor their flagship Orchard Blend Carbonated Cider. This is a consistent crowd pleaser. 

Brothers Ridge Cider is located practically due north of Linganore and poured their core set of expressions: Pippin, Wildling, and Sapling plus a barrel aged Granny Smith (aged for 6 months in Sagamore Rye Whiskey barrels) -- all fermented naturally. I'm always surprised how well the Granny Smith works in cider apples - particularly when pairing with spicy foods. I had also assumed that the Pippin was a single varietal but it is a blend with plenty of complexity for a dry cider. The off-dry Wildling was also very nice - a touch of sweetness to balance the tartness and acidity. 

The Proper Dry from Two Story Chimney Ciderworks is one of my favorite English-Style ciders and I love the Over the Falls Barrel Aged Cider as well. Unfortunately these weren't available at the festival where they were pouring the semi-sweet Crabtree and the dry Cherry Cider. I only tried the later and savored the dry tartness while waiting for my Peruvian Chicken from the Maytas food truck.  Plan a visit to the ciderworks to try their entire portfolio as well as the gluten-free beers from co-located Silly Yak Beer Company.

Pub Dog operates three brewpubs in Maryland and unbeknownst to me they also offer a couple ciders at each location. I went with the Pub Dog Hard Cider and this is a refreshing cider leaning on the sweeter side 

I finally get to our host, Red Shedman Farm Brewery, which tragically burned to the ground last September. They have been operating steps away at Linganore Winecellars in temporary housing. I've always enjoyed their beer portfolio over the cider because they do lean very heavily on the sweet scale. That being said the Classic Apple Sweet Hard Cider is well made and proportioned. I think adding some dry Vermouth would click. Or wash down with the Cool Kidz Kolsch.

Grape Spotlight: Prieto Picudo from D.O. León & I.G.P. Castilla y León

Castilla y León is located in northwestern Spain between Galicia & Portugal and Rioja and is that country's largest wine-producing region -- encompassing 6% of Spain's total production. It is also the 4th largest Spanish grape growing region and home to over 500 wineries. The region contains 14 Designations of Origin (D.O.), four Protected Designations of Origin, and the Vino de la Terra de Castilla y León Protected Geographical Indication (I.G.P.). Castilla y León came into administrative existence in 1983, when the two historical provinces of León and Castilla la Vieja were unified.

According to wine-searcher.com, "Castilla y León's rich cultural history dates back more than two thousand years, as evidenced by its six Unesco world heritage sites. These include the medieval city walls of Avila, the Roman Aqueduct in Segovia, and Atapuerca, an archaeological site rich in Bronze Age and Stone Age artifacts. It may be that wine production in the region pre-dates even the Roman occupation, which began in the 1st Century BC.

In terms of climate, Castilla y León has a remarkably strong continental feel, given how close it comes to the Atlantic Ocean. Hot, dry summers here are followed by sharp, cold winters, when temperatures regularly drop well below freezing. Diurnal temperature shifts are equally pronounced, and play a vital part in the local wine styles. Cool nights refresh the vineyards after long, hot days. The area is completely shielded from the  maritime influence of the Bay of Biscay by the Cordillera Cantábrica mountain range. On the other side of these mountains lie the Asturias, Cantabria and Pais Vasco regions. Their cool, fresh climates and fertile hills are in stark contrast to the warm, dry tablelands of Castilla y León.

Wedged between the Cordillera Cantábrica and the Sistema Central mountains, the region occupies a vast plateau about 200km (125 miles) across and between 700 and 1000 meters (2,300ft - 3,300ft) above sea level. Given this location and the low rainfall, soils here are typically thin and poor. They do become richer in minerals and clays, however, near the region's rivers, of which there are many.

León (known until 2019 as Tierra de León) is a comparatively new D.O .wine region in northwestern Spain. The D.O. title covers over 3,000 square kilometers of gently undulating, fertile plateau just south of the eponymous city of León, below the Asturian mountains that line the northern border of the Castilla y León province."

Prieto Picudo Cluster

Red wines rule in Castilla y León and the Tempranillo grape variety is unquestionably the king.  Yet Prieto Picudo is a red grape variety primarily grown in D.O. León, In fact, this grape accounts for nearly 70 percent of all plantings in the León, which represents the transition between the hot, continent vineyards of Castile and the cool, maritime climates of north and western Spain. As such Prieto Picudo vines are grown in both modern, trellised format, as well as the low, sprawling bush vines "en vase" as found with Tempranillo in Toro and Tierra del Vino de Zamora around 100km (60 miles) to the south.

The grape is known for its tight clusters and oval-shaped berries that taper at the end, giving it its name, which translates to "dark beaked cluster". This grape produces deeply colored red wines with a clean acidity and high levels of sugar and tannin, giving the wines a unique character and taste.  Prieto Picudo wines often exhibit flavors of redcurrant, blackberry, and licorice, and may have mineral notes, as well as vanilla and toast where oak has been used in the winemaking process.

At a recent Castilla y León Roadshow event, I was able to sample two D.O. León Prieto Picudo wines from Bodegas Belote and three I.G.P. Castilla y León from Leyenda Del Páramo. 

Bodegas Belote's goal is to restore rural heritage and preserve cultural memory which includes restoring winemaking in underground cellars with minimal intervention.  According to the winery, "Caves are an inherent part of traditional architecture in Roales de Campos. Wineries dug in the slopes with a small slope where for more than 500 years the wines were made in a stable environment and at temperature constant throughout the year". The Belote Timba D.O. León 2020 Red (100% Prieto Picudo) was crafted from vines planted between 2002 and 2006 in clay loam soil at 900 meters (2,953 ft.) above sea level. They used natural fermentation in concrete tanks and then blend wine aging three months in French oak barrels (500 liters) with wine aging three months in amphora. The Belote Prieto Picudo D.O. León 2019 Red is derived from the same vineyard and starts with natural fermentation but is aged 16 months in French oak barrels (500 liters). Not unexpectedly, this wine has a greater mouthfeel and more tannic structure, but both have delicious blackberry fruit and an almost cream soda character. 

Leyenda del Páramo was launched in 2010 to focus specifically on Prieto Picudo and a future Grape Spotlight topic, Albarin. One of the founding partners, Pedro González Mittelbrunn, is a defender of the Prieto Picudo within the appellation of origin. The Paramo region is located in southern León and a pertinent feature is the cave system and underground cellars mentioned above. "Inside these caves, with the low temperatures of the subsoil, an ideal micro-climate is formed for the production of the famous Prieto Picudo wines."  Their vineyards are located in a landscape called "El Páramo", located in the northern section of the Duero river basin and, like Belote, at 900 meters. They are flat, poor soils with a large amount of boulders, old fluvial terraces of the Esla and Bernesga rivers.  

At the Roadshow, I started with the Flor del Páramo I.G.P. Castilla y León 2023 Red -- 100% Prieto Picudo and a pure expression of the fruit. No oak, just juicy fruit. This is their best international seller and I can see why. Easy drinking and maybe serve slightly chilled. Second, was the El Aprendiz I.G.P. Castilla y León 2021 Red -- 100% Prieto Picudo aged for a minimum of 6 months in fourth and fifth use American and French oak barrels.  Plenty of approachable tannins and abundant acidity with dark cherries throughout. I concluded with the El Médico I.G.P. Castilla y León 2016 Red is made from 100% Prieto Picudo grapes from vineyards over 60 years old. It is aged for a minimum of nine months in French (75%) and American (25%) oak barrels. Almost a decade old and as fresh as a more recent vintage with lively acidity and velvety fruit. 

Cheers.

EWE25: Solving a Grape’s Identity: Using DNA or Ampelography? Norton or Cynthiana

As Eastern viticulture reemerged after Prohibition in the late 1960s, Norton and Cynthiana were mixed in vineyards and officially deemed as synonymous. -- Lucie Morton

With the return of the Norton and Cynthiana grapes post-prohibition in Missouri, Virginia, Arkansas (courtesy of Stone Hill Winery in Missouri, Horton Vineyards in Virginia, and Post Familie Vineyards in Arkansas) the common perception was that the two grapes were either clones or synonyms. Modern genetic data based on single nucleotide polymorphisms (SNP’s) could not distinguish Norton from Cynthiana as a phylogenetic tree constructed based on 1.2 million SNP’s could not differentiate Norton from Cynthiana.  

Yet, independent viticulturist Lucie Morton strongly disagrees that they are the same cultivar and by using Ampelography -- the study of a grape in terms of its historical record and physical characteristics in terms of leaf, cluster, berry and seed shape -- she asserts that the two grape varieties are completely different cultivars. At the 2025 Eastern Winery Exposition she presented this hypothesis through an analysis she conducted with Dean Volenberg (viticulture and winery operations specialist at the University of Missouri) and Diego Berrios Galaz - winemaker at Virginia's Casanel Vineyards. The results are also available in the March 2025 edition of Wine Business Monthly.  I sure wish this presentation or the companion article were available before my Norton seminar at the February BevFluence Chicago Speakeasy. The rest of this post merges information from the presentation and the Grape Sleuthing Through History WBM article. 

The Norton grape was born in the vineyard of Dr. Daniel Norton around 1820 when he tried to pollinate the Bland grape with Pinot Meunier. Instead a free-living V. aestivalis replaced the  Burgundian grape as the pollinator. Since the Bland and the V. aestivalis gapes had some labrusca and vinifera in their DNA, the Norton grape is comprised of various percentages of V. labrusca, V. vinifera, and V. aestivalis. 

Cynthiana was long thought to have originated in Arkansas, but Morton researched historical records that pinpoint the grapes origination in Red River, Ohio in the 1840s. At that time, Ohio was the leading grape growing region in the United States. The famed Prince Nursery in Flushing Long Island listed a variety called Red River in 1844 and in its 1858 catalogue changed the name to Cynthiana (Syn Red River). The Arkansas wine industry did not really take off until the 1870s. (Norton had been included in the Prince Nursery catalogue since 1822). 

In Missouri, George Hussmann (considered a father of the Missouri wine industry) received cuttings of both Norton and Cynthiana and in 1859 wrote, "The Cynthiana (Red River) originated in Ohio; in appearance it is very much like the former (Norton); makes, however a wine of a lighter color..."  And "U.P. Hedrick opined in The Grapes of New York (1908) that Norton and Cynthiana must be considered as distinct varieties." Thus, up until prohibition they were considered two separate grape varieties". 

After Prohibition, both Norton and Cynthiana survived thanks to a single vineyard outside of Hermann, Missouri. While searching to bring Norton back to Stone Hill Winery, Jim Held heard of the Rauch Vineyard which had been planted with Norton before the Civil War.  While visiting this vineyard a couple years ago and using  ampelographic methodology, Morton and Volenberg determined that the vines were a mixture of both Norton and Cynthiana. Morton has also used this approach to determine that the apparent Norton grown at Virginia's Burnley Vineyards is actually Cynthiana.  Detailed records showed that they had purchased the vines from Post Familie Vineyards in Arkansas. Morton repeated this exercise at Casanel Vineyards and with their team designated rows of both Norton and Cynthiana - which the winery had assumed was only Norton. And the Norton vines at both Horton Vineyards and Chrysalis Vineyards contains a mix of the Cynthiana vines that were found in the source vines from Horton via Hermann, Missouri. 

What are the ampelographic differences between Norton and Cynthiana?  The Norton leaf can resemble a "bat wing" through its lateral lobes and is longer than wider, thinner leaf veins, with triangular teeth. The Cynthiana leaf resembles a "spade-bit" through its lateral lobes and is wider than long, thicker leaf veins and round-based arches with tips for teeth. Its clusters contain larger and longer berries than Norton's and its smaller greener seeds cling to the pulp. Whereas with Norton, the seeds are larger and redder and do not cling to the pulp. See the companion image, but the last notable difference is that the dormant buds for Cynthiana are little triangles pointed to conical, whereas for Norton, they have a rounder base often compressed, obtuse to conical. See images below.